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Bought an M1A, Now What?

Keep things simple.

Don't load it up with too much optics. Use a quality optics mount & not the SA ones.

Learn the platforms' idiosyncrasies.

Learn to properly lube & maintain it.

Run ammo made for it, and not hunting loads without a adjustable gas plug.

 
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Field strip, clean, grease and shoot a few hundred rounds using iron sights, then clean & lube again. Confirm reliable operation, and make sure that you are very good with the factory iron sights before considering any modifications / upgrades. I see no need for an adjustable gas plug... the factory self adjusting gas system works really well for me.

When it comes to modifications and upgrades you will have many to choose from, and I have tried most of them.

These are my favorites.

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To put a few things in perspective, having owned (still do) and used M1As, and M1 Garands, since the 80's, with some use in competition, I'm not ant-M1A but look at each platforms pluses & minuses.

The use of an adjustable gas plug in either is one of an on-going difference of opinion amongst those with a lot of mileage with both. But, being 90+ yr. old operating systems (The M14 being an M1 variant) folks new to these platform may not know their idiosyncrasies.

As in other threads have said...

"It's all about what you can send down the tube without destroying the delivery system."

"Neither the M1 nor the M14 system will tolerate excessive port pressures without hurting something."


The M14's White Gas System is designed for 12,500 KPSI, CUP. +/- 2KPSI (max 14,500 CUP). The port is about 14-1/8 inches from the bolt face, or about 12.5 inches of bullet travel down-bore. The port pressures for the Garand on the high end of the envelope are about the same.

That being said, also..."the M-14 White expansion and cutoff system is far superior to the Original Garand Gas System." And..."The White Expansion and Cutoff system (M14/M1A) is more adaptable to variations in Gas Pressure (Less likely to bend an op rod with higher velocity Loading's) than the Long Stoke Gas Piston system used in the M1 Garand."

In competition, using non-mil-spec ammo, the "Army MTU did several things to lower port pressures on the M14s. (1) They cut slits with wafer discs in Dremel tools length ways down the large diameter of the piston. (2) They are drilled extremely small holes in the end of the gas plug."
There are second-hand reports of receivers cracking from bolt impact, but these also at least hint or openly admit hot-rodding the loads with heavier bullets. ...from those who shot hundreds and even thousands of 190-grain bullets at 2400 or so FPS from the M14-type that you can get excessive wear and battering on the rear of the op rod and the bolt impact area in the receiver. Excessive port pressure loads move attempted extraction too early in the firing cycle, resulting in rim lift and occasional failures to extract (the empty gets withdrawn and then put back in the chamber). The bolt almost always got far back enough to cock the hammer.


All this being said, if one chooses not to watch out what one feeds either the M1A or M1 Garand, problems can occur. A reasonable option for both platforms is an adjustable gas plug that once adjusted to whatever non-spec ammo you want to use, will still function fine with the ammo that either were designed to run.

So, with those new to the platform look for ammo that states it's made as mil-spec for either platform.

The bottom line is it's your responsibility to get the right ammo for either rifle, and if you don't blame SA if something goes south since we all take risks every day.

My .02

Bonus - Some History


BTW - I may have one of my standard's rebuilt into a SEI Crazy Horse' M21A5 DMR, as per this TAL review.


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Yes you can set up a dedicated competition rifle for very specific conditions and needs, but you do so at your own risk. Ron Smith of Crazy Horse fame will tell you that an adjustable gas plug is not needed on an M14 battle rifle... I have been shooting Crazy Horse rifles since 2005, and all of them receive a steady diet of accurate mil-spec ammunition resulting in zero failures. I added a suppressor in 2006... zero gas system modifications, zero failures.

06shoot-MK14.Mod0.jpg
 
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I bought my M1A Standard rifle the day I found out Obama was going to be President. I call it my BHO gun.
M1As are truly wonderful rifles. "Lock, Stock, and Barrel." Heavy yes, but SOLID!
Shoot it, clean it, and shoot it some more. That is why we all bought one. They are not "wall hangers!"
 
To put a few things in perspective, having owned (still do) and used M1As, and M1 Garands, since the 80's, with some use in competition, I'm not ant-M1A but look at each platforms pluses & minuses.

The use of an adjustable gas plug in either is one of an on-going difference of opinion amongst those with a lot of mileage with both. But, being 90+ yr. old operating systems (The M14 being an M1 variant) folks new to these platform may not know their idiosyncrasies.

As in other threads have said...

"It's all about what you can send down the tube without destroying the delivery system."

"Neither the M1 nor the M14 system will tolerate excessive port pressures without hurting something."


The M14's White Gas System is designed for 12,500 KPSI, CUP. +/- 2KPSI (max 14,500 CUP). The port is about 14-1/8 inches from the bolt face, or about 12.5 inches of bullet travel down-bore. The port pressures for the Garand on the high end of the envelope are about the same.

That being said, also..."the M-14 White expansion and cutoff system is far superior to the Original Garand Gas System." And..."The White Expansion and Cutoff system (M14/M1A) is more adaptable to variations in Gas Pressure (Less likely to bend an op rod with higher velocity Loading's) than the Long Stoke Gas Piston system used in the M1 Garand."

In competition, using non-mil-spec ammo, the "Army MTU did several things to lower port pressures on the M14s. (1) They cut slits with wafer discs in Dremel tools length ways down the large diameter of the piston. (2) They are drilled extremely small holes in the end of the gas plug."
There are second-hand reports of receivers cracking from bolt impact, but these also at least hint or openly admit hot-rodding the loads with heavier bullets. ...from those who shot hundreds and even thousands of 190-grain bullets at 2400 or so FPS from the M14-type that you can get excessive wear and battering on the rear of the op rod and the bolt impact area in the receiver. Excessive port pressure loads move attempted extraction too early in the firing cycle, resulting in rim lift and occasional failures to extract (the empty gets withdrawn and then put back in the chamber). The bolt almost always got far back enough to cock the hammer.


All this being said, if one chooses not to watch out what one feeds either the M1A or M1 Garand, problems can occur. A reasonable option for both platforms is an adjustable gas plug that once adjusted to whatever non-spec ammo you want to use, will still function fine with the ammo that either were designed to run.

So, with those new to the platform look for ammo that states it's made as mil-spec for either platform.

The bottom line is it's your responsibility to get the right ammo for either rifle, and if you don't blame SA if something goes south since we all take risks every day.

My .02

Bonus - Some History


BTW - I may have one of my standard's rebuilt into a SEI Crazy Horse' M21A5 DMR, as per this TAL review.
The garand is by far less ammo sensitive than an M14.
 
anyone have issues with using the steel cleaning rods? they are all I have ever used, but I am only 76 years old. I see several reviews regarding them as "ruining your rifle barrel". since the rod is attached to a brush, or cleaning patch I don't understand how it might "ruin" my barrel. Have not ruined a barrel yet.
 
anyone have issues with using the steel cleaning rods? they are all I have ever used, but I am only 76 years old. I see several reviews regarding them as "ruining your rifle barrel". since the rod is attached to a brush, or cleaning patch I don't understand how it might "ruin" my barrel. Have not ruined a barrel yet.
The "danger" may be in the rod scratching up the muzzle. You can buy a cheap plastic guide that helps center the rod during bore strokes...I bought several at one time, but the guides tend not to wear out. Excessive wear on the rifling at the muzzle has very bad effects on accuracy. It also helps to pull the brushes and patches only 1 direction, from the chamber to the muzzle. Never push a brush back down the barrel. If you do, the rod will flex under pressure and scratch its way toward the chamber...not good either. I will admit to using brass segmented (I know, blasphemy) cleaning rods primarily, but I only pull brushes from chamber-to-muzzle with a guide. I actually also put a small patch over the end of the rod when pushing toward chamber, then thread on a brush, pull out, repeat. Not perfect, but good enuf for me.

My only steel rods are pistol rods...and they're probably aluminum now that I think about it?
 
The "danger" may be in the rod scratching up the muzzle. You can buy a cheap plastic guide that helps center the rod during bore strokes...I bought several at one time, but the guides tend not to wear out. Excessive wear on the rifling at the muzzle has very bad effects on accuracy. It also helps to pull the brushes and patches only 1 direction, from the chamber to the muzzle. Never push a brush back down the barrel. If you do, the rod will flex under pressure and scratch its way toward the chamber...not good either. I will admit to using brass segmented (I know, blasphemy) cleaning rods primarily, but I only pull brushes from chamber-to-muzzle with a guide. I actually also put a small patch over the end of the rod when pushing toward chamber, then thread on a brush, pull out, repeat. Not perfect, but good enuf for me.

My only steel rods are pistol rods...and they're probably aluminum now that I think about it?
agree with everything you said, I still use my rods sometimes, but lately I'm more than likely to use a bore snake as it seems to work so much better. Put some cleaner on the snake before/after the brush section and clean with that. run a cleaning patch a few times and its good
 
I got mine in Dec ‘87. I was living NW of Chicago at the time, and drove it over to SA for an upgrade to N.M. configuration.

Then I sweated over it for the next few summers shooting Highpower.

Wanna cry? I gave $660 for it. And I wasn’t real happy about it because the price wasn’t the best at the time. It was OK though, and it was the first time I had the money in hand while crossing paths with one.
The N.M. upgrade was $327.

Want more? At one of the Highpower matches, as we waited in line for the range to open, a guy was selling M-14 mags for $5 a pop. Sadly, I only had $15 on me after the match fee.
Funny, I have an M-16 mag story that went about the same way.

More? I bought my 168SMKs from Champion Shooters for $125/1000.

That might all sound good now, but with what I was making at the time, that all took very careful budgeting. I still don’t know how I managed.
 
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