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Let's Clean them up! The Brass that is........

SMSgtRod

Professional
Founding Member
There are a number of ways to get from dirty brass to clean brass. I have used a couple and know of others. Here I'll relate about my experiences and count on others to chime in with more.

Reloading back in the 70's I used a rotary rock tumbler and crushed walnut shells (dry method) as the cleaning media. Was always happy with how they came out. I would decap first so the primer pockets got cleaned. Using carbide dies there is no concern for dirty unlubed brass during decapping.

Having sold everything out in the 90's for a relocation, got started again at the behest of my granddaughter in 2018. First I had to get myself updated on all the new things that were available. One was the wet washing method. Still use a rotary tumbler but for media stainless steel pins are used. Pins so small in diameter that they can easily pass through the primer flash hole. I watched some videos and decided to give it a try. All I can say is I love it. I'll never go back to the walnut shells.

The difference being that the walnut shells had to be discarded and replaced when dirty. Two years later I'm still using the same pins. Walnut shells would get stuck in the primer pocket and flash hole. I'd have to use a toothpick to clean them out. Pins have never been stuck for me in two years. Walnut shells leave dust, pins don't. Should I have a spill now, clean up is a cinch. Magnet!

Wet method requires water, pins, Dawn detergent and some Lemi-Shine as a booster that makes the brass sparkle. I think my brass these days is several times nicer than way back when. Primer pockets and even the inside of the cases are very clean and bright.

Another method is to use a Vibrating Tumbler. This is also dry and uses Crushed Corn Cob or maybe even Walnut shells. Hopefully a member will stop buy that uses it and fill us all in on the process.

Lastly we need a media separator. Something that gets our nice clean brass away from the media. I use the one pictured from Frankford. Dump the tumbler in to it, close up the cage, replace the lit and spin. Not real fast. When it sounds like a slow moving steam locomotive it's doing best..... I think.

I only have one bone to pick with the equipment I'm using. If you look at my tumbler it needs 6 wing nuts and washers to close it up. Looking around I see some tumblers that appear more geared to brass cleaning. If you have a tumbler you like I'd sure be interested in hearing about it. That's about it.... picture posted below.

Case Cleaning.jpg
 
Thanks for posting this, Sarge. The wet method is the way to go for those who do a lot of reloading. I am an occassional reloader and I use the dry, vibrating method. I would consider this method adequate for the small time reloader and those just getting started. It is less expensive so your initial investment won't be such a loss if, for some reason, you decide you don't want to continue reloading or you only reload 2-3 times a year.
 
Thanks for posting this, Sarge. The wet method is the way to go for those who do a lot of reloading. I am an occassional reloader and I use the dry, vibrating method. I would consider this method adequate for the small time reloader and those just getting started. It is less expensive so your initial investment won't be such a loss if, for some reason, you decide you don't want to continue reloading or you only reload 2-3 times a year.
Can be a difficult decision to make. Having used both I'd go with the rotary tumbler wet. Just not having the mess and the ease of separation. Plus I think wet brass method comes out a LOT cleaner. Especially the primer pockets. I don't have to brush them out. Primers seat fine.
I think starting with the dry method would be $100, wet method $200. For the difference, ease and great looking brass I'd have gladly started out with the wet method years ago. Except, it was invented yet. Wonder if Al Gore did that to? Thanks Al!!

What I would change is the tumbler I bought. Real pain with all those wing nuts. Gotta be a better way.
 
There are a number of ways to get from dirty brass to clean brass. I have used a couple and know of others. Here I'll relate about my experiences and count on others to chime in with more.

Reloading back in the 70's I used a rotary rock tumbler and crushed walnut shells (dry method) as the cleaning media. Was always happy with how they came out. I would decap first so the primer pockets got cleaned. Using carbide dies there is no concern for dirty unlubed brass during decapping.

Having sold everything out in the 90's for a relocation, got started again at the behest of my granddaughter in 2018. First I had to get myself updated on all the new things that were available. One was the wet washing method. Still use a rotary tumbler but for media stainless steel pins are used. Pins so small in diameter that they can easily pass through the primer flash hole. I watched some videos and decided to give it a try. All I can say is I love it. I'll never go back to the walnut shells.

The difference being that the walnut shells had to be discarded and replaced when dirty. Two years later I'm still using the same pins. Walnut shells would get stuck in the primer pocket and flash hole. I'd have to use a toothpick to clean them out. Pins have never been stuck for me in two years. Walnut shells leave dust, pins don't. Should I have a spill now, clean up is a cinch. Magnet!

Wet method requires water, pins, Dawn detergent and some Lemi-Shine as a booster that makes the brass sparkle. I think my brass these days is several times nicer than way back when. Primer pockets and even the inside of the cases are very clean and bright.

Another method is to use a Vibrating Tumbler. This is also dry and uses Crushed Corn Cob or maybe even Walnut shells. Hopefully a member will stop buy that uses it and fill us all in on the process.

Lastly we need a media separator. Something that gets our nice clean brass away from the media. I use the one pictured from Frankford. Dump the tumbler in to it, close up the cage, replace the lit and spin. Not real fast. When it sounds like a slow moving steam locomotive it's doing best..... I think.

I only have one bone to pick with the equipment I'm using. If you look at my tumbler it needs 6 wing nuts and washers to close it up. Looking around I see some tumblers that appear more geared to brass cleaning. If you have a tumbler you like I'd sure be interested in hearing about it. That's about it.... picture posted below.

View attachment 620
Question on the wet method - how long does it take to dry the brass out afterwards, and how do you do it? Oven, fan, ??

Thanks for the above! I'm doing the picture on the right at the moment. Always wiping shells down after the dry clean, and yes the dust is irritating. I take it outside to do the separation just for the fresh air and circulation.
 
Now that I have brass coming out my ears there is no need for a fast dry. Open air dry for a day or so at room temperature. Put them out side once to dry and mud dabbers started nesting in side them. Don't do that any more.

When I didn't have an abundance of brass, I'd spread them out on a cookie sheet, place in my over at 170° for about an hour. Using convection setting, 30 minutes does fine.

When wet cases are drying make sure that they are on their sides to allow air flow through them.

All those years I did the walnut shells, this wet wash I like a lot better. Some may not but I'll never go back.
 
I started out loading a mere 2 years ago this month. Bought lots of crushed corn cob and walnut shell. I also bought some blocks of jewelers rouge, shaving it into the media to add a polish to the brass. I would run my vibratory tumbler for 3 days, and then spend time poking the media out of the flash holes. The outsides looked okay, but the insides remained dark, and I’d have to clean the primer pockets. In time I learned about the F.A.R.T. and dropped the big bucks to get it and the media separator. After the first clean...for 3 hours vs 3 days...the cases came out too clean to ever consider dry tumbling again. I’ve read and watched numerous articles/videos from experienced shooters and reloaders arguing that clean or dirty makes no difference at all in accuracy, number of reloads, though some argue that dirty cases increase neck tension. None of it matters to me...it’s all esthetics to me. I like clean brass, and I don’t mind the extra effort.
Some argue for the following process, especially for rifle rounds.
1 shoot a bunch of ammo
2 collect the dirty brass
3 drop it in the dry media tumbler
4 deprime and resize the cases using your preferred case lube (swage primer pockets if new pickup)
5 trim the cases, anneal if desired/needed
6 drop the cases in the wet tumbler
7 dry with low heat, dehydrator, air, fans...whatever you prefer
8 reload the clean, shiny brass
repeat, or send the reloaded ammo to me

If anyone is near Dayton, OH and wants corn cob and/or walnut media, drop me a note and come get it. Several unopened MidSouth Shooters boxes - too heavy to ship economically.
 
I add Dillon brass shine a blue substance too rejuvenate the corn media. I have yet too clean 5.7x28. If they would make it in nickel it would be better. I don't see why it couldn't be made out of aluminum.
 
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I add Dillon brass shin a blue substance too rejuvenate the corn media. I have yet too clean 5.7x28. If they would make it in nickel it would be better. I don't see why it couldn't be made out of aluminum.
Pressure...no way aluminum can handle 55k psi. I saw where one 5.7x28 loader doesn’t tumble at all. He uses diluted Simple Green in a hand-agitated bucket, followed by air drying to preserve that lacquer coating. Claims he gets 5 or more reloads.
 
Ceramic Beads as Brass Cleaning Media. Click on the title.
4mm bead ceramic polishing media for brass
This looks really interesting. I’ve seen the results of pistol brass cleaned in a vibratory tumbler with soap and water. Incredible results, and no danger of media or steel pins jamming up your dies during resizing. I‘m betting they’ll work just as nicely in a F.A.R.T.
IMHO........Round beads will not in to right angle corners go! :ROFLMAO: So the Sarge will stay with the stainless steel pins that clean out the cases and primer pockets very well. I believe the ceramic will leave trash behind as they wear.
I have never had the pins be an issue being stuck in cases while reloading. Have washed tens of thousands of cases without one single issue. Of course I do run them for a bit in the separator.
 
IMHO........Round beads will not in to right angle corners go! :ROFLMAO: So the Sarge will stay with the stainless steel pins that clean out the cases and primer pockets very well. I believe the ceramic will leave trash behind as they wear.
I have never had the pins be an issue being stuck in cases while reloading. Have washed tens of thousands of cases without one single issue. Of course I do run them for a bit in the separator.
You’re most likely 100% right...I’ve had a few...very few pins show up while resizing. Everything comes out clean and shiny. I may get it anyway just for grins. I’ve bought some once fired cases that were tumbled in ceramic chips and they gleam like new. Much brighter and shinier than my pins have ever done.
 
You’re most likely 100% right...I’ve had a few...very few pins show up while resizing. Everything comes out clean and shiny. I may get it anyway just for grins. I’ve bought some once fired cases that were tumbled in ceramic chips and they gleam like new. Much brighter and shinier than my pins have ever done.
Wonder how a mix would work?

I use my pins in a tumbler with a squirt of Dawn and a shot of Lemi Shine. Brass looks really nice.
 
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I’ve recently acquired an ultrasonic cleaner. This pic is a batch of .45 ACP including once fired and some range pickup. These results are simply amazing. I also did a batch of 9mm prior to this, but I didn’t put in the proper amount of cleaner, plus, I did them in a plastic basket, which absorbs 30% of the ultrasonic energy. Subsequent to that I picked up a stainless steel bucket that absorbs 8%.
I was a quick convert to steel pin tumbling, and I remain convinced that it does the best at cleaning everything! However, for the amount of effort involved ultrasonic wins hands down. I‘ll have to try another batch of small primer pocket brass and see how the ultrasonic works then.

9B450CE4-E5D2-478D-8EA8-8F6843863AE7.jpeg
 
There are a number of ways to get from dirty brass to clean brass. I have used a couple and know of others. Here I'll relate about my experiences and count on others to chime in with more.

Reloading back in the 70's I used a rotary rock tumbler and crushed walnut shells (dry method) as the cleaning media. Was always happy with how they came out. I would decap first so the primer pockets got cleaned. Using carbide dies there is no concern for dirty unlubed brass during decapping.

Having sold everything out in the 90's for a relocation, got started again at the behest of my granddaughter in 2018. First I had to get myself updated on all the new things that were available. One was the wet washing method. Still use a rotary tumbler but for media stainless steel pins are used. Pins so small in diameter that they can easily pass through the primer flash hole. I watched some videos and decided to give it a try. All I can say is I love it. I'll never go back to the walnut shells.

The difference being that the walnut shells had to be discarded and replaced when dirty. Two years later I'm still using the same pins. Walnut shells would get stuck in the primer pocket and flash hole. I'd have to use a toothpick to clean them out. Pins have never been stuck for me in two years. Walnut shells leave dust, pins don't. Should I have a spill now, clean up is a cinch. Magnet!

Wet method requires water, pins, Dawn detergent and some Lemi-Shine as a booster that makes the brass sparkle. I think my brass these days is several times nicer than way back when. Primer pockets and even the inside of the cases are very clean and bright.

Another method is to use a Vibrating Tumbler. This is also dry and uses Crushed Corn Cob or maybe even Walnut shells. Hopefully a member will stop buy that uses it and fill us all in on the process.

Lastly we need a media separator. Something that gets our nice clean brass away from the media. I use the one pictured from Frankford. Dump the tumbler in to it, close up the cage, replace the lit and spin. Not real fast. When it sounds like a slow moving steam locomotive it's doing best..... I think.

I only have one bone to pick with the equipment I'm using. If you look at my tumbler it needs 6 wing nuts and washers to close it up. Looking around I see some tumblers that appear more geared to brass cleaning. If you have a tumbler you like I'd sure be interested in hearing about it. That's about it.... picture posted below.

View attachment 620
I use the vibrating cleaner with crushed corncob. It can be nasty but it gets MOST brass pretty clean. Some of it is just a loss cause and goes in the "melt" bag (I melt down a fair brass, and other metals, and use it for other projects. Petrobond casting sand is great for my artistic side) The corncob does make a nasty mess, and I haven't used walnut yet. Has anyone tried the pins in a vibrating cleaner? I hadn't heard of that before but it sounds great. Popping crushed walnut out of the primer hole takes more time than I like.
 
I’ve recently acquired an ultrasonic cleaner. This pic is a batch of .45 ACP including once fired and some range pickup. These results are simply amazing. I also did a batch of 9mm prior to this, but I didn’t put in the proper amount of cleaner, plus, I did them in a plastic basket, which absorbs 30% of the ultrasonic energy. Subsequent to that I picked up a stainless steel bucket that absorbs 8%.
I was a quick convert to steel pin tumbling, and I remain convinced that it does the best at cleaning everything! However, for the amount of effort involved ultrasonic wins hands down. I‘ll have to try another batch of small primer pocket brass and see how the ultrasonic works then.

View attachment 2257
I'm kind of stuck on having really clean cases. I might try a mix of ceramics with the pins. Still doubt
that I'll go ultrasonic any time soon.
 
I'm kind of stuck on having really clean cases. I might try a mix of ceramics with the pins. Still doubt
that I'll go ultrasonic any time soon.
I resized all of the 45 ACP cases from my last post. They were squeaky clean. Though I’m always impressed with the cleanliness of my pin tumbled brass, I still have to wear gloves when processing, and the gloves are always filthy when I’m done with a session.
I began to consider lubing the cases, as I felt their too clean status was making more work for my press...and me. I’m only two batches into this process, and I haven’t tried my .300 AAC BLK cases as yet.
The only reason I even picked up an ultrasonic cleaner was I could get a $350+ cleaner for $150. Grizzle.com has the Bald Eagle 6 L ultrasonic cleaner on clearance. This is the exact same model as the RCBS ultrasonic cleaner, except it’s not green, and comes with a plastic basket versus the stainless basket and bucket included in the RCBS version. Both are the same model as the iSonic P4862 which retails for $455, though it comes with the plastic basket that I have, as well as the stainless bucket that I bought from Amazon for $28.
For all the other, marvelous reasons to have an ultrasonic cleaner, I highly recommend the Bald Eagle version from grizzly.
 
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