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Plastic shim's for red dot optic?

Kodiak Cowboy

Kodiak Cowboy

Custom
Got my SOCOM CQB with the VortexVenom a few days ago! Already fitted it with foregrip, light, and laser. I'm pretty stoked to take it out tomorrow and dial it in, but can anyone tell me why it comes with two plastic shim's and do I even need them? The Optic mounted just fine without problems. I guess I'll know more about needing to shim the optic or not after I shoot it.
 

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Kodiak Cowboy said:
Got my SOCOM CQB with the VortexVenom a few days ago! Already fitted it with foregrip, light, and laser. I'm pretty stoked to take it out tomorrow and dial it in, but can anyone tell me why it comes with two plastic shim's and do I even need them? The Optic mounted just fine without problems. I guess I'll know more about needing to shim the optic or not after I shoot it.
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Not sure about the plastic shims, although I suspect it has to do with mounting height. If it were a plate/ footprint deal they would be metal with threaded holes. I can tell you that I have a Venom mounted on a handgun and like all RDMS it can be mounted directly to a firearm or mount or on an adaptor plate with no problems. You have it mounted I see. Go shooting brother. If it zeros you're golden.
 
Bassbob said:
Not sure about the plastic shims, although I suspect it has to do with mounting height. If it were a plate/ footprint deal they would be metal with threaded holes. I can tell you that I have a Venom mounted on a handgun and like all RDMS it can be mounted directly to a firearm or mount or on an adaptor plate with no problems. You have it mounted I see. Go shooting brother. If it zeros you're golden.
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Roger that! I intend on dialing it in tomorrow. it's not really a long range platform, so I'm thinking if the red dot can zero out to 100yrds that should be just fine!
 
Since it has a 16.25" barrel and designed for CQB I think I would zero it at 50 yards. I'm not sure about compensating with a .308, but zeroing a 5.56 at 50 puts you only an inch or so high at 100 and back on the bull around 200 yards. Seeing 100 yards clear enough to really dial something in with an unmagnified optic would be difficult for me. You could also figure out where you need to be at 50 yards to be dead on at 100. Or even 25 yards. At least as a starting point.

Full disclosure I do not have this rifle and I have almost no experience with a .308 as far as bullet drop or anything else. There are definitely a few guys around here that do have that rifle though and they probably have better advice for you than I do.
 
Bassbob said:
Since it has a 16.25" barrel and designed for CQB I think I would zero it at 50 yards. I'm not sure about compensating with a .308, but zeroing a 5.56 at 50 puts you only an inch or so high at 100 and back on the bull around 200 yards. Seeing 100 yards clear enough to really dial something in with an unmagnified optic would be difficult for me. You could also figure out where you need to be at 50 yards to be dead on at 100. Or even 25 yards. At least as a starting point.

Full disclosure I do not have this rifle and I have almost no experience with a .308 as far as bullet drop or anything else. There are definitely a few guys around here that do have that rifle though and they probably have better advice for you than I do.
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Roger that. I'm going to start at 25 then go to 50 for final zero and see what it does at 100. I wasn't clear on that I guess. If it zeros fine at 50 it will be in the ten ring at 100 no doubt!
 
uspatriot1960 said:
I’m thinking it may be to waterproof the battery compartment. If the battery is on the bottom of the RDS with no cover, the plastic would keep water from seeping under there. Could be wrong, but that’s the first thing that comes to my mind.
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Nope. The battery on the Venom is not on the bottom. It's on the top and there is an O ring that seals the compartment.
 
uspatriot1960 said:
I’m thinking it may be to waterproof the battery compartment. If the battery is on the bottom of the RDS with no cover, the plastic would keep water from seeping under there. Could be wrong, but that’s the first thing that comes to my mind.
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Did it say anything about them in the manual ??
I know we have a tendancy to just chuck a manual over our shoulder when it involves setting things up like a TV 😜
 
  • Optic Shim is made to fit between the red dot and the mounting plate. Depending on the handgun, some handguns need THIS 1degree shim to give extra range of elevation across a wide range of firearms (such as the 1911). Should you feel any resistance from the mechanism whilst zeroing the elevation please fit the shim between the sight and the mount with the thickest part at the rear.
 
Not sure if this is the same or not, but I will throw it out. When I got my XDm Elite compact it came with the HEX Dragonfly dot, it came with the plate for it plus a plastic type shim, after reading the manual, after you install the plate, you put the shim on then mount the site, this shim according to the manual is to seal the sight from water and moisture. Not sure if your is the same but thought I would mention it.
 
So I dialed it in to zero at 50 today and was ringing a 12 inch gong at 100 consistently with every shot. I Never installed the shim so it obviously doesn't need it. Yes I did look through the manual thurougly both the Springfield and the Vortex manual. No info in either on the shims. The shims however are stamped with the SA crossed cannon logo, so they are from SA not Vortex. Bass Bob pretty much made it clear that the shims are for some types of hand guns or maybe even other rifles and carbines. My carbine obviously doesn't need one because I'm in the ten ring all day long! Thanks for all you guys that got back to me with your opinions and info. Much appreciated! Shoot fun, Shoot safe and shoot straight!🏴‍☠️👍
 
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