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Cleaning Firearms: Bristling At The Thought?

Good article Bob, one of my downfalls is cleaning of my guns after a range trip.
That is why all my firearms are dishwasher safe!
smile-gun.gif

It makes wiping fingerprints off easy.
This is important in his line of work 😵💣
 
Good stuff there, @BobM and All - and I'd like to highlight something that I think is very, very important for those new or newer to firearms:

The materials used for firearms cleaning are important for different areas, functions and to clean properly and more thoroughly w/o causing damage depending on what application area is at hand. Be very aware that some cleaning implements can cause or lessen damage to some materials and some, like plastics, can dissolve in some cleaning solvents. Or, some harder metals can damage softer metals.

I think you worded that very smartly, @BobM , and I truly hope newcomers to our hobby/sport will read that carefully and give it the weight that it's due.

I think it is very common for those newer to firearms to hold the belief that "white glove" clean is the only way to go - that anything less, some form of damage will occur just from the "dirty" weapon sitting there.

While that's definitely a concern of corrosive primers and in terms of salt-water exposure or in areas of high humidity, the truth is that modern defensive/duty or "service"-grade firearms are extremely durable and robust - and that it's actually easier to damage them from inappropriate...typically overly aggressive (whether it be mechanical or chemical) cleaning.

Proper cleaning isn't just about getting things clean: it's also about doing so without damaging the wood, polymer plastics, metals, and other materials that make up the firearm.
 
I used to be meticulous in complete disassembly/cleaning, no more; clean just enough to keep them operational/reliable.
Why I prefer Stainless and other finishes, the blues just take too much care. Break free and Spray Rem oil is about it, touch of grease on the 11.
Sumpin: if your into Breakfree and Rem oil, u might try Ballistol.
I went over to it recently using their wipes. Great results, safer than most others and it’s been around as long as the 1911s have been (literally made for military use circa 1905 German Army). Worlds first CLP.
 
Great article, Bob! This is probably gonna sound a little weird, but I really enjoy cleaning my guns. I like trying out new brushes, CLP’s, techniques, etc. picked up some good ideas from your post. Thank you for sharing.
… not weird at all.
On a thread some months ago, KillerFord ( I think?) remarked that he enjoyed gun cleaning time. That it was quiet time to think and sort of a Zen thing for him. I agreed completely and still do…
 
Good stuff there, @BobM and All - and I'd like to highlight something that I think is very, very important for those new or newer to firearms:



I think you worded that very smartly, @BobM , and I truly hope newcomers to our hobby/sport will read that carefully and give it the weight that it's due.

I think it is very common for those newer to firearms to hold the belief that "white glove" clean is the only way to go - that anything less, some form of damage will occur just from the "dirty" weapon sitting there.

While that's definitely a concern of corrosive primers and in terms of salt-water exposure or in areas of high humidity, the truth is that modern defensive/duty or "service"-grade firearms are extremely durable and robust - and that it's actually easier to damage them from inappropriate...typically overly aggressive (whether it be mechanical or chemical) cleaning.

Proper cleaning isn't just about getting things clean: it's also about doing so without damaging the wood, polymer plastics, metals, and other materials that make up the firearm.

Thanks, is a good followup reply and reinforcement TSiWRX, sometimes holding off a little is better than cleaning things the wrong or less effective way too.
 
Great article, Bob! This is probably gonna sound a little weird, but I really enjoy cleaning my guns. I like trying out new brushes, CLP’s, techniques, etc. picked up some good ideas from your post. Thank you for sharing.

You're welcome Michael, doesn't really sound odd or weird at all to me. Then you know they're done the way you like them too. Finding ways to make things easier and more effective at the same time helps make them more enjoyable and usually takes less time leaving room for other things.
 
I have some guns that are rarely cleaned, but shot often and others that need to be cleaned frequently. I know which ones to clean and when. I like plastic tooth pics for those nooks and crannies. I have a plethora of cleaning solvents because I look for the next best thing. Most often, it's not. Oddly, the wife's stainless pistols are more difficult to clean than my blued guns. I have no idea why that is. I noticed this weekend they are filthy, so I'll need to get after them.
 
Consumables for gun cleaning or any other use are always a good bet at Harbor Freight. Things like welding wire, torch tips, grinding/cut off wheels, shop rags, band saw blades, etc. I do not use any of their hand tools like wrenches, sockets, etc. At least not for anything I must depend on. On occasion I'll use something simple for a 'one time' use.

They often have close out items from name brands like "Mother's" car cleaner products, certain hand cleaners, greases, even spray paints and finishes. Paint brushes are so-so .... pay your money and take your chances. But even those 'not so good' are cheap enough to just be tossed when your done rather than spending time cleaning them.

Power tools ..... I don't know. I did buy a couple angle grinders and one bench grinder when I set up a small resident's work shop here and so far they've done well. I wouldn't recommend them for a production shop though. Yard/garden tools seem OK for most home owners, but probably not for commercial use.

The bottom line for Harbor Freight is simply this ..... consider your need and how critical it is, then balance that against the possibility of a tool breaking or letting you down at a critical time. Sometimes you'll win, sometimes you won't !!! That's my take. But YMMV! (y)(y)(y)
 
Consumables for gun cleaning or any other use are always a good bet at Harbor Freight. Things like welding wire, torch tips, grinding/cut off wheels, shop rags, band saw blades, etc. I do not use any of their hand tools like wrenches, sockets, etc. At least not for anything I must depend on. On occasion I'll use something simple for a 'one time' use.

They often have close out items from name brands like "Mother's" car cleaner products, certain hand cleaners, greases, even spray paints and finishes. Paint brushes are so-so .... pay your money and take your chances. But even those 'not so good' are cheap enough to just be tossed when your done rather than spending time cleaning them.

Power tools ..... I don't know. I did buy a couple angle grinders and one bench grinder when I set up a small resident's work shop here and so far they've done well. I wouldn't recommend them for a production shop though. Yard/garden tools seem OK for most home owners, but probably not for commercial use.

The bottom line for Harbor Freight is simply this ..... consider your need and how critical it is, then balance that against the possibility of a tool breaking or letting you down at a critical time. Sometimes you'll win, sometimes you won't !!! That's my take. But YMMV! (y)(y)(y)
i bought a "pancake" air compressor, with all the fixin's at Harbor.

works great at blowing out the cleaner when i spray any of my guns innards, and the wheels of my revolvers.

i think that for the "home handyman" Harbor stuff ain't that bad.
 
I have some guns that are rarely cleaned, but shot often and others that need to be cleaned frequently. I know which ones to clean and when. I like plastic tooth pics for those nooks and crannies. I have a plethora of cleaning solvents because I look for the next best thing. Most often, it's not. Oddly, the wife's stainless pistols are more difficult to clean than my blued guns. I have no idea why that is. I noticed this weekend they are filthy, so I'll need to get after them.

May want to try Weiman wipes for stainless steel as a cleaner / protectant? Is a good brand, have used before and it repels dirt, dust and fingerprints too. Good or not, depending on where and how used, will also remove grease.

 
BobM, my issue is primarily baked on carbon, specifically on stainless Ruger Single Sixes in .32 mag. I have multiple cleaners that say they dissolve carbon, but I still end up scrubbing the snot out of them. This is mostly on the outside surfaces of the cylinders. I have more solvents than I can count, so I guess I'm a sucker for the marketing claims.
I'll try these unless someone can come up with something they swear is better.
 
BobM, my issue is primarily baked on carbon, specifically on stainless Ruger Single Sixes in .32 mag. I have multiple cleaners that say they dissolve carbon, but I still end up scrubbing the snot out of them. This is mostly on the outside surfaces of the cylinders. I have more solvents than I can count, so I guess I'm a sucker for the marketing claims.
I'll try these unless someone can come up with something they swear is better.
I have had hood luck with this on my stainless cylinder
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BobM, my issue is primarily baked on carbon, specifically on stainless Ruger Single Sixes in .32 mag. I have multiple cleaners that say they dissolve carbon, but I still end up scrubbing the snot out of them. This is mostly on the outside surfaces of the cylinders. I have more solvents than I can count, so I guess I'm a sucker for the marketing claims.
I'll try these unless someone can come up with something they swear is better.

Usually use Eagle One's - Never Dull wadding on stainless with good overall results for general cleaning and carbon residue on ones here. Has removed old carbon stains from older guns have too. To use: Simply tear off a chunk of cotton batting or wadding and lightly rub. Part of it is waiting for the cleaner to set in to cut the carbon and then wiping down and off. It leaves a clear non drying slightly oily protective finish.

Other people have used Flitz or Mothers metal polishes that they say is good and works as well. Am thinking there's another thread about different cleaners in this forum too. Many auto stores carry mag wheel cleaner / polish that seems to cut brake dust and other residue, mag wheels are another toughy cleaning job sometimes. In some cases something containing citric acid can cut carbon marks as well. Protecting the stainless is another part of it. That's where the cleaner and protectants come into play to help keep carbon marks off longer.

Note: Many of the cleaners / protectants contain or are petroleum based so some basic caution is needed.

Link to never dull:
 
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