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New Saint Edge PDW owner - Blast Diverter question

Not sure if mentioned earlier, the gun is brand new, never shot. This is just something I do with all my guns to inspect, clean, modify, etc. When it comes to barrels I do not mess around and always go to my gunsmith. It just seems odd that 2 gunsmiths, literally 260+ pound beasts, can not get it off. (no pun intended). Something is not right or possibly something happened to my gun during manufacturing. Only way I guess to tell would be to send it in either way. The second smith had a sharp edged shaped 3/8, probably custom made, but fit into the front of the brake perfectly. I think I saw the socket bend before he gave up.

We are talking local gunsmiths that have been in the valley for decades. I assume they have the proper know how to remove a barrel device regardless if its flash, suppressor, muzzle brake, etc.

Just seems a bit ridiculous..to have to go through this. Almost reminds me of the cz scorpion barrel nut saga.. lol
 
ars0n said:
Not sure if mentioned earlier, the gun is brand new, never shot. This is just something I do with all my guns to inspect, clean, modify, etc. When it comes to barrels I do not mess around and always go to my gunsmith. It just seems odd that 2 gunsmiths, literally 260+ pound beasts, can not get it off. (no pun intended). Something is not right or possibly something happened to my gun during manufacturing. Only way I guess to tell would be to send it in either way. The second smith had a sharp edged shaped 3/8, probably custom made, but fit into the front of the brake perfectly. I think I saw the socket bend before he gave up.

We are talking local gunsmiths that have been in the valley for decades. I assume they have the proper know how to remove a barrel device regardless if its flash, suppressor, muzzle brake, etc.

Just seems a bit ridiculous..to have to go through this. Almost reminds me of the cz scorpion barrel nut saga.. lol
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For something that tight it could possibly ruin the threads? Very few american made guns have metric and/or left handed threads. 338lm, 5.45x39(ak74) and m43(ak47) are the most common.
 
ars0n said:
Adding suppressor and seeing what options I have for different muzzle devices.
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Gonna be interesting to see what a gun that short runs like suppressed, gonna be cleaning carbon outta that bad boy for sure but it may be worth it.

I'm leaving the hate brake on my new PDW just so it doesn't look like grapeshot exploding out the barrel, but I am putting on a binary trigger.
 
Make sure the suppressor is rated for a 7.5” barrel; many 5.56 cans require a 10.5” minimum.

Also—it’s the standard 1/2x28 thread—right hand. I’d try the “slug wrench” approach—clamp the barrel, put a wrench on the flats, and give the wrench a sharp rap with a hammer. Should bust it loose, even with loctite or rocksett.
 
Can't clamp the barrel because of the guard. Must use AR rod to hold the thing in place.

And the way the hate brake is with the internal ports, I feel you would eventually need to clean it out? This would require disassembly?

I have been eye balling the bansee 223 and discussed on the phone with their techs that bansee 223 does not have barrel restrictions. Told them I would be putting it on the 5.5 pdw and said they would send me some baffle arrangements to test. I understand the back pressure is going to be there and looked at a few of the suppressors out there. Some are specialized more to disperse the pressure better up front but cost over 1500+.
 
ars0n said:
Not sure if mentioned earlier, the gun is brand new, never shot. This is just something I do with all my guns to inspect, clean, modify, etc. When it comes to barrels I do not mess around and always go to my gunsmith. It just seems odd that 2 gunsmiths, literally 260+ pound beasts, can not get it off. (no pun intended). Something is not right or possibly something happened to my gun during manufacturing. Only way I guess to tell would be to send it in either way. The second smith had a sharp edged shaped 3/8, probably custom made, but fit into the front of the brake perfectly. I think I saw the socket bend before he gave up.

We are talking local gunsmiths that have been in the valley for decades. I assume they have the proper know how to remove a barrel device regardless if its flash, suppressor, muzzle brake, etc.

Just seems a bit ridiculous..to have to go through this. Almost reminds me of the cz scorpion barrel nut saga.. lol
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Did you Youtube or Google for saint edge ideas yet?
Lot's of AR-15 videos there.
Appears like AR-15 is "lefty loosey" from one of them.
 
Wondering if you’ve contacted Maxim Defense about this issue? They may have some insight. Reading the Maxim Defense website on the Hatebrake, it issues the following statement:

“ During installation, the HATE BRAKE locks into place with K-Taper, a patent-pending taper locking technology, replacing the need for proprietary tapered barrels.”

Not sure what all this locking talk is about, but Maxim probably knows. Maybe there’s some trick to “unlocking” it.
 
uspatriot1960 said:
Wondering if you’ve contacted Maxim Defense about this issue? They may have some insight. Reading the Maxim Defense website on the Hatebrake, it issues the following statement:

“ During installation, the HATE BRAKE locks into place with K-Taper, a patent-pending taper locking technology, replacing the need for proprietary tapered barrels.”

Not sure what all this locking talk is about, but Maxim probably knows. Maybe there’s some trick to “unlocking” it.
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Taper requires less torque due to design and better bore alignment.
 
ars0n said:
Maybe we have to PUSH and TURN? lol =D Ohh mann... =(
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Here’s another thought. I know that Hatebrake is a 2 part device. Maybe the inside part is reverse thread and the outer part is regular. Who knows? I still think your best bet is to contact Maxim Defense tomorrow and see if they have any ideas or tricks. It is their device and possibly even their barrel.
 
What would anger me is the response from Springfield if that was the case.

"If the gunsmith knows what they are doing then they will be able to remove the brake".

I've been to two now and maybe even 3 tomorrow.

I ask pretty politely, if any secrets or tricks to get the brake off, I even called back today and spoke to Angie? It was the same lady I spoke to the day before, however, today there were no techs in. (They leave at 2pm apparently). She was adamant the techs said there were no tricks in getting this off other than a modified 3/8 socket. I asked if it was ok to call back tomorrow and speak with one and she said no problem.

We shall see. I emailed Maxim D as well.
 
Well, the question is, how is the 3/8” socket modified? Lol. Could mean a lot of things. Maybe the socket is going into the square hole too far. No idea what a “modified” 3/8” socket is. I know this, taking this thing off should be a lot easier than it seems to be.
 
People I told you, there is no magic to this. Righty tighty lefty loosey. 3/8 extension in the front, use a short extension so the extension does not twist Under the torque. The PDW uses the same 1/2 28 threads any milspec barre has. Propane torch to heat the inner part of the break if needed. The Inner part is what actually screws onto the barrel. The inner part pushes the outer part into the shoulder of the barrel. You would use the same exact techniques one the hate break that you would use on a stubborn barrel nut.

Also Maxim warns against suppressor use on the PDX, the PDX and PDW use the same technology.
 
I would agree that if you’re having these kind of problems with local Smiths you should send it back to Springfield for disassembly before trying any further. No mfg process is ever perfect and the occasional problem gets into the wild. A cross thread is what comes to my mind also.
Regardless, put the onus on them to remove it and if they break it, they replace it.

I saw you mentioned the valley, are you in Ohio? I ask because I know an ogre smith in that area, Jeremy. Although, 260# is light for him.
 
xdman said:
People I told you, there is no magic to this. Righty tighty lefty loosey. 3/8 extension in the front, use a short extension so the extension does not twist Under the torque. The PDW uses the same 1/2 28 threads any milspec barre has. Propane torch to heat the inner part of the break if needed. The Inner part is what actually screws onto the barrel. The inner part pushes the outer part into the shoulder of the barrel. You would use the same exact techniques one the hate break that you would use on a stubborn barrel nut.

Also Maxim warns against suppressor use on the PDX, the PDX and PDW use the same technology.
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I've had to use heat on product guns also. That is why I recommended it also. The soaking or boiling made no sense. So it has locking compound? Some of that stuff needs heat for a good while!
 
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