Keystone19250
SAINT
Thank you.
Thank you.
Never oil the striker or it’s channel, that has to be dry, on any polymer gun, it will gum up and not work like it’s meant to, the owners manual will also state thisSo I went to shoot today, in 5°F with wind. My son is home from the Marine Corps and he has Glock 19 he keeps with me since California won't let him have it, so with limited opportunities to shoot his G19, we decided to try to brave the cold.
This time I brought the firearms inside and had them warmed up before we went out.
My SA XD-M Elite OSP 10mm shot fine, even though I have a few drops of oil in the striker, haven't cleaned it out yet.
Also shot my two 80% Frame 1911 projects. My 2nd one has a very tight slide, but only a few minutes of being exposed 5°F had the slide sticking.
When you load a magazine and drop the slide and it looks like it is moving in slow motion, you know things aren't going to go well. The slide kept short stroking. I'll guess I'll just have to shoot the snot out of this spring and loosen up that slide some....
Thank you.
Never oil the striker or it’s channel, that has to be dry, on any polymer gun, it will gum up and not work like it’s meant to, the owners manual will also state this
Only a very small amount of oil is needed to adequately lubricate moving parts and prevent rust. Accumulation of oil tends to attract dust and dirt which interferes with the safe and reliable functioning of firearm. DO NOT APPLY EXCESS LUBRICATING OIL. DO NOT APPLY OIL OR GREASE TO STRIKER.
On Glocks, dry, clean but no lube, when you do just wipe down the firing pins on 1911’s with a slightly oiled patch, nothing excessive, just sayingOn Pg 56 of the Springfield Armory XD-M Owner's Manual, under the Care and Cleaning Section....
When I was an Instructor Pilot, I used to tell students to go back through the NATOPS (a.k.a. the Manual) periodically, there are things you miss or don't understand, that once you gain some experience you'll understand or catch what you missed earlier...
I should have followed my own advise, I have been oiling my strikers. I've been oil my firing pins on my hammer fired pistols as well. It just seemed common sense to me, that could use lubrication as well....
I have a cleaning spray gun I fill with denatured alcohol, I plan to spray it down the opening in the breech for the firing pin and let it drain out of the other end, that should degrease it and dry it out.
On Pg 56 of the Springfield Armory XD-M Owner's Manual, under the Care and Cleaning Section....
When I was an Instructor Pilot, I used to tell students to go back through the NATOPS (a.k.a. the Manual) periodically, there are things you miss or don't understand, that once you gain some experience you'll understand or catch what you missed earlier...
I should have followed my own advise, I have been oiling my strikers. I've been oil my firing pins on my hammer fired pistols as well. It just seemed common sense to me, that could use lubrication as well....
I have a cleaning spray gun I fill with denatured alcohol, I plan to spray it down the opening in the breech for the firing pin and let it drain out of the other end, that should degrease it and dry it out.
Oh yea, saw the older Gun Scrubber eat an S&W Sigma frame when I was still at my sheriffs dept……IME DNA ( I have S tons of it) is great for drying things out, but not very good for cleaning. It's ok for cleaning if you can get to the part and wipe it down, but as for a simply spray and degrease you will be much better off with Brake Clean.
However I would avoid getting Brake Clean on polymer.
I don't know if BC is safe for polymer, but I would err on the side of caution for sure. I know it does a fantastic job on metal. I use it with great success degreasing before cold bluing.Oh yea, saw the older Gun Scrubber eat an S&W Sigma frame when I was still at my sheriffs dept……
I wouldn’t try it on polymer myself, with my luck the gun would probably disappearI don't know if BC is safe for polymer, but I would err on the side of caution for sure. I know it does a fantastic job on metal. I use it with great success degreasing before cold bluing.
There is Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner that is suppose to be corrosive free, but still, I don't risk it, perhaps on pure metal and only the non-chlorinated variety.IME DNA ( I have S tons of it) is great for drying things out, but not very good for cleaning. It's ok for cleaning if you can get to the part and wipe it down, but as for a simply spray and degrease you will be much better off with Brake Clean.
However I would avoid getting Brake Clean on polymer.
There is Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner that is suppose to be corrosive free, but still, I don't risk it, perhaps on pure metal and only the non-chlorinated variety.
I have tested Denatured Alcohol on Polymer and used it several times since then, its safe for polymer....
Denatured Alcohol, by definition has to have a chemical added to it that creates a horrible taste to prevent people from drinking it.... ....the stuff I has says it has a mild solvent added to it... ....so it might be possible some denatured alcohols might have something added to it that would be bad for polymer, so do a test before slather it all over if you decide to try it...
Sure, there may be better degreasers, but Denatured Alcohol seems to work great and very little risk of damage..
Denatured alcohol will evaporate off polymer spotlessly, but parkerizing and some PVD finishes it will dry them out so bad it will highlight even the slightest trace of left behind dirt or make a cloudy appearance in the Parkerizing. But, just a quick rub down with oil restores the finish to exactly what it should be...
Simple Green is a good degreaser and carbon lifter, but it contains water and is bad for aluminum if lays on the surface... ...it also is safe on polymer, but if I use it on metal I "Believe" the safest way to do that is flush the simple green away after scrubbing, that is where I got the denatured alcohol...
Usually between shootings I'm just ragging out/wiping down the parts, doing the bore brush and patches with bore solvent and then run an oil patch through the bore and then re-lube the pistol... ...just have to stop lubing the striker...