testtest

1911 full disassembly

Old_Me

Old_Me

SAINT
ok, so i just watched a very good video from gunblue490.

he shows how to fully disassemble a 1911 frame, then reassemble it.

but, he does not mention lubing any of the parts in the reassembly process, like the sear, disconnector, trigger rails, safety lever, etc.

so if any of you do a full disassembly, including cleaning of all the parts, do you lube any or all the parts when you reassemble the frame?

if so, do you use oil, or grease on some parts? like for instance, grease on the sear/hammer.?

also, is there a known, or assumed recommended amount of ammo shot through, that you'd do a full disassembly?

i want to "practice soon", on my Tisas this procedure.

as it is also a good way to learn how to maybe change out a plastic trigger for a metal one, maybe change out the 3 piece spring

thanks in advance.
 
Old_Me said:
ok, so i just watched a very good video from gunblue490.

he shows how to fully disassemble a 1911 frame, then reassemble it.

but, he does not mention lubing any of the parts in the reassembly process, like the sear, disconnector, trigger rails, safety lever, etc.

so if any of you do a full disassembly, including cleaning of all the parts, do you lube any or all the parts when you reassemble the frame?

if so, do you use oil, or grease on some parts? like for instance, grease on the sear/hammer.?

also, is there a known, or assumed recommended amount of ammo shot through, that you'd do a full disassembly?

i want to "practice soon", on my Tisas this procedure.

as it is also a good way to learn how to maybe change out a plastic trigger for a metal one, maybe change out the 3 piece spring

thanks in advance.
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I’m not certain. I know my inclination, barring any definitive expert advice, would be a wipedown with a cloth of oil/lube, taking away any excess but leaving that ‘sheen’ of oil.
I recall looking at videos on Rock Islands website for both field stripping / basic cleaning, then one on full disassembly. Can’t recall if they oiled the lower parts on reassembly. I’ll try to look again.
One caution: for some reason I think I’ve read/heard there is at least one part you do NOT want to lube. But I may be thinking of a gun other than 1911… 🤔
 
Personally I don’t think you put any type of lube or grease and the sear and disconnector, I never have, I would maybe just maybe wipe those parts down with a slightly oiled patch just for removing the fingerprint acids but other then that I wouldn’t.
 
If it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it.

I use Mil-Comm TW25B grease.
Brownells - 100-003-115WB TW25B Weapons Grease 1/2 oz. Syringe Mfr Part: 25151.
The syringe makes application a breeze. Spread it as needed with a wooden coffee stirrer, they're free from Starbucks.

I use grease on the slide rails and any part of the slide that you can see wear. I use just a small amount on each part. Dabs of grease in the locking lugs and around the end of the barrel as it rides through the bushing. Small amount of grease around the recoil spring guide. A tiny dab under the chamber where it contacts the feed ramp

When I clean the firing pin channel I put an almost infinitesimal amount of grease on the firing pin where I can see wear from riding in the channel.

I use NyOil on the hammer pin and sear pin, thumb safety pin and barrel link pins.

NyOil can be purchased from Amazon "NyOil - Thin Film Lubricant"

I do not put any lubricant on the hammer bow.

I work the slide back and forth a few dozen times to spread the grease.

Otherwise everything can be wiped with a "dry" silicone cloth. (Fresh out of the bag they can be sometimes be sopping wet)

Annual full disassembly cleaning and replacement of all springs.

Wolff Springs
69141 COLT 1911 .45, SERVICE PAK TYPE-I 17.99
 
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i know from another video (or two) that it was shown when you field strip, clean and lube, a "drop" of oil can be put onto the top of the disconnector and from there, it'll migrate down the disconnector, and get onto whatever else. and yes, it is only a "drop" from a needle point applicator.

i also put a "drop" of oil, on the diconnector's bar under the slide, and spread that with a q-tip.

and that is what i have been doing all these months. i suppose when the time comes that i do a full disassembly, i should "see" remnants of oil on the internals that most likely was put there from the factory?

my thoughts were the metal on metal contact from the sear, hammer, and disconnector.

thanks for the answers, hope to hear a few more in time.
 
HayesGreener said:
I use TW25 grease on the slide and oil elsewhere. When you do a detailed disassembly on a pistol that has been used a bit, the gun will tell you with visible wear marks where it wants lube. A light film of oil on all steel parts provides a corrosion barrier as well.
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I don’t go crazy when lubing any of my pistols. My stainless RO gets TW25 on the slide to avoid any galling. I don’t mess with the sear, hammer, etc, just wipe with an oily patch. My P226 gets TW25 as well, because that’s what Sig recommends. Everything else I use gun oil in the obvious spots, but I always check where the gun is rubbing - they’re all different - and give it some extra lube there. +1 on a drop of oil in the disconnector.
 
Annihilator said:
Like my Colts, my Sig 1911 came with Lucas Oil Extreme Duty Gun Oil
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When did you buy it?
My first SIG w/ TW25B was a P230 in ~2000
My last SIG w/ TW25B was a P229 in 2015.
My P210 came with Slip 2000 in 2020.

I'd really like to know the reasoning behind the lubricant provided with a gun.
Did the manufacturer do testing and determine Y lubricant was better than X? Do they do regular testing to update their choice? That's what I like to imagine.

However what I suspect is:
They simply include a packet of whatever lube they can get a bulk deal on from a lube company and when that stock runs out they put out a bid and buy the cheapest?
 
fordag said:
When did you buy it?
My first SIG w/ TW25B was a P230 in ~2000
My last SIG w/ TW25B was a P229 in 2015.
My P210 came with Slip 2000 in 2020.

I'd really like to know the reasoning behind the lubricant provided with a gun.
Did the manufacturer do testing and determine Y lubricant was better than X? Do they do regular testing to update their choice? That's what I like to imagine.

However what I suspect is:
They simply include a packet of whatever lube they can get a bulk deal on from a lube company and when that stock runs out they put out a bid and buy the cheapest?
Click to expand...
My Colts were 2021 towards end of the year, the Sig was 2020.
 
fordag said:
When did you buy it?
My first SIG w/ TW25B was a P230 in ~2000
My last SIG w/ TW25B was a P229 in 2015.
My P210 came with Slip 2000 in 2020.

I'd really like to know the reasoning behind the lubricant provided with a gun.
Did the manufacturer do testing and determine Y lubricant was better than X? Do they do regular testing to update their choice? That's what I like to imagine.

However what I suspect is:
They simply include a packet of whatever lube they can get a bulk deal on from a lube company and when that stock runs out they put out a bid and buy the cheapest?
Click to expand...
Haha !
Sig has their own stuff anyway - Spec 1 !!! You can find it on Amazon.
I doubt they simply buy the cheapest, but i also do not think they go through some sort of “rigorous testing “ regime to pick something as a freebie, either.
 
TidalWave said:
Haha !
Sig has their own stuff anyway - Spec 1 !!! You can find it on Amazon.
I doubt they simply buy the cheapest, but i also do not think they go through some sort of “rigorous testing “ regime to pick something as a freebie, either.
Click to expand...
If SIG has their own lube why don't they include it with their guns? That's just weird.
 
SimonRL said:
I love when I go to the range and I see someone else with their white gloves on and we give each other that all-knowing Legion nod. My holsters are lined with unicorn leather.
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1643394760951.png

@SimonRL this glove doesn't look white to me..........:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
 
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