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Lucas oil

Shibadog said:
Question? Is the Lucas oil you’re using really “oil” or is it a synthetic? “Some” synthetics basically evaporate-dunno if that applies here or no, but worth checking..
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Extreme Duty Gun Oil​

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is a special blend of oil and petroleum-extracted additives producing a lubrication specially formulated for high volume, high heat and friction firearms.

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is designed for semi-auto rifles, shotguns and pistols as well as full auto firearms and suppressors. It offers superior burn-off resistance. Its polymeric film protects metal from rust, moisture and dramatically reduces wear during all shooting conditions.

Applying Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil to bores, bolt carriers and gas pistons makes clean-up of powder residue, copper and carbon fouling a much easier task. Apply a light coat to suppressor baffles and mounts to resist carbon build up and to make cleaning quicker and easier. It neutralizes acids from fingerprints and resists drying for long term storage use.

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is great for lubrication on all high heat high use firearms and NFA items.
 
I have some Lucas gun oil. I don’t recall where or why I bought it. I haven’t used it on any guns, but I use it on knives. I haven’t noticed it being any different than any other oil. I don’t have a problem with Rem Oil either. I have a S ton of different oils. These days I’m most likely to use the Wilson Combat or Slip 2000 on guns.

Lucas Extreme Duty CLP is my main AR cleaner/lube, except that I use Seal 1 in the bore and I lube the BCGs with a combination of things, none of which are CLP.
 
ok, so i took my Dan Wesson Pointman PM 45 to the club this morning, shot off 100 rounds of my older reloaded ammo, lead bullets.......makes me appreciate that i made the switch over to the poly coated bullets, and little to NO smoke from them..

ok, the data, i have available..

last week when i started this thread, i had taken my Glock G-44, a .22LR caliber handgun....

i LOVE that 22, and hope to have it a long time.

here is an excerpt from posting #1

"today i took my G-44 to the club, and when i got it home, and field stripped it, the slide's rails were "drier" than say a 1911 would be

inside the slide, where the barrel will travel, was "drier" than a 1911 would be.

so, here is a question or 2, or 3..."

now, sorry to say, i did not think to take any pics of the field strip.

more data.....the last time i took that gun to the club was Feb. 27th, 2024....

cleaned/lubed it with Lucas Extreme Duty

today, i took my D/W, last time out was, Mar. 19th, 2024, so only a month later

cleaned and lubed with Lucas as well..

however, this time, i took pics..

i can only hope the oil shows, after i field stripped it


there IS oil inside this slide, the GLock on the other hand, same location on the slide, was BONE DRY

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and here, you can see the rails, and there IS oil here too..

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so could i be right, that the polymer Glock, absorbed the Lucas?

and the all metal D/W did not..??

given that BOTH materials are porous at least under a microscope

again, just a month between last range visits for both, so either 5 or 6 months at the most each..???
 
i found this, however, it seems to apply to oil spills/clean ups.......but it does mention that polymer does have pores, that absorbs...



Can polymer absorb oil?


Oil Spill Cleanup - Gelfand Center - Carnegie Mellon University


The polymer attracts and absorbs the oil within its pores, encapsulating it and preventing its release. Once the particles are "full" of oil, they adhere to one another and form a semi-solid mass that can be handled and disposed easier.
 
Old_Me said:
ok, not a debate, or discussion all over again for the zillionth time, but "just an observation" with my experience with Lucas Extreme Duty oil.....and NOT a thread on which is the best oil/grease"

...PLEASE let's NOT go there.

1st) i like this oil, been using now for almost a full year now.

2nd) what i have found is that on "some guns" this oil seems to dissipate (??) in as little as 6 months.

3) cases in point, i have all my 1911's lubed with Lucas, and the time from last cleaning/lubing till the next range visit can be 5 to 8 months away....i have all my 9mm guns (metal made) as well.......lubed with Lucas. Revolvers too.

when i field strip after a range visit, i can honestly say, i do see oil in the rails, and on the barrel hood. (on ALL my metal guns)

today i took my G-44 to the club, and when i got it home, and field stripped it, the slide's rails were "drier" than say a 1911 would be

inside the slide, where the barrel will travel, was "drier" than a 1911 would be.

so, here is a question or 2, or 3...

both materials are porous, and probably have of course a different absorption rate of the oil, so does it make sense that the polymer guns soak up or absorb the oils faster than the all metal guns"?

all guns are stored in a locked cabinet, with large desiccant bags, and a dehumidifier running..no guns show signs of rust......

yes, the rails on polymer guns are metal as are the 1911's, but the oil can and does "migrate" from the rails.

Again, just an observation, not another "what's best" thread.
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Not sure here….you are talking about lubes and have a picture of Barbara Eden. Have I wandered into a “different” thread?
 
3L120 said:
Not sure here….you are talking about lubes and have a picture of Barbara Eden. Have I wandered into a “different” thread?
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i change out my avatar every so often.

as an old man, i appreciate good looking ladies.

and it's the only time i can look at one or 41 of them and my wife just rolls her eyes.

if i do that when we go to the mall, then i get the usual elbow in the gut.

damn those micro mini skirts, damn them to HELLLLLLLLLL........!!!!!!!!!
 
The Night Rider said:
Before you get into all that, were both guns lubed on the same day? Were they both lubed with the same amount of oil? Were they stored in the same circumstances?

Any one of those things could change the outcome
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1 month apart, both lubed as equally as possible with Lucas, both stored in the cabinets, with large desiccant bags in each cabinet, and the dehumidifier running.

i apply lube, then lightly wipe away with a Q-tip, or a clean patch, just a thin film, not puddles.
 
ok, taking my G-17 Wednesday to the club...i just a did a quick field strip, to "check" for oil on the rails and inside the slides hood area.

you can see the barrel has lube, due to some lint that sows...but the barrel hood and the area inside the slide where the barrel slides on, are bone dry....??

gun was last used back in March, close to the time the DAn Wesson, and the G-44 was used, and then cleaned and lubed...

this G-17 however, is my "bedroom gun, kept in its clamshell case.

also, the slide is all metal, like the 1911...however, the G-44 has a plastic slide.

how can the barrel still show oil on it, but the hood and mating surfaces are dry.>???

the rails do show oil, and this gun "sits" right side up as if in a shooting position.

just a mystery as to why the hood and mating surfaces are dry, on an all metal slide.

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I apply red grease on the rails and locking lugs on my 1911s and apply a drop or two of oil on the barrel where it goes through the barrel bushing. I use gun oil on my other pistols on the rails and barrel. A few drops at each end of the rails and one or two on the barrel end. Then I rack them at least 3 or 4 times and wipe off any external oil or goo.
If they sit for a long time, I add a few drops to the rails, rack them a few and wipe off any excess. They are good to go.
The 1911s get cleaned after every match and the others after each range session.

I haven't noticed any gun going dry after cleaning and lubing. My cowboy guns get cleaned when crunchy, sticky or the chambers are overly fouled. Our lightnings require more and get cleaned every 3-4 matches.

If you have issues with a particular lube, switch to something else, there are a crapload out there.
 
youngolddude said:
I apply red grease on the rails and locking lugs on my 1911s and apply a drop or two of oil on the barrel where it goes through the barrel bushing. I use gun oil on my other pistols on the rails and barrel. A few drops at each end of the rails and one or two on the barrel end. Then I rack them at least 3 or 4 times and wipe off any external oil or goo.
If they sit for a long time, I add a few drops to the rails, rack them a few and wipe off any excess. They are good to go.
The 1911s get cleaned after every match and the others after each range session.

I haven't noticed any gun going dry after cleaning and lubing. My cowboy guns get cleaned when crunchy, sticky or the chambers are overly fouled. Our lightnings require more and get cleaned every 3-4 matches.

If you have issues with a particular lube, switch to something else, there are a crapload out there.
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thing is, it seems like all the "oils" do this, from Hoppes, to Rem oil, to Weapon Shield, to Gibbs, to FP-10, to Mobil 1.......

as you can see, i have many different oils, i have switched from.

it has been more of an "observation" than a complaint.
 
Old_Me said:
thing is, it seems like all the "oils" do this, from Hoppes, to Rem oil, to Weapon Shield, to Gibbs, to FP-10, to Mobil 1.......

as you can see, i have many different oils, i have switched from.

it has been more of an "observation" than a complaint.
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I personally don’t worry about if any of my guns that may go dry, before I take any out to shoot, I field strip them and re-lube again just to make sure.
 
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