testtest

revolver shooters, and owners..?

Old_Me

SAINT
ok, here is the "set up"

1) ANY revolver that i have, .38/357 magnum, or 45 Colt LC

2) ANY barrel size or capacity..(ie) 6 or 7 shot....2.5" or 6" barrels

3) ANY ammo brand that i shoot, new, reloaded, brass, aluminum casings.

4) ALL guns are as pristine clean as can be and the wheel and trigger and hammer are lubed as well, as the inside of the barrels get a wiping of oil.

ok, that's the set up, now the question(s):

Q: when i shoot, then eject the spent shell casings, why do some (not all) stay in the wheel's chambers?

i watched i don't know how many videos, where each and every shell casing ejects all at the same time, none get "hung up" in the chambers.

in the beginning, i DID wipe some lube into each chamber, but...after reading maybe 4 different articles in known gun magazines, it was recommended to NOT do that. i think the reasoning was it can gum up the chambers with the residue powders?

now too, i have seen each and every "revolver expert", SLAM the ejector rod with the palm of his hand, but that is for competition shooting, which i do not do, also too, i have a "feeling" that by "slamming" the ejection rod, one can "in time" bend that rod....

Q: any idea(s) as to why some...NOT all spent shell casings hang up in the wheel on ejection..??

thanks in advance
 
Clean your chambers, make sure you give the rod a good smacking (y out won’t bend it by hand pressure just don’t sneak it so hard you impale your palm)

Make sure your ammo isn’t bulging (357 with higher presser can more than others)

And is your ejector rod full length??! Usually 3” or larger yes under 3” probably not

In the USAF when issues S&W Model 15’s we were taught the FBI reload method where we used our thumb and that was enough to clear all 6 38 special cases.
 
Hang up as how? Hang when using the ejector or hang as in facing downward for to fall freely? For the 20 years I had a 629 (44mag) the only time I never needed the ejector is when it was non-fired ammo. Factory or handload ammo all acted the same. As long as it did eject using the ejector I was fine with it. There could've been an occasional few drop if I pointed the muzzle up, but rarely did that.
 
Clean your chambers, make sure you give the rod a good smacking (y out won’t bend it by hand pressure just don’t sneak it so hard you impale your palm)

Make sure your ammo isn’t bulging (357 with higher presser can more than others)

And is your ejector rod full length??! Usually 3” or larger yes under 3” probably not

In the USAF when issues S&W Model 15’s we were taught the FBI reload method where we used our thumb and that was enough to clear all 6 38 special cases.
all NEW or reloaded ammo, as i stated above. never any such "bulges".

full length ejector rod, as per size of the gun, and ejector "resting place" in the frame..

i use my thumb to eject.

chambers are as clean as everything else, NO carbon build up, i use brass cleaning tools, not steel.

i just have a genuine "fear" of bending that rod with my palm.







Hang up as how? Hang when using the ejector or hang as in facing downward for to fall freely? For the 20 years I had a 629 (44mag) the only time I never needed the ejector is when it was non-fired ammo. Factory or handload ammo all acted the same. As long as it did eject using the ejector I was fine with it. There could've been an occasional few drop if I pointed the muzzle up, but rarely did that.
facing downward...yes, they just stay in the chambers, NOT all of them, but a few will.

if i use snap caps, and turn the gun upside down.>??

they fall out super quick.
 
Obviously if it is doing it on every revolver you own I can only think of "operator error".
Do not oil the cylinder holes, if you do use the proper sized or a little oversized cotton mops to remove it after a day or two or right before use. Yes it will not allow a good slide out of the empty cartridge. I've never had that issue on any of my revolver. Fire the gun, open cylinder, turn guns barrel towards sky, smack cylinder rod all the way to the crane, load.
 
Obviously if it is doing it on every revolver you own I can only think of "operator error".
Do not oil the cylinder holes, if you do use the proper sized or a little oversized cotton mops to remove it after a day or two or right before use. Yes it will not allow a good slide out of the empty cartridge. I've never had that issue on any of my revolver. Fire the gun, open cylinder, turn guns barrel towards sky, smack cylinder rod all the way to the crane, load.
well, if i am doing something wrong...what is it..??

not enough force on the ejector rod perhaps..????

take for instance my Ruger Vaquero...Single Action Only

i can only use my finger to eject each round individually, i cannot use my palm, and NO issues with ejections.

i don't shoot my revolvers as much as ANY semi-automatics that i have.
 
Obviously if it is doing it on every revolver you own I can only think of "operator error".
Do not oil the cylinder holes, if you do use the proper sized or a little oversized cotton mops to remove it after a day or two or right before use. Yes it will not allow a good slide out of the empty cartridge. I've never had that issue on any of my revolver. Fire the gun, open cylinder, turn guns barrel towards sky, smack cylinder rod all the way to the crane, load.
you had no issues bending the ejector rod..???
 
I generally don’t have an issue; then again, I eject with gusto.

Never bent an ejector rod yet.

Stuck cases usually come from a dirty chamber and/or overpressure loads. You can also get it by shooting a bunch if .38’s in a .357 when you go back to .357’s (see: dirty chamber).

If you lube your chambers, make sure you clean them before shooting. I just let the light residue from cleaning be enough, and have never had an issue.

Of course, the OP won’t see this…

And the reason you don’t have an issue with the SAO is that you’re only ejecting one case, not 6 (or more).

Eject like you mean it.
 
ok, here is the "set up"

1) ANY revolver that i have, .38/357 magnum, or 45 Colt LC

2) ANY barrel size or capacity..(ie) 6 or 7 shot....2.5" or 6" barrels

3) ANY ammo brand that i shoot, new, reloaded, brass, aluminum casings.

4) ALL guns are as pristine clean as can be and the wheel and trigger and hammer are lubed as well, as the inside of the barrels get a wiping of oil.

ok, that's the set up, now the question(s):

Q: when i shoot, then eject the spent shell casings, why do some (not all) stay in the wheel's chambers?

i watched i don't know how many videos, where each and every shell casing ejects all at the same time, none get "hung up" in the chambers.

in the beginning, i DID wipe some lube into each chamber, but...after reading maybe 4 different articles in known gun magazines, it was recommended to NOT do that. i think the reasoning was it can gum up the chambers with the residue powders?

now too, i have seen each and every "revolver expert", SLAM the ejector rod with the palm of his hand, but that is for competition shooting, which i do not do, also too, i have a "feeling" that by "slamming" the ejection rod, one can "in time" bend that rod....

Q: any idea(s) as to why some...NOT all spent shell casings hang up in the wheel on ejection..??

thanks in advance
Yes, dry chambers, no lube period, if you reloaded them also wipe cases down good, I use a stainless steel chamber brush on the cylinders, just don’t ever use one in bore, or use any stainless brush in a bore, this has occurred with me many times, no worries
 
In the USAF when issues S&W Model 15’s we were taught the FBI reload method where we used our thumb and that was enough to clear all 6 38 special cases.
That's the way I learned to do it, too, but Booya Sam taught me a better way: Hold the gun muzzle-up 90* and SMACK that ejector rod, HARD, ONCE, with your palm. This has worked 100% for me.

I wouldn't worry about bending the ejector rod on a S&W. I have a couple Colts that might concern me.

Only gun I have this wouldn't work on was a Smith 17 (K-22) that had really rough chambers. I sent it back to S&W and I dunno if they polished the chambers or replaced the whole cylinder but it came back in less than 2 weeks, no charge, and has worked perfectly ever since. Evidently this is a somewhat common problem with Smith 17/18s--over the years I've seen the same complaint from other K-22 owners at Rimfirecentral.com and always tell my experience and advise letting Smith fix it, as they seem to know how to. ;)
 
Yes, dry chambers, no lube period, if you reloaded them also wipe cases down good, I use a stainless steel chamber brush on the cylinders, just don’t ever use one in bore, or use any stainless brush in a bore, this has occurred with me many times, no worries
no reloads for several shootings now, all factory new...BUT ANY ammo ANY caliber, that i reload, YES i wipe off (or hand polish) each round, to remove any wax.
 
That's the way I learned to do it, too, but Booya Sam taught me a better way: Hold the gun muzzle-up 90* and SMACK that ejector rod, HARD, ONCE, with your palm. This has worked 100% for me.

I wouldn't worry about bending the ejector rod on a S&W. I have a couple Colts that might concern me.

Only gun I have this wouldn't work on was a Smith 17 (K-22) that had really rough chambers. I sent it back to S&W and I dunno if they polished the chambers or replaced the whole cylinder but it came back in less than 2 weeks, no charge, and has worked perfectly ever since. Evidently this is a somewhat common problem with Smith 17/18s--over the years I've seen the same complaint from other K-22 owners at Rimfirecentral.com and always tell my experience and advise letting Smith fix it, as they seem to know how to. ;)
well that's just it, i have a Python, Ruger, and S&W......

so as you say, you have a concern for your Colt.

i have a concern for ALL of mine.
 
I've been a revolver guy my whole life, but I'm not quite sure what your problem is. One gun or certain brands of ammo I can understand. But all guns and ammo doesn't make sense. Operator error?
Are you pointing the muzzle straight up? If not, sometimes the cases can wobble just a bit and slip past the ejector. Thus falling back into the chamber. Is the cylinder completely open or are cases hanging on the edge of the frame?
I eject with my thumb. Only rarely do I need to smack the ejector rod with my hand. That's usually for magnums.
Are you doing it like this?

 
I've been a revolver guy my whole life, but I'm not quite sure what your problem is. One gun or certain brands of ammo I can understand. But all guns and ammo doesn't make sense. Operator error?
Are you pointing the muzzle straight up? If not, sometimes the cases can wobble just a bit and slip past the ejector. Thus falling back into the chamber. Is the cylinder completely open or are cases hanging on the edge of the frame?
I eject with my thumb. Only rarely do I need to smack the ejector rod with my hand. That's usually for magnums.
Are you doing it like this?

yes. and completely open wheel.
 
I've been a revolver guy my whole life, but I'm not quite sure what your problem is. One gun or certain brands of ammo I can understand. But all guns and ammo doesn't make sense. Operator error?
Are you pointing the muzzle straight up? If not, sometimes the cases can wobble just a bit and slip past the ejector. Thus falling back into the chamber. Is the cylinder completely open or are cases hanging on the edge of the frame?
I eject with my thumb. Only rarely do I need to smack the ejector rod with my hand. That's usually for magnums.
Are you doing it like this?

Yep. I have had trouble with gravity my whole life. But it is useful for loading and unloading revolvers. Getting a spent casing stuck under the star is a trainwreck you don't want if you have to reload in a hurry
 
Back
Top