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Have any of you run into this situation?

Old_Me

Old_Me

SAINT
ok, so in my stock of lubes, i have Weapon Shield, Hoppes, and Gibbs

the Gibbs was a "free" sample to my Korth revolver.

the Weapon Shield, i bought after watching several videos on it's ability to cut down wear on metal parts.

the Hoppes, well, cuz Hoppes was more pronounced on the shelf at the LGS...

ok, so, i have 4 revolvers...1) Korth Mongoose(6") 357 mag, S&W 686+(6") 357 mag, Colt Python (6") 357 mag, and Ruger GP 100 (2.5")

i lube the "wheel's bearing/bushing" area for a smooth rotation.

today, i am going to take the Ruger, and last night, i went to "spin" the wheel, and it was sorta like "slow"

i used Weapon Shield, when i last cleaned it, many weeks ago, and have not used it since.

so last night, i shot some Gibbs into the wheel bearing area, and it spun like no tomorrow.

that is the set up

here are my questions, Weapon Shield is a synthetic, could it have "dried out" or embedded itself into the metal to seem to be dry?

or, could the Weapon Shield, being synthetic, have migrated down to a lower part in the wheel, leaving the bearing area "dry"?

i noticed this same scenario with any of my 1911's, when i use Weapon Shield.

i have to "re-lube" the slides, the night before i go to the range

also, take note, that ALL my guns are kept in a gun pouch, not a clamshell hard case, and ALL my guns are stores in the position as if i were holding them, not laying flat, for instance, like this, in it's pouch

1647345115834.png


if the Weapon Shield is "migrating" to a lower level in the gun, or being absorbed into the metals, any suggestions as what to do, other than of course, don't use it for long term storage?

ALL my guns (at least 25 so far) are in a rotation to get to the range, so that can be at least 2 months maybe 3, before anyone of them, get to the range.

suggestions..?? ideas..????

thanks in a dvance.
 
Old_Me said:
ok, so in my stock of lubes, i have Weapon Shield, Hoppes, and Gibbs

the Gibbs was a "free" sample to my Korth revolver.

the Weapon Shield, i bought after watching several videos on it's ability to cut down wear on metal parts.

the Hoppes, well, cuz Hoppes was more pronounced on the shelf at the LGS...

ok, so, i have 4 revolvers...1) Korth Mongoose(6") 357 mag, S&W 686+(6") 357 mag, Colt Python (6") 357 mag, and Ruger GP 100 (2.5")

i lube the "wheel's bearing/bushing" area for a smooth rotation.

today, i am going to take the Ruger, and last night, i went to "spin" the wheel, and it was sorta like "slow"

i used Weapon Shield, when i last cleaned it, many weeks ago, and have not used it since.

so last night, i shot some Gibbs into the wheel bearing area, and it spun like no tomorrow.

that is the set up

here are my questions, Weapon Shield is a synthetic, could it have "dried out" or embedded itself into the metal to seem to be dry?

or, could the Weapon Shield, being synthetic, have migrated down to a lower part in the wheel, leaving the bearing area "dry"?

i noticed this same scenario with any of my 1911's, when i use Weapon Shield.

i have to "re-lube" the slides, the night before i go to the range

also, take note, that ALL my guns are kept in a gun pouch, not a clamshell hard case, and ALL my guns are stores in the position as if i were holding them, not laying flat, for instance, like this, in it's pouch

View attachment 25669

if the Weapon Shield is "migrating" to a lower level in the gun, or being absorbed into the metals, any suggestions as what to do, other than of course, don't use it for long term storage?

ALL my guns (at least 25 so far) are in a rotation to get to the range, so that can be at least 2 months maybe 3, before anyone of them, get to the range.

suggestions..?? ideas..????

thanks in a dvance.
Click to expand...
I dont think it would dry out physically.
Maybe just migrated as you state lower in the firearm with gravity being its upright.
As Hans asks, is there an oil stain on your case where it dripped off ??
 
Not wanting to suggest an answer you may not want to hear, however, I have the same issue with a number of bio lubes. I have been using bio lube for some time due to it's ability to fend off oxidation and dissolve carbon and fouling while the gun keeps running. I have tried some of the top lubes synthetic etc. There are a few bio lubes I have not tried but for the most part all of the major lubes I have tested on my guns.

My observations is that most lubes are not adequate for storage. Second the lubes that work best for storage need to be cleaned off and the gun needs to be re-lubricated. Most guns need to be wet to run reliably.

I have several antique revolvers and they need something thin. Anything thin seems to evaporate, congeal, or migrate. So I suggest you keep looking for a revolver solution. I would guess the manufacturers would have at least an educated opinion on oils you can use. Stainless versus non stainless has always been a variable in the mix in the revolver category as far as how the lube works on the surfaces. My non coated stainless guns always soak up a lot of oil and fouling in the porous surfaces.

Im sure a lube exists thats ideal, you'll have to do research. I would suggest you invest in a ultrasonic cleaning tank, because revolvers can actually hold on to a lot of fouling and oxidation in tight places. Once you get them tanked and creep all the unwanted crap out of them, you can apply a quality coating that works. Something like Sprinco's Machine Gunners Lube might work for you? It doesn't migrate if applied correctly.

Good luck!
 
My question is did you clean that area with Weapon Shield real good, then did you wipe off that same area with a clean patch to remove any residue, then reapply the Weapon Shield. The reason I am asking is I had a long conversation with one of Weapon Shields tech guys a few years back, and the tech told me to clean the old lube and stuff off using the Weapon Shield, then wipe the gun down with a clean patch before you reapply the Weapon Shield, maybe your issue was just left over old lube
 
While have never used weapon shield 🛡️ I can say I have never been real satisfied with any CLP type products. The ol'mantra of jack of all trades master of none has been my experience with CLP stuff. Until I found Lucas products I had been a big user of the Tetra lube products. I also found their CLP product just ok. However I thought it sucked as lubricant to be frank. Once Tetra changed up their formula and the Tetra lube itself was not nearly as good as it had been I was done.
With the Lucas extreme oil it stays put while in the safe. By that I mean it will not evaporate that I've found.
 
Annihilator said:
My question is did you clean that area with Weapon Shield real good, then did you wipe off that same area with a clean patch to remove any residue, then reapply the Weapon Shield. The reason I am asking is I had a long conversation with one of Weapon Shields tech guys a few years back, and the tech told me to clean the old lube and stuff off using the Weapon Shield, then wipe the gun down with a clean patch before you reapply the Weapon Shield, maybe your issue was just left over old lube
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That makes sense on the old lube 👍🧐
 
Although I don’t use the lubricant mentioned in O.M’s post I will say after I clean and oil my guns I don’t worry about how there stored however if they sit unused for an extended length of time I will break them down for a lite lube before taking them out shooting.
 
Keystone19250 said:
Although I don’t use the lubricant mentioned in O.M’s post I will say after I clean and oil my guns I don’t worry about how there stored however if they sit unused for an extended length of time I will break them down for a lite lube before taking them out shooting.
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….pretty much my situation; i will even store mine dry if I’m sure I won’t get those particular ones out for a while. Each stays wrapped in a clean white flour-sack cloth.
 
Keystone19250 said:
That’s something I will never do, all my guns are oiled after cleaning, if I know they will sit they are oiled very well to prevent rust.
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I’ve heard others say that… funny, but I don’t recall having that happen…???
To clarify: if I’m going to store them awhile dry, I’ve almost always sprayed them down with Tetra Action Blaster or Lucas Contact Cleaner, then made certain they were genuinely dry. Second thing is, they go (wrapped up, as mentioned above) in a plastic case with a rubber seal around the inside of the lid…dunno if that does the trick or what.
But then again, my idea of a ‘long time’ tends to be max about 4 months…by then I’ve pulled the dang thing out again for some reason or another, and I’m fooling with it again ! 🙄
 
I want to suggest you degrease it with a spray cleaner, then after fully dry go back with a regular oil, as in not something “bio” or “revolutionary” or whatever.
Ballistol, Lucas, etc.
Then store it the same place, same way. And see what happens.
You never know.
 
Annihilator said:
My question is did you clean that area with Weapon Shield real good, then did you wipe off that same area with a clean patch to remove any residue, then reapply the Weapon Shield. The reason I am asking is I had a long conversation with one of Weapon Shields tech guys a few years back, and the tech told me to clean the old lube and stuff off using the Weapon Shield, then wipe the gun down with a clean patch before you reapply the Weapon Shield, maybe your issue was just left over old lube
Click to expand...
i do not clean with Weapon Shield. i clean with Hoppes, then lube with W/S.
 
TidalWave said:
I want to suggest you degrease it with a spray cleaner, then after fully dry go back with a regular oil, as in not something “bio” or “revolutionary” or whatever.
Ballistol, Lucas, etc.
Then store it the same place, same way. And see what happens.
You never know.
Click to expand...
i did not know that Weapon Shield was some sort of "bio" product.
 
TidalWave said:
I want to suggest you degrease it with a spray cleaner, then after fully dry go back with a regular oil, as in not something “bio” or “revolutionary” or whatever.
Ballistol, Lucas, etc.
Then store it the same place, same way. And see what happens.
You never know.
Click to expand...
well i had a big problem with my Korth.

i was shooting reloaded ammo, either 357 mag, or 38 special, and as everyone knows that crap is as dirty as a 5 year old playing in the mud.

the wheel literally stopped spinning.

i could not for the life of me, disassemble the Korths wheel. so i soaked the wheel and crane assembly in a large container and added Kroil

that stuff, does absolutely NOTHING as so many people swear by.

so after trying and trying, i finally broke loose the extractor's tip, and disassembled the entire wheel assembly.

i used tried and true Hoppes, and then had to use a soft wire brush to remove the crud from the gunpowder.

i reassembled the wheel and crane and then gave it a lube with weapon shield, and the wheel spun like it should.

i had tried various "sprays" into the wheels bearing area, nothing......

i cannot get Balistol here at all, it's online only, so i never tried that.
 
Old_Me said:
well i had a big problem with my Korth.

i was shooting reloaded ammo, either 357 mag, or 38 special, and as everyone knows that crap is as dirty as a 5 year old playing in the mud.

the wheel literally stopped spinning.

i could not for the life of me, disassemble the Korths wheel. so i soaked the wheel and crane assembly in a large container and added Kroil

that stuff, does absolutely NOTHING as so many people swear by.

so after trying and trying, i finally broke loose the extractor's tip, and disassembled the entire wheel assembly.

i used tried and true Hoppes, and then had to use a soft wire brush to remove the crud from the gunpowder.

i reassembled the wheel and crane and then gave it a lube with weapon shield, and the wheel spun like it should.

i had tried various "sprays" into the wheels bearing area, nothing......

i cannot get Balistol here at all, it's online only, so i never tried that.
Click to expand...
It seams to me the (Weapons Shield) is “shielding” you from enjoying and cleaning your guns. I’d go to a regular high quality gun oil like Hoppe’s Black
 
Weapon Shield is fine. I've been using it for a few years now with excellent results.

Also I disagree with whoever made the statement that most guns need to be wet to run reliably. I would say most people dramatically over oil their weapons. Except 1911s. They like to be dipped in vats of oil prior to shooting. :)
 
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