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Cleaning methods?

Using a water trap on compressor is best for just about everything. Even filling the tires on your car. Water that gets inside the tire will interfere with linear pressure change with temperature, and the water will help to oxidize and deteriorate the inside of the tire. Dry air is safer, performs better and helps preserves your tires.

The biggest advantage to using nitrogen in tires is simple the methods to provide pure nitrogen assures dry gas going into the tires, while compressed air most methods of supply, while many times cheaper, ends up with water in the compressed air.
Although I believe in the advantage of using nitrogen in tires and the biggest advantage is nitrogen pressure is not affected by temperature changes don’t forget that there still is atmospheric air in the tire when it is mounted on the wheel that is impossible to remove and that air still holds moisture. Now granted it’s not a lot of air or moisture since it’s not under pressure but it is still there.
 
Although I believe in the advantage of using nitrogen in tires and the biggest advantage is nitrogen pressure is not affected by temperature changes don’t forget that there still is atmospheric air in the tire when it is mounted on the wheel that is impossible to remove and that air still holds moisture. Now granted it’s not a lot of air or moisture since it’s not under pressure but it is still there.
Actually I have seen them vacuum tires down then add nitrogen, you'd think the vacuum would pull the bead off the rim, but in the videos I watched, the entire tire collapsed and never pulled off the rim, or purge the tire with nitrogen after mounting before inflating with nitrogen.

Nitrogen is still affect by temperature changes, its just more uniform and predictable than compressed air....
And what really throws off the pressure changes with temperature changes is if water is inside the tire evaporating and condensing with temperature changes....

Air is nearly 80% nitrogen, nitrogen is suppose to have all these advantages in more uniform temperature pressure response, etc, etc.... but honestly for typical cars on the street, its arguably not worth the cost and effort....

I've seen two arguments I think are good, that most of your nitrogen sources will be dry gas, while most of compressed air sources will have moisture in them... ....and that pure nitrogen often goes longer holding the original pressure and not needing topped off as compressed air....

I think that is why you see car manufacturers and even tire shops switching to nitrogen, its assure a longer trouble free experience for the customer.... ...that, and a few customers might think they have to come back to the same tire shop or a dealership to top off their tires with nitrogen, for a premium fee I'm sure.... ....which you can top off a nitrogen filled tire with plain compressed air, no problem...
 
I clean even if I shoot one round it gets clean period everybody has their way and stuff they use it all works I use liberty solvent with Wilson combat action oil and lite oil and t rig grease a little on the rails and finish off with ballistol and use lots of cotton pads and q tips you are done
 
Actually I have seen them vacuum tires down then add nitrogen, you'd think the vacuum would pull the bead off the rim, but in the videos I watched, the entire tire collapsed and never pulled off the rim, or purge the tire with nitrogen after mounting before inflating with nitrogen.
With all due respect…….
Until I see a video of the tire collapsing down without proving that there was no damage to the integrity of the sidewall of the tire I’ll call that bull 💩 the tires on my truck have Kevlar molded into the sidewall of the tire for additional strength and there would be un-repairable damage to the tire if that was done.
 
I use water traps for some things. Painting, sandblasting, plasma cutting, etc..

If I was going to use air to blow out a pistol I think I would just used canned air.
in fact, i have several cans of "canned air", they do great for cleaning my reloading presses, but for the guns, i have never had good luck with that.

which is what made me buy another air compressor, a "lower volume" and less bulky one to use, over my 14 gallon tank, higher amperage one is.
 
With all due respect…….
Until I see a video of the tire collapsing down without proving that there was no damage to the integrity of the sidewall of the tire I’ll call that bull 💩 the tires on my truck have Kevlar molded into the sidewall of the tire for additional strength and there would be un-repairable damage to the tire if that was done.
I don't know if vacuum down a tire would damage it, I see your argument, but I'm not aware of kevlar belts being any more delicate or brittle than steel belts. Distorting tires to much I could see causing damage, at the same time if you've ever mounted tires, especially bigger lower profile tires, which many vehicle have today, the tires are forced, stretched and distorted terribly during mounting and are not damaged.

Sidewalls are designed to bend and flex, cause they do bend and flex constantly as the tire rolls. This why you can't patch the sidewall of a tire and the tire is ruined with any sidewall puncture, it bends and flexes so much the patch will be pulled away from the bend and flex. Its not because sidewalls are so delicate, it because sidewalls can't be repaired. I suppose there is only so much distortion they can take.

I would imagine purging would work well also, you'd just need a thin tube to fit in valve stem with the valve removed that had some space to spare around it, pump in the nitrogen and it forces out the air. Sure it mixes as you pump it in, that is why you pump in more than the actual volume of the tire. Purging has been show to get almost all the old gas out and the tire wouldn't be distorted while you did it.
 
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Wanted to get some opinions of cleaning a Hellcat Pro, particularly about cleaning inside the frame. I'm a little confused and don't want to cause damage to my new investment. I have noticed that there are basically two camps as far as cleaning methods for any handgun.

1. Using barely any cleaner. Use a small amount of cleaner for the barrel then dry brush and wipe everything else down without cleaner. Does this even clean anything?

2. Douse almost every part of the gun with a safe cleaner (Pro Shot Fouling Blaster or real avid fouling blaster), scrub and wipe everything down.

I have added two videos for reference.

1. Using barely any cleaner (actually from the Armory Life)

2. Douse method:

What cleaning method do you guys use?

Thanks.
SOCKSWITHCROCS, as already mentioned their are numerous ways to clean your weapons and it would take several pages to explain my methods. However I would like to suggest to you some products that are exceptional. During my 22 years on a SWAT/Counter Terrorism unit I can tell you I have tried every product you can think of and it finally came down to this. First product is weapon shield that you can get on Amazon. They make a solvent which contains no SARA title 2 solvents and is non-toxic & non-mutagenic. There is also a CLP product very good. You can watch YouTube videos which are very impressive and this product gos head to head with the most popular brands out there. The other products is Kroil oil and JB bore bright. I learned about this combination when I transferred to a sniper position. As you can imagine sniper rifle barrels must be maintained for ultimate performance. I learned of this combination from bench rest shooters who literally shot hole in hole groups. They told me about this combo. Use the Kroil Oil in you barrel to lossen contamination and then put the bore bright which is a light paste on a cleaning patch or other applicator and scrub your barrel it. It will literally turn your patch black with contaminates. Follow up with clean patches with Kroil until you are satisfied. Kroil oil has been around since 1939 and can be used as a cleaner. Brownells sells this combo for $24.99. J-B makes two products, the blue label is a bore non-bedding cleaning compound and the red label is the bore bright compound. I use the bore bright with the Kroil. Copper build up in a sniper rifle is my enemy and the bore bright removes it. You want the rifle grooves to be pristine so the the bullet has complete contact with improves accuracy. Incidentally, you can use this method on all your barrels as copper build is not your friend. I know this may appear over the top but to a sniper our rifle barrel condition is extremely important. I hope this helps watch the weapon shield videos and you decide. TRIAN, BE SMART. THINK TATCICS
 
i'm beginning to think, toss them in the washing machine, on "delicate cycle", and throw in a Tides pod.....maybe some Ivory fabric softener as well, for those really soft hands.
I've seen people put them stripped down in the dishwasher, it does come out rather clean.

Knew a guy that had a ultrasonic cleaner, he would clean all his part in an ultrasonic cleaner. Be careful, some of the cleaning solutions typical for cleaning brass and some bare metals combined with the ultrasonic cleaner have damaged or even removed coatings and parkerizing on the gun parts. The guy I knew used mineral oil in the cleaner with the parts.
 
I've seen people put them stripped down in the dishwasher, it does come out rather clean.

Knew a guy that had a ultrasonic cleaner, he would clean all his part in an ultrasonic cleaner. Be careful, some of the cleaning solutions typical for cleaning brass and some bare metals combined with the ultrasonic cleaner have damaged or even removed coatings and parkerizing on the gun parts. The guy I knew used mineral oil in the cleaner with the parts.
i too have read where some use an ultrasonic cleaner. i will not go as far as that. i think my analbility to clean after every range visit is as far as i want to go.

i pretty much only use the spray cleaner i mentioned above, maybe every 2 nd cleaning, unless the ammo is super dirty, then of course, more often.

yes too, i have read about those that toss them into the dishwasher.....to me, unless one has a "spare" dishwasher in the basement for gun cleaning?

for general health reasons, i'd not recommend that...as one will NEVER know is all the carbon, and lead is rinsed out of that washer.

to me, that just isn't a safe way to clean, using the "family" appliance.
 
Yea, good advice on the dishwasher. While we can argue till we're blue in the face about how it would rinse away and pump out any residues from the firearms while cleaning, gun residues includes heavy metals and carcinogens so basic hygiene says you segregate those things and never risk cross contamination with your food. As well, if you haven't stripped the parts completely down, 100%, most firearms you run the risk of trapped moisture that will start rust.

An ultrasonic cleaner sounds great for cleaning anything, but they are very expensive for anything larger than a hand gun. And as I read, some folks used to aggressive of a cleaning solution did damage the finish on their firearms.
 
I don't know if vacuum down a tire would damage it, I see your argument, but I'm not aware of kevlar belts being any more delicate or brittle than steel belts. Distorting tires to much I could see causing damage, at the same time if you've ever mounted tires, especially bigger lower profile tires, which many vehicle have today, the tires are forced, stretched and distorted terribly during mounting and are not damaged.

Sidewalls are designed to bend and flex, cause they do bend and flex constantly as the tire rolls. This why you can't patch the sidewall of a tire and the tire is ruined with any sidewall puncture, it bends and flexes so much the patch will be pulled away from the bend and flex. Its not because sidewalls are so delicate, it because sidewalls can't be repaired. I suppose there is only so much distortion they can take.

I would imagine purging would work well also, you'd just need a thin tube to fit in valve stem with the valve removed that had some space to spare around it, pump in the nitrogen and it forces out the air. Sure it mixes as you pump it in, that is why you pump in more than the actual volume of the tire. Purging has been show to get almost all the old gas out and the tire wouldn't be distorted while you did it.
I know exactly what a sidewall on a tire is designed to do and low profile tires are stiffer then average because they need to prevent damage to the wheel and the tires bead during impact. There is no way you can prove to me that distorting the tire like that in the video doesn’t damage the integrity of the sidewall and tire in general.
 
SOCKSWITHCROCS, as already mentioned their are numerous ways to clean your weapons and it would take several pages to explain my methods. However I would like to suggest to you some products that are exceptional. During my 22 years on a SWAT/Counter Terrorism unit I can tell you I have tried every product you can think of and it finally came down to this. First product is weapon shield that you can get on Amazon. They make a solvent which contains no SARA title 2 solvents and is non-toxic & non-mutagenic. There is also a CLP product very good. You can watch YouTube videos which are very impressive and this product gos head to head with the most popular brands out there. The other products is Kroil oil and JB bore bright. I learned about this combination when I transferred to a sniper position. As you can imagine sniper rifle barrels must be maintained for ultimate performance. I learned of this combination from bench rest shooters who literally shot hole in hole groups. They told me about this combo. Use the Kroil Oil in you barrel to lossen contamination and then put the bore bright which is a light paste on a cleaning patch or other applicator and scrub your barrel it. It will literally turn your patch black with contaminates. Follow up with clean patches with Kroil until you are satisfied. Kroil oil has been around since 1939 and can be used as a cleaner. Brownells sells this combo for $24.99. J-B makes two products, the blue label is a bore non-bedding cleaning compound and the red label is the bore bright compound. I use the bore bright with the Kroil. Copper build up in a sniper rifle is my enemy and the bore bright removes it. You want the rifle grooves to be pristine so the the bullet has complete contact with improves accuracy. Incidentally, you can use this method on all your barrels as copper build is not your friend. I know this may appear over the top but to a sniper our rifle barrel condition is extremely important. I hope this helps watch the weapon shield videos and you decide. TRIAN, BE SMART. THINK TATCICS
Thank you for the information!
 
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