Best gun oil?

[SimonRL]

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WD-40 approved!

Ugghhhh, that guy’s back…

 

[Annihilator]

Ugghhhh, that guy’s back…

 

[Pitdogg2]

I have to say I have never used Mobil 1 or any motor oil, but that's not to say I wouldn't. I can say this. Once upon a time Bassbob was a manager of a Jiffy Lube. I did a little experiment using several brand name oils. Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State full synthetic and Castrol full synthetic. I took soup cans ( cleaned) and filled each of them with one of these oils. Then I took a flathead screwdriver ( minus the handle) and got it red hot with an acetylene torch and stuck it in each one of the cans. Only one of them did the oil not bake on to the screwdriver. The Castrol just rolled right off the red hot screwdriver. Since then it's the only oil I use in my (Gas) vehicles.

So I wonder if Castrol might be a suitable choice?

Only oil I've used in my vehicles since 1982. I now only use the Castrol synthetic titanium with Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer.

 

[Belt Fed]

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Dudes sayin, "Scwu Yu Fweedoms"

 

[javbike]

I use Wilson combat oil for years works for me

 

[Bassbob]

I use Wilson combat oil for years works for me

I've been using them for maybe a year or so and I like them a lot. Specifically on 1911s and ARs.

 

[Biggfoot44]

I've been using plain old Hoppe's oil for more than 50 years. Never a problem.
Been using #9 to clean with all that time too.
So what makes all this new fangled stuff better?

Since you asked :

There are a bevy of standardized engineering test standards dealing with resistance and coefficients of friction, in various contexts , so if dig deep enough , it's facts and not speculation and hype .

Greatly oversimplified- The modern stuff can Potentially be " slippery-er " than old school dead Dinosaurs .

Modern Stuff can Potentially function as needed at greater range of temperature extremes . Both heat generated by firing , and below zero ambient Temps.

Modern Stuff can Potentially keep more " crud " in suspension, and less prone to forming hard sludge .

Modern Stuff that is applied in an evaporative carrier that dries to leave a dry lubricant film can Potentially be less susceptible to ambient dirt and sand , or firing residue .


Most of the time , the differences aren't critical . ( Except for the temperature thing . If your hunting in below zero ( F) , and congealed conventional lube slows down the firing pin enough that the gun doesn't go bang , that's an immeadate problem )

All of that said - Any lube is better than no lube . Most everything will work acceptably well, if there's enough , and it's fresh . There are a plethora of products nominally intended for other applications , that work as well or better than gun specific branded . No one product or product line is " best " in every factor .


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Cleaning :

Combined Cleaner / Lubricants inherently can not be excellent at both . But yes , products that do one thing reasonably well , and a little bit of the other , can indeed be handy and very useful in your range bag , or otherwise on the go .

Copper Specific cleaners can indeed be amazing at removing copper from bbls . ( Albeit usually very mediocre at removing generic powder fouling or lubrication)

The foaming products that you spray in the Bbl and let sit to work , can work very well . Doing all or most of the cleaning by chemistry, instead of repeated brushing , or zillion patches , reduces the wear / damage to bore , throat , and crown from less than ideal cleaning rod technique .