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Water Displacing Oil

Bassbob

Bassbob

Emissary
The Polymer gun cleaning thread reminded me I wanted to ask you guys something. When bluing a gun one of the stepsis to soak the parts in WDO overnight after you're done bluing and polishing. The general consensus is the Brownells " Best" Water Displacing Oil. That stuff is about $80 a gallon though and I'm sure there are other WDOs that will do the job without me having to take out a payday loan. Anyone have any suggestions ? I have heard WD-40 works, but frankly I won't take that stuff anywhere near a gun.
 
Bassbob said:
The Polymer gun cleaning thread reminded me I wanted to ask you guys something. When bluing a gun one of the stepsis to soak the parts in WDO overnight after you're done bluing and polishing. The general consensus is the Brownells " Best" Water Displacing Oil. That stuff is about $80 a gallon though and I'm sure there are other WDOs that will do the job without me having to take out a payday loan. Anyone have any suggestions ? I have heard WD-40 works, but frankly I won't take that stuff anywhere near a gun.
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Not really, but I know WD-40 is basically water based, not good for guns, but I know a lot of guys who do use it on there guns
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
So you're using the wdo after? If not the mineral spirits will get rid of oil and water.
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Yes, after the barrel/part is blued to your satisfaction and polished with 0000, it's cleaned with clean water, dried thoroughly and sprayed or put in a bath of WDO overnight or for some specified amount of time. Then you take it out of the WDO, clean it with clean rags and oil it as you normally oil gun parts.

Right now I am cold bluing with Brownells Oxpho-Blue because I haven't gotten my bluing tanks yet. I am experimenting with different techniques. Cold bluing is really not all that great other than for touch ups and stuff, but I am in a position where I need to do it so... So far I have not used the WDO nor have I heated the parts with a heat gun prior to applying the bluing. My results have been less than stellar with regards to rust prevention. So that 500 I stripped and cleaned after I got back from Texas is going to be stripped back down, cleaned and degreased, heated, blued, cleaned, WDO'ed and cleaned and oiled and put in the closet for a week or so to monitor the resistance to rust.
 
Bassbob said:
Yes, after the barrel/part is blued to your satisfaction and polished with 0000, it's cleaned with clean water, dried thoroughly and sprayed or put in a bath of WDO overnight or for some specified amount of time. Then you take it out of the WDO, clean it with clean rags and oil it as you normally oil gun parts.

Right now I am cold bluing with Brownells Oxpho-Blue because I haven't gotten my bluing tanks yet. I am experimenting with different techniques. Cold bluing is really not all that great other than for touch ups and stuff, but I am in a position where I need to do it so... So far I have not used the WDO nor have I heated the parts with a heat gun prior to applying the bluing. My results have been less than stellar with regards to rust prevention. So that 500 I stripped and cleaned after I got back from Texas is going to be stripped back down, cleaned and degreased, heated, blued, cleaned, WDO'ed and cleaned and oiled and put in the closet for a week or so to monitor the resistance to rust.
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I might have some bluing? I'll check.
 
WD40 has its share of petroleum but no means a water based product, as a water displacer it’s purpose is for engine/electrical contact situations and rust inhibitor.
The one issue I was told by an armorer about WD40 & firearms is that using it as a cleaner/oil, any excess could leach from crevices, get into and ruin cartridge primers = failure to fire.
Mineral spirits can leave a film from the oil residue. Denatured alcohol is a good cleaner that strips oils.
 
Bassbob said:
Yes, after the barrel/part is blued to your satisfaction and polished with 0000, it's cleaned with clean water, dried thoroughly and sprayed or put in a bath of WDO overnight or for some specified amount of time. Then you take it out of the WDO, clean it with clean rags and oil it as you normally oil gun parts.

Right now I am cold bluing with Brownells Oxpho-Blue because I haven't gotten my bluing tanks yet. I am experimenting with different techniques. Cold bluing is really not all that great other than for touch ups and stuff, but I am in a position where I need to do it so... So far I have not used the WDO nor have I heated the parts with a heat gun prior to applying the bluing. My results have been less than stellar with regards to rust prevention. So that 500 I stripped and cleaned after I got back from Texas is going to be stripped back down, cleaned and degreased, heated, blued, cleaned, WDO'ed and cleaned and oiled and put in the closet for a week or so to monitor the resistance to rust.
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You actually have the answer right in front of you, wether you cold blue or get into hot blueing like it sounds you are heading in the direction of the answer to your water/moisture free WDO is heat and a good petroleum based oil. You need to heat the oil up so that it won’t accept any water but not to a point where oil is popping all over the place. very warm, Suspend the gun part in the oil don’t allow it to sit on the bottom of the oil filled container. The right temperature lowers the amount of time the part needs to be in oil. When done lift suspend part out of the heated oil, let it drain and cool off, Lightly Wipe it down. Add your favorite gun oil.

Like everything with firearms safety is paramount and heated oil of any kind can’t be left unattended.
 
Keystone19250 said:
You actually have the answer right in front of you, wether you cold blue or get into hot blueing like it sounds you are heading in the direction of the answer to your water/moisture free WDO is heat and a good petroleum based oil. You need to heat the oil up so that it won’t accept any water but not to a point where oil is popping all over the place. very warm, Suspend the gun part in the oil don’t allow it to sit on the bottom of the oil filled container. The right temperature lowers the amount of time the part needs to be in oil. When done lift suspend part out of the heated oil, let it drain and cool off, Lightly Wipe it down. Add your favorite gun oil.

Like everything with firearms safety is paramount and heated oil of any kind can’t be left unattended.
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So you're saying instead of using a specifically water displacing oil, just use any decent petroleum based oil and heat it up ? Even with cold bluing? Interesting.
 
Here's a video of Bob restoring a rusted 50AE Desert Eagle he had laying around. Good informative video Bob 😬 😁

 
BET7 said:
Here's a video of Bob restoring a rusted 50AE Desert Eagle he had laying around. Good informative video Bob 😬 😁

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I love those videos. He never explained what he did about the rifling though.

Next video in the queue is a shotgun restoration. :)
 
Bassbob said:
I love those videos. He never explained what he did about the rifling though.

Next video in the queue is a shotgun restoration. :)
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I started reading the comments where someone asks how accuate were the shots with the bad rifling. But with close to 2000 comments and not seeing an answer by the poster close by to the question, I wasn't going to read through them all. I get the impression that he left the rifling as is.
 
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