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Sta-Bil CLP

Annihilator

Annihilator

Emissary
Founding Member
Anybody try this yet, saw it at my shop, red in color and somewhat watery, not sure it’s polymer safe, doesn’t say on bottle or web site

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Guess the debate is any solvent based CLP ok for polymers especially if the Sta-Bil/GoldEagle brands is one of their own formulated products or a private re-labeled product from another manufacturer which is often the case when getting into a new product market.
 
Area52 said:
Guess the debate is any solvent based CLP ok for polymers especially if the Sta-Bil/GoldEagle brands is one of their own formulated products or a private re-labeled product from another manufacturer which is often the case when getting into a new product market.
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I know all if Lucas products are polymer safe, this Sta-Bil stuff is just like colored water from what I saw of it
 
Annihilator said:
Lol, I was at my Wallie World and they carry this now……😬
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One of the things I fight with my wife about is Wally World. I F'in hate that place. I hate being in there. Drives me insane. The aisles are small, there's people everywhere. I can barely tolerate it. Then you add the fact that they are anti-gun and no longer even sell pistol ammo and I really hate them. Don't want to give them a penny of my money. Unfortunately my wife says if she started shopping somewhere else she would have to go to 3-4 places and pay a lot more for what we need and she isn't willing to do it. Nevertheless, it's bad enough I have to give them my money, I damn sure ain't going in the store to get it unless I have no other choice.
 
Bassbob said:
One of the things I fight with my wife about is Wally World. I F'in hate that place. I hate being in there. Drives me insane. The aisles are small, there's people everywhere. I can barely tolerate it. Then you add the fact that they are anti-gun and no longer even sell pistol ammo and I really hate them. Don't want to give them a penny of my money. Unfortunately my wife says if she started shopping somewhere else she would have to go to 3-4 places and pay a lot more for what we need and she isn't willing to do it. Nevertheless, it's bad enough I have to give them my money, I damn sure ain't going in the store to get it unless I have no other choice.
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this is where retirement helps.

i am up 7 days a week at 4 AM

wally-world here opens at 6 AM.....no fuss, no muss, quiet, no one in my way, get in, get out.
 
I don’t remember who recommended this to me but I used it for removing rust from a badly rusted shotgun I had decided to rework. I used it with 0000 steel wool and then wiped it down and recortes it with the CLP. It dried after about 24 hours and has protected it for the last month. Still feels slick but the film doesn’t come off. I was pretty impressed.
 
Chas250 said:
I don’t remember who recommended this to me but I used it for removing rust from a badly rusted shotgun I had decided to rework. I used it with 0000 steel wool and then wiped it down and recortes it with the CLP. It dried after about 24 hours and has protected it for the last month. Still feels slick but the film doesn’t come off. I was pretty impressed.
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That's a good method for surface rust. If you can slowly remove it with steel wool without removing the finish you can save yourself some time and trouble that way. I usually know pretty quick if the steel wool is going to get the job done. If it's going to involve removing any of the finish I stop and don't waste any more time with it. I then move over to my brass wheel on the bench grinder, just enough to get all the rust off. The next step is to clean the metal thoroughly, 2 or 3 times with Brake Clean ( using nitrile gloves and making sure not to touch the metal with bare hands). Then heat the metal with a heat gun, not until it's red or anything, just until it's uncomfortable to touch and start applying Oxpho Blue with cotton balls. No need to clean between coats, just keep applying coats, using new cotton balls, until the depth of the blue is what you want. Then buff lightly with steel wool, wipe the gun down with a clean dry rag and then wipe the gun down with oil.

The thing Oxpho Blue does 1000 times better than the Birchwood Casey stuff is eliminate the problem of under rust. That is rust forming under the new cold bluing you applied. It also blues deeper, faster. I cleaned up some guns a few years ago, starting with the Birchwood stuff. I'd check the guns a few days later and there would be rust on them. I went through a few bottles before I decided to try Brownells Oxpho Blue. That and heating the metal solved that problem.
 
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