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Holosun SCS issues with screws?

Holosuns do all come with pretty good hardware, but a lot of us go for buying mounting screw kits from several of the places mentioned above, perhaps just a bit higher quality material. Personally, if I Untorqued and torqued more than a time or two, say to change batteries, I would change screws also. Metal gets fatigue when torqued and there is a limit, although we may not know what it is, to how many times it will withstand torquing. Holosun does have a recommended torque and as you noted they do use a drop of dried Blue loctite.
If you are going to get into this and are able to do so, you should buy a Wheeler F.A.T. wrench and maybe some fixitsticks. The right tools do matter.

Like the good folks above pointed out, anything wetish can be a lube temporarily.... don't wet lube your screws then torque.

Were you able to get the screws out?

Cheers Dave!
 
Warrior9(Ret) said:
I’ve used a toothpick and my digital calipers to measure the depth of a screw hole before. Seems to work for me 👍
I also use double sided tape to hold the screws while I apply the thread lock to them.
Stick one side to a ruler then the screws head first to the other side. I let them dry like that.
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Warrior9(Ret) said:
I’ve used a toothpick and my digital calipers to measure the depth of a screw hole before. Seems to work for me 👍
I also use double sided tape to hold the screws while I apply the thread lock to them.
Stick one side to a ruler then the screws head first to the other side. I let them dry like that.
Click to expand...
Tricks of the trade, much appreciated!
 
MrMichaelActual said:
Holosuns do all come with pretty good hardware, but a lot of us go for buying mounting screw kits from several of the places mentioned above, perhaps just a bit higher quality material. Personally, if I Untorqued and torqued more than a time or two, say to change batteries, I would change screws also. Metal gets fatigue when torqued and there is a limit, although we may not know what it is, to how many times it will withstand torquing. Holosun does have a recommended torque and as you noted they do use a drop of dried Blue loctite.
If you are going to get into this and are able to do so, you should buy a Wheeler F.A.T. wrench and maybe some fixitsticks. The right tools do matter.

Like the good folks above pointed out, anything wetish can be a lube temporarily.... don't wet lube your screws then torque.

Were you able to get the screws out?

Cheers Dave!
Click to expand...
Thanks for this!
Thankfully wasn’t my gun, it was an Amazon review with pics and I refuse to be the guy who sees that and doesn’t address it before install! This forum and all the input is truly helpful so glad I found my way here!
 
DaveOHCPC said:
Thanks for this!
Thankfully wasn’t my gun, it was an Amazon review with pics and I refuse to be the guy who sees that and doesn’t address it before install! This forum and all the input is truly helpful so glad I found my way here!
Click to expand...
I always do research before I buy a firearm or a component for a firearm. This forum is a Top Notch source to get honest no BS opinions and How To’s
 
Props to Holosun’s CS
 

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no life said:
I am curious how or why you think liquid thread lock affects(?) the torque of a bolt/screw?

The only thing liquid thread lock effects(?) is unscrewing the bolt/screw out (it's purpose in life) and for some "colors" like red and the size of the bolt/screw, heating up the bolt/screw or the piece the bolt/screw is in will be needed to "loosen" the thread lock.
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Because torque ratings are given assuming "Clean and dry" screws and threads.

And if we're going to expound on the subject I will add that thread locker is unnecessary when proper torque values are are used. I remember when no manufacturers went out of their way to recommend LocTite on optic screws. Then like internet magic they all did. Ever wonder why ? Because almost no one had or used a torque driver and adhered to torque specs. Then they all started complaining about their red dots taking off mid shot. I've never had a single one even move or lose zero.
 
SL66 said:
I have heard that we should Reduce torque by 3 to 5 inlb with loctite as it lubricates the screw. See attached from Vortex Defender XL manual.View attachment 80659
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That's a guess at best. The actual number should be a percent. It may be close, I don't know. I do know that I have many optics that have withstood a great many rounds with no thread locker and installed clean and dry to proper torque specs.
 
I agree Bob, guess at best. I would bet that if you took my Wheeler FAT wrench and set it to 10 inlb and torqued 5 separate screws, they would all have different torqued values actually applied to each.
 
Bassbob said:
Because torque ratings are given assuming "Clean and dry" screws and threads.

And if we're going to expound on the subject I will add that thread locker is unnecessary when proper torque values are are used. I remember when no manufacturers went out of their way to recommend LocTite on optic screws. Then like internet magic they all did. Ever wonder why ? Because almost no one had or used a torque driver and adhered to torque specs. Then they all started complaining about their red dots taking off mid shot. I've never had a single one even move or lose zero.
Click to expand...

Ok... my knowledge of torque and LoctTite was from the 20 years i was a vehicle parts counterman. And i owe you all an apology for what/how i tapped out my other post.
 
SL66 said:
I agree Bob, guess at best. I would bet that if you took my Wheeler FAT wrench and set it to 10 inlb and torqued 5 separate screws, they would all have different torqued values actually applied to each.
Click to expand...
Interesting experiment. Torque some screws down, wait a week then reverse torque them to see if it's different. I have no doubt the FIS or Wheeler torque drivers aren't as accurate as the torque wrenches I have in my garage. I would also bet that 90% of the people who don't use a torque driver to install the screws are over-tightening their screws too. First time you have to drill a screw out of an expensive optic, you'll go out and buy a torque driver. Witness marks on everything is an easy way to do routine check on screw status.
 
Last summer I had to spend like $180 on a spindle because I failed to check on torque specs when installing an upper ball joint on my Ram. I used the "Gutentite" method. You know, like the old days when all that stuff was Detroit steel. The actual torque spec was 80 ft lbs. When I reverse torqued the nut I had it somewhere slightly north of 200 ft. lbs.
 
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