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Lyman (or other brand) dehydrators

Old_Me

SAINT
ok, so talking with the mom/pop owner, he has said he at times uses Iosso to clean his brass.

so, i bought a gallon of the chemical only, as i have netting, and pails here.

now however, i let the brass "air dry", but not for long, as they get tarnished(??) if they sit for long.

i then toss them into the polish machine.

so, i'm "thinking" maybe to speed up the drying time, and prevent either tarnish or water spots, dehydration is in order.

he at the store has a rather large dehydrator, i don't need that size.

i think he said it's a food dehydrator.

anyway, anyone here use one, what brand, good results..???

i want at this time to "try out" this process, if i get good results in shorter time, good, if not, oh well......

i "figure" the Iosso, then rinse, then dehydrator, pretty much adds up to the same time as walnut cleaning media time, with the exception that the inside of the brass gets super clean. polishing times are always for me, 1 hour, as is the walnut menia cleaning times

thanks in advance.
 
All that sounds like way to much work to me, when I reloaded I just used corn cob media and a Lyman tumbler, brass doesn’t have to look like shiny new brass to reload, as long as it’s fairly clean
 
If you run walnut for a few hours and it isn't real shiny, throw it out and put new in. Corn cob works, too. I've not used Iosso, some do. I don't remember what car polish I've used, but it comes in an orange bottle, about $10 at Harbor Freight. Since I used it all, I did buy some actual media polish (Lyman I think). Bottom line. Shiny brass is easier to see and pick up at our gravel range, but other than that, you just need to get rid of the grit to make your dies last.
 
I have a Frankford dehydrator I've only used twice, but the brass wasn't the least bit shinny before going into the dehydrator. I used a Lyman wet heated machine that doesn't use any pins or even tumbles. Machine is vibratory and heated only. Most brass is clean in 5 minutes or less. I also didn't use any Lyman cleaning solution, only RCBS (green colored) that does fairly well. After the timer goes off and then the brass is removed and rinsed/washed with warm water (no soap), but usually rinse with room temp 1st and then final rinse with almost hot ( just more than warm without being too hot for hands) water. None have tarnished so far. Still doing some testing.
 
This definitely takes up more time. The inside of the brass gets cleaned out better. I remove the old primer before I put it into the solvent. The dryer does a excellent job.
 

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If you run walnut for a few hours and it isn't real shiny, throw it out and put new in. Corn cob works, too. I've not used Iosso, some do. I don't remember what car polish I've used, but it comes in an orange bottle, about $10 at Harbor Freight. Since I used it all, I did buy some actual media polish (Lyman I think). Bottom line. Shiny brass is easier to see and pick up at our gravel range, but other than that, you just need to get rid of the grit to make your dies last.
yes, i already have walnut media in one vibrating machine, and Lyman corn cob polishing media, in the other.

i just "thought" it was time to try another cleaning method, since the cost of the Iosso isn't that much.

the only thing i did not do, was remove the primers.

and i think you mean.."Nu Finish"..polish?

i do have that here as well....i was using that, before i switched over to the Lyman corn cob.

i also have the Lyman polish. i even have "Brasso" polish, which some say it isn't good on brass shell casing, but here in this "old house", we have many brass fixtures, so it doesn't go to waste.

many things were bought from Midway, with my birthday discounts. (several months ago) so no large amount of money was wasted for this new "experimental cleaning"


i have yet to get to the state owned outdoor range, which would help me find my brass, in the........grass....

been a few fires here of late, i have to check if that state owned range is even open.
 
Yes, it was Nu Finish.
I dry tumble with primers in because I use a progressive press and do not want to complicate and add to the cleaning process. I have not found primer pockets to be a problem, so leaving spent primers in saves time and a step. Dry tumbling does not involve drying, so again, one less step for me.
I get that wet tumbling is the popular thing, but I am not one to quickly adopt new things.
I may get into casting bullets, but in no hurry to do so. I've recovered a lot of lead at the range and being retired with few hobbies, it is a possibility.
 
Yes, it was Nu Finish.
I dry tumble with primers in because I use a progressive press and do not want to complicate and add to the cleaning process. I have not found primer pockets to be a problem, so leaving spent primers in saves time and a step. Dry tumbling does not involve drying, so again, one less step for me.
I get that wet tumbling is the popular thing, but I am not one to quickly adopt new things.
I may get into casting bullets, but in no hurry to do so. I've recovered a lot of lead at the range and being retired with few hobbies, it is a possibility.
yeah, i too have been browsing for casting equipment, but i am also running out of space in my work area.

might be something for me to consider when i sweep up my brass, i start sweeping lead, and just pile that up, in a bucket, "just in case", i do go full bore into casting.
 
Came across this and thought I would post it from American Handgunner magazine

 
Yes, it was Nu Finish.
I dry tumble with primers in because I use a progressive press and do not want to complicate and add to the cleaning process. I have not found primer pockets to be a problem, so leaving spent primers in saves time and a step. Dry tumbling does not involve drying, so again, one less step for me.
I get that wet tumbling is the popular thing, but I am not one to quickly adopt new things.
I may get into casting bullets, but in no hurry to do so. I've recovered a lot of lead at the range and being retired with few hobbies, it is a possibility.
Nu Finish in the orange bottle?
 
This definitely takes up more time. The inside of the brass gets cleaned out better. I remove the old primer before I put it into the solvent. The dryer does a excellent job.
 

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Came across this and thought I would post it from American Handgunner magazine

good article, the one thing i do not do is sort by headstamp, other than over all name branded brass. for instance, if i sweep up other peoples brass along with mine, i tend to "sort" out brands like Aquila, and that goes into my recycling bucket.
 
I do not sort brass. Most new brass I've purchased has been Starline. I've also purchased once fired .38 Special online and buckets of mixed brass after a lost brass match. I generally shoot low powered cowboy loads and it has been used for decades. Splits are occasional, but not excessive. Splits have occurred most often in my Schofield brass I believe due to large chambers. I've also lost more .38 Special recently due to a higher pressure powder I'm using (WSL).
I don't trim brass either. I bought a trimmer years ago because "they" said I needed one. Never used it. I don't want to trim 9 gallons of .38, 6 gallons of .45 Colt, 6 gallons of .45 Schofield, etc. I don't think the pressure in most loads would stretch the length, maybe my .44 Magnum brass or my semi-auto brass, but not from cowboy or plinking loads.
If you want to deprime before cleaning, trim them, separate by headstamp, religiously record number of reloads, etc., go for it.
 
I do not sort brass. Most new brass I've purchased has been Starline. I've also purchased once fired .38 Special online and buckets of mixed brass after a lost brass match. I generally shoot low powered cowboy loads and it has been used for decades. Splits are occasional, but not excessive. Splits have occurred most often in my Schofield brass I believe due to large chambers. I've also lost more .38 Special recently due to a higher pressure powder I'm using (WSL).
I don't trim brass either. I bought a trimmer years ago because "they" said I needed one. Never used it. I don't want to trim 9 gallons of .38, 6 gallons of .45 Colt, 6 gallons of .45 Schofield, etc. I don't think the pressure in most loads would stretch the length, maybe my .44 Magnum brass or my semi-auto brass, but not from cowboy or plinking loads.
If you want to deprime before cleaning, trim them, separate by headstamp, religiously record number of reloads, etc., go for it.
yes, i bought some starline 45 ACP as well, a few months ago. i also buy new ammo, so of course, i reload that as well. but the errant find of some 45's on the floor do get into my sweepings, sand i can "see" they are pretty new looking.

i too bought a case trimmer, a hand held one, "cuz people said you have to trim", but i have yet to remove it from the blister packing. i pretty only deprime on the press when ready to load'em as well.
 
dang, the misspellings in my posting above...........:eek:

another website i belong to, has a forever open editing time....not here though....... :unsure:
 
I use this little gadget to deprime cases. I usually do it while watching Television. I had more time when we was stuck in the house
 

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I use this little gadget to deprime cases. I usually do it while watching Television. I had more time when we was stuck in the house
When I shot benchrest competition many moons ago, I had a similar tool to deprime like the one you got.
yeah, Frankford Arsenal, i got one too, i think one of my first in a collection of reloading tools i bought, to start reloading.
 
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