Gun Storage

[Bassbob]

Do you have this model Bob? I know the weak point that jumps out is the electronic keypad...how easy is it to replace when it fails (they all do...just a matter of time). At least it has a key-access when the keypad does fail. And like you said, it keeps the crackheads out. I've thought of building a vault in some unused area of the basement, then I remember that I'm not a mason and generally impatient...common sense takes over.

Yes.

 

[10mmLife]

Do you have this model Bob? I know the weak point that jumps out is the electronic keypad...how easy is it to replace when it fails (they all do...just a matter of time). At least it has a key-access when the keypad does fail. And like you said, it keeps the crackheads out. I've thought of building a vault in some unused area of the basement, then I remember that I'm not a mason and generally impatient...common sense takes over.

That model has a backup key included. You can always upgrade any safes lock to have a biometric feature and a more secure keying type.

OMEGA BIOMETRIC ELECTRONIC KEY-OPERATED SWINGBOLT LOCK PACKAGE W/ KEYPAD

MBA USA, Inc. is a provider of locks, tools and training for locksmiths and security professionals.

mbausa.com

 

[HansGruber]

I just wanted to bump this thread back into circulation. Been safe shopping for a couple weeks now...what an education.

If you want a true "safe", you will spend $4k-$15k. Must be internally bolted to concrete floor, otherwise it's not secure...should be wedged in a concrete corner (basement) to block one of the sides of the safe....must get at least 60minutes of fire rating, better to get 180 minutes...round locking lugs are OK, but wide flat locking bars are best, and they must protrude from all 4 sides of the door....must have 8 gauge steel or thicker....blah blah blah. Talked to a fireman buddy and he said no safe nor its contents will survive a house fire. Only concrete I have in my home is either the garage or the basement, and I could not get a 400lb (or more) safe down my stairs, and I refuse to store firearms in the garage with humidity in summer and -20F winter temps. Electronic locks are the weak point and usually fail in 3-5 years...requiring a locksmith to drill them out and replace, which costs $1-3k (Liberty warrants their electronic locks/keypads for 5 years). Hinges should be on the inside of the door, otherwise the door is more easily pried off with a crowbar. Cheapest safe with interior hinges is $3-4k and weighs 500++lbs. Delivery and installation of true "safe" starts at $700 (on top of cost of the safe), but even professional movers could NOT get a 1000lb safe across the floor of my house and down the stairs without wreaking my floors and stairs. The weakest point of a safe is the top and sides, easily cut open with a cutting wheel and sawzall...even 8 gauge steel.

I think I'll buy a locking cabinet and take my chances. I thought I could get a decent and secure unit for $1500-2000, but holy moly...Loved the high-end Liberty models, but I'm not paying $10k for a safe. Not a chance until money is no object, C'mon Powerball!

I did learn pleasantly that it is far better to have multiple smaller safes than one large one. Skilled thieves need 30 minutes to break into a high-end safe....each one. Thus, if you have 4 smaller high-end safes, that's 2+ hours of labor breaking into all 4. They likely wouldn't take the time. They might get one or 2, but not all of them. I heard repeatedly that a safe only buys you time, whether it's from a fire or from burglars. I learned quite a bit, but I am overall quite disappointed...

I’ve got an electronic lock on one of my Brownings which is just fine after 15 years…a good electronic (S&G, etc) has a considerably longer life than you claim.

 

[Jfal]

Sorry Hans, I meant you no offense. Since I did not explicitly explain it in that post, the first (large and wordy) paragraph was a group of sentiments that I repeatedly heard at the various places I visited to do my homework on safes, and those dealers were many and varied. The general sentiments in that paragraph are the ones that stick out in my memory from having heard at least more than once. None of those statements did I hear at every location...but some were more common than others. The electronic lock sentiment sticks out primarily because one vendor made a point of telling me his safe was the only one with a 5-year warranty on the electronic lock...the most common failure point, even on his $12,000 safes (aside from cosmetic damage caused by movers hired to move and install....I heard about that at EVERY dealer).

No one here should infer that I would make any personal claim about vaults or safes....I do not even own one yet. Thus, I have to deny that the statement from my post was my claim. I have no personal experience with safes at all, other than what I've learned over a few weeks.

I see how my post may have been interpreted, and I apologize for not being more explicit in the post's written intent.

 

[Bassbob]

A 5 year warranty on an Electronic keypad ? I think most of them will all last that long.

 

[10mmLife]

I’ve got an electronic lock on one of my Brownings which is just fine after 15 years…a good electronic (S&G, etc) has a considerably longer life than you claim.

I agree a good electronic lock will last a long time without issue.

Some of the Winchester electronic safe models at tractor supply have a spotty history with keypad failures being common at one point in time. Though I think this has been resolved. The newer Winchester safes now come with a backup key to alleviate worry of getting locked out. I would still recommend upgrading to a good S&G or Omega lock when buying a lower cost safe.

 

[Bassbob]

I agree a good electronic lock will last a long time without issue.

Some of the Winchester electronic safe models at tractor supply have a spotty history with keypad failures being common at one point in time. Though I think this has been resolved. The newer Winchester safes now come with a backup key to alleviate worry of getting locked out. I would still recommend upgrading to a good S&G or Omega lock when buying a lower cost safe.

If mine ever craps out I plan on it.