reloading questions/advice if you would please?

[Old_Me]

I like the lights! At least you can see what you are doing!

whoever came up with adding lights to reloading presses, deserves the Nobel "Piece" Prize....

a "Piece" of Mrs. Smiths Apple pie......

they really are a good addition to a reloading press, and don't cost a lot of money.

a buddy of mine, that i meet up with at the bait shop, drilled a hole in his Lee press, to add a light under the plate, to show you if you missed a primer....

i had seen others on the web do the same thing, good idea, when you see that light coming up thru the primer pocket, you know right away, you missed a primer..!!

something like this set up

 

[youngolddude]

I started reloading with a Lee. The priming system left a lot to be desired and I switched to Dillon after a year or so. I still like the Lee dies and use them exclusively. I also like the Lee loading manuals and have both editions. A number of folks hand prime their cases and not just for Lee presses.

 

[Old_Me]

yeah thanks.!!

i have a de-capper/primer hand tool from Frankford Arsenal, used it a few times to de-cap, only, since i had no primers.

i will be reloading some more 45's in a few days, and see if that video trick for the Lee primer really does the job.

i also just finished setting up the Dillon for 45 ACP and that was a chore, since i never had done it before. i had to watch 2 videos, 1 for how to replace the primer bar, and the other on how to replace the shell plate. not all that difficult.

then i ran like 12 "dummy rounds" thru each die, to dial each one in, and of course measured each and every round.

after i was satisfied that the OAL matched the Lee's and the specs in the books, and the plunk test, i then proceeded to adjust the powder drop, and ran about another 12 shell casings thru it, remembering to not remove the primers..!!

that was quite easy.

hopefully later this week, barring any interruptions, i will churn out maybe 50 to 100 45 ACP's on that Dillion.

oh yeah, when i was adjusting the powder drop.??

i made sure that all the shell casings had at least the spent primers in them...!!!

i learnt THAT lesson real quick months ago, setting up the Lee......

and yes too, i have all Lee dies.

 

[StillLearning]

whoever came up with adding lights to reloading presses, deserves the Nobel "Piece" Prize....

a "Piece" of Mrs. Smiths Apple pie......

they really are a good addition to a reloading press, and don't cost a lot of money.

a buddy of mine, that i meet up with at the bait shop, drilled a hole in his Lee press, to add a light under the plate, to show you if you missed a primer....

i had seen others on the web do the same thing, good idea, when you see that light coming up thru the primer pocket, you know right away, you missed a primer..!!

something like this set up

I did this mod. It is AWESOME...BUT, you have to remeber to look at it. I have "gotten in the groove" and forgotten about it, before. I also add the UFO lights.

UFO LM Reloading Press Light for Lee LoadMaster

********************************************************************** All KMS² Press Lighting Products are designed to function on presses that are factory stock. Some non-stock configurations may cause damage to the light. **********************************************************************...

kmssquared.com

Another huge improvement. You need a really bright primer check light if you do this. My first one was overpowerd by the UFO lights.

 

[Pitdogg2]

My RL550b is about 30yrs old. I've yet to be disappointed with anything it does, with the exception that it will drop used primers on the floor from time to time. Bought one of these and walla no longer a problem.

Dillon RL550 Spent Primer Cup Shield *KEEP PRIMERS OFF THE FLOOR* 5000+ Sold! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dillon RL550 Spent Primer Cup Shield *KEEP PRIMERS OFF THE FLOOR* 5000+ Sold! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I've had more than one person try to get me to hand prime my cases, I laugh it off. My 550 priming system has never failed me rifle or pistol.
Why make it harder?
I get in a rhythm and just go, next thing I know the primer alarm is going off, time for a reload

 

[Old_Me]

My RL550b is about 30yrs old. I've yet to be disappointed with anything it does, with the exception that it will drop used primers on the floor from time to time. Bought one of these and walla no longer a problem.

Dillon RL550 Spent Primer Cup Shield *KEEP PRIMERS OFF THE FLOOR* 5000+ Sold! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dillon RL550 Spent Primer Cup Shield *KEEP PRIMERS OFF THE FLOOR* 5000+ Sold! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I've had more than one person try to get me to hand prime my cases, I laugh it off. My 550 priming system has never failed me rifle or pistol.
Why make it harder?
I get in a rhythm and just go, next thing I know the primer alarm is going off, time for a reload

that's a neat idea....

 

[Old_Me]

my first box of 45 ACP, made this past weekend, going to the range this morning.

boy, did i have a hard time standing them all up as neatly as this.....for this picture..!!

 

[Bassbob]

You’re reloading lead bullets for semi auto pistols ? Why ?

 

[youngolddude]

You’re reloading lead bullets for semi auto pistols ? Why ?

Price and barrel life. I think it is easier to clean, but that might be me. Plated bullets are about $93/500, true FMJ are higher. You can get lead for about $50/500 or poly coated for about $10 more.

 

[Old_Me]

You’re reloading lead bullets for semi auto pistols ? Why ?

i can get 500 cast bullets for $45 at the bait/tackle store

 

[Old_Me]

ok, so ALL the 50 rounds of my reloaded ammo shot off with out a hitch!

however, i did notice "some black specs??" on the shooting stand.

i had asked the RSO, he reloads primarily rifle ammo, and he said it "might be" unburnt powder?

so, the manager at the bait/tackle/gun store agreed, that it was most likely unburnt powder.

there was some of those black specs the first 16 rounds that i reloaded several months ago, but i just didn;t question them.

the powder i have on hand is Bullseye.

i will be getting any day this week, Tight Group

 

[HansGruber]

ok, so ALL the 50 rounds of my reloaded ammo shot off with out a hitch!

however, i did notice "some black specs??" on the shooting stand.

i had asked the RSO, he reloads primarily rifle ammo, and he said it "might be" unburnt powder?

so, the manager at the bait/tackle/gun store agreed, that it was most likely unburnt powder.

there was some of those black specs the first 16 rounds that i reloaded several months ago, but i just didn;t question them.

the powder i have on hand is Bullseye.

i will be getting any day this week, Tight Group

You could try reducing your powder load, or trying a magnum primer.

Realize that this brings you into uncharted territory, and best to tread lightly.

 

[Old_Me]

ok, so i had ordered a "few things" from Lee, and from Dillon, and from an eBay retailer.

i got from Lee, several O rings, a powder drum rebuild kit, a larger powder hopper (free..!!), and a couple of screws...many things were free in this order.

from DIllon, i get a press cover, and from the eBay retailer, i got a Lee press cover as well, it just ain't as nice as the Dillon's.

my equipment in in the cellar/basement, and it does get "dusty" down there, as it was, i had simple garbage bags covering the presses.

 

[Old_Me]

You could try reducing your powder load, or trying a magnum primer.

Realize that this brings you into uncharted territory, and best to tread lightly.

i am doing the "starting charge" of 4.0 grains.

i was told by the store manager (who has been reloading a long time) that the Tite Group fires/burns much better than the Bullseye.

but i still have like 1.75 lbs of Bullseye, before i might want to start using the Tite Group.

BUT, i'd be willing to switch over for at least 1 box's worth to verify.

 

[jumpinjoe]

i am doing the "starting charge" of 4.0 grains.

i was told by the store manager (who has been reloading a long time) that the Tite Group fires/burns much better than the Bullseye.

but i still have like 1.75 lbs of Bullseye, before i might want to start using the Tite Group.

BUT, i'd be willing to switch over for at least 1 box's worth to verify.

Bullseye is usually considered to burn pretty dirty especially in low pressure loads. Sometimes it can be cleaned up a little by increasing the charge (within safe limits) and sometimes even increasing the crimp slightly. This might help increase pressure inside the case during the pressure curve buildup and helps burn all the powder. The unburned flakes are what you're seeing as "black specs".

At 4.0 grns you're right at the bottom end of the recommended charge range and thus a very low pressure curve when fired. The lead bullets are a little softer as well and pull fairly easily during firing. As was suggested earlier, a magnum primer might help, but not real likely.

Another way to help, but not particularly fun, is to pack a small pinch of something like "Polyfill" (or just plain cotton) in the case on top of the charge before inserting the bullet. Not a lot, just enough to fill the case and keep the powder charge from falling to the bottom side of the case when the cartridge is horizontal in the chamber. Using the 'polyfill' will take up the empty space in the case and keep the powder charge filling the case at the rear where the primer ignition takes place. The concept is much like the packing of fuel in a 'solid fuel' rocket. Igniting the fuel at the center of the charge rather than along one side will without question result in a far better, more complete, and consistent pressure curve build up during the burn.

This suggestion comes from many years of competition and is an old competitor's trick to make it possible to use much lighter loads than needed to fill a case. Often a lighter charge is far more accurate/consistent than really hot charges. It also works well in larger cases like large caliber rifles where the charge doesn't fill the case.

Just a couple things to ponder!!!

 

[Old_Me]

Bullseye is usually considered to burn pretty dirty especially in low pressure loads. Sometimes it can be cleaned up a little by increasing the charge (within safe limits) and sometimes even increasing the crimp slightly. This might help increase pressure inside the case during the pressure curve buildup and helps burn all the powder. The unburned flakes are what you're seeing as "black specs".

At 4.0 grns you're right at the bottom end of the recommended charge range and thus a very low pressure curve when fired. The lead bullets are a little softer as well and pull fairly easily during firing. As was suggested earlier, a magnum primer might help, but not real likely.

Another way to help, but not particularly fun, is to pack a small pinch of something like "Polyfill" (or just plain cotton) in the case on top of the charge before inserting the bullet. Not a lot, just enough to fill the case and keep the powder charge from falling to the bottom side of the case when the cartridge is horizontal in the chamber. Using the 'polyfill' will take up the empty space in the case and keep the powder charge filling the case at the rear where the primer ignition takes place. The concept is much like the packing of fuel in a 'solid fuel' rocket. Igniting the fuel at the center of the charge rather than along one side will without question result in a far better, more complete, and consistent pressure curve build up during the burn.

This suggestion comes from many years of competition and is an old competitor's trick to make it possible to use much lighter loads than needed to fill a case. Often a lighter charge is far more accurate/consistent than really hot charges. It also works well in larger cases like large caliber rifles where the charge doesn't fill the case.

Just a couple things to ponder!!!

well that was "1 " of my questions to the RSO's that reload, and the store manager that reloads. all 3 for many years, as you, and many others here have as well.

i asked....

if "increasing" the charge to say 4.5 or 4.75 help, yet still be under the max charge.

all 3 guys said, "not really"......but it can't hurt either.

the store manager did mention what you did about a cartridge being "laying down" when in the chamber, as opposed to standing upright, while reloading and packaged.

he went on to say that the Tite Group "shines" here in that it burns "faster/better" in all directions of the cartridges positions.

i'd "like to" bump up the charge for my next set of 50 rounds, and i will check the book on the "middle" charge.

it's just that being so new to this, i really don't feel comfortable going above the minimum charge, until i get more rounds and experience into this.

 

[jumpinjoe]

well that was "1 " of my questions to the RSO's that reload, and the store manager that reloads. all 3 for many years, as you, and many others here have as well.

i asked....

if "increasing" the charge to say 4.5 or 4.75 help, yet still be under the max charge.

all 3 guys said, "not really"......but it can't hurt either.

the store manager did mention what you did about a cartridge being "laying down" when in the chamber, as opposed to standing upright, while reloading and packaged.

he went on to say that the Tite Group "shines" here in that it burns "faster/better" in all directions of the cartridges positions.

i'd "like to" bump up the charge for my next set of 50 rounds, and i will check the book on the "middle" charge.

it's just that being so new to this, i really don't feel comfortable going above the minimum charge, until i get more rounds and experience into this.

Well, I understand your hesitance, but in reality as long as you stay within the listed, tested loads, you will be fine even as a new loader. Just take your time and check/recheck each step as you go. That's what is a far better safety margin than staying with light loads while learning.

Safety is always paramount, then comes consistency, and from that comes accuracy. You're already at a slight handicap by using the lead bullets instead of FMJ's. I'm not saying they're no good, they are fine for what you're doing. It's just that they are softer and will make it a little harder for you to maximize those low pressure loads.

I don't have a load manual handy where I am right now, but I'd say just go up a couple steps of a tenth of a grn at each step. If you're loading 4.0 grns now, you might want to try 4.2 grns. That and squeezing up just a tad on the crimp might be just enough to help burn those last few flakes. Certainly packing the case would, but that's a real PITA.

Not being there to see actually how bad the "specs" are (how many unburned flakes) it's hard to say just what all might be needed to clean it up. And be aware, using the "Bullseye" powder you may never get it completely clean (burn every single flake). At an outside range you'll never see those unburned flakes anyway. Even at an inside range you probably won't see very many from a standing position, maybe a few if shooting shooting off the bench.

Go for it!!! Be safe and good shooting!!!

 

[Old_Me]

Well, I understand your hesitance, but in reality as long as you stay within the listed, tested loads, you will be fine even as a new loader. Just take your time and check/recheck each step as you go. That's what is a far better safety margin than staying with light loads while learning.

Safety is always paramount, then comes consistency, and from that comes accuracy. You're already at a slight handicap by using the lead bullets instead of FMJ's. I'm not saying they're no good, they are fine for what you're doing. It's just that they are softer and will make it a little harder for you to maximize those low pressure loads.

I don't have a load manual handy where I am right now, but I'd say just go up a couple steps of a tenth of a grn at each step. If you're loading 4.0 grns now, you might want to try 4.2 grns. That and squeezing up just a tad on the crimp might be just enough to help burn those last few flakes. Certainly packing the case would, but that's a real PITA.

Not being there to see actually how bad the "specs" are (how many unburned flakes) it's hard to say just what all might be needed to clean it up. And be aware, using the "Bullseye" powder you may never get it completely clean (burn every single flake). At an outside range you'll never see those unburned flakes anyway. Even at an inside range you probably won't see very many from a standing position, maybe a few if shooting shooting off the bench.

Go for it!!! Be safe and good shooting!!!

the "flakes or specks" were scattered all over the port bench. if i were to have swept them up, there "might have been" a "pinch" to be found in total? not to mention as well, the fact that was what i could see, and not what fell to the floor.

i can try to tighten up the crimp a tad more.

for my shooting, it is purley practice, and fun, not competition. to spend the extra money on FMJ just isn't my desire for my shooting.

yes, when i buy NEW ammo, of course it is pretty much always FMJ, but there have been times, it was lead too.

 

[jumpinjoe]

the "flakes or specks" were scattered all over the port bench. if i were to have swept them up, there "might have been" a "pinch" to be found in total? not to mention as well, the fact that was what i could see, and not what fell to the floor.

i can try to tighten up the crimp a tad more.

for my shooting, it is purley practice, and fun, not competition. to spend the extra money on FMJ just isn't my desire for my shooting.

yes, when i buy NEW ammo, of course it is pretty much always FMJ, but there have been times, it was lead too.

That doesn't sound like an awful lot of unburned Bullseye, or most any other powder. I don't think you have anything to worry about, but you could still try a little higher charge and a little tighter crimp to improve consistency. It will only show up in your accuracy since you're not using a chrono. And for what you're doing right now, you'll be fine.

I understand your main use is practice and fun, and I didn't mean to imply anything less. I was only saying that the FMJ's would likely make it a little (probably very litte) easier to clean up the unburned flakes. I was not intentionally knocking the lead bullets, I've used many thousands over the years for many different reasons. But with each and every component change you make, you'll see some amount of difference in the final product ....... usually!

And with any tips I offer and mention they are primarily related to competition, I'm not suggesting you should even consider competitions, only that the tip originated there. Use them at your pleasure.

 

[Old_Me]

That doesn't sound like an awful lot of unburned Bullseye, or most any other powder. I don't think you have anything to worry about, but you could still try a little higher charge and a little tighter crimp to improve consistency. It will only show up in your accuracy since you're not using a chrono. And for what you're doing right now, you'll be fine.

I understand your main use is practice and fun, and I didn't mean to imply anything less. I was only saying that the FMJ's would likely make it a little (probably very litte) easier to clean up the unburned flakes. I was not intentionally knocking the lead bullets, I've used many thousands over the years for many different reasons. But with each and every component change you make, you'll see some amount of difference in the final product ....... usually!

And with any tips I offer and mention they are primarily related to competition, I'm not suggesting you should even consider competitions, only that the tip originated there. Use them at your pleasure.

i didn't take anything the wrong way, you're good.