testtest

Let's see your AR setups...

Because I had a spare upper, I decided to build a "cheap" AR from it. Spare red dot and hand brake saved some money too.
Mil-Spec lower kit - $60 (on sale)
Del-Ton lower - $60
Anderson BCG - $60 (on sale)

Then a friend of mine Cerakote the hand guard, upper and lower in FDE. Then Cerakote the handbrake, charging handle, QD mount and rail collar in Armor Black.

I think the two tone is pretty awesome.

STUNtM6.jpg
 
Well, the carry handle channel, and base got cleaned and degreased, then bedded with Permatex (the blue kind), and remounted.
And today I did the same thing with the rings to the Aimpoint tube. Now it'll have the next four days to setup and cure before the next range trip.
 
USMC6094 said:
Well, the carry handle channel, and base got cleaned and degreased, then bedded with Permatex (the blue kind), and remounted.
And today I did the same thing with the rings to the Aimpoint tube. Now it'll have the next four days to setup and cure before the next range trip.
Click to expand...
Why would you do that ?
 
stag arms AR10, lower, upper and barrel, but hand guard is M lok, not stag.
luth AR mod 3/4 stock m lock grab handle up front
tru glow scope with sun shade, bipod and mlock attached strap ,
added the limbsaver last week to the stock and the vented wing tactical muzzle brake
 

Attachments

  • october upgrades (3).jpg
    october upgrades (3).jpg
    711.7 KB · Views: 117
  • october upgrades (4).jpg
    october upgrades (4).jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 131
  • october upgrades (2).jpg
    october upgrades (2).jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 118
  • stag arms AR 10 308.jpg
    stag arms AR 10 308.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 118
Bassbob said:
Why would you do that ?
Click to expand...

The entire assembly was moving during the recoil impulse, the Blue Permatex basically beds the mount to the carry handle channel, and is not Red threadlocker permanent.
I've bedded most of my scope bases with blue Permatex or Loctite of the same type.
And you can only mechanically lock something so much before you damage something.
 
i left out a thing about the scope
its a tru glo eminus 6-24 x 50 mm i try to stay within the max of 200 yards for any targeted item, whether is a pig or a target. most are 100 yards or closer. 308 travels to far imo, to not 100% know whats out there past 200 yards.
i am not a scope guy, but I am handicapped in the vision area. i found this scope allows me to pull in the target with the zoom lever after i have used the distance knob on the side to focus to determine the estimated distance.. i have never been trained on this scope, just learned from playing with it and walking out a hundred yards to compare what it told me vs reality...its dammm close
i zeroed the scope at 100 yards with a lase boresight. so anything over the 100 makes it easy for me to adjust and touch the target where i like.

i probably could have gotten away with a less pricey model. but the armorer that built the rifle was not pushing in its recommendation, but he did know a lot about it and setting it up in the store
 
USMC6094 said:
The entire assembly was moving during the recoil impulse, the Blue Permatex basically beds the mount to the carry handle channel, and is not Red threadlocker permanent.
I've bedded most of my scope bases with blue Permatex or Loctite of the same type.
And you can only mechanically lock something so much before you damage something.
Click to expand...
Hmm. I never heard of anyone doing that. I've personally never had reason to, but I am not doubting yours.
 
Installed the Strike Industries JCOMP Gen2 muzzle brake. Although removing the A2 flash hider isn't necessary because of the maglock, I wanted to change it anyway.

For us in California....I don't like the fin grip....

Also installed the ARMaglock Gen 4 and Kingpin. Once you push the Kingpin in, it breaks the action ever so slightly so you can push in the Maglock like a traditional mag release button.

I think I'm going to replace the Cross Armory fixed mag lock and QuickPins with this ARMaglock/Kingpin set up on the other AR.

xEEkRId.jpg


qAROeUf.jpg


q9Pr0Zt.jpg
 
RikersBeard said:
Installed the Strike Industries JCOMP Gen2 muzzle brake. Although removing the A2 flash hider isn't necessary because of the maglock, I wanted to change it anyway.

For us in California....I don't like the fin grip....

Also installed the ARMaglock Gen 4 and Kingpin. Once you push the Kingpin in, it breaks the action ever so slightly so you can push in the Maglock like a traditional mag release button.

I think I'm going to replace the Cross Armory fixed mag lock and QuickPins with this ARMaglock/Kingpin set up on the other AR.

xEEkRId.jpg


qAROeUf.jpg


q9Pr0Zt.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks nice, very nice! I agree with you, the fin grip looks completely retarded
 
Ran the new build yesterday. :D

Only put 100 rounds. Only two mis-feeds, but I think it's due to these 10-round Magpul magazines because it's happened before with the other AR. When I use standard capacity magazines, I have no issues.

WzDpnrJ.jpg


And then tried the CMMG .22LR conversion kit. Nearly zero issues.
Ran 3 slightly different rimfire cartridges to see which would do well. Shot 25 rounds of each.
  • Aguila Super Extra - 1,130 fps (6 mis-feeds)
  • Aguila Super Extra - 1,255 fps (no mis-feeds)
  • Federal Champion Training- 1,200 fps (1 mis-feed)

It was fun shooting .22LR from an AR platform. Barely any recoil at all. Anecdotally, it seems the 1,255 fps Aguila shoots the best. But, 100+ yards, all of these fly a bit. Still need to shoot it a bit more before I determine whether I should get the Bore Buddy. And if I should build a dedicated .22LR upper.

gjhXarT.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top