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My first time firing a .45ACP Springfield 1911…thoughts and one issue

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neil0311

Master Class
Bought my first 1911 (and first .45ACP firearm) a couple of weeks ago. It’s a new SA parkerized Milspec M1911A1-ish clone. Also got 3 additional SA 7 round GI blued mags, exactly the same as the one that came in the box with the pistol.

Today was the first chance I had to go put 200 rounds through it. Here are my initial thoughts and a question (related to one issue).

First, getting the slide stop back on the pistol after cleaning/lube was a nightmare. YouTube videos and the manual weren’t much help. I finally called Springfield and they told me I have to use a pen or other tool to depress the plunger so the slide stop will click in place. That’s useful info that would have been nice to know beforehand. So much for the “idiot scratch”…I’m an idiot I guess.

The pistol was very accurate. I had never fired a 1911 before, and I was getting tight groups center mass at 10 and 15 yards. Amazing accuracy, and probably I was the weak link.

The one issue was a strange one. Not every time, but probably 1 out of 3 times, when I hit the mag release, the slide would drop too. No issues with the slide locking back when empty, and no failures to load or eject. Anyone ever see the slide drop after locking back when ejecting an empty mag?

Not terrible for the first time ever shooting a 1911 or .45ACP.
 

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Congrats on your 1911 purchase, trust me it won’t be your last one, yea my SA RO Operator’s slide stop is real tight to put back in due to the tight plunger spring, my new Colt Classic is the same way, again congrats and enjoy your pistol. Also, if you want, go to the thread, Show your 1911 and post a pic of your new gun.
 
neil0311 said:
Bought my first 1911 (and first .45ACP firearm) a couple of weeks ago. It’s a new SA parkerized Milspec M1911A1-ish clone. Also got 3 additional SA 7 round GI blued mags, exactly the same as the one that came in the box with the pistol.

Today was the first chance I had to go put 200 rounds through it. Here are my initial thoughts and a question (related to one issue).

First, getting the slide stop back on the pistol after cleaning/lube was a nightmare. YouTube videos and the manual weren’t much help. I finally called Springfield and they told me I have to use a pen or other tool to depress the plunger so the slide stop will click in place. That’s useful info that would have been nice to know beforehand. So much for the “idiot scratch”…I’m an idiot I guess.

The pistol was very accurate. I had never fired a 1911 before, and I was getting tight groups center mass at 10 and 15 yards. Amazing accuracy, and probably I was the weak link.

The one issue was a strange one. Not every time, but probably 1 out of 3 times, when I hit the mag release, the slide would drop too. No issues with the slide locking back when empty, and no failures to load or eject. Anyone ever see the slide drop after locking back when ejecting an empty mag?

Not terrible for the first time ever shooting a 1911 or .45ACP.
Click to expand...
Congrats !!

My guess on the slide dropping upon mag release is you are not realizing that you are hitting the slide lock at the same time with the other part of your thumb or hand.

Without a mag in the gun, and the slide back in the locked position, how hard is the slide release lever?

Super stiff to use or super easy to drop the slide ?
 
The SA parkerized Milspec is basically look-a-like to the M1911A1.

The slide isn't anywhere near being a clone of the USGI M1911A1 slide. The sights and ejection port are not-clonish, but model appeals to the minimalist user group.

The USGI model that SA made a few years ago was much more accurate, as is the SDS USGI model.
 
I'm willing to wager the slide dropping when you eject the mag is happening with one mag in particular. With that mag, the follower isn’t allowing the slide stop to fully lock, and is just barely holding it in place with mag spring tension; when you drop the mag, the slide is released. Another possibility is that the magazine is slightly dragging on the slide stop when it ejects…

Try numbering your mags and see if one mag is the culprit.
 
HansGruber said:
I'm willing to wager the slide dropping when you eject the mag is happening with one mag in particular. With that mag, the follower isn’t allowing the slide stop to fully lock, and is just barely holding it in place with mag spring tension; when you drop the mag, the slide is released. Another possibility is that the magazine is slightly dragging on the slide stop when it ejects…

Try numbering your mags and see if one mag is the culprit.
Click to expand...
This...
 
Talyn said:
The SA parkerized Milspec is basically look-a-like to the M1911A1.

The slide isn't anywhere near being a clone of the USGI M1911A1 slide. The sights and ejection port are not-clonish, but model appeals to the minimalist user group.

The USGI model that SA made a few years ago was much more accurate, as is the SDS USGI model.
Click to expand...
Yup understood, which is why I said “M1911A1-ish”
 
KillerFord1977 said:
My guess on the slide dropping upon mag release is you are not realizing that you are hitting the slide lock at the same time with the other part of your thumb or hand.

Without a mag in the gun, and the slide back in the locked position, how hard is the slide release lever?

Super stiff to use or super easy to drop the slide ?
Click to expand...

Definitely not touching or hitting the slide stop at all when dropping the mag. Paid close attention to that to be sure.

The slide drops fairly easily when unloaded and no mag. Of course the ghosts of 1,000 YouTube videos rose up to tell me I’ll shoot my eye out for doing it. 😁
 
neil0311 said:
Bought my first 1911 (and first .45ACP firearm) a couple of weeks ago. It’s a new SA parkerized Milspec M1911A1-ish clone. Also got 3 additional SA 7 round GI blued mags, exactly the same as the one that came in the box with the pistol.

Today was the first chance I had to go put 200 rounds through it. Here are my initial thoughts and a question (related to one issue).

First, getting the slide stop back on the pistol after cleaning/lube was a nightmare. YouTube videos and the manual weren’t much help. I finally called Springfield and they told me I have to use a pen or other tool to depress the plunger so the slide stop will click in place. That’s useful info that would have been nice to know beforehand. So much for the “idiot scratch”…I’m an idiot I guess.

The pistol was very accurate. I had never fired a 1911 before, and I was getting tight groups center mass at 10 and 15 yards. Amazing accuracy, and probably I was the weak link.

The one issue was a strange one. Not every time, but probably 1 out of 3 times, when I hit the mag release, the slide would drop too. No issues with the slide locking back when empty, and no failures to load or eject. Anyone ever see the slide drop after locking back when ejecting an empty mag?

Not terrible for the first time ever shooting a 1911 or .45ACP.
Click to expand...
i only have 3 S/A 1911's as of now, and each one is a PITA to get that slide stop back in.

what i do is, i use a "mini" screw driver to push it back. at the same time, using a thin piece of plastic, like my AAA membership card under it, to avoid scratching.

some guys, simply buy a Wilson Combat slide stop, some guys gently file down the stop so it goes past that speing easier.

i prefer my way.
 
Old_Me said:
what i do is, i use a "mini" screw driver to push it back. at the same time, using a thin piece of plastic, like my AAA membership card under it, to avoid scratching.
Click to expand...
Yeah, after calling Springfield I realized that the plunger had to be pushed in. By then the scratches were already visible.

I’m not that concerned as she’s not a safe Queen. She’s for shooting, and it’s one of the reasons I got a relatively inexpensive plain parkerized model for my first 1911. This way I can make the mistakes and learn, and then if I choose to get another (more expensive) 1911, I will have already learned the best practices and made the newbie mistakes. 🙂

Is there a way to touch up parkerizing the way you can use Birchwood Casey for touching up bluing on steel or for aluminum anodizing?
 
neil0311 said:
Yeah, after calling Springfield I realized that the plunger had to be pushed in. By then the scratches were already visible.

I’m not that concerned as she’s not a safe Queen. She’s for shooting, and it’s one of the reasons I got a relatively inexpensive plain parkerized model for my first 1911. This way I can make the mistakes and learn, and then if I choose to get another (more expensive) 1911, I will have already learned the best practices and made the newbie mistakes. 🙂

Is there a way to touch up parkerizing the way you can use Birchwood Casey for touching up bluing on steel or for aluminum anodizing?
Click to expand...
A Sharpie pen, seriously, works good
 
neil0311 said:
Yeah, after calling Springfield I realized that the plunger had to be pushed in. By then the scratches were already visible.

I’m not that concerned as she’s not a safe Queen. She’s for shooting, and it’s one of the reasons I got a relatively inexpensive plain parkerized model for my first 1911. This way I can make the mistakes and learn, and then if I choose to get another (more expensive) 1911, I will have already learned the best practices and made the newbie mistakes. 🙂

Is there a way to touch up parkerizing the way you can use Birchwood Casey for touching up bluing on steel or for aluminum anodizing?
Click to expand...
well, i also have that new S/A Emissary....

same thing with that plunger...

and that Emissary, ain't cheap. nearly the price of either of my Dan Wesson's.
 
The other thing I noticed is the brass seems to be hitting the slide and has already rubbed away the parkerizing.

The ejecting brass was flying, but I don’t have anything to compare it to. Was using 230 grain FMJ WWB ammo.

Is it typical to see this kind of mark behind the ejection port on these?
 

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neil0311 said:
The other thing I noticed is the brass seems to be hitting the slide and has already rubbed away the parkerizing.

The ejecting brass was flying, but I don’t have anything to compare it to. Was using 230 grain FMJ WWB ammo.

Is it typical to see this kind of mark behind the ejection port on these?
Click to expand...
Yea, it can happen, that’s why on higher end 1911’s they have this section scalloped out liked in pic I’m showing here, no worries

1632604403579.jpeg

Also, you also may notice on some 1911’s, the ejector may be slightly loose, especially in the rear of ejector, this to is normal, they are pinned in and won’t come off or get looser just an FYI
 
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Old_Me said:
i only have 3 S/A 1911's as of now, and each one is a PITA to get that slide stop back in.

what i do is, i use a "mini" screw driver to push it back. at the same time, using a thin piece of plastic, like my AAA membership card under it, to avoid scratching.

some guys, simply buy a Wilson Combat slide stop, some guys gently file down the stop so it goes past that speing easier.

i prefer my way.
Click to expand...
I do the same I didn’t want to file it back
 
neil0311 said:
Yeah, after calling Springfield I realized that the plunger had to be pushed in. By then the scratches were already visible.

I’m not that concerned as she’s not a safe Queen. She’s for shooting, and it’s one of the reasons I got a relatively inexpensive plain parkerized model for my first 1911. This way I can make the mistakes and learn, and then if I choose to get another (more expensive) 1911, I will have already learned the best practices and made the newbie mistakes. 🙂

Is there a way to touch up parkerizing the way you can use Birchwood Casey for touching up bluing on steel or for aluminum anodizing?
Click to expand...
Not at all trying to imply idiot but someone recently listed this website called idiotscratch.com. I had lost all my favorites when I got a new computer but this site sells a piece to use to help prevent scratching your 1911.
 
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