testtest

Alternative to brass casings

nope, i said it before, i'll say it again, i'll have no confidence that there won't be any chipped pieces, or "melted" remnants that will get into the rifling, or in the chamber upon ejection, maybe even getting onto the feed ramp.

i'll let others be testers.

that, and they cannot be reloaded.
 
Pitdogg2 said:
That was ballsy!
Click to expand...
Ballsy? Everyone I talk with (gun shop guys) tell me to try out .40 in my 10mm and that it should run fine. The alum-cases didn't have a hiccup. Oddly, I could feel no noticeable recoil difference between these Blazer .40S&W 180 grain with either the S&B or Magtech 180 grain 10mm I usually shoot at ranges. More evidence of the light loading for both brands of range ammo I guess...This is totally subjective, admittedly. I have not, and do not intend to buy and shoot the hot 10mm stuff. My 10 is not a normal defense gun for me. It's a range toy.
 
I saw a brief interview with the owner of this company on Tucker the other night. Just a part of a larger interview. He brought up a couple of points about this ammo that are worth noting. Maybe not for everyone, especially you re-loaders out there, but valid points none the less. What I saw him address was mostly in regard to the military. I think he’s trying to get a military contract for this ammo.

One point is that it is much lighter than brass. Makes it much easier for the troops to carry and gives them the ability to carry more. Valid point IMO.

The other is in regard to the brass in general. Brass is a derivative of copper. A precious metal. Who mines for copper all over the world? Yep - China. Apparently, a huge percentage of the materials that are used to make brass casings are sourced from China. Not only is this enriching our enemy, but it is also a national security issue. If China decided to cut us or countries who produce brass casings for us, off from purchasing copper and brass, we’d be up ****’s creek in terms of providing ammunition to our soldiers.

While I agree it’s probably too early to tell how effective these casings will be, it’s not a bad idea to look for alternatives to free us up from depending on China for our defense needs. And these will be manufactured right here in the good old USA. I say we at least give them a shot, unless you re-load. But there’s a lot more people out there who shoot and don’t reload than those who do…
 
Jfal said:
Ballsy? Everyone I talk with (gun shop guys) tell me to try out .40 in my 10mm and that it should run fine. The alum-cases didn't have a hiccup. Oddly, I could feel no noticeable recoil difference between these Blazer .40S&W 180 grain with either the S&B or Magtech 180 grain 10mm I usually shoot at ranges. More evidence of the light loading for both brands of range ammo I guess...This is totally subjective, admittedly. I have not, and do not intend to buy and shoot the hot 10mm stuff. My 10 is not a normal defense gun for me. It's a range toy.
Click to expand...
Usually shooting 38spl in a 357mag isn't an issue. Also try 357sig in a 40s&w.................I did by accident :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:unsure:. At least it wasn't a 300bo in a 556 barrel. When I shot something seemed strange, so I found the 357sig case with the bottleneck stretched out and looking like a 40. At 50 yards I still hit the target (luck of the draw I guess).
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
Usually shooting 38spl in a 357mag isn't an issue. Also try 357sig in a 40s&w.................I did by accident :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:unsure:. At least it wasn't a 300bo in a 556 barrel. When I shot something seemed strange, so I found the 357sig case with the bottleneck stretched out and looking like a 40. At 50 yards I still hit the target (luck of the draw I guess).
Click to expand...
While I have not personally taken the measurements, everyone I have read or spoken with, including reps at gun stores, tell me the 10mm Auto and .40 S&W are exactly the same in bullet dimensions and casing diameters...it is only a shorter brass case...and most 10mm can fire .40 if the gun can cycle the shorter cartridge (which can cause cycling issues with the magazines, ejectors/extractors and feed ramp variables in design). So I tried it, and mine does just fine, even with the crappy alum casing...Since there are others here who have the 10mm Ronin, I thought some might find the experience useful. .40 is currently about $.15 to $.20 cheaper/round on average than the cheapest 10mm ammo.
 
Jfal said:
While I have not personally taken the measurements, everyone I have read or spoken with, including reps at gun stores, tell me the 10mm Auto and .40 S&W are exactly the same in bullet dimensions and casing diameters...it is only a shorter brass case...and most 10mm can fire .40 if the gun can cycle the shorter cartridge (which can cause cycling issues with the magazines, ejectors/extractors and feed ramp variables in design). So I tried it, and mine does just fine, even with the crappy alum casing...Since there are others here who have the 10mm Ronin, I thought some might find the experience useful. .40 is currently about $.15 to $.20 cheaper/round on average than the cheapest 10mm ammo.
Click to expand...
Thanks to the 40 having a lower pressure helps out . I haven't tried it in a semi gun, but they're revolver friendly (so I'm told).
 
Jfal said:
Ballsy? Everyone I talk with (gun shop guys) tell me to try out .40 in my 10mm and that it should run fine. The alum-cases didn't have a hiccup. Oddly, I could feel no noticeable recoil difference between these Blazer .40S&W 180 grain with either the S&B or Magtech 180 grain 10mm I usually shoot at ranges. More evidence of the light loading for both brands of range ammo I guess...This is totally subjective, admittedly. I have not, and do not intend to buy and shoot the hot 10mm stuff. My 10 is not a normal defense gun for me. It's a range toy.
Click to expand...

Look up why headspacing is important.

Then look up how your pistol headspaces.

You’ll hopefully learn why it’s a very, very bad idea.

And the gun shop mavens are rarely a good source of solid information; I’ve heard more regurgitated, completely wrong crap come out of the mouths of “gun shop guys” than probably anywhere else.

As I’ve said elsewhere—it’s your face and hands, man…up to you if you think they’re important.
 
HansGruber said:
Look up why headspacing is important.

Then look up how your pistol headspaces.

You’ll hopefully learn why it’s a very, very bad idea.

And the gun shop mavens are rarely a good source of solid information; I’ve heard more regurgitated, completely wrong crap come out of the mouths of “gun shop guys” than probably anywhere else.

As I’ve said elsewhere—it’s your face and hands, man…up to you if you think they’re important.
Click to expand...
Thank you !!
Glad to know a few of use are firing on all cylinders.
 
HansGruber said:
Look up why headspacing is important.

Then look up how your pistol headspaces.

You’ll hopefully learn why it’s a very, very bad idea.

And the gun shop mavens are rarely a good source of solid information; I’ve heard more regurgitated, completely wrong crap come out of the mouths of “gun shop guys” than probably anywhere else.

As I’ve said elsewhere—it’s your face and hands, man…up to you if you think they’re important.
Click to expand...
The "gun shop guys" include 2 professional gunsmiths. When I reference gun shop guys, I mean guys who are smith professionals, gun shop salesmen, and generally guys who have more experience than I, including my local Smith and Wesson regional sales rep and several shop owners with whom this exact topic has come up. Thanks for your concern.
 
Jfal said:
The "gun shop guys" include 2 professional gunsmiths. When I reference gun shop guys, I mean guys who are smith professionals, gun shop salesmen, and generally guys who have more experience than I, including my local Smith and Wesson regional sales rep and several shop owners with whom this exact topic has come up. Thanks for your concern.
Click to expand...
Well you do what you want it's a semi free country.
The difference is 38/357 headspace on the case rim.
40/10 headspace on the mouth of the cartridge. You're trusting that extractor an awful lot to hold that cartridge in place instead of the case mouth on the front if the cylinder.
Bad things will eventually happen.
Good luck.
 
Jfal said:
The "gun shop guys" include 2 professional gunsmiths. When I reference gun shop guys, I mean guys who are smith professionals, gun shop salesmen, and generally guys who have more experience than I, including my local Smith and Wesson regional sales rep and several shop owners with whom this exact topic has come up. Thanks for your concern.
Click to expand...
Like I said…your face & hands.

Only you can decide how important they are to you.
 
Pitdogg2 said:
Well you do what you want it's a semi free country.
The difference is 38/357 headspace on the case rim.
40/10 headspace on the mouth of the cartridge. You're trusting that extractor an awful lot to hold that cartridge in place instead of the case mouth on the front if the cylinder.
Bad things will eventually happen.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Also unlike the 38/357 was revolver based compared to the 40/10 that was designed for semi's. I would have to check the taper at the mouth and see what the possibilities would be. If the 40 at case length is smaller than the 10 (@ 40 case length)then by design it would not be safe (unproper sealing at case mouth). Revolvers are a different animal!
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
Some reports of the 10 state headspring is on the base and others state mouth.
Click to expand...
I'll assume you mean headspace, revolvers are a rimed cartridge. Therefore headspace on the rim, like all rimmed cartridges I'm aware of. 40/10 mm are rimless, they have no way of head spacing on the rim. Rimless cartridges headspace on the mouth or shoulder. 40/10mm have no shoulder, sooo that leaves case mouth. So just like .380 which is 2mm shorter than 9mm I've had no factory included directions that say it is "safe" to shoot .380's in 9mm handguns, I've also not had any factory directions say it is safe to shoot .40 Caliber in 10mm handguns. NONE! As far as I know there's not one rimless pistol cartridge that can headspace on the rim.
 
Pitdogg2 said:
I'll assume you mean headspace, revolvers are a rimed cartridge. Therefore headspace on the rim, like all rimmed cartridges I'm aware of. 40/10 mm are rimless, they have no way of head spacing on the rim. Rimless cartridges headspace on the mouth or shoulder. 40/10mm have no shoulder, sooo that leaves case mouth. So just like .380 which is 2mm shorter than 9mm I've had no factory included directions that say it is "safe" to shoot .380's in 9mm handguns, I've also not had any factory directions say it is safe to shoot .40 Caliber in 10mm handguns. NONE! As far as I know there's not one rimless pistol cartridge that can headspace on the rim.
Click to expand...
When doing this on my phone lots get mistyped/spell incorrected, so bear with me. Yes, headspace not headspring. I've read in multiple places from different sources that the 10mm headspaces on case mouth and rim/base. So knowing which is correct I can't say for sure. The 40 does headspace off the mouth, yes. It might be hot and miss on semi operation using 40 in a 10? I wonder if anyone has shot 38spl in a 357mag semi (magnum research or other semi's)? A different, but possibly safe operation?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top