Plan B
- Thread starter Sld1959
- Start date
This reminds that i have to replace belts and plug on my snowblower.
Old_Me
SAINT
be careful on the belts replacement....!!!!!
2 of my snow throwers (Toro, 2 strokes) have a belt that goes from the crank, to the drum/paddles...my local dealer sold me a belt, a TORO belt mind you, and it would NOT pick up the snow..!!!!
if you know fan belts (i am sure you do), they are suppose the sit/ride a wee bit high in the pulleys, so that the "Meaty sides" work the pulleys...
his belt, went deep into the pulleys, so there fore, the very edges of the belts were working the pulleys, but were slipping.
i had to get 2 new belts from a dealer in Ohio i think, fit perfectly, and NO issues.
not only is the size "printed" on the belt, they all matched in that respect, but then there are "tiny numbers" after the belt size, that also are the size of the belt...his did not match what i bought online.
but lucky for me, those belts last like 20 years..........
i hope to be either dead, or in a nursing home, the next time around....
and i use that E3 spark plugs..??? 3 grounding areas, last forever.
Keystone19250
SAINT
I used to shut mine down by turning off the gas supply and letting it run to pull the bowl dry, also believed in changing the oil regularly to ensure good lubrication especially on an engine that runs full bore to supply a positive/good energy source.
The bottom line is you can’t beat the older units that are adequately maintained.
jmcd
Professional
Never used it but my father in law sweared by it. With all this talk about generators, I'll be firing mine up today for a test run.Suggestion: Seafoam I add a cup to two gallons of unleaded gas, NO Alcohol. My chainsaws can sit for 2 years and still start. Another hint: Fogging oil. Pull spark plugs and spray into the cylinder. It limits ring and cylinder wear on startup after storage.
Sea Foam Motor Treatment | Sea Foam
Sea Foam Motor Treatment works in fuel and oil systems to clean and lubricate critical engine areas. Safe and effective when used in any gasoline or diesel engine.seafoamworks.com
Bassbob
Emissary
My other generator is a Briggs and Stratton Elite 5500.
BobT
Master Class
I agree that propane is the best way to go. Natural gas is nice but you have no control over supply interruptions and it down-rates the generator due to the lower BTU content. You can get a liquid line installed on your house tank that allows you to refill the portable bottles yourself for mobile operation.
When I built my house 25 years ago, I made sure that all major appliance locations had outlets for both gas and 220 electric. During the Texas winter storms not too long ago, I had heat and was able to cook while my neighbors were picking icicles off of their noses during the rolling blackouts. Consider a 1000 gallon tank or larger instead of the standard 500 gallon. Many suppliers will give you a better rate on propane for a larger fill. In addition, by sizing your tank right, you can fill once a year during the summer when the price is the lowest.
Bloodknight
Master Class
A year before moving from our home in Illinois. I had a natural gas whole house generator system installed. We had had quite a few issues with electric & a new dam built downstream from us. Caused serious issues with flooding. Save the rich guy's homes downstream & let the little guy's swim. We were not planning on moving when I did this.Anywho,it was great. Tested itself each week & went on any time the power went out. We had to sell a year or so later. About 5 years later I ran into a neighbor from near our old home with the whole house generator system. He told me that the new owners did not maintain the system and when the rains came & power went out. The system failed and they flooded. stupid is as stupid does
Area52
Professional
I use that Tru-Fuel when small engines go into storage…$4 a qt if you can find it on sale. I have only 4 cycle (lawn) stuff, mixing 2 cycle 50:1 or 40:1 always led to problems.
Used to use a dose of ’Start Your Engine’ if they had any trouble getting any started up in spring, but the TruFuel seemed to fix that.
Using a shutoff or add one if there isn’t, also run the carb dry too, even that Stabil if not properly diluted to right ratio looks like it can gum up…ever look under the cap of Stabil… sticky stuff when it dries.
Used to use a dose of ’Start Your Engine’ if they had any trouble getting any started up in spring, but the TruFuel seemed to fix that.
Using a shutoff or add one if there isn’t, also run the carb dry too, even that Stabil if not properly diluted to right ratio looks like it can gum up…ever look under the cap of Stabil… sticky stuff when it dries.
jumpinjoe
Hellcat
Isn't the "TruFuel" and other alcohol free (uncontaminated) canned gasolines just an alcohol free fuel with a treatment of some kind included? I called it 'uncontaminated' because I hate the alcohol content in gasoline so bad. It's hard on the fuel systems of almost every small engine and on most vehicle engines built prior to the late 90's. The alcohol is so corrosive to unprotected fuel lines, carb gaskets, etc, and has so much less BTU content by volume than clean gasoline, whatever decrease in dirty emissions obtained, is lost by the decrease in mileage per gallon. I know there are dozens of tests and reviews, but the main one that sticks with me is that on average a decrease in emissions of about 11% can be obtained with 10% alcohol while at the same time with the same fuel will show a loss of almost 20% in mpg. So not only are we paying more for the fuel to begin with, we're also paying for a decrease in miles per gallon, as well as higher maintenance costs in some cases.
Alcohol contaminated gasoline has cost the avg working man literally billions of dollars in ruined equipment like chain saws, weed eaters, outboard motors, etc, and/or repairs to the same equipment it's a sin. And the lawmakers who insist on this crap never are even aware of the trouble it causes because most of them have chauffeur driven vehicles and have never been bothered personally with having to deal with the alcohol crap. Most have never even had to pump their own gas.
Yes, it's a little cheaper by the gallon at the pump, but when the decrease in performance/mileage and increased maintenance costs are factored in, it just ain't worth it. I hate it with every fiber of my being.
I drive a Silverado 'Flex fuel' PU truck so it's supposed to be able to burn anything up to E85, but so long as I've owned it (bought it almost new at 6K miles), I've never been forced into any E85. Obviously the 10% crap is about the only thing available so I use it most of the time, but when close enough to a station with uncontaminated gasoline, and low enough in the tank to warrant it, I'll stop and fill up with alcohol free gas.
Did I mention just how much I hate alcohol contaminated gasoline. Almost as much as I hated the lead free when that happened. Oh well!!!!
Edit: I store all my small equipment (well used to when I had small equipment) with a clean, dry carb having been run only on alcohol free gas and a treatment just prior to storage. My favorite treatment is "StarTron" used just a little over recommended dosage. I'll use "Sea Foam" or "Stabil" in that order if I can't find the "StarTron". But that's just me, YMMV.
Alcohol contaminated gasoline has cost the avg working man literally billions of dollars in ruined equipment like chain saws, weed eaters, outboard motors, etc, and/or repairs to the same equipment it's a sin. And the lawmakers who insist on this crap never are even aware of the trouble it causes because most of them have chauffeur driven vehicles and have never been bothered personally with having to deal with the alcohol crap. Most have never even had to pump their own gas.
Yes, it's a little cheaper by the gallon at the pump, but when the decrease in performance/mileage and increased maintenance costs are factored in, it just ain't worth it. I hate it with every fiber of my being.
I drive a Silverado 'Flex fuel' PU truck so it's supposed to be able to burn anything up to E85, but so long as I've owned it (bought it almost new at 6K miles), I've never been forced into any E85. Obviously the 10% crap is about the only thing available so I use it most of the time, but when close enough to a station with uncontaminated gasoline, and low enough in the tank to warrant it, I'll stop and fill up with alcohol free gas.
Did I mention just how much I hate alcohol contaminated gasoline. Almost as much as I hated the lead free when that happened. Oh well!!!!
Edit: I store all my small equipment (well used to when I had small equipment) with a clean, dry carb having been run only on alcohol free gas and a treatment just prior to storage. My favorite treatment is "StarTron" used just a little over recommended dosage. I'll use "Sea Foam" or "Stabil" in that order if I can't find the "StarTron". But that's just me, YMMV.
Last edited:
BobT
Master Class
Just an FYI - If you don't live in Oklahoma where you can get alcohol free gas at many gas stations, consider going to an automotive speed shop. Many of them sell racing fuel at a price that is 50% to double the price of the standard stuff but still cheaper than TruFuel.Isn't the "TruFuel" and other alcohol free (uncontaminated) canned gasolines just an alcohol free fuel with a treatment of some kind included? I called it 'uncontaminated' because I hate the alcohol content in gasoline so bad. It's hard on the fuel systems of almost every small engine and on most vehicle engines built prior to the late 90's. The alcohol is so corrosive to unprotected fuel lines, carb gaskets, etc, and has so much less BTU content by volume than clean gasoline, whatever decrease in dirty emissions obtained, is lost by the decrease in mileage per gallon. I know there are dozens of tests and reviews, but the main one that sticks with me is that on average a decrease in emissions of about 11% can be obtained with 10% alcohol while at the same time with the same fuel will show a loss of almost 20% in mpg. So not only are we paying more for the fuel to begin with, we're also paying for a decrease in miles per gallon, as well as higher maintenance costs in some cases.
Alcohol contaminated gasoline has cost the avg working man literally billions of dollars in ruined equipment like chain saws, weed eaters, outboard motors, etc, and/or repairs to the same equipment it's a sin. And the lawmakers who insist on this crap never are even aware of the trouble it causes because most of them have chauffeur driven vehicles and have never been bothered personally with having to deal with the alcohol crap. Most have never even had to pump their own gas.
Yes, it's a little cheaper by the gallon at the pump, but when the decrease in performance/mileage and increased maintenance costs are factored in, it just ain't worth it. I hate it with every fiber of my being.
I drive a Silverado 'Flex fuel' PU truck so it's supposed to be able to burn anything up to E85, but so long as I've owned it (bought it almost new at 6K miles), I've never been forced into any E85. Obviously the 10% crap is about the only thing available so I use it most of the time, but when close enough to a station with uncontaminated gasoline, and low enough in the tank to warrant it, I'll stop and fill up with alcohol free gas.
Did I mention just how much I hate alcohol contaminated gasoline. Almost as much as I hated the lead free when that happened. Oh well!!!!
Edit: I store all my small equipment (well used to when I had small equipment) with a clean, dry carb having been run only on alcohol free gas and a treatment just prior to storage. My favorite treatment is "StarTron" used just a little over recommended dosage. I'll use "Sea Foam" or "Stabil" in that order if I can't find the "StarTron". But that's just me, YMMV.