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1911 80% build.

Tactical-Reviews

Tactical-Reviews

Master Class
Founding Member
I got started on my final project for the advanced armoring course at SDI.EDU. Over the next three weeks I'll be going through the steps. I made sure every part was here. Stealth Arms makes a very good kit. Pricey, but the quality is really up there.
20200516_141406 small.jpg



First step after doing inventory was mounting the frame in the jig. The pins were very snug, no play that I could feel between the frame and side plates
97327018_10158217849794932_1025385225301000192_n.jpg


Cutting the guides on both sides was slow. Adjusting the knob with very small movements worked out very well. I also made sure everything was well lubed.
98104101_10158217849524932_3840028687672016896_n.jpg


I marked the starting point and cut 1.9 turns giving me a perfect .061" depth.
98484473_10158217849584932_4047764869821235200_n.jpg


Rails are cut, had a little bit of chatter, but another pass cleaned that up.
99160507_10158217849734932_876681036468060160_n.jpg


Getting a good fit took about an hour. I used a black marker to find my high spots that needed to be taken down. Once I had it to the point I could get the frame and slide together, I used a little 220 lapping compound. The end result was a very smooth fit and no side to side movement between the frame and slide. I've noticed this fit is the difference between an expensive 1911, and a lower budget 1911. The SA TRP 1911 I have is very tight in this area, whereas the other 1911 which comes in at about half the price has play. I noticed this when I was testing these firearms that when the slide came back, the barrel and sights didn't always align the same. I didn't have this issue with the TRP.
97815461_10158217849439932_5319688261659000832_n.jpg


So ends my work today. Oh ya, I cut the barrel channel, but didn't get a picture of that.
98210823_10158217849374932_5157095879462617088_n.jpg
 
Tactical-Reviews said:
I got started on my final project for the advanced armoring course at SDI.EDU. Over the next three weeks I'll be going through the steps. I made sure every part was here. Stealth Arms makes a very good kit. Pricey, but the quality is really up there.
View attachment 6230


First step after doing inventory was mounting the frame in the jig. The pins were very snug, no play that I could feel between the frame and side plates
View attachment 6229

Cutting the guides on both sides was slow. Adjusting the knob with very small movements worked out very well. I also made sure everything was well lubed.
View attachment 6231

I marked the starting point and cut 1.9 turns giving me a perfect .061" depth.
View attachment 6232

Rails are cut, had a little bit of chatter, but another pass cleaned that up.
View attachment 6233

Getting a good fit took about an hour. I used a black marker to find my high spots that needed to be taken down. Once I had it to the point I could get the frame and slide together, I used a little 220 lapping compound. The end result was a very smooth fit and no side to side movement between the frame and slide. I've noticed this fit is the difference between an expensive 1911, and a lower budget 1911. The SA TRP 1911 I have is very tight in this area, whereas the other 1911 which comes in at about half the price has play. I noticed this when I was testing these firearms that when the slide came back, the barrel and sights didn't always align the same. I didn't have this issue with the TRP.
View attachment 6234

So ends my work today. Oh ya, I cut the barrel channel, but didn't get a picture of that.
View attachment 6235
Click to expand...
This is why we need a dedicated gun smithing thread, great post tactical, can’t wait to see more progress and a finished product.
 
www.thearmorylife.com

Gunsmithing area

What are your thoughts on having a gunsmithing area to deal with troubleshooting, fixing, upgrading, etc all of Springfields' firearms? I've helped to build a lot of forums over the years, and one area I always push for and find it draws in a lot of people are how-to and DIY areas. I would...
www.thearmorylife.com www.thearmorylife.com
 
Today I started polishing the frame. A lot of work goes into it. Not sure if I'm going to polish to a total mirror finish, it's going to get a few scratches anyways. So far, everything is really very easy. The millwork is far less involved than on an AR receiver. But all the little stuff is starting to add up in time. I spent about three hours of polishing. Started with 400 grit wet, then 800 grit wet, finally, 2500 grit wet. Switched over to the dermal and hit it with 220 grit lapping compound, then rubbing compound. Safety first, right? Need to protect the eyes and the beard. If you've never got your hair caught in something spinning, consider yourself lucky.
99293599_10158221193919932_4835480035324329984_n.jpg


98270923_10158221193874932_4918987505367252992_n.jpg


I haven't decided if I'm going to polish the slide or leave it two-tone like this. I'm kind of leaning towards two-tone
99275972_10158221193689932_2566673877723774976_n.jpg
 
I get you feeling on protecting your beard and such from spinning things. When I first started working at my Sheriff Dept, the building was just built, me and a couple-worker were using a cordless heavy duty drill to hang various items on the wall in our medical Dept. I had long hair.....had....that was till my co-worker said something to me and I turned my head fast, my hair got caught in drill, well you can imagine what happened next, thankfully I was already in the medical Dept, wasn’t to bad but got my hair cut next day so I wouldn’t do a stupid repeat of it.
 
Annihilator said:
my hair got caught in drill
Click to expand...
A few months back I got my beard caught in a drill. Lucky for me the drill has instant off when you let go of the trigger, and I have lightning-fast reflexes. Pulled my face right in and stopped there. I stood there for a moment thinking, now what? I switched it into reverse and unwound my beard. Lost some hair, but my face hurt for a week.
 
Got a lot done yesterday on this build. Here I installed the plunger tube, extractor rail, trigger, mag catch, and the hammer

20200520_143843.jpg


Now, the safeties, this was a major pain and took me about two hours. The thumb safety needed a little filing, this was expected and was mentioned in the instructions. So that was a few strokes of the file and put it back in until it worked correctly. The grip safety however, that drove me crazy. If I put the grip safety in by itself with a drift punch, it worked, as soon as I put the thumb safety in, nothing worked. I must have read the instructions a dozen times. Finally I broke down and went to YT and found a video. The guy mentioned the same problem I was having. I had to file a very small amount off of the grip safety and that was it. All works now.
20200520_163540 small.jpg


Function checked and everything works. Still need to test fire. But first I'll be taking it all apart again to clean everything up and get a better polish on the frame.
20200520_171627 small.jpg
 
Now, I’m no gun smith, but I do most of my repairs if I can, hung around a few guys at SSK Industries years ago, I always and still do have problems fitting an extractor on a 1911, I can’t seem to find the happy spot on the tension....lol..anyway Tactical, your project is looking great, thanks for sharing your work and posting pics.
 
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