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Prodigy Disconnector hanging up slide Dissertation

xdman

Self appointed Chief Armorer
Staff member
So I think there is a combination of problems happening.

You have a lower poundage recoils spring combined with a heavy slide, especially if you add a red dot. With that reported 9 pound spring it has to return all that mass back closed. If you watch videos of people shooting the 5 inch prodigy fast you can actually see the slide cycling. This is cycling at a slower rate than say an XD slide with an 18 pound spring. The slide on the XD cycles so fast it is almost imperceptible to the human eye.

So member’s have suggested a higher pound recoil spring witch in turn cycles the slide faster and slams it home harder. When you get that mass moving faster the slide is forced over the disconnect and does not hang up or slow down so much that it wont feed.

the other part of the equation is the main spring. Being a new pistol all the springs are the strongest they will ever be. The middle leaf of the main spring pushes on the disconnecter and in a production factory gun may not be adjusted at all. There could be just a little too much pressure on the disconnect or a bur that‘s hanging it up. Combined with the slow cycle of the slide is just enough to hang it up. There are a couple things you can do. Adjust the main spring, for instance I like to add pressure on the right leaf and add pressure on the grip safety. I like a more positive feeling on my GS. Then reducing pressure on the trigger bar drops trigger poundage. This is not something you want to do willie nilly and really should know what you are doing.

Now as I said the springs are the heaviest they ever will be out of the box. Simply dry firing and cycling the slide will move the disconnector and if there is a burr, should get rid of it. The top tip of the disconnect will rub on the underside of the slide polishing the bearing areas. The second thing it will do is flex the spring enough to get it to take its set. Meaning the spring will weaken slightly and get to a reduced weight for most of its service life. This sweet spot is where the Prodigy just like any other 1911 likes to be.

Now you can force feed the pistol shooting it and when it hangs up you will run into the example like @SimonRL had where one or two hang ups, but then follow through and keep shooting And then great success. And for my example I had a great success but I did do something to my gun before I ever shot it. I sat in my underwear and dryfired the **** out of my Prodigy while watching tv. Now before you laugh dryfire work is what makes you better with firearms. Dryfiring is way cheaper practice than actually shooting and gets you so comfortable with your firearms that they become second hand nature. I do this practicing reloads as well. The process of cycling the slide and dry firing pre wore all the parts to a point that my first hang up was after throwing my gun in the dirt 3 different times and going aprox 250 rnds. I would ask that users do not make me show ”pics or it didn’t happen”. I would also further venture to guess that most of the “influencers“ being true gun people also dryfire new guns to get to know them to talk about them. So what makes more sense Springfield sent guns that were perfectly tuned or like me the first thing I did was dryfire the **** out of the pistol. just dryfiring a couple hundred times and the pistol feels significantly different from right out of the box….something to keep in mind. This could also explain the widely different experiences that some people were having.

The next thing to ponder is the slide to frame fit with Cerakote. As you shoot the pistol the slide cycles smoother with time. As the Cerakote and metal wears into each other polishing it self. Less resistance in slide cycle can mean better reliably.

It‘s something to think about and if you think that I am full of it, thats fine just google 1911 slide hanging up on disconnect. So there are a couple things you can do for better success
1. change the recoil spring
2. adjust the main spring
3. dryfire and cycle the slide.
Pros and cons
Recoil springs cost around 5-16 dollars
Adjusting the main spring requires knowledge
Dryfire is free

Xdman’s Prodigy and my new Magpul Rigger EDC
F503FB17-07E5-4B79-8B24-BE9DD8938FFF.jpeg


That said what are everyones thoughts. And did you dryfire before shooting and what was the result when you actually fired?
 
IF there is a "bur" causing a hang up that's pretty sad for a $1,500 pistol. Shame on SA! The only thing worse is sending firearms back multiple times that at least should've been fixed the 1st return! I've delt with dealerships (auto) the same way.
 
I think its best to have a wait and see attitude when it comes to new releases. When I first seen the Prodigy I wanted to go out and get one- even though I didn't need a 9mm. I also wanted a 10mm M&P. Glad I didn't purchase that one either as they seem to be having issues. I think the longer time they are out the bugs get fixed on them or at least hope they do. I will wait to see how the Prodigy does 6 months from now.
 
I posted this in another thread, so I'll summarize what I did with my 5" Prodigy.

Racked it a ton out of the box, took it apart, cleaned and lubed. Repeated this and cycled some metal snap caps through it as well the second time, then took it apart, cleaned and lubed again. Snap caps fed perfectly fine, no hang ups.

So far, 300 rds of 3 different manufacturers ammo and it's been flawless.

I DO for sure notice that it's much smoother now than it was out of the box.

What I DID notice is that some videos of people who are having issues, the gun seems to cycle MUCH slower than mine does. Mine is very crisp and snappy, but others in the vids are sluggish for sure.

I'd love to get serial numbers (not the full number, more like 5XXX, 11XXX, etc) and see if it's a bad batch or if it's actually just random.
 
I think its best to have a wait and see attitude when it comes to new releases. When I first seen the Prodigy I wanted to go out and get one- even though I didn't need a 9mm. I also wanted a 10mm M&P. Glad I didn't purchase that one either as they seem to be having issues. I think the longer time they are out the bugs get fixed on them or at least hope they do. I will wait to see how the Prodigy does 6 months from now.
@BET7 and I have the m&p 10mm. I have the 4" w/thumb safety and have 0 issues.
 
IF there is a "bur" causing a hang up that's pretty sad for a $1,500 pistol. Shame on SA! The only thing worse is sending firearms back multiple times that at least should've been fixed the 1st return! I've delt with dealerships (auto) the same way.
So a bur may not be the reason, but if there is a burr or grit, cycling the slide wears the moving parts together. The parts are self polishing with each other. I can’t say for sure what caused the issues with everyones Pistol. But what I can say there seems to be a correlation between people that dryfire a bunch and others have reported that over time and usage the pistol gets better.
 
@BET7 and I have the m&p 10mm. I have the 4" w/thumb safety and have 0 issues.
But you can easily say that Smith & Wesson has had multiple recalls in the last couple years. So you have zero issues with your pistol but others did have issues with that manufacturer. Also the M&P series has been through multiple generations and inline updates. You comparing a mature product with a new first time pistol. With every mass produced item you get lemons. This thread is to give advice for someone who wants to get a Prodigy and give them the best chance for success.
 
But you can easily say that Smith & Wesson has had multiple recalls in the last couple years. So you have zero issues with your pistol but others did have issues with that manufacturer. Also the M&P series has been through multiple generations and inline updates. You comparing a mature product with a new first time pistol. With every mass produced item you get lemons. This thread is to give advice for someone who wants to get a Prodigy and give them the best chance for success.
SA has tons of experience with 1911's! It's not new, just the name and being double stack. With smith the poly m&p are more new than SA's decades of 1911's. Whether it be a prodigy or rem700 (has been around for decades also) and their r/d guns work great, but after that things go south quick like why? My suggestion will likely go unattended! M&P are half the cost and IF you get what you pay for you would think I bought a hipoint compared to the prodigy! Not every gun can run like the xdm's I guess?
 
All of this sounds like great advice on things you can do to remedy all of the hang up issues of the Prodigy that seem to be pretty widespread based on all the You Tube videos, online posts, and my own experience through 375 rounds. Has Springfield Armory announced any official word on what customers can or should do to fix these issues without having to send in the gun for a lengthy possible repair ?
 
All of this sounds like great advice on things you can do to remedy all of the hang up issues of the Prodigy that seem to be pretty widespread based on all the You Tube videos, online posts, and my own experience through 375 rounds. Has Springfield Armory announced any official word on what customers can or should do to fix these issues without having to send in the gun for a lengthy possible repair ?
IF SA gives owners any at home repair ideas most likely it will be faster than sending it back in to remedy the issue(s). What would that do to warrantee? I only own 2 SA products and both are 5.25" precision xdm's (40s&w, 10mm). My oldest likes the 40 and I favor the 10mm. Maybe 2k rounds in each without any fte, ftf or stovepiping. Great product line on my experience and those who have shot the 2 I have.
 
All my members of the extended XD/XDm family have run fine from Day 1, & never needed a break-in, dry-firing, etc.
The 5" XD Mod.2 9mm (with GRIPZONE!!!! :LOL:) was the first purchase I ever made and I had no idea about maintenance, just basics of how to use it and basic safety at home, the range, etc.

I went to the range the day after I got it and put probably 300 rds through it right out of the box without an issue. I cleaned it after since it was filthy but I was never told I should clean and lube before using it.

From what I can remember, I've never heard anyone at the store tell me they recommend cleaning / lubing it before using it. Feel like that's something they should mention, especially to first time buyers. Would probably save a lot of headaches for everyone!
 
The 5" XD Mod.2 9mm (with GRIPZONE!!!! :LOL:) was the first purchase I ever made and I had no idea about maintenance, just basics of how to use it and basic safety at home, the range, etc.

I went to the range the day after I got it and put probably 300 rds through it right out of the box without an issue. I cleaned it after since it was filthy but I was never told I should clean and lube before using it.

From what I can remember, I've never heard anyone at the store tell me they recommend cleaning / lubing it before using it. Feel like that's something they should mention, especially to first time buyers. Would probably save a lot of headaches for everyone!
If nothing else it’s just good common sense to know how to break down a gun before you shoot it. Most user Manuals tell you to remove packing grease and clean and lube. And you’re right, if they don’t they should.

That’s something I and most of us probably take for granted as something everyone knows.
 
So I think there is a combination of problems happening.

You have a lower poundage recoils spring combined with a heavy slide, especially if you add a red dot. With that reported 9 pound spring it has to return all that mass back closed. If you watch videos of people shooting the 5 inch prodigy fast you can actually see the slide cycling. This is cycling at a slower rate than say an XD slide with an 18 pound spring. The slide on the XD cycles so fast it is almost imperceptible to the human eye.

So member’s have suggested a higher pound recoil spring witch in turn cycles the slide faster and slams it home harder. When you get that mass moving faster the slide is forced over the disconnect and does not hang up or slow down so much that it wont feed.

the other part of the equation is the main spring. Being a new pistol all the springs are the strongest they will ever be. The middle leaf of the main spring pushes on the disconnecter and in a production factory gun may not be adjusted at all. There could be just a little too much pressure on the disconnect or a bur that‘s hanging it up. Combined with the slow cycle of the slide is just enough to hang it up. There are a couple things you can do. Adjust the main spring, for instance I like to add pressure on the right leaf and add pressure on the grip safety. I like a more positive feeling on my GS. Then reducing pressure on the trigger bar drops trigger poundage. This is not something you want to do willie nilly and really should know what you are doing.

Now as I said the springs are the heaviest they ever will be out of the box. Simply dry firing and cycling the slide will move the disconnector and if there is a burr, should get rid of it. The top tip of the disconnect will rub on the underside of the slide polishing the bearing areas. The second thing it will do is flex the spring enough to get it to take its set. Meaning the spring will weaken slightly and get to a reduced weight for most of its service life. This sweet spot is where the Prodigy just like any other 1911 likes to be.

Now you can force feed the pistol shooting it and when it hangs up you will run into the example like @SimonRL had where one or two hang ups, but then follow through and keep shooting And then great success. And for my example I had a great success but I did do something to my gun before I ever shot it. I sat in my underwear and dryfired the **** out of my Prodigy while watching tv. Now before you laugh dryfire work is what makes you better with firearms. Dryfiring is way cheaper practice than actually shooting and gets you so comfortable with your firearms that they become second hand nature. I do this practicing reloads as well. The process of cycling the slide and dry firing pre wore all the parts to a point that my first hang up was after throwing my gun in the dirt 3 different times and going aprox 250 rnds. I would ask that users do not make me show ”pics or it didn’t happen”. I would also further venture to guess that most of the “influencers“ being true gun people also dryfire new guns to get to know them to talk about them. So what makes more sense Springfield sent guns that were perfectly tuned or like me the first thing I did was dryfire the **** out of the pistol. just dryfiring a couple hundred times and the pistol feels significantly different from right out of the box….something to keep in mind. This could also explain the widely different experiences that some people were having.

The next thing to ponder is the slide to frame fit with Cerakote. As you shoot the pistol the slide cycles smoother with time. As the Cerakote and metal wears into each other polishing it self. Less resistance in slide cycle can mean better reliably.

It‘s something to think about and if you think that I am full of it, thats fine just google 1911 slide hanging up on disconnect. So there are a couple things you can do for better success
1. change the recoil spring
2. adjust the main spring
3. dryfire and cycle the slide.
Pros and cons
Recoil springs cost around 5-16 dollars
Adjusting the main spring requires knowledge
Dryfire is free

Xdman’s Prodigy and my new Magpul Rigger EDC
View attachment 30678

That said what are everyones thoughts. And did you dryfire before shooting and what was the result when you actually fired?
I am not one to change many internal parts of a gun, especially a new out of the box gun. I do tear it apart, clean everything good and then heavily lube (sometimes use gun grease) the basic moving points. After that is when I will cycle it and dry fire it a bunch. Sometimes after a bunch of cycling and dry firing it just starts to feel smoother. After that I'll take it apart wipe down any of the heavy grease or lube. Then I apply a fair amount of a very light oil on places like the slides, barrel and such that have a lot of contact during cycling ... then head to the range for its debute.

After it's broken in I just use a touch of light oil on the moving parts. It seems to work for me.
 
New here, but as someone who acquired a Prodigy 4.25" last week (I also own a TRP, and several other higher-end production 1911s), I figured it was a good time to join the forum and chime in.

First, thanks for this post, @xdman - solid thoughts and rationale.

To recap my experience so far with my Prodigy:

When I first got it home, I field stripped it and gave it a good once-over - based on what I could see internally, build quality was pretty much on par with my TRP (although my TRP has a nicer trigger). Everything was smooth and properly finished, slide/frame fitment had no slop in at whatsoever, but also wasn't too tight, the slide rode smoothly on the rails, etc. There were no hangups in initial dry firing of the gun. I thoroughly lubed it, (incl. a drop of oil on the disconnector) and took it to the range. This is the ammo I ran through the Prodigy over the course of two consecutive range sessions, with no cleaning/maintenance in between:
  • Browning 115gr FMJ (200 rds) - zero issues
  • Winchester 124gr FMJ (50 rds) - zero issues
  • HSM re-manufactured 115gr FMJ (50 rds) -zero issues
  • Federal Punch 124gr JHP (20 rds) - zero issues
  • Fiocchi 147gr FMJ - several FTFs
  • Winchester M1152 FN (50 rds) - zero issues
So that's almost 400 rounds now, with different bullet types, different grain weights, even re-manufactured that had varying case widths, and no issues other than the gun clearly didn't like the Fiocchi 147 gr. for some reason. Took the Prodigy apart yesterday to inspect and give it a second cleaning, and everything looks normal inside.

I'm not denying that there are some legitimate issues out there, but I also have to wonder how much internet drama (esp. with YT reviews) is really warranted, esp. when it seems like in many cases, a proper initial cleaning/lube, a simple recoil spring swap and some dry reps/a few range sessions would have probably solved the issue. It does sound like Springfield should be shipping these with stronger recoil springs (esp. the 5" model), but really, at the end of the day, when you've spent $1500 on a pistol and a $10 spring swap turns out to be required, is it really that big of a deal? Having a few extra recoil springs on hand, in varying weights, is a good idea anyway, esp. if you're going to own any 1911s. Just my .02...

-----

P.S. I also have a M&P 10mm that I've shot all kinds of ammo through, from weak to hot, and zero issues with that as well. I guess I'm just incredibly lucky. ;)
 
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