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New 1911 has rust already?

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SithLordXIII

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I got a gun I've wanted since I was a kid, a 1911. It was the Springfield 1911-A1. It's kind of a dream gun for me. That and a Baretta 92 since I had them as toys as a kid. Within a couple months of getting it there was rust building up on the outside. I am SOO disappointed, nearing heartbroken! I cleaned it when I got it, store it in a low humidity safe and have only shot it 1 time and re-cleaned it.

I cant Express my sadness for a gun I have wanted so long.
 
Not sure if your 1911 was purchased new or used. If new, contact Customer Service. If used, there isn't much you can do. However, for minimal $, you can send it off to be redone. I would very much look at how it's stored and after you handle it, wiping it down. Some people's perspiration, (pH), is worse than others with residual left on guns. (I'm Italian so what I leave behind is a lubricant)! :)
 
Yep.

Most 1911’s don’t have the highly resistant finishes (the RO Elite's being an exception) that most other new design pistols do; they require a little extra care.

That being said, I’ve got a WWI Colt with a finish, while well-worn, is rust-free after 102 years. It gets stored in a Bore-Stor silicon rug in my safe, and wiped down with a Rustprufe cloth a few times a year.

My carry 1911 just has a blued finish, and is also rust free after 10 years. It gets a wipedown when it comes off my hip.

Honestly?

It's operator error to get rust on the finish; you likely aren’t properly wiping it down with enough oil/right oil. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve found Rustprufe cloths & oil to be excellent finish protection.

The good news is, with some diligent oiling/elbow grease, you can get rid of the rust. Just oil often, and rub hard. Brass wool (NOT steel wool!) can also remove the rust—just soak the pad in oil first, and rub gently.

What is the finish on your 1911? Blued? Or Parkerizing/phosphate?
 
I have a Range Officer Operator.
I treat the finish just like I do all my firearms.
I use either Lucas Oil Products or Rem-Oil on all the parts you don't see and after a good clean and oil I put Mothers Mag Polish on the parts you see.
The wax resists finger prints when handling, at least for me it works.
I am sure others will say this is abrasive.
 
For whatever reason, some folks can have a high salt content in their skin oils. When I was in high school, it seemed like I couldn't touch a blued firearm without the metal rusting. Then my Machine Shop teacher let me in on the secret. Although I never had this medically confirmed, it made sense. Working with hydraulic pumps in the Navy, I also noticed admonishments in repair manuals to not handle polished machined parts with bare hands, to minimize rust and corrosion. Over the years, the "Rust Touch" has gone away. I still wipe down any metal I handle or work with out of habit, be it firearms, reloading dies, etc. I keep disposable work gloves at the bench as well.

Regards,
Bill
 
Surface rust is an easy fix, usually. Like stated above, once your done shooting wipe your pistol down with an oily rag. Once stored, even more so depending on climate and where your firearms are stored wipe them down, at the least once a month with an oily rag to prevent it.
 
Wirenut said:
I have a Range Officer Operator.
I treat the finish just like I do all my firearms.
I use either Lucas Oil Products or Rem-Oil on all the parts you don't see and after a good clean and oil I put Mothers Mag Polish on the parts you see.
The wax resists finger prints when handling, at least for me it works.
I am sure others will say this is abrasive.
Click to expand...
I’ve used mothers several times to polish parts on my firearms. It and flitz are great products.
 
As they said - just make sure the last thing you do is wipe with an oil cloth. Then, hold it by the grips only to put it into your storage location.

If you ever doubt your skin oils have salt...go work up a sweat, and taste that. Or, just let it dry on your skin and feel how gritty you get.
 
Another thing that helps is heating the gym before oiling it. This allows a small amount of the oil to be absorbed into the metal. Its not much but enough to keep moisture out of the 'pores' in the metal.

Just use a blow dryer or heat gun and get it warm to the touch. Similar to the Frog Lube instructions.


You wont need the alcohol wipe down just the heating bit*

After switching back to petrol I kept using the heating method and it seems to work well.
 
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SithLordXIII said:
I got a gun I've wanted since I was a kid, a 1911. It was the Springfield 1911-A1. It's kind of a dream gun for me. That and a Baretta 92 since I had them as toys as a kid. Within a couple months of getting it there was rust building up on the outside. I am SOO disappointed, nearing heartbroken! I cleaned it when I got it, store it in a low humidity safe and have only shot it 1 time and re-cleaned it.

I cant Express my sadness for a gun I have wanted so long.
Click to expand...
I had my Springfiled 1911 get covered in moisture in my range bag. I discussed this previous. Put away a hot gun into the zipper padded bag and into the back of my truck. High humidity day.
took gun out of the bag next day and it was covered in moisture.
Something similar may have happened to you on the moisture ?????
 
SithLordXIII said:
I got a gun I've wanted since I was a kid, a 1911. It was the Springfield 1911-A1. It's kind of a dream gun for me. That and a Baretta 92 since I had them as toys as a kid. Within a couple months of getting it there was rust building up on the outside. I am SOO disappointed, nearing heartbroken! I cleaned it when I got it, store it in a low humidity safe and have only shot it 1 time and re-cleaned it.

I cant Express my sadness for a gun I have wanted so long.
Click to expand...
My opinion, just use a good quality gun oil, when you wipe the gun down, don’t put it on to heavy, but enough to get the job done, then if you feel like it a few days later do it again, then see if this issue returns. If you clean the gun with gun scrubber or similar products, this will strip all oil off the gun down to the bare metal, which means the gun has no oil on it, if you do use this product, don't forget to wipe the gun down completely with gun oil.
 
Classified said:
And stay away from froglube. Dont get me wrong it works, but it collects and gums up when you need it to work.
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Aren't you supposed to remove all the froglube after you clean the gun? I'm asking because it's what I heard. I never used it but I regularly use Seal 1 which is allegedly very similar. I only use it to clean the bore and I thoroughly remove it then put a light coat of oil on.
 
Bassbob said:
Aren't you supposed to remove all the froglube after you clean the gun? I'm asking because it's what I heard. I never used it but I regularly use Seal 1 which is allegedly very similar. I only use it to clean the bore and I thoroughly remove it then put a light coat of oil on.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is correct. However, during use it oozes out of the metal lubricating it. This is when it has a tendance to pool in cooler places.its not evident at first as it takes time to build up. Where as oil will just run off, froglube (FL) congeals and begins to attract dust, carbon, and lint. I had this happen on a CC 1911. The fire controls seemed to get a little rough and I had to tear it down and undo all of the FL and relube with oil. Thats when I came up with my 'poor mans robar'(1/3 mix of nickel anti sieze and lube).

Dont get me wrong, its a great product that works. I just dont want to have that potential problem. Just knowing it has those tendancies is enough for me. It only takes one screw up like that to make things permanent.
 
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