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Archery

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I love archery.

I would recommend going to an archery shop that will size a bow to you. Also don't buy a top of the line bow. Maybe find a used one that is in great shape. You can find great deals on bows, just be careful and don't buy one that is beat up.

Archery is a blast.
 
I taught myself everything about archery and how to setup and tune a bow with a little help from books. It started out as another opportunity to spend more time in the woods. I even got my Son introduced to it. Spent many years in a tree stand bowhunting, watching wildlife, and enjoying the outdoors. Had to give it up once I had shoulder surgery to repair torn rotator cuffs on both of my shoulders that I injured while on active duty.
 
Oh...this is my area here. I taught archery at a summer camp from age 10 to age 17, and was a camper-shooter starting at age 7.

First rule of archery: NEVER dry-fire a bow. Ever. Just don't.

When you fire an arrow, the arrow absorbs vibrations from the bow and string. If you dry fire, those vibrations get absorbed by the bow and start causing fractures and cracks.

Terminology:
Recurve - a typically-wooden bow that bends/flexes when you draw the string back to fire
Compound - a bow with pulleys on it, typically higher-powered than a recurve, and adjustable for power
Draw weight - measured in pounds, it is the quantity of power needed to pull the string back to fire (and thus, the amount of power that goes into the arrow when you release)
Let-off - a percentage of draw weight that is 'released' when you draw a compound bow to full draw. It is accomplished through use of elliptical pulleys. For example if you have a 100# draw with a 60% let-off, you are pulling 100# to draw the bow, but once you get to full draw you are only holding 40# of weight.
Left-hand - you draw the string with your left hand, hold the bow with your right
Right-hand - you draw with your right, hold with your left.
Draw length - how far you will be pulling the string. Hold your bow arm out straight, in line with your shoulders (NOT out in front of you - more on that when we get to stance). Put your draw hand to your cheek. Measure the distance between them. That is your draw length. Arrows should be between 2 and 4 inches longer than that.

If you are target shooting, get target tips. They look like FMJ bullets. No broadheads required. Aluminum arrows are plentiful, and have screw-in tips so you can ultimately use the same arrow for target as for hunting simply by swapping heads. They are measured in grains, just like bullets.

Arrows have tips/heads; shafts; fletchings (NOT feathers); and nocks. The nock is the slot you clip onto the string. Compound bows have a ferrule on the string to mark where you nock the arrow, so it shoots straight (vertically). Arrows have three fletchings - always nock the arrow so the odd fletching (generally a different color than the other two) is pointed AWAY from the body of the bow. Nock it with that fletching against the bow, and it will make the arrow turn as that fletching drags across the bow on its way downrange.

You can get triggers for your draw hand. If you're soft. I recommend either a tab, or a glove. You will get calluses.

Start without any accessories. There are sights out there. There are triggers. There are all sorts of "aids". Bag 'em all. Learn the basics. I still don't use sights. I still don't use a trigger. Even after not shooting regularly for over a decade, I can grab my compound and plug a watermelon at 50 yards first shot - because my muscles know where everything is supposed to go. In the day? I could put six into a softball at 50.

Stance - bow hand faces the target. Turn sideways to the target. Draw a line from your rear heel, to your front toe, to the target (you're on a slight angle, not full-sideways, but don't face the target). Feet a shoulders width apart. Don't twist at the waist if you need to adjust windage - shift your feet. Keep a solid trunk. Plant your front toe, pivot your rear foot if you need to windage-adjust. Use the same arm position every time. Draw to the same point on your cheek every time. If you need to elevation-adjust, change your cheek draw point - need to shoot higher? Move your finger down your cheek towards your jaw. Need to shoot lower? Move your draw towards your eye. Increments make a big difference on target. Keep your front/bow arm in the same position every time - straight out. Lock your structure for holding the bow; adjust with your "mobile" draw-arm and with your feet.

You will be tempted to curl your bow hand backwards, to let the bow pressure "lock" into the joint between your thumb and forefinger. Don't do that. That allows the bow to move "back" behind your arm...and you will fillet your forearm skin with the bowstring when you release (they make leather pads you can wear there, just to be safe while you're getting used to the mechanics of the whole thing). Keep your hand oriented to your arm more like a "punch", than a "talk to the hand", position.

Keep the grass cut SHORT. Shoot barefoot if possible...so you can find arrows after you miss the target. They burrow, and they'll travel further than you'll ever expect. Find 'em by feel, with bare feet.

Definitely find a local archery shop and get sized. Build some rapport with them. It's a lost art and a TON of fun, and a close-knit group. You'll make as many friends there as you can in the firearm community.
 
Oh...this is my area here. I taught archery at a summer camp from age 10 to age 17, and was a camper-shooter starting at age 7.

First rule of archery: NEVER dry-fire a bow. Ever. Just don't.

When you fire an arrow, the arrow absorbs vibrations from the bow and string. If you dry fire, those vibrations get absorbed by the bow and start causing fractures and cracks.

Terminology:
Recurve - a typically-wooden bow that bends/flexes when you draw the string back to fire
Compound - a bow with pulleys on it, typically higher-powered than a recurve, and adjustable for power
Draw weight - measured in pounds, it is the quantity of power needed to pull the string back to fire (and thus, the amount of power that goes into the arrow when you release)
Let-off - a percentage of draw weight that is 'released' when you draw a compound bow to full draw. It is accomplished through use of elliptical pulleys. For example if you have a 100# draw with a 60% let-off, you are pulling 100# to draw the bow, but once you get to full draw you are only holding 40# of weight.
Left-hand - you draw the string with your left hand, hold the bow with your right
Right-hand - you draw with your right, hold with your left.
Draw length - how far you will be pulling the string. Hold your bow arm out straight, in line with your shoulders (NOT out in front of you - more on that when we get to stance). Put your draw hand to your cheek. Measure the distance between them. That is your draw length. Arrows should be between 2 and 4 inches longer than that.

If you are target shooting, get target tips. They look like FMJ bullets. No broadheads required. Aluminum arrows are plentiful, and have screw-in tips so you can ultimately use the same arrow for target as for hunting simply by swapping heads. They are measured in grains, just like bullets.

Arrows have tips/heads; shafts; fletchings (NOT feathers); and nocks. The nock is the slot you clip onto the string. Compound bows have a ferrule on the string to mark where you nock the arrow, so it shoots straight (vertically). Arrows have three fletchings - always nock the arrow so the odd fletching (generally a different color than the other two) is pointed AWAY from the body of the bow. Nock it with that fletching against the bow, and it will make the arrow turn as that fletching drags across the bow on its way downrange.

You can get triggers for your draw hand. If you're soft. I recommend either a tab, or a glove. You will get calluses.

Start without any accessories. There are sights out there. There are triggers. There are all sorts of "aids". Bag 'em all. Learn the basics. I still don't use sights. I still don't use a trigger. Even after not shooting regularly for over a decade, I can grab my compound and plug a watermelon at 50 yards first shot - because my muscles know where everything is supposed to go. In the day? I could put six into a softball at 50.

Stance - bow hand faces the target. Turn sideways to the target. Draw a line from your rear heel, to your front toe, to the target (you're on a slight angle, not full-sideways, but don't face the target). Feet a shoulders width apart. Don't twist at the waist if you need to adjust windage - shift your feet. Keep a solid trunk. Plant your front toe, pivot your rear foot if you need to windage-adjust. Use the same arm position every time. Draw to the same point on your cheek every time. If you need to elevation-adjust, change your cheek draw point - need to shoot higher? Move your finger down your cheek towards your jaw. Need to shoot lower? Move your draw towards your eye. Increments make a big difference on target. Keep your front/bow arm in the same position every time - straight out. Lock your structure for holding the bow; adjust with your "mobile" draw-arm and with your feet.

You will be tempted to curl your bow hand backwards, to let the bow pressure "lock" into the joint between your thumb and forefinger. Don't do that. That allows the bow to move "back" behind your arm...and you will fillet your forearm skin with the bowstring when you release (they make leather pads you can wear there, just to be safe while you're getting used to the mechanics of the whole thing). Keep your hand oriented to your arm more like a "punch", than a "talk to the hand", position.

Keep the grass cut SHORT. Shoot barefoot if possible...so you can find arrows after you miss the target. They burrow, and they'll travel further than you'll ever expect. Find 'em by feel, with bare feet.

Definitely find a local archery shop and get sized. Build some rapport with them. It's a lost art and a TON of fun, and a close-knit group. You'll make as many friends there as you can in the firearm community.
^ this is fantastic information. Great job!
 
Oh...this is my area here. I taught archery at a summer camp from age 10 to age 17, and was a camper-shooter starting at age 7.

First rule of archery: NEVER dry-fire a bow. Ever. Just don't.

When you fire an arrow, the arrow absorbs vibrations from the bow and string. If you dry fire, those vibrations get absorbed by the bow and start causing fractures and cracks.

Terminology:
Recurve - a typically-wooden bow that bends/flexes when you draw the string back to fire
Compound - a bow with pulleys on it, typically higher-powered than a recurve, and adjustable for power
Draw weight - measured in pounds, it is the quantity of power needed to pull the string back to fire (and thus, the amount of power that goes into the arrow when you release)
Let-off - a percentage of draw weight that is 'released' when you draw a compound bow to full draw. It is accomplished through use of elliptical pulleys. For example if you have a 100# draw with a 60% let-off, you are pulling 100# to draw the bow, but once you get to full draw you are only holding 40# of weight.
Left-hand - you draw the string with your left hand, hold the bow with your right
Right-hand - you draw with your right, hold with your left.
Draw length - how far you will be pulling the string. Hold your bow arm out straight, in line with your shoulders (NOT out in front of you - more on that when we get to stance). Put your draw hand to your cheek. Measure the distance between them. That is your draw length. Arrows should be between 2 and 4 inches longer than that.

If you are target shooting, get target tips. They look like FMJ bullets. No broadheads required. Aluminum arrows are plentiful, and have screw-in tips so you can ultimately use the same arrow for target as for hunting simply by swapping heads. They are measured in grains, just like bullets.

Arrows have tips/heads; shafts; fletchings (NOT feathers); and nocks. The nock is the slot you clip onto the string. Compound bows have a ferrule on the string to mark where you nock the arrow, so it shoots straight (vertically). Arrows have three fletchings - always nock the arrow so the odd fletching (generally a different color than the other two) is pointed AWAY from the body of the bow. Nock it with that fletching against the bow, and it will make the arrow turn as that fletching drags across the bow on its way downrange.

You can get triggers for your draw hand. If you're soft. I recommend either a tab, or a glove. You will get calluses.

Start without any accessories. There are sights out there. There are triggers. There are all sorts of "aids". Bag 'em all. Learn the basics. I still don't use sights. I still don't use a trigger. Even after not shooting regularly for over a decade, I can grab my compound and plug a watermelon at 50 yards first shot - because my muscles know where everything is supposed to go. In the day? I could put six into a softball at 50.

Stance - bow hand faces the target. Turn sideways to the target. Draw a line from your rear heel, to your front toe, to the target (you're on a slight angle, not full-sideways, but don't face the target). Feet a shoulders width apart. Don't twist at the waist if you need to adjust windage - shift your feet. Keep a solid trunk. Plant your front toe, pivot your rear foot if you need to windage-adjust. Use the same arm position every time. Draw to the same point on your cheek every time. If you need to elevation-adjust, change your cheek draw point - need to shoot higher? Move your finger down your cheek towards your jaw. Need to shoot lower? Move your draw towards your eye. Increments make a big difference on target. Keep your front/bow arm in the same position every time - straight out. Lock your structure for holding the bow; adjust with your "mobile" draw-arm and with your feet.

You will be tempted to curl your bow hand backwards, to let the bow pressure "lock" into the joint between your thumb and forefinger. Don't do that. That allows the bow to move "back" behind your arm...and you will fillet your forearm skin with the bowstring when you release (they make leather pads you can wear there, just to be safe while you're getting used to the mechanics of the whole thing). Keep your hand oriented to your arm more like a "punch", than a "talk to the hand", position.

Keep the grass cut SHORT. Shoot barefoot if possible...so you can find arrows after you miss the target. They burrow, and they'll travel further than you'll ever expect. Find 'em by feel, with bare feet.

Definitely find a local archery shop and get sized. Build some rapport with them. It's a lost art and a TON of fun, and a close-knit group. You'll make as many friends there as you can in the firearm community.
Wow, that was way more information than I thought I'd get! Thank you!
 
Eh. I love shooting, but after a couple shoulder surgeries and neck injuries...the "hurt" tends to outweigh the "enjoy" faster than it used to. I used to be able to put 500 arrows downrange, every day, six days a week, when I was teaching. Now, my old bones call it quits after a few dozen.

Part of what I loved about it, though, was the zen. Me. Arrow. Target. Period. Draw, release, repeat. No noise, no "gear" (eyes/ears like firearms), just a tab or glove (if that - most times I shot bare-handed), a pair of shorts, and grass between my bare toes.

I miss it.

A lot.
 
I did all my qualifications with a recurve, and I forced my kids to, as well.

Learn the basics. THEN get the sexy, hi-tech tools.

I was CAA American Archer certified, left AND right handed, by 13. One summer I had poison oak so bad, I could not get my fingers close together at all. The closest I could get made it look like I was putting up the "FIVE" gesture.

I got eight certifications that summer...and they gave me my own bow, so nobody else caught my mung.
 
Eh. I love shooting, but after a couple shoulder surgeries and neck injuries...the "hurt" tends to outweigh the "enjoy" faster than it used to. I used to be able to put 500 arrows downrange, every day, six days a week, when I was teaching. Now, my old bones call it quits after a few dozen.

Part of what I loved about it, though, was the zen. Me. Arrow. Target. Period. Draw, release, repeat. No noise, no "gear" (eyes/ears like firearms), just a tab or glove (if that - most times I shot bare-handed), a pair of shorts, and grass between my bare toes.

I miss it.

A lot.
I missed it also.Could not pull back my 40 pound bow ,got a 25pounder .My shoulders were happy.
 
Good for you, benstt. As others have said, archery is a lot of fun!

I started shooting a bow at 7 or 8 years old with a brand spankin' new Bear 25# draw fiberglass bow. I gave it to my grandson a couple years ago and hope he has not lost it. One of my first purchases out of college was a 50# draw Bear recurve. I loved hunting with my Bear recurve. Fred Bear was my mentor, only it was totally through his book. I was going to give the book to my grand son, but so far I have not been able to find it. Fred Bear mostly used a long bow, which does not have the reverse curve in the limbs like a recurve does.

I know very little about compound bows, since they came along kind of late in my archery career. The last time I shot my recurve, my shoulder was so sore the next day that I haven't shot since. It is nice to be able to practice in your backyard, even if you don't live in the country.
 
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