Did you purchase it new? Possible it's pin and welded if not loctite? I don't own and SA ar rifles ,so I couldn't say for sure. Look towards the back of the muzzle device at the bottom for a hole(pin hole).Hello Everyone!
I have recently purchased a saint edge pdw and looking to do a full disassembly.
I have noticed that the blast diverter (hate brake?) is pretty stuck on the barrel.
Any recommendations on how to remove?
Thank you! Stay safe!
The PDW may be different. Doesn't look like you can take the handguard off with the barrel attached. I looked at the parts blow up page in the manual on this firearm and it looks like the blast diverter is two parts. Go to the page for the Edge PDW, click on the manual and towards the end of the manual is the parts blow up for the PDW. You'll see there's something called a muzzle brake cone and a muzzle brake shroud. Hard to tell if they come off together or if you have to take the cone off before the shroud. I don't see anything on there regarding a pin for the brake, so I doubt there is one. I also don't think they'd pin or weld the brake on since it's a pistol and there's no need for that. The pin/weld is usually there for a rifle with a less than 16" barrel to make it legally a rifle with the addition of the muzzle device.Per the saint edge customer service, you can. They use a modified 3/8 socket.
Yeah, just add an extension, like the one below, to a socket wrench and the square should fit right in to remove it. At least that’s the way it seems to me.Thank you so much for you help on this.
I am trying to picture this as my smith has the gun right now.
I am placing a 3/8 sized socket wrench socket with an extender (cause the normal square probably wouldnt reach all the way in far enough?) into the diverter square. (NO SOCKET(s) ATTACHED)
pic1
I have a feeling my smith was trying to use a giant ass socket around the outside shroud to remove?
In some cases you have to remove the attachments on the handguard before removing the handguard. This is due in need of clearance over the muzzle device. If not pinned and/or welded(loctite only) needs to be warmed up by a lighter or a heat gun to loosen the thread loc.Thank you so much for you help on this.
I am trying to picture this as my smith has the gun right now.
I am placing a 3/8 sized socket wrench socket with an extender (cause the normal square probably wouldnt reach all the way in far enough?) into the diverter square. (NO SOCKET(s) ATTACHED)
pic1
I have a feeling my smith was trying to use a giant ass socket around the outside shroud to remove?
Seems like it might be pinned/welded?Just called him and spoke to him, he said he tried that, however, could start to see the receiver start to flex, so he didn't want to put any more pressure on it.
He said that he heated it up, tried boiling it in case of rocksett, and soaked over night, and used the inside portion with a 3/8 extender. No luck...
crap =(
Gun is naked, removed everything, just the upper, the handguard and the hate brake. I dont think I can take the hand guard off with out taking the brake off first. Crazy it would be on there so hard. My smith is a big guy. Springfield Armory customer support said that the brake is not pin welded or rocksett, just torqued on.In some cases you have to remove the attachments on the handguard before removing the handguard. This is due in need of clearance over the muzzle device. If not pinned and/or welded(loctite only) needs to be warmed up by a lighter or a heat gun to loosen the thread loc.
Sometimes a little extra tightening will help loosen? I only say that as only used technique on my own firearms.Gun is naked, removed everything, just the upper, the handguard and the hate brake. I dont think I can take the hand guard off with out taking the brake off first. Crazy it would be on there so hard. My smith is a big guy. Springfield Armory customer support said that the brake is not pin welded or rocksett, just torqued on.
Wrong blast diverter. His is for the Edge PDW, That’s different than the one you’re showing. That one is on the Saint Victor pistol.If you have shot your rifle the diverter has gotten hot. It will be a little tough to remove. You need a bev block or something to hold your barrel, a barrel fixture. You need to remove your handguard and on the diverter should be two flat spots. Take some channel locks and put it on those flat spots and take the diverter off. I’m pretty sure SA doesn’t use loctite, some companies use Rockset but not aware of SA doing this.
Mine is different, looks to be based off the hate brake from maxim defense. Thank you very much for your reply!!If you have shot your rifle the diverter has gotten hot. It will be a little tough to remove. You need a bev block or something to hold your barrel, a barrel fixture. You need to remove your handguard and on the diverter should be two flat spots. Take some channel locks and put it on those flat spots and take the diverter off. I’m pretty sure SA doesn’t use loctite, some companies use Rockset but not aware of SA doing this.
Your gun smith should be using a tool like this barrel vise rod so there's no torque on the receiver and all the force goes directly to the barrel or at the very least he should have a barrel vise block.Just called him and spoke to him, he said he tried that, however, could start to see the receiver start to flex, so he didn't want to put any more pressure on it.
He said that he heated it up, tried boiling it in case of rocksett, and soaked over night, and used the inside portion with a 3/8 extender. No luck...
crap =(
Yes brand new btw.Did you purchase it new? Possible it's pin and welded if not loctite? I don't own and SA ar rifles ,so I couldn't say for sure. Look towards the back of the muzzle device at the bottom for a hole(pin hole).
I will confirm, pretty sure he was. He has done a few of my ar barrels before but never asked. Thank you!!Your gun smith should be using a tool like this barrel vise rod so there's no torque on the receiver and all the force goes directly to the barrel or at the very least he should have a barrel vise block.
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