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Is Ultrasonic Cleaning Worth It?

Blackmesa96

Blackmesa96

Master Class
Considering buying an ultrasonic unit to help clean and maintain the herd. Primarily expect to use it for bolts, BCGs and barrels. If it works as advertised, I could see using it on disassembled slides, frames, and the like.

Given the people on this forum appear to have a fairly good pool of knowledge, thought I would ask this group. I understand that ultrasonic cleaning will definitely remove oil and oily residue, but how good a job does it do on other types of firearm grime?

The idea of not having to disassemble a bolt or slide to thoroughly clean the inside surfaces is intriguing. My research tells me that the choice of cleaning solution is important. Also understand that it's necessary to follow cleaning with an oil bath of sorts.

Am I living in a dream world, or is this possible? Insight based on experience would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
I mainly used media type until I tried ultrasonic (lyman 2500). However I didn't use Lyman cleaner, but instead I use ribs (I was using it before purchasing the Lyman). Cleaned cases in about 15 minutes to my liking. The Frankford dryer couldn't dry that fast. Is it worth it.......it's subjective, but for small volumes it did well.
 
I've had a Hornady sonic cleaner & dryer for a good while. When I was competing with rifle and pistol had large amounts of brass to clean. The sonic cleaner took way too much time and the dryer took even more time. Went back to a media type. Now I use the sonic cleaner to clean my vape parts. Some of the parts can't be dissembled. I use Dawn detergent, hot water and dry them with a heat gun.
 
Blackmesa96 said:
Considering buying an ultrasonic unit to help clean and maintain the herd. Primarily expect to use it for bolts, BCGs and barrels. If it works as advertised, I could see using it on disassembled slides, frames, and the like.

Given the people on this forum appear to have a fairly good pool of knowledge, thought I would ask this group. I understand that ultrasonic cleaning will definitely remove oil and oily residue, but how good a job does it do on other types of firearm grime?

The idea of not having to disassemble a bolt or slide to thoroughly clean the inside surfaces is intriguing. My research tells me that the choice of cleaning solution is important. Also understand that it's necessary to follow cleaning with an oil bath of sorts.

Am I living in a dream world, or is this possible? Insight based on experience would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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i do not have one, and wish to not have one.

since i clean after every range visit?

what little crud there is, removes easily enough.

but many others on different websites, swear by them.

to me, if i had to "wash metal in water", then rinse, then quickly dry and oil..??

is more time consuming than regular cleaning.
 
Work vs. no work. You decide. 😉

Washing metal in water seems counterintuitive but it is common. Engine blocks are washed using a similar mix of water and solvent. AFA drying goes, a compresser speeds it up. Oiling has to be done anyway. The only things eliminated are scrubbing, scraping and cussing.

The ultrasonic cleaner also works great on calcium-encrusted plumbing parts and anything with chambers or passages.
 
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jschmidt said:
Work vs. no work. You decide. 😉

Washing metal in water seems counterintuitive but it is common. Engine blocks are washed using a similar mix of water and solvent. AFA drying goes, a compresser speeds it up. Oiling has to be done anyway. The only things eliminated are scrubbing, scraping and cussing.

The ultrasonic cleaner also works great on calcium-encrusted plumbing parts and anything with chambers or passages.
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well, washing an engine with water and solvents, is usually done on the exterior.

when i rebuilt engines, the block, and cylinder heads were sent out to a machine shop, that would dip them in an acid bath, that very quickly removes all the grease and crud.

then dipped into another solvent, to neutralize the acid, then dry the block, and heads.

if i recall, they were then put into an oven for drying.

from there, the block and heads were then sprayed with yet another chemical, if i recall, "magnaflux" to check for cracks, then dipped again in another solvent, and dried again.

so, not exactly water.
 
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Old_Me said:
well, washing an engine with water and solvents, is usually done on the exterior.

when i rebuilt engines, the block, and cylinder heads were sent out to a machine shop, that would dip them in an acid bath, that very quickly removes all the grease and crud.

then dipped into another solvent, to neutralize the acid, then dry the block, and heads.

if i recall, they were then put into an oven for drying.

from there, the block and heads were then sprayed with yet another chemical, if i recall, "magnaflux" to check for cracks, the dipped again in another solvent, and dried again.

so, not exactly water.
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And a straight edge to check block and heads. I'd rather get a new block that have 1 machined (well, depending on how much is needed).
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
And a straight edge to check block and heads. I'd rather get a new block that have 1 machined (well, depending on how much is needed).
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that's why it was "cost effective" to have the machine shop do the measurements, milling, acid dip, magnafluxing, honing or sleeving the cylinders...they had the perfect set up, over a garage for general repairs.

the engines of old, cast iron blocks and heads, could be worked, over a throw away aluminum.

even old Hemi engines where a rod got sent thru the block, can be repaired

now a days, one buys a crate engine.
 
Old_Me said:
that's why it was "cost effective" to have the machine shop do the measurements, milling, acid dip, magnafluxing, honing or sleeving the cylinders...they had the perfect set up, over a garage for general repairs.

the engines of old, cast iron blocks and heads, could be worked, over a throw away aluminum.

even old Hemi engines where a rod got sent thru the block, can be repaired

now a days, one buys a crate engine.
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i would tear down the engine, and a machinist would come over to my shop, and mic out the rods, crank journals, pistons, and a quick cylinder measurement as well, then it went to his shop for the rest, then a recommendation on how to proceed, either bore over, hone only, etc,etc.

i forget all the particulars, been like now nearly 50 or more (?) years

it just never was a "wash-rinse-repeat" process
 
Probably my fault here. I understand that the entire concept is counterintuitive.

Would really like to hear from some people who have actual experience with using an ultrasonic cleaner on firearms. Are they effective at cleaning the bore? Does the oil bath sufficiently lubricate hidden passages? These are the types of questions I have.

Thanks for understanding.
 
Blackmesa96 said:
Probably my fault here. I understand that the entire concept is counterintuitive.

Would really like to hear from some people who have actual experience with using an ultrasonic cleaner on firearms. Are they effective at cleaning the bore? Does the oil bath sufficiently lubricate hidden passages? These are the types of questions I have.

Thanks for understanding.
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I haven't used it for firearms ir parts, only brass.
 
Blackmesa96 said:
Probably my fault here. I understand that the entire concept is counterintuitive.

Would really like to hear from some people who have actual experience with using an ultrasonic cleaner on firearms. Are they effective at cleaning the bore? Does the oil bath sufficiently lubricate hidden passages? These are the types of questions I have.

Thanks for understanding.
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Not I, but my buddy uses it for BCGs. He loves it. You still have to take it apart. I wouldn’t put anything that wasn’t steel in there.

The wife uses one for her teeth though. 😊
 
I use a Lyman® 2500 to clean my handguns and have for years. I use the Lyman cleaning solution and am very pleased as it does an awesome job. After washing and drying I lubricate as required and reassemble the firearm.

I will continue to use my sonic cleaner to clean my handguns. One note of caution, however, is not to use for an aluminum-framed gun such as a J-frame Airweight®. The instructions specifically state that.

I recommend using it with confidence to clean your polymer and steel guns.
 
Dawei851 said:
I use a Lyman® 2500 to clean my handguns and have for years. I use the Lyman cleaning solution and am very pleased as it does an awesome job. After washing and drying I lubricate as required and reassemble the firearm.

I will continue to use my sonic cleaner to clean my handguns. One note of caution, however, is not to use for an aluminum-framed gun such as a J-frame Airweight®. The instructions specifically state that.

I recommend using it with confidence to clean your polymer and steel guns.
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Thanks!
 
Blackmesa96 said:
Probably my fault here. I understand that the entire concept is counterintuitive.

Would really like to hear from some people who have actual experience with using an ultrasonic cleaner on firearms. Are they effective at cleaning the bore? Does the oil bath sufficiently lubricate hidden passages? These are the types of questions I have.

Thanks for understanding.
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It's great. Mine gets a lot of use for barrels, slides and BCGs.

Got calcium on your plumbing fixtures? Works great for that too. And cleaning greasy fastening hardware. Mine gets a lot of use in the shop.
 
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