testtest

300 Black Out, Hornady Case Reloading

That makes sense then. I didn't know if they crimp and seal or it was just crimp only? I know that part wasn't in your post. I haven't reloaded any ammo I guess that has been crimped. I have deprimed some 556 that is labeled nato, but no Hornady.
 
I need too pay more attention, sorry! 300bo not 556. I checked my 300bo cases and none are Hornady, so the ones I do have are all of the same brand and none are crimped, just sealed.
 
The final: Finished firing all the Hornady ammo. Punched out the primers cleaned and tried priming. Some primed with a little extra effort so I kept those. The cases that took extra pressure and still didn't prime. Well, the cases were crushed and put in the scrap bin. I wasn't about to go through all the effort of reaming and re-reaming to get them primed. I have 200 Winchesters. Fired 50 of them and they accepted a primer with little effort. About the same as a new unprimed case.
I shall avoid the Hornady and press on with the SIG and WIN.
 
I don't have any Hornady 300bo ammo, but I'm glad you got closure! Kind of unfair too learn the hard way! When in doubt call before buying I guess?
 
If I'm going for reload purposes I would hate spending that kind of money! Just like the Rp and Speer cases having a smaller flash hole, but Hornady sent me 2 smaller deprimming pins and fixed the problem! How much did you pay for the sig cases each?
 
Sorry to join in so late on a private thread, but as I’ve just cleaned, cut, trimmed, deburred, and primed many hundreds of 300 Blackout cases I thought it was thread appropriate. If it can be done to a case (except firing) I did it this week.

I don’t like cutting primer pockets. I also prefer to wet tumble so as to avoid scraping out primer pockets. But how to removed a crimp without setting off primers while seating (yep, I did that once)?

Hornady makes both a progressive crimp swaging tool, and a single stage swager. I have the Hornady Lock and Load Classic single stage press, so I bought the primer pocket swaging tool...and am so glad that I did. My new 300 BLK brass is restricted to Sig and Norma. All of my Hornady brass is from subsonic ammo that I saved the brass. I haven’t noticed any tightness in Hornady primer pockets, nor has any of my Hornady brass had crimped primers. S&B - yes, some Aguila, some Armscor, and of course, lots of .223 and 5.56 cases that I’ve cut down.

Regardless, even an overly tight pocket can be passed through the swaging die, and I’ve done it to hundreds of cases. It makes for amazingly smooth seating of primers.

I know brass is fairly cheap...and even cheaper when you can scrounge it off the range, but I still feel that the less I touch the primer pocket, the longer I may be able to reuse it!
 
markr6754 said:
Sorry to join in so late on a private thread, but as I’ve just cleaned, cut, trimmed, deburred, and primed many hundreds of 300 Blackout cases I thought it was thread appropriate. If it can be done to a case (except firing) I did it this week.

I don’t like cutting primer pockets. I also prefer to wet tumble so as to avoid scraping out primer pockets. But how to removed a crimp without setting off primers while seating (yep, I did that once)?

Hornady makes both a progressive crimp swaging tool, and a single stage swager. I have the Hornady Lock and Load Classic single stage press, so I bought the primer pocket swaging tool...and am so glad that I did. My new 300 BLK brass is restricted to Sig and Norma. All of my Hornady brass is from subsonic ammo that I saved the brass. I haven’t noticed any tightness in Hornady primer pockets, nor has any of my Hornady brass had crimped primers. S&B - yes, some Aguila, some Armscor, and of course, lots of .223 and 5.56 cases that I’ve cut down.

Regardless, even an overly tight pocket can be passed through the swaging die, and I’ve done it to hundreds of cases. It makes for amazingly smooth seating of primers.

I know brass is fairly cheap...and even cheaper when you can scrounge it off the range, but I still feel that the less I touch the primer pocket, the longer I may be able to reuse it!
Click to expand...
That's my feelings too. When I'm removing metal from a case I am degrading the structure. So, if I have to cut and trim and chop on a case, I don't. I crush it and put it in the scrap bin. I buy new 300BO and prefer the NEW not remade.
Any of my brass gives me the slightest issue it's outta here.

PS: Not a private thread.... glad you jumped in.
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
I don't have any Hornady 300bo ammo, but I'm glad you got closure! Kind of unfair too learn the hard way! When in doubt call before buying I guess?
Click to expand...
I like to buy a box or two of factory to shoot and take a couple apart and see what makes them tick
 
markr6754 said:
Sorry to join in so late on a private thread, but as I’ve just cleaned, cut, trimmed, deburred, and primed many hundreds of 300 Blackout cases I thought it was thread appropriate. If it can be done to a case (except firing) I did it this week.

I don’t like cutting primer pockets. I also prefer to wet tumble so as to avoid scraping out primer pockets. But how to removed a crimp without setting off primers while seating (yep, I did that once)?

Hornady makes both a progressive crimp swaging tool, and a single stage swager. I have the Hornady Lock and Load Classic single stage press, so I bought the primer pocket swaging tool...and am so glad that I did. My new 300 BLK brass is restricted to Sig and Norma. All of my Hornady brass is from subsonic ammo that I saved the brass. I haven’t noticed any tightness in Hornady primer pockets, nor has any of my Hornady brass had crimped primers. S&B - yes, some Aguila, some Armscor, and of course, lots of .223 and 5.56 cases that I’ve cut down.

Regardless, even an overly tight pocket can be passed through the swaging die, and I’ve done it to hundreds of cases. It makes for amazingly smooth seating of primers.

I know brass is fairly cheap...and even cheaper when you can scrounge it off the range, but I still feel that the less I touch the primer pocket, the longer I may be able to reuse it!
Click to expand...
Like Sarge said, "It's not a private thread " we seem too be for awhile the only 300bo relosders! If you can see threads, they are open too all! Just join in and converse!
 
I love reloading the 300BO as I have longed for a pistol that had Spire Point bullets.
I have all my cases stuffed now. 400+
Have another 300 BO cases on the way. Once they are loaded I'll be good to hit the
range.
 
This is the only long gun round that I load. Until reading about this cartridge I had no, as in zero interest in ARs, but now, I’ve assembled 5 of them (2 300 BLK, 2 458 Socom, 1 .223 Wylde), and have a 6th in process, and a 7th planned. I don’t want to hijack a thread, so...back on topic.

I’m stuck, at the moment, as I have no open range to shoot, and a promised “back yard” range nearby hasn’t panned out, so I hesitate loading any more rounds without a means to shoot. That’s why I‘ve concentrated on processing all of my brass.
I have been accumulating a variety of powders along the way, and have a selection of ladders built for:
VV N120 and 150gr Hornady BT FMJ
IMR 4227 w/150gr Hornady BT FMJ
IMR 4198 w/220gr Lapua Scenar L match grade
IMR 4227 w/220gr Lapua Scenar L match grade
CFE BLK w/220gr Lapua Scenar L match grade

I could always load up some test loads with my other powders: H-110, VV N110
I also have a bottle of VV N130...but I made a mistake ordering it...I wanted N110 and N120, but when I ordered I put N120 and N130 in the cart. Once it arrived I saw my mistake and bought the N110 on the next go...and now I have some super expensive fire starter or fertilizer. I’m not about to buy a new gun so that I can load with the N130.
 
This is me issuing a sincere apology to SMSgtRod for being Mr. Liarpants. I’ve just finished all of my .300 BLK brass prep, including setting primers into another 200 cases. Very motivated as my small rifle MAGNUM primers arrived today.

So, my final step I decided to sort my brass by headstamp. As I did, I discovered about 75-80 cases that still had crimped primer pockets (including some that I wasn‘t sati with my first effort.

Hornady and Aguila 300 Blackout brass were all crimped. Sig, S&B, and Armscor were not. Of the .223 Rem cases I’d converted, all of the Speer, Federal, Lake City, and military brass was crimped. G.F.L, Frontier, and PMC were not crimped, nor was Norma.

My surprise was finding that the S&B .300 Blk brass was NOT crimped. The primers were sealed, but not crimped.

Anyway...since I am so loose with the truth I suggest that you force me to double check the next time I report on my experience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top