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For FORD owners that don't know

i had followed this problem for a few years myself. some suspension company came up with a solution, i think it had to do with a new steering stabilizer (shock absorber)

only 1 video, but the one i had seen a couple of years ago, could be far down the google search list.

 
i had followed this problem for a few years myself. some suspension company came up with a solution, i think it had to do with a new steering stabilizer (shock absorber)

only 1 video, but the one i had seen a couple of years ago, could be far down the google search list.

Ok not sure who that guy is in the video but he has no idea what he is talking about. First the shock is not a steering stabilizer it is a steering damper designed to take some of the jolt out of the steering felt at the steering wheel my next observation is how “big” does he want the steering mechanism to be?
I will agree the steering damper should be bigger and my plan is to upgrade mine soon. I worked for Ford in the frame assembly area for the Super Duty trucks and I won’t go into detail but the components ARE heavy duty.
The issue is a design flaw that Ford refuses to acknowledge.
 
i had followed this problem for a few years myself. some suspension company came up with a solution, i think it had to do with a new steering stabilizer (shock absorber)

only 1 video, but the one i had seen a couple of years ago, could be far down the google search list.

That's only 1 link in the potential issues. When he grabbed the tierod and said he could move it? It does have and can rotate it some, but means nothing. Why is there steering stablizers on vehicles anyway? Power steering has been on vehicles for a long time without them and people has hit pot holes without incidents being caused. Plain and simple, bad parts! Not design! I say this because I've had ball joints put on and within 2 weeks 1 popped. The manufacturer of the part knew about this. BTW it wasn't GM oe parts. I informed the mechanic and he called the company. The company paid for the towing, part(s) and alignment, but not the labor. Labor was minimal, so no biggie compared too what total could've been.
 
For those who have fords in those year models can you grease the front end (the moving components)? That's what pi$$es me off about gm! Everything is sealed, well most everything? More than just checking tire wear for potential front end issues. Their idfs parts are the same on suv and all full size p/u I've been told.
 
For those who have fords in those year models can you grease the front end (the moving components)? That's what pi$$es me off about gm! Everything is sealed, well most everything? More than just checking tire wear for potential front end issues. Their idfs parts are the same on suv and all full size p/u I've been told.
I can honestly and truthfully report that the front ends are completely different when it comes to SUV’s and trucks built by Ford.
There are two frame lines at the truck plant in Kentucky, frame line 1 is super duty only and frame line 2 is a mix of SD’s and Lincoln SUV’s Frame line 1 supported F250 up to F450 and front end components were different based on what the truck was being built to do also based on customer request. The only thing that was a joke was the shocks for the “Tremors” they were the same with a different color boot. 😂

To answer your question completely some components do have grease fittings others do not based on the duty ratings of the truck being built, SUV’s we’re all sealed forcing the owner to pay for a replacement when the part (grease) dried out or escaped due to seal failure and the part failed.

An interesting note is for the 8 months I worked there EVERY Super Duty made was already sold before it was built.
 
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here my two baby’s
 
Thanks
I can fix everything manually. Pretty simple from electronics to engine components. Old school get your hands dirty and get it done
Yea definitely my kind of truck I think about either getting something like that or sometimes I think about getting a brand néw Ford truck so as I think about I will keep the two I got got now yea again killer Ford that is a killer truck the color is awesome 😎
 
Ford has the worst customer service I've ever experienced. When I bought my F150 brand new a few years ago I was having some weird electrical issues with the wipers turning on by themselves and the touchscreen display bringing up screens for electric vehicle information which my truck is not an electric vehicle. I had to take my truck to the dealership 4 different times while it was still well within the factory warranty and they failed to fix the issue 3 of those times and during all of this they wouldn't even provide me with a rental. The issue ended up being a bad windshield seal from the factory that was letting water get the the computer which both ended up being replaced.

The other issue I had with Ford customer service was when my front bumper which is factory painted to match the body was showing aggressive premature rust and corrosion which I found out is a common issue on the F150 painted bumpers. The pitting gets so bad so quickly that the bumper can't even be saved and had to be replaced. Ford would not honor the corrosion or rust warranty with the excuse of there isn't a hole through the bumper so it's not covered even though the Ford dealership body shop tech said he sees this bumper issue almost daily and Ford never owns the issue. I've called Ford directly to get this resolved and they have failed to make it right.

I've had a few safety related recalls with my truck also and was told that even though my VIN # is part of the recall Ford won't replace any parts unless there's currently an issue associated with the recall and to top it off the recall has an expiration date that they won't service your vehicle for the recall after the allotted time if the problem happens later.

I do like driving my 3.5 Ecoboost but I'm not impressed with Ford customer service and I wouldn't expect them to suddenly step up and own their known issue.
When my wife bought her 2016 Jeep Compass it came equipped with Firestone tires which I despise, within 6 months the tires started to dry rot, went back to dealer, Chrysler and Firestone over this issue, NOTHING WAS EVER DONE ABOUT IT, dealer said it was Chrysler place, Chrysler said it was Firestone place, Firestone said go back to dealer, all we got was a run around, I will never buy or get any vehicles with Firestone tires, and completely done with Chrysler corporation.
 
When my wife bought her 2016 Jeep Compass it came equipped with Firestone tires which I despise, within 6 months the tires started to dry rot, went back to dealer, Chrysler and Firestone over this issue, NOTHING WAS EVER DONE ABOUT IT, dealer said it was Chrysler place, Chrysler said it was Firestone place, Firestone said go back to dealer, all we got was a run around, I will never buy or get any vehicles with Firestone tires, and completely done with Chrysler corporation.
I think Firestone should of been good for that wow that sucks
 
For probably the last 30 or so years I've always checked the date code on any vehicle I was considering buying and if they were more than -2-3 yrs old, the deal was off unless the dealer put new tires of my choice on it. Fact is most tires are good for about 6-7+ yrs with no anticipated troubles. But after 6, they should be broken down and inspected by knowledgeable tire folks that you trust for interior damage and aging.

This used to be a pretty hard core rule, but with more and more imported tires on the road, not quite so much any more. Sometimes even 6 yrs is too long to go without taking a look. Interior damage can be caused by something as simple as having a very slow leak and adding air from time to time.

All compressed air has some amount of H2o in it and that water is accumulated each time air is added, especially from at home-shop compressors. That moisture inside the tire will eventually cause some degradation to the interior of the tire, even to sometimes causing the steel belts to actually rust, and can cause a failure called a 'zipper' failure. Doesn't really matter what it's called, it's still a blow out and not a good thing!

There are only two major manufacturers currently made entirely in the USA as far as I know (Cooper & BF Goodrich iirc) and both make great tires. But also many such as Firestone, Goodyear, Bridgestone, Kelly (old familiar American made names) and others have some facilities in the US, but also facilities over seas. Some are good tires, just beware.
 
When my wife bought her 2016 Jeep Compass it came equipped with Firestone tires which I despise, within 6 months the tires started to dry rot, went back to dealer, Chrysler and Firestone over this issue, NOTHING WAS EVER DONE ABOUT IT, dealer said it was Chrysler place, Chrysler said it was Firestone place, Firestone said go back to dealer, all we got was a run around, I will never buy or get any vehicles with Firestone tires, and completely done with Chrysler corporation.
It’s no surprise that the tires that come with a vehicle when it is sold do not last as long as they should, those tires are considered contract tires and are often purchased in the hundreds of thousands to allow for lower purchasing cost and stored until they are needed. Also since they are purchased under contract they are usually made quickly and unfortunately with very little quality control so if they don’t dry rot due to long term storage they wear out in less then half the time and mileage because of compound mixing irregularities that you wouldn’t get from the exact same tire purchased from a tire store or even the dealership since they are purchased in smaller quantities and newer from the manufacturer. Care should also be taken when purchasing tires from some tire stores such as (BigO) and PepBoys these types of stores also purchase under contract to lower cost and don’t last as long. One thing to look for is the tire may say Goodyear “for example” it will also say made for (Big0) name used for example only.

The Death wobble many believe is caused by or is one of the results of the original contract tires which are a lower quality.
My F250 came with GoodYear Wrangler All Terrain Adventure tire with the Kevlar sidewall, I wore those down to “for me” an unacceptable tread depth in less then 25k miles when I decided to replace them I went to a GoodYear tire store and purchased the exact same tire going up one size in the circumference for a slightly higher ride, 35k miles later they are just slightly below new tire tread depth.

One interesting note is when I purchased my 2006 Hummer H3, the the truck had the off road package but when shipped from the factory tires for the off road version of the truck we’re not available so it was delivered to the dealership with street tires for transport purposes only. I had my choice of tires and chose the GoodYear Wrangler XLT those tires are now discontinued. Since they were not contract tires I put 85k miles on those tires with only 4 rotations and this was a full time all wheel drive truck.
 
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It’s no surprise that the tires that come with a vehicle when it is sold do not last as long as they should, those tires are considered contract tires and are often purchased in the hundreds of thousands to allow for lower purchasing cost and stored until they are needed. Also since they are purchased under contract they are usually made quickly and unfortunately with very little quality control so if they don’t dry rot due to long term storage they wear out in less then half the time and mileage because of compound mixing irregularities that you wouldn’t get from the exact same tire purchased from a tire store or even the dealership since they are purchased in smaller quantities and newer from the manufacturer. Care should also be taken when purchasing tires from some tire stores such as (BigO) and PepBoys these types of stores also purchase under contract to lower cost and don’t last as long. One thing to look for is the tire may say Goodyear “for example” it will also say made for (Big0) name used for example only.

The Death wobble many believe is caused by or is one of the results of the original contract tires which are a lower quality.
My F250 came with GoodYear Wrangler All Terrain Adventure tire with the Kevlar sidewall, I wore those down to “for me” an unacceptable tread depth in less then 25k miles when I decided to replace them I went to a GoodYear tire store and purchased the exact same tire going up one size in the circumference for a slightly higher ride, 35k miles later they are just slightly below new tire tread depth.

One interesting note is when I purchased my 2006 Hummer H3, the the truck had the off road package but when shipped from the factory tires for the off road version of the truck we’re not available so it was delivered to the dealership with street tires for transport purposes only. I had my choice of tires and chose the GoodYear Wrangler XLT those tires are now discontinued. Since they were not contract tires I put 85k miles on those tires with only 4 rotations and this was a full time all wheel drive truck.
Yea, but should last longer then 6 months and only 4,000 miles on them….
 
While it's true car dealers/manufacturers do buy tires in volume, they are purchased on a 'Just in Time' inventory plan and thus usually are not more than 18 mos old when sold on the new vehicle, so age is rarely a problem. Occasionally they might sit a little longer than that, but not the norm. And they do typically wear at a faster rate than tires one would buy aftermarket, but that has more to do with the tire/rubber compound than any quality issues. Just compare the mileage rating one to the other (OEM vs aftermarket) and you'll see.

Vehicle dealers/manufacturers will typically provide a softer and more stable tire for new cars/truck deliveries to give a much improved ride/comfort level and a more confident road feel for the customer than a harder compound. These tires will also usually be run at a little less than optimum pressures, and both these reasons will promote what seems to be a faster than normal tire wear after the sale of a new vehicle.

Another issue that sometimes/often takes part in tire wear, especially on trucks, is that when we replace the dealer's tires with new aftermarket ones, we sometimes go up a size or two for looks and/or utility while not realizing how much just a little different size will affect longevity. For example, if you go from a 34" dia tire to a 35" dia tire (just 1" in dia difference or 1/2" taller to the axle), you will improve the wear/mileage of that tire over the smaller one by about 3%. So, if you're getting 35K miles from the bigger tire, that's an increase of approximately 1050 miles over the mileage of smaller one just from the size difference with every other thing being equal. But know this .... the vehicle manufacturer will almost always be 'on the money' with recommended tire size for optimum results. He knows his vehicle's limitations and/or requirements best.

The larger tire will often also call for a few pounds more in tire pressure too which will also provide a longer life, all other things being equal. But the single biggest increase in actual mileage of aftermarket tires over OEM's is the fact they will typically be a harder/firmer compound having a higher mileage (and sometimes load and speed) rating than OEM's, and often run those little higher pressures. At the same time you may/may not affect your actual mileage (good or bad), and you will be adding extra wear and tear to all your truck's drive train (especially gear ratio), suspension system, steering system, and braking systems. With only minor tire size differences it usually won't be enough to notice, but there will be a difference! It's those ever present, sometimes PIA laws of physics.

And lastly, there's no way a new car/truck manufacturer can tell you, the prospective buyer/owner, what the optimum tire pressure will be for 'your' particular needs. They will give a routine, average pressure requirement that will provide the best of mileage, comfort, longevity, and road feel to the most average drivers of that particular kind/type of vehicle. They cannot possibility know how anyone will/might use that vehicle after it's bought.

So, the thing to do is once you've settled on and mounted the aftermarket type and size of tire you want, or to extend the life of the OEM's, go to that tire manufacturer's web site and take a look at their tire use/pressure comparison charts. Find your tire model, use and size (and any other particulars), compare that info to their chart and see what the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure for your specific use/needs is. Rarely will it be the maximum pressure molded into the sidewall, but could be. You will also be able to determine if/and by how much you may be overloading/overworking your new tires. You'll need an actual vehicle weight (not the book weight, but ideally actual individual corner weights) with big, heavy, across the bed tool boxes, typical loads you might carry, or pulling too heavy trailers, etc. Obviously some of this isn't really necessary on most of our personal vehicles, but the bigger/heavier the vehicle is, the more important it is. And the bottom line is this ..... running tires underinflated is BY FAR......... by far ...... did I say 'by far' the single biggest contributor to premature tire wear/failure of almost any means.

Tires are a really interesting item to understand, especially for their simplicity. Take a look and you'll see. (y)(y)
 
While it's true car dealers/manufacturers do buy tires in volume, they are purchased on a 'Just in Time' inventory plan and thus usually are not more than 18 mos old when sold on the new vehicle, so age is rarely a problem. Occasionally they might sit a little longer than that, but not the norm. And they do typically wear at a faster rate than tires one would buy aftermarket, but that has more to do with the tire/rubber compound than any quality issues. Just compare the mileage rating one to the other (OEM vs aftermarket) and you'll see.

Vehicle dealers/manufacturers will typically provide a softer and more stable tire for new cars/truck deliveries to give a much improved ride/comfort level and a more confident road feel for the customer than a harder compound. These tires will also usually be run at a little less than optimum pressures, and both these reasons will promote what seems to be a faster than normal tire wear after the sale of a new vehicle.

Another issue that sometimes/often takes part in tire wear, especially on trucks, is that when we replace the dealer's tires with new aftermarket ones, we sometimes go up a size or two for looks and/or utility while not realizing how much just a little different size will affect longevity. For example, if you go from a 34" dia tire to a 35" dia tire (just 1" in dia difference or 1/2" taller to the axle), you will improve the wear/mileage of that tire over the smaller one by about 3%. So, if you're getting 35K miles from the bigger tire, that's an increase of approximately 1050 miles over the mileage of smaller one just from the size difference with every other thing being equal. But know this .... the vehicle manufacturer will almost always be 'on the money' with recommended tire size for optimum results. He knows his vehicle's limitations and/or requirements best.

The larger tire will often also call for a few pounds more in tire pressure too which will also provide a longer life, all other things being equal. But the single biggest increase in actual mileage of aftermarket tires over OEM's is the fact they will typically be a harder/firmer compound having a higher mileage (and sometimes load and speed) rating than OEM's, and often run those little higher pressures. At the same time you may/may not affect your actual mileage (good or bad), and you will be adding extra wear and tear to all your truck's drive train (especially gear ratio), suspension system, steering system, and braking systems. With only minor tire size differences it usually won't be enough to notice, but there will be a difference! It's those ever present, sometimes PIA laws of physics.

And lastly, there's no way a new car/truck manufacturer can tell you, the prospective buyer/owner, what the optimum tire pressure will be for 'your' particular needs. They will give a routine, average pressure requirement that will provide the best of mileage, comfort, longevity, and road feel to the most average drivers of that particular kind/type of vehicle. They cannot possibility know how anyone will/might use that vehicle after it's bought.

So, the thing to do is once you've settled on and mounted the aftermarket type and size of tire you want, or to extend the life of the OEM's, go to that tire manufacturer's web site and take a look at their tire use/pressure comparison charts. Find your tire model, use and size (and any other particulars), compare that info to their chart and see what the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure for your specific use/needs is. Rarely will it be the maximum pressure molded into the sidewall, but could be. You will also be able to determine if/and by how much you may be overloading/overworking your new tires. You'll need an actual vehicle weight (not the book weight, but ideally actual individual corner weights) with big, heavy, across the bed tool boxes, typical loads you might carry, or pulling too heavy trailers, etc. Obviously some of this isn't really necessary on most of our personal vehicles, but the bigger/heavier the vehicle is, the more important it is. And the bottom line is this ..... running tires underinflated is BY FAR......... by far ...... did I say 'by far' the single biggest contributor to premature tire wear/failure of almost any means.

Tires are a really interesting item to understand, especially for their simplicity. Take a look and you'll see. (y)(y)
These tires were inflated to 35psi as it stated on the door jamb, the tires were also the right size also stated on the door jamb, as I stated I still should have got more then 6 months and a little over 4,000 miles on new damn tires, they should have not started dry rotting and cracking on the side walls like they did, done bitching on the tires, but I did replace them with 4 Hercules tires at a cost of $800.00 no thanks to Chrysler or Firestone or my dealer.
 
Hey Anni, I wasn't referring to your situation at all ..... in fact I absolutely agree you should have gotten better wear than that or at least a better response/result. I was just talking 'tires' in general and for general information.

I certainly meant on offense towards you man! Sorry if it came across that way! (y)(y)(y)
 
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