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Slide Stop Issues upon Reassembly w New SA RO SS 9mm

P

panamax

Alpha
I am no newbie to firearms, but this new gun is incredibly difficult to reassemble due to the slide stop. My left thumb is sore from trying so many times to nudge that thing in. If I were in the field and had to get this done I'd be in a hurt unless I hammered it back in.
What might I be doing wrong here?
Anyone else experience this level of difficulty?
How did you overcome it?
I'd appreciate any suggestions to make this a whole lot easier.
 
The secret is:

Align the barrel link with the slide stop hole, insert the slide stop, align the takedown notch on the slide, and then rotate the slide stop up (do NOT let it come in contact with the frame lest you cause an “idiot scratch”) until it contacts the slide stop detent; then push it gently, but firmly up while pushing in.
 
HansGruber said:
The secret is:

Align the barrel link with the slide stop hole, insert the slide stop, align the takedown notch on the slide, and then rotate the slide stop up (do NOT let it come in contact with the frame lest you cause an “idiot scratch”) until it contacts the slide stop detent; then push it gently, but firmly up while pushing in.
Click to expand...
Easier said than done. I got a small idiot scratch on one SA .45 long ago
 
HansGruber said:
The secret is:

Align the barrel link with the slide stop hole, insert the slide stop, align the takedown notch on the slide, and then rotate the slide stop up (do NOT let it come in contact with the frame lest you cause an “idiot scratch”) until it contacts the slide stop detent; then push it gently, but firmly up while pushing in.
Click to expand...
Been there, tried that and still couldn't get it done! Where's the hammer?
Thanks
 
HansGruber said:
The catch slipped on my Para P14.45 and I scratched the slide, so...I’ve been there, myself.
Click to expand...
Never scratched mine but it took about 45 minutes the first time I was putting my RO back together. Kept reading the instructions and walked away a few times to calm down. When it finally dropped in it was a relief, now second nature.
Which reminds me, going to the range on Monday so today I’m cleaning and oiling all my guns.
 
I had the same issues with my first 1911 reassembly. It was probably close to an hour, reading manual and watching several uTubes on reassembly of 1911. Take it from this "Idiot" to any other potential "Idiots" and their 1911 potential scratches, use something like the product below (a friend told me about), to prevent any such occurrence (I specified the SA RO (all models), to get to the below link).
Disclaimer: I'm not calling Panamax or anyone out there an Idiot (except for me), just meant for those that have put scratches on the 1911 frame from reassembly because that's the term used "Idiot Scratch".

1911 Standard Models

www.idiotscratch.com www.idiotscratch.com
 
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It continues to be impossible doing this without the use of mechanical assistance. Ultimately I found a tiny flathead screwdriver and used that to depress the slide stop plunger while lining up the slide stop. I eased the screwdriver out while pushing down and up to seat the slide stop. I wonder if the slide stop spring is too strong, the plunger or slide stop is not machined to spec or this is what you can expect until you have 500 rounds through this beast?
 
I had the same problem with my Ronin. Ultimately, I filed “the notch” in the lever and now it goes in trouble free. I also have a New SS Range Officer and I was expecting the same BS because of the Ronin, but no trouble whatsoever. I think it is down to the plunger. My Ronin plunger was hard to push in even using a small flathead screwdriver. BTW, the maroon Scotch Brite pad does an amazing job getting rid of the idiot scratch on a stainless pistol.!
 
SimonRL said:
I had the same problem with my Ronin. Ultimately, I filed “the notch” in the lever and now it goes in trouble free. I also have a New SS Range Officer and I was expecting the same BS because of the Ronin, but no trouble whatsoever. I think it is down to the plunger. My Ronin plunger was hard to push in even using a small flathead screwdriver. BTW, the maroon Scotch Brite pad does an amazing job getting rid of the idiot scratch on a stainless pistol.!
Click to expand...
Would you be so kind as to provide a picture with a toothpick or something similar pointing to the spot you filed. What type file you used and was it two or three light strokes or whatever it took. Send a pic of the file as if possible. Great suggestion about the maroon Scotch Brite pad.
Thank you.
 
Panamax, here you go. It’s not the prettiest groove I’ve seen, but I have a tendency to goober things up the first time and then do it like a pro the second. I was trying to avoid that, so as soon as I tested it and it worked, I stopped. I literally just position the notch over the plunger and moderately push down and it goes right in. I bought the pack of needle files from Lowe’s. I already had a large set of needles files, but they weren’t quite “needle-y” enough. I would say this took me about an hour, YMMV, because I was nervous about messing it up and honestly you have to develop a rhythm with the files. It was difficult actually getting a groove started, but once I did, things went pretty quickly. I used a couple different files from the set - particularly the round “rat tail” file and the one that has a knife like blade with a fine edge. BTW, I did not use a vice to hold the lever, I did it by hand, which may, or may not, have made it harder. I hope these pics work for you, it’s not rocket science, you just have to take a deep breath and say a quick prayer!
 

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Simon,
Excellent Response. I am convinced beyond any reasonable doubt now after looking at your pics, easily inserting a slide stop into a a Colt and studying the various bevel cuts under a magnifying glass that they and/or the plunger length are out of spec. I hope SA monitors these posts. I'm sure others will find this very helpful.
Thank you.
 
I decided to write the warranty department last night and described the issue in more detail. I asked if they might send another slide lock as opposed to having me send the gun back in. Also I got out a magnifying glass to see the bevel cuts on my Colt Gold Cup. That slide stop works as it should. Its bevel cuts are definitely different. I thought...why not switch them out and see if the guns will function. I was able to easily put the Colt's slide stop into the Springfield, but the slide would hang up or seem to get stuck. I found if I banged on or pushed on the slide stop it would release. So it seems the SA part will work in the Colt and pass a function check but not the other way around. Most curious. They do say the 1911s require some hand fitting and I guess this is an example of that. Comparing the two frames it was clear the SA was beefier all around and that's where the additonal 6 oz in weight must come from (35 oz vs 41 oz).
 
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