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OEM Optics plate popped off in the middle of shooting! (Hellcat)

Q

qvision

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Hi,

Today I was at the shooting range and like my plate popped off in the middle of shooting. I was able to recover the plate but was unable to find the screws. Can you please direct me to where I can get these screws I would very much so appreciate it. I don't know how that happened as I'm a new gun owner and haven't put on an optics yet.
 
Any screw threaded into a slide needs to be TIGHT.

I recently lost the screw that holds the rear sight bracket in place on my 10mm Ronin, I'm 99% sure from the regular percussion of the slide. Tighten those screws after/before each outing.

If you call SA customer service they likely will send you new ones no charge. They did for my sight block, saying "we should have had them tight enough not to fall out on you!". They are pretty good about such things.
 
Bassbob said:
Most people don’t use the right tool and torque it to proper specs. They also use loc-tite.
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I only use Loc-Tite on rifle optic mounting screws (like my AR red dot)...now that I had a problem with my 1911's sight block screw, I'll check it every session, but I don't want to use loctite on a screw threaded directly into the firearm...IMO re-torquing after each session is likely best.
 
Jfal said:
I only use Loc-Tite on rifle optic mounting screws (like my AR red dot)...now that I had a problem with my 1911's sight block screw, I'll check it every session, but I don't want to use loctite on a screw threaded directly into the firearm...IMO re-torquing after each session is likely best.
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Quality steel screws that are tapped/ threaded properly require no Loc-Tite when properly torqued. After having to drill out a screw on a Romeo 5 that had Blue Loc-Tite on it, scratching up a rail in the process, I will take the advice of a Boeing engineer and several gunsmiths I know. No Loc-Tite. Ever.

Regarding proper tools. It’s tempting to use those Torx bits you bought from Home Depot on your firearms because they’re cheap, but they’re cheap for a reason. They’re junk. Buy a legitimate set of hardened steel Torx drivers. I snapped several bits, including Wheeler bits, on a T-15 screw I tightened by feel with a drop of blue Loc-Tite. I have since checked 6 other optics I installed exactly the same way using legitimate Torx drivers and had no problems.
 
Bassbob said:
Quality steel screws that are tapped/ threaded properly require no Loc-Tite when properly torqued. After having to drill out a screw on a Romeo 5 that had Blue Loc-Tite on it, scratching up a rail in the process, I will take the advice of a Boeing engineer and several gunsmiths I know. No Loc-Tite. Ever.

Regarding proper tools. It’s tempting to use those Torx bits you bought from Home Depot on your firearms because they’re cheap, but they’re cheap for a reason. They’re junk. Buy a legitimate set of hardened steel Torx drivers. I snapped several bits, including Wheeler bits, on a T-15 screw I tightened by feel with a drop of blue Loc-Tite. I have since checked 6 other optics I installed exactly the same way using legitimate Torx drivers and had no problems.
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A tiny bit of Teflon tape goes a long way to help keep screws from backing out and it will never seize them in place.

I use Teflon tape on direct thread suppressors often.
 
Bassbob said:
Quality steel screws that are tapped/ threaded properly require no Loc-Tite when properly torqued. After having to drill out a screw on a Romeo 5 that had Blue Loc-Tite on it, scratching up a rail in the process, I will take the advice of a Boeing engineer and several gunsmiths I know. No Loc-Tite. Ever.

Regarding proper tools. It’s tempting to use those Torx bits you bought from Home Depot on your firearms because they’re cheap, but they’re cheap for a reason. They’re junk. Buy a legitimate set of hardened steel Torx drivers. I snapped several bits, including Wheeler bits, on a T-15 screw I tightened by feel with a drop of blue Loc-Tite. I have since checked 6 other optics I installed exactly the same way using legitimate Torx drivers and had no problems.
Click to expand...
but, where does one find torque specs for a gun or rifle screws?
 
10mmLife said:
Most sights and mounts have a torque spec in the instructions manual. If for some reason the torque specs aren't listed you could always reach out to the manufacturer for whatever you're trying to torque.
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but what about other nuts, screws for everything else, like grips as one example, or does it matter. i have read more than once where someone has suggested torquing a grips bushings and screws.
 
When I mounted the Holosun 507C X2 on my SA Elite XDM Compact 10mm I used the screws that came with the optic, they already had a dried dot of Blue Locktight on them and I added another very small amount, let it dry and then installed the optic (by hand) with a professional set of Torx Wrenches.
I’ve put 150 rounds through the gun without an issue. Since I can change the battery without removing the optic I’m ok with the thread lock since I don’t intend to ever remove the Holosun.
 
Keystone19250 said:
When I mounted the Holosun 507C X2 on my SA Elite XDM Compact 10mm I used the screws that came with the optic, they already had a dried dot of Blue Locktight on them and I added another very small amount, let it dry and then installed the optic (by hand) with a professional set of Torx Wrenches.
I’ve put 150 rounds through the gun without an issue. Since I can change the battery without removing the optic I’m ok with the thread lock since I don’t intend to ever remove the Holosun.
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As long as you didn't crank it down as hard as you could without snapping the screws, you should be able to get them off with your Torx driver. I bet it would snap every magnetic tip Torx bit you tried to use on them though.
 
If memory serves the screws for a Romeo 5 on a pic rail get torqued to 15-18 inch lbs.

When installing scope rings/mounts on a pic rail they need to be torqued as well. I think the Monstrum mount I put on my .223 Wylde was 20 inch lbs and the scope screws were 25. I could be wrong, I have the numbers out in the shop though. And those numbers I got off quite a bit of research on the internet, including size and type of screws as well as info from scope and mount manufacturers.
 
Bassbob said:
If memory serves the screws for a Romeo 5 on a pic rail get torqued to 15-18 inch lbs.

When installing scope rings/mounts on a pic rail they need to be torqued as well. I think the Monstrum mount I put on my .223 Wylde was 20 inch lbs and the scope screws were 25. I could be wrong, I have the numbers out in the shop though. And those numbers I got off quite a bit of research on the internet, including size and type of screws as well as info from scope and mount manufacturers.
Click to expand...
One thing to consider is when mounting accessories to a polymer rail the torque specs will be lower than mounting to an aluminum rail.
 
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