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Are 1911 Handguns Still Popular?

RickAnderson said:
They are, definitely never run into the problem of hunting to get the slide stop pin through the barrel link or scratching the frame trying to get the slide stop installed against the detent or the problem of trying to get the spring from outside the slide on the spring guide inside the slide.
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Yeah, you pretty much nailed it!
 
RickAnderson said:
Every gun collection needs a 1911.

It was the first pistol I ever shot. And I agree, other pistols in smaller calibers would probably be better to start shooting with, its not like you can't start with a 1911 and still learn to shoot.

While it be wrong to say a 1911 is unreliable, a lot of advancements with newer pistols will make them more reliable. As well, since the 1911, like the AR-15 is well past its patents and its design is now considered public domain, that plus it popularity is why just about every manufacturer makes their own 1911 and AR-15. So you've got some cheap 1911's out there that are probably less reliable.

If you've only ever field stripped modern pistols, you're in for a surprise field stripping the 1911.
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In that you can detail strip a (true) mil-spec 1911 with no tools?

Let’s see you do that with a Glock or XD…;)
 
HansGruber said:
In that you can detail strip a (true) mil-spec 1911 with no tools?

Let’s see you do that with a Glock or XD…;)
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I have an XD-M that I am going to Cerakote and mount a Red Dot, so I sent the slide out to be cut and stripped it ahead of time, cause I'm just going to cerakote it myself when it comes back.

I had to build my own special tool with a paint can opener to remove the extractor. BUT, on the other hand, the XD-M's leaf spring extractor will never clock which is a weakness on the 1911.

While the XD-M can be stripped completely without that many tools, it is also just complex enough with lots of little torsion springs, even two little torsion springs that one goes inside the other. A 1911, you can strip it and re-assemble from memory, the XD-M which I have totally stripped, but have not tried to re-assemble yet, I am convinced I will not get it back together correctly without the reference video I looked up.

Watched a video on how to detail strip a FNX-45, since I have one. That fire-control assembly, nope, ain't going to touch that.... ...and that is one good thing, it can be removed modularly... ....so you could detail strip an FNX-45 short of the fire control assembly you leave together, just take it out... ....pulling the rails require carefully spreading the polymer frame
 
RickAnderson said:
I have an XD-M that I am going to Cerakote and mount a Red Dot, so I sent the slide out to be cut and stripped it ahead of time, cause I'm just going to cerakote it myself when it comes back.

I had to build my own special tool with a paint can opener to remove the extractor. BUT, on the other hand, the XD-M's leaf spring extractor will never clock which is a weakness on the 1911.

While the XD-M can be stripped completely without that many tools, it is also just complex enough with lots of little torsion springs, even two little torsion springs that one goes inside the other. A 1911, you can strip it and re-assemble from memory, the XD-M which I have totally stripped, but have not tried to re-assemble yet, I am convinced I will not get it back together correctly without the reference video I looked up.

Watched a video on how to detail strip a FNX-45, since I have one. That fire-control assembly, nope, ain't going to touch that.... ...and that is one good thing, it can be removed modularly... ....so you could detail strip an FNX-45 short of the fire control assembly you leave together, just take it out... ....pulling the rails require carefully spreading the polymer frame
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Properly fitted 1911 extractors don’t clock.

Just sayin’…
 
southtex said:
I will admit to being a shooter of 1911's and own 7 but not a gunsmith. What is a detail strip
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Stripping it down to the point every single part is dis-assembled, not a field strip for cleaning, every single part disassembled.

Sights of course are exempt, no need to punch them out to state you've done a detailed strip.

The 1911, all you need is empty .45 case to use the rim as a screwdriver for the grip screws, after that you can use other parts for a punch for pins, which honestly you only need to punch out the mainspring housing pin, that has a detent on it, so you're not even driving it out, more like giving it a shot to get it past the detent.
 
HayesGreener said:
Pro Tip: When disassembling outdoors, have extra spring plug on hand. Learn the "armorer's crawl" for finding launched spring plugs. Indoors, why do they make the parts the same color as the carpet in classrooms?
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Firing pin is the worst than the recoil spring plug, that sucker can launch if you're not careful. Do it indoors, although the firing pin might make a mark in the ceiling if you loose control of it.
 
Annihilator said:
In my 30 + years shooting and owning 1911’s , I have never tore it down completely, over kill for me, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, now if it was dropped in mud/water and such I could see doing it, but otherwise, not needed, mine still run great.
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A couple of mine have been stripped down by the guy working on them, but I have never completely stripped one.
 
Like this. Now if I could just remember how to put it back together...
 

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Annihilator said:
In my 30 + years shooting and owning 1911’s , I have never tore it down completely, over kill for me, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, now if it was dropped in mud/water and such I could see doing it, but otherwise, not needed, mine still run great.
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Bassbob said:
A couple of mine have been stripped down by the guy working on them, but I have never completely stripped one.
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I was really itching to do a 80% frame build from scratch... ....so as a challenge to see if I was up for it, I did a detailed strip like the video and put it all back together again.... ....after all the work putting together two 1911's from parts from all different sources, I can assemble them with my eyes closed.....

I also wanted a M45A1, when I started the 1911 builds and they were not available anywhere for a reasonable price, so I made my own... ....I actually did a CAD drawing of the block and had a prototyping company 3d metal print them for me, there is a min order price, so I had to have two made to meet the min order of $100, so the 2nd has the rail block also.... ....I epoxied them on, still not a hint of coming loose....
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The 2nd is a RIA double stack frame, pretty much a copy of the Para P-14...

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3 shot groups at 25 yards, those are 1" grids
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RickAnderson said:
Every gun collection needs a 1911.

It was the first pistol I ever shot. And I agree, other pistols in smaller calibers would probably be better to start shooting with, its not like you can't start with a 1911 and still learn to shoot.

While it be wrong to say a 1911 is unreliable, a lot of advancements with newer pistols will make them more reliable. As well, since the 1911, like the AR-15 is well past its patents and its design is now considered public domain, that plus it popularity is why just about every manufacturer makes their own 1911 and AR-15. So you've got some cheap 1911's out there that are probably less reliable.

If you've only ever field stripped modern pistols, you're in for a surprise field stripping the 1911.
Click to expand...
At the risk of having pies thrown at me from Glock partisans 😮😛; I’ve found it much easier to get the slide off of both the 1911’s (.22lr and 9mm) than the Glock 19 Mod 3 I first got and eventually sold to my son

I simply could not pull down on that ridged lever; I struggled to pull the slide back slightly, then pull down - a tool I got from the GlockStore helped somewhat, but I still struggled (I admit it could just be me). I will say that a Beretta 92FS is very easy to takedown

The ATI GSG 1911 .22lr does require a hex tool to unscrew one of the pins, and I’ve invested in a 1911 bushing wrench for the 9mm’s - but I found the Glock harder to deal with; once the slide was off, it was not too bad
 
yattwood said:
At the risk of having pies thrown at me from Glock partisans 😮😛; I’ve found it much easier to get the slide off of both the 1911’s (.22lr and 9mm) than the Glock 19 Mod 3 I first got and eventually sold to my son

I simply could not pull down on that ridged lever; I struggled to pull the slide back slightly, then pull down - a tool I got from the GlockStore helped somewhat, but I still struggled (I admit it could just be me). I will say that a Beretta 92FS is very easy to takedown

The ATI GSG 1911 .22lr does require a hex tool to unscrew one of the pins, and I’ve invested in a 1911 bushing wrench for the 9mm’s - but I found the Glock harder to deal with; once the slide was off, it was not too bad
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I have encountered a number of students who have trouble with this.
To disassemble the Glock easily, after safely releasing the trigger, put the muzzle crown down on a cushioned flat surface and push. It will move the slide back a fraction taking pressure off the spring. Push down on one side of the takedown lever and while holding the lever down lift the muzzle and the spring pressure will hold the lever in this cockeyed position. Now continuing to hold the lever down, use your thumb to push down the other side of the latch and the slide will pop off. No tools required. Trade Glock in on a 1911
 
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