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Yeah, yeah, yeah...

I know the horse is dead but I wanna beat it some more, okay? I know in regards to steel case ammo, they are hard on exrtactors and some brands can be corrosive to parts. I bought my first (key word there) 1911 and I know it's gonna be hungry so I wanna feed it right. I imagine it takes quite awhile for parts to wear out when using steel cased ammo, right? I can't imagine a box or 5 of steel case would be that damaging or am I wrong? 250 rounds let's say. I know consistently it can be bad for the mechanics but for this little?

What about the opposite end of the scale such as aluminum?

If it matters, my 1911 is a Tisas 1911A1 clone. I bring that up because of the hardness of materials between different manufacturers.
 
I know the horse is dead but I wanna beat it some more, okay? I know in regards to steel case ammo, they are hard on exrtactors and some brands can be corrosive to parts. I bought my first (key word there) 1911 and I know it's gonna be hungry so I wanna feed it right. I imagine it takes quite awhile for parts to wear out when using steel cased ammo, right? I can't imagine a box or 5 of steel case would be that damaging or am I wrong? 250 rounds let's say. I know consistently it can be bad for the mechanics but for this little?

What about the opposite end of the scale such as aluminum?

If it matters, my 1911 is a Tisas 1911A1 clone. I bring that up because of the hardness of materials between different manufacturers.
The steel won't wear out your firearms that myth has been debunked through many studies though steel doesn't always feed through certain guns.
 
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Ok, just to clear up a few misconceptions…

First off, unless it’s former comblock surplus, in comblock calibers, it’s not going to be corrosive…it’s just not. Buy current production stuff, and you won’t have to worry about that.

So, moving on:

Will 250 rounds hurt your pistol?

No.

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again…I put, literally, thousands of rounds of nothing but steel cased ammo through a well-used Glock 21 with absolutely no damage or degradation in accuracy.

And, honestly—even if it did damage your extractor…extractors are cheap. You wanna learn to be a gunsmith? You’ll want to know how to tune and fit a 1911 extractor: learning opportunity. Buy a Wilson Bulletproof extractor and go to town.

So shoot it up.
 
I know the horse is dead but I wanna beat it some more, okay? I know in regards to steel case ammo, they are hard on exrtactors and some brands can be corrosive to parts. I bought my first (key word there) 1911 and I know it's gonna be hungry so I wanna feed it right. I imagine it takes quite awhile for parts to wear out when using steel cased ammo, right? I can't imagine a box or 5 of steel case would be that damaging or am I wrong? 250 rounds let's say. I know consistently it can be bad for the mechanics but for this little?

What about the opposite end of the scale such as aluminum?

If it matters, my 1911 is a Tisas 1911A1 clone. I bring that up because of the hardness of materials between different manufacturers.
i have shot steel ammo, like Wolf. never tried Tulammo, or any other brand.

but that was back when the steel (Russian) ammo WAS cheaper and available when brass was not.


now, from my browsing thru a few ammo online stores, i "see" where steel is priced about the same as brass, and my LGS is selling brass cheaper these days as well.

so, i have no need to buy steel.

i can change out an extractor if i have to, i learnt that on my Glocks, and i can "see" where doing extractor replacements on my 1911's are not that difficult, and i am a hobbyist shooter, not someone like you, that is "studying???" to become a gunsmith.

you should have NO FEAR of doing your vocation when the time arises, over say someone like me, that just takes care of my few collective firearms.
 
If it matters, my 1911 is a Tisas 1911A1 clone. I bring that up because of the hardness of materials between different manufacturers.
my 2 CZ's are made in the Czech Republic, only about 3" away on the map from Russia, where the Wolf and other Russian brands are made.

now you'd think that Czech being THAT close to Russia, that my CZ guns will shoot steel ammo..??

you'd be wrong....

so "some guns", just as they have problems with "some brass brands", (my CZ 97B .45ACP..????)

HATES Blazer Brass.....

many have problems with steel, and aluminum...

so buy 1 box, try it, then go for there.

and be the gunsmith you wanna be, and fix'em..????
 
Having shot recent batches of steel .223 in my AR and am 3/4 way through a case of Tulamo 9mm through my P365, the biggest difference is how dirty the gunpowder burns, and leaves residue in your firearm. That cleans up very nicely with Hoppe's, CLP, or whatever you clean up with. I'm not buying that steel breaks extractors until I see it. Unless the brass cases have clear gouges from the extractor seating process, the extractor should be seeing the same "stresses" while seating on either casing. I mentioned on another thread though, that Tulamo 9mm steel fires burning chunks of gunpowder down my indoor range and is quite entertaining to watch. I see sparks hitting the bullet ramp that's 75' away from me on occasion. It's quite a sight! (remember, 3" barrel here)

Due to the unclean powder burning, you can have cartridge seating issues in the chamber after extended sessions shooting steel, so I've heard (and sounds plausible). That has caused breakages, so I've read but not experienced...cheers!
 
I recently bought a Freedom Ordnance FX-9 and that manufacturer provides a list of ammo they recommend in including Wolf and Tulammo. I ran both through it and some Monarch that I bought for a rainy day and it all ran fine. It was very dirty though and smelly which did not really suit a blowback gun. I’d shoot it again if I didn’t have better options.
 
Due to the unclean powder burning, you can have cartridge seating issues in the chamber after extended sessions shooting steel, so I've heard (and sounds plausible). That has caused breakages, so I've read but not experienced...cheers!
i get PLENTY of unclean/dirty ammo from the store where i get my reloaded ammo from.

good for plinking, not so good for more time cleaning
 
Makes one wonder if it was SOO bad for your firearm why would someone like Hornady start making it??

I've shot thousands of Steel cased Wolf through my AR, it still had all the factory parts it came with 30yrs ago. It has never missed a beat. Yes it is much dirtier, but for god sakes man clean your firearm when you're done 😁

Buy the steel .45 stuff be prepared for it not to be as accurate as brass stuff. It's not going to hurt a thing.
 
so "some guns", just as they have problems with "some brass brands", (my CZ 97B .45ACP..????)

HATES Blazer Brass.....

many have problems with steel, and aluminum...

so buy 1 box, try it, then go for there.

and be the gunsmith you wanna be, and fix'em..????

^ This, +eleventybillionandone , @Wannabewoodsman

Unique guns may have unique problems with unique ammo - it's just a matter of tolerance stacking.

This is why we vet the ammo that we shoot: not just for accuracy/precision, but also for function.

Too lazy to do so, or too cheap to invest in the time/expense of small quantities of a variety of ammo?

It's some head-scratching and a quick laugh (or being teased and roasted to shreds by your shooting buddies) on the range. It's the risk of embarrassment at a match. It's the frustration of poor performance and lack of proper learning in training classes or when you're engaged in solo practice. It's the possibility of your defensive/duty weapon going "click" instead of "bang" when you're engaged in the fight of your life.

Want a concrete example of tolerance stacking?

When my buddy completed his Roland Special build, we were both somewhat worried about the supposed ammo-finickiness of that setup (for those unfamiliar who are reading this post, the Roland Special is a Glock 19 which has some specific enhancements grafted on to it, including a muzzle compensator and slide-mounted micro-red-dot optic, it's these additions, as well as the oftentimes resultant need to use a different recoil spring in the gun to insure proper cycling/function that can cause the gun to be picky about ammo).

To insure that we wouldn't waste a range trip, I brought out with me sixteen (16) different makes/models of factory ammo - everything from el-cheapo range-fodder as well as premium defensive/duty cartridges - to give the gun both some good exercise as well as to log some data for ourselves.

To our astonishment, the gun performed just about the same with 15 of the 16 different 9x19 cartridges - everything from 115 gr. to 147 gr., standard pressure and +P. At the 22 yard line (we were limited to that distance based on the range, typically, we'd have taken things out to the 25 yard line for this kind of vetting), everything was coming in well within the black on a B8 repair center, and my buddy wasn't even taking his time with the shots. :D It even ran TulAmmo just fine.

The only exception was 147 gr. aluminum-cased Blazer, which, for whatever reason, caused the gun to literally open its group size to double what we saw with any of the other ammo. The gun shot both 115 and 124 gr. variants of that same Blazer aluminum just fine, and it also shot various other 147 gr. ammo (including both Speer GDHP and Federal HST) just fine, too. Literally, everything was fist-sized with the exception of the 147 gr. Blazer aluminum, which became open-hand-sized. We even re-tested this ammo a few more times, just to be sure.

Don't worry about modern non-corrosive primer aluminum or steel case, @Wannabewoodsman .

You'll be surprised at how many shooters - even before any kind of ammo shortages - will use "Tula" in their $1K+, $2K+, or even $4K+ pistols and carbines at training classes. And no, these folks don't run back to their range bags to pull out "match" ammo before shooting graded exercises, either.

And don't worry too much about getting the gun dirty from carbon fouling. Yes, it's a bit more work to clean, but unless the gun it's shot from is a heirloom, collectible, or otherwise safe-queen, my "amateur"-tip is that if you're spending more tine cleaning than you are shooting, you're missing out. ;)

With modern non-corrosive primers, the real benefit in routine cleaning is actually the physical inspection that you do on the gun and its critical components as you render those surfaces clean enough to truly see them in-detail. If you're going to just mindlessly clean while sitting in front of the TV, you might as well not do it at all. Modern duty/defensive-grade autopistols and semi-auto carbines will function for thousands - if not tens of thousands - of rounds, completely trouble free, with just appropriate lubrication and no cleaning.
 
my 2 CZ's are made in the Czech Republic, only about 3" away on the map from Russia, where the Wolf and other Russian brands are made.

now you'd think that Czech being THAT close to Russia, that my CZ guns will shoot steel ammo..??

you'd be wrong....

so "some guns", just as they have problems with "some brass brands", (my CZ 97B .45ACP..????)

HATES Blazer Brass.....

many have problems with steel, and aluminum...

so buy 1 box, try it, then go for there.

and be the gunsmith you wanna be, and fix'em..????
i forgot to mention in the above posting, that of ALL my .45 ACP semi automatics..????

my CZ 97 B (.45 ACP) also WILL NOT shoot semi wad cutters.

all my other guns, that shoot .45 ACP..??

no problems.

so you learn what YOUR gun(s) can and cannot shoot.
 
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