I followed the manufacturer's method on a precision rifle but nothing on the AR platform. I usually don't shoot too much on a new barrel anyway and I will more likely function test and clean it.Do you break yours in ?
I followed the manufacturer's method on a precision rifle but nothing on the AR platform. I usually don't shoot too much on a new barrel anyway and I will more likely function test and clean it.Do you break yours in ?
Am wondering if bore paste treatment may work likewise in breaking in barrel too?On a precision barrel, it’s recommended.
I did an abbreviated version on my M1A this summer.
I’m a little far out from this project so I’m not positive exactly what I’m actually going for yet. The assumption for this rifle at the moment is for the range, so maybe a 20” barrel and decent glass. Try to be on target out to maybe 400 yards. I already have a 16” nice running “ Beater” rifle and am in the middle of my “Budget” 10.5” pistol build.What’s you purpose for this rifle? I’ll start of by saying I’m all about saving money but are you wanting a rifle that is going to shoot 2-3” at 100 yards or are you wanting a rifle that is sub MOA at 100 yards? If it’s a a sub MOA rifle, and read this part as I’m not saying they don’t do it, then I’d be looking at a stainless barrel, 416R over a CL barrel. Again not saying a CL barrel won’t shoot 1” but they are for longevity not accuracy, in comparison to stainless barrels.
I also don’t put a lot of stock in my lower as in the “brand” I “prefer” some over others and I personally don’t care for billet. I have seen some of the lower tier lowers and uppers be out of spec. For a good base or budget build it’s hard to pass on Aero or Spikes. Myself and others have had good luck with them. Again not saying you or anyone else wouldn’t with Anderson or Bear Creek.
It’s been said, I’ve said it, do not cut corners on your barrel and trigger. If you talk to any competent shooter he/she will tell you what the “heart” of any rifle is. I’m well aware of the person behind the trigger but do yourself a favor and get the best barrel you can and also get a good trigger. So many excellent companies run sales on holidays.
So, what is your target size goal (assuming you’re doing your part) at 400 yards? 2”? 4”? 8“? Your Witch Doctor should be capable of “Minute of Silhouette” at 400...I’m a little far out from this project so I’m not positive exactly what I’m actually going for yet. The assumption for this rifle at the moment is for the range, so maybe a 20” barrel and decent glass. Try to be on target out to maybe 400 yards. I already have a 16” nice running “ Beater” rifle and am in the middle of my “Budget” 10.5” pistol build.
I have faith in Anderson lowers and the PSA I put the pistol together with seems just as good. My focus on the next one, the topic of this thread, will be barrel, trigger and BCG. It’s going to be an Anderson lower since I have a couple on hand.
Well it’s highly likely the biggest margin of error is going to be me and not the gun. I’m not overly educated on my options, hence why I started this thread. I figure I have a pistol and a carbine so I’m just looking at the logical next step. Historically I am happy if I can consistently hit the vitals on a deer. Generally at much shorter distances than 400 yards too. So I’d be happy to consistently hit an 8 or 6 inch circle at that distance. I’d be happy to at least try to stretch that distance out to its farthest logical point too.So, what is your target size goal (assuming you’re doing your part) at 400 yards? 2”? 4”? 8“? Your Witch Doctor should be capable of “Minute of Silhouette” at 400...
Just trying to get a feel for where to steer you.
So; for deer hunting, are you going to be looking at calibers other than .223/5.56? Just want to confirm that .223 is a deer legal caliber in your state (or where you plan to hunt)...wasn’t here in MN until just a few years ago.Well it’s highly likely the biggest margin of error is going to be me and not the gun. I’m not overly educated on my options, hence why I started this thread. I figure I have a pistol and a carbine so I’m just looking at the logical next step. Historically I am happy if I can consistently hit the vitals on a deer. Generally at much shorter distances than 400 yards too. So I’d be happy to consistently hit an 8 or 6 inch circle at that distance. I’d be happy to at least try to stretch that distance out to its farthest logical point too.
I'm not planning on using an AR for deer hunting Hans. I have a safe full of deer rifles already. Nevertheless I am absolutely not ruling out the Grendel or even 300 blk. I'm not ruling anything out. I'm just trying to get some ideas. I used deer hunting as the only example of me shooting long(ish) distances.So; for deer hunting, are you going to be looking at calibers other than .223/5.56? Just want to confirm that .223 is a deer legal caliber in your state (or where you plan to hunt)...wasn’t here in MN until just a few years ago.
Because 6.5 Grendel or 6.8 SPCII might be a pretty good option; both really perform well at 3-600 yards, and both still use the small chassis AR receivers.
Gotcha.I'm not planning on using an AR for deer hunting Hans. I have a safe full of deer rifles already. Nevertheless I am absolutely not ruling out the Grendel or even 300 blk. I'm not ruling anything out. I'm just trying to get some ideas. I used deer hunting as the only example of me shooting long(ish) distances.
Gotcha.
400 yards is pretty much out of .300BO's wheelhouse, so that’s pretty much off the table, I’d think; that proba ly would've been a better candidate for your pistol...another future project, amiright?
Really, for a longer range setup built on a small chassis...6.5Grendel is hard to beat. Has the benefit of inexpensive steel cased ammo being available (well...it was...might be again?) that was still surprisingly accurate. I had a 12.5” 6.5G pistol that had no problems ringing the 4” gongs at 200 yards with that steel cased Wolf ammo; sold it last year when prices started getting stupid, along with my ammo...I think the build was:
Stag Lower/Keyhole Upper receivers
Faxon (?) barrel
Troy Alpha rail
Fail Zero BCG
JP Precision trigger
Strike Eagle 1-6
I still have the lower; just let the upper go.
.300blk is awesome for shooting suppressed especially with subsonic ammo.I considered .300 blk for my pistol, but jeez, the ammo is insane. Definitely may consider it in the future though.
.300 BLK has not only gotten expensive, but also hard to come by. I don’t have a suppressor for mine and the only ammo I’ve seen locally has been some subsonic here and there, which I really don’t want at this point. Haven’t seen full velocity .300 BLK for quite a while..300blk is awesome for shooting suppressed especially with subsonic ammo.
Pre-covid you could find ammo for roughly 50¢ a round which was almost double the price of 5.56
I'm having the opposite experience in NH with supersonic .300blk on the shelves but no subsonic..300 BLK has not only gotten expensive, but also hard to come by. I don’t have a suppressor for mine and the only ammo I’ve seen locally has been some subsonic here and there, which I really don’t want at this point. Haven’t seen full velocity .300 BLK for quite a while.