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Learned the hard way.

Jsimon78

Jsimon78

Operator
Well I learned the hard way of optics and what it takes to have it properly done. Personally I’m not a big optic person at all but my S&W M&P M2.0 I added an optic that I do like and it taught me that 10MM doesn’t like when things are not done right. I spent a little fortune to get the screws out, better baseplate, and the correct screws. Lesson learned the hard way (usually the only I learn).
 

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i have 2 2.0 10mm's and haven't lost any optics yet. not even came lose on any of the 7 m/p's i own. well, 1 doesn't have an optic yet. i will say the s/w list ddp's to fit using a certain baseplate..................nope it don't! it looks like a holosun? @Bassbob is our resident expert on them! the issue i had was the optic didn't fit inside the cut......well, more like the baseplate keeping it from doing so. did the optic fit as needed on the plate and rechecked on the slide before mounting? i only ask as the issues i've had with plate to optic to slide fit.
 
I was a late adopter and have one gun with a RD. I made my selection based on a direct fit of the dot on a firearm without a plate.
If I were king, optic cuts would be standard, all optics would fit the standard, batteries would be accessible without removing the optic and standard sights would co-witness.
 
10mmLife said:
The proper way to install optics is to use an inch lbs driver. A lot of RDS are spec'ed to be torqued around 15 in lbs. Torqueing the screws more than that can break or strip them.
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the thing too is that many gunsmithing tools can be bought cheaper than auto/truck mechanics tools.

meaning, a "small investing" in some smithing tools is worth that menial cost.

unlike the nearly $400 i spent like 50 years ago for a Snap-On "clicking" torque wrench, over the sliding pointer scale.
 
I always prefer an optic that mounts directly to the slide if possible. If the mounting screws come with thread locker on them I’ll leave it on there, otherwise I tend to not use it. Clean the screws and threads with brake clean or acetone, let them dry then torque to manufacturer specs using a torque driver. I’ve never had a problem doing it this way but that doesn’t mean you won’t.
 
10mmLife said:
The proper way to install optics is to use an inch lbs driver. A lot of RDS are spec'ed to be torqued around 15 in lbs. Torqueing the screws more than that can break or strip them.
Click to expand...
Guess 15 inch pounds is pretty much the standard for mounting optics. Recently mounted two Sig optics on Sig pistols operators manuals suggested 28 inch pounds for pro models & 24 inch pounds for the compact model.
 
rcurtner said:
Guess 15 inch pounds is pretty much the standard for mounting optics. Recently mounted two Sig optics on Sig pistols operators manuals suggested 28 inch pounds for pro models & 24 inch pounds for the compact model.
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It varies but I see 15 to 20 in lbs a lot for smaller optics including flashlights. Scope mount specs usually have a higher torque rating. Its always best to refer to the optics manual.
 
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