testtest

SA 1911's Any issues with the Ti Firing pin?

S

Scevaph

Elite
Those of you with more experience with the SA 1911's. Are you having good results with the Titanium firing pins and stock springs?

Mine a new to me Ronin 5" 9mm ( early one marked Ronin Operator); I believe it has a 9# recoil, 23# hammer and xxpower FP springs
If not stock how are your's set up?

I generally shoot 124 gr hardball and 124 gr +P Gold Dots.

Any problem parts on the SA 1911's that I should consider keeping a spare on hand for? I am thinking keeping a firing pin and FP stop as these appear to be the parts (other than springs) that need replacing the most often.
 
Scevaph said:
Those of you with more experience with the SA 1911's. Are you having good results with the Titanium firing pins and stock springs?

Mine a new to me Ronin 5" 9mm ( early one marked Ronin Operator); I believe it has a 9# recoil, 23# hammer and xxpower FP springs
If not stock how are your's set up?

I generally shoot 124 gr hardball and 124 gr +P Gold Dots.

Any problem parts on the SA 1911's that I should consider keeping a spare on hand for? I am thinking keeping a firing pin and FP stop as these appear to be the parts (other than springs) that need replacing the most often.
Click to expand...
i have several 1911's, but they are all 45 ACP.

some of them have at least 500 rounds now, (all my guns of ALL calibers are in rotation to get to the range), and i have yet to replace a firing pin, on ANY gun that i own.

the only thing i can "think" about the need for a new firing pin, is that the previous owner did a LOT of dry firing with out the use of snap caps....maybe you as well...????

i'd be concerned about the backside of the breech face, maybe starting to crack due to dry firing.
 
Scevaph said:
Those of you with more experience with the SA 1911's. Are you having good results with the Titanium firing pins and stock springs?

Mine a new to me Ronin 5" 9mm ( early one marked Ronin Operator); I believe it has a 9# recoil, 23# hammer and xxpower FP springs
If not stock how are your's set up?

I generally shoot 124 gr hardball and 124 gr +P Gold Dots.

Any problem parts on the SA 1911's that I should consider keeping a spare on hand for? I am thinking keeping a firing pin and FP stop as these appear to be the parts (other than springs) that need replacing the most often.
Click to expand...
Personally, I would change the recoil spring to 12#, I had issues with my RO Operator in 9mm not going fully into battery with the 9#, after putting the 12# in like my Kimber 1911 in 9mm, my issues went away, just a FYI, I left all other springs alone
 
Ed Brown suggested considering replacing any plastic or MIM parts.

I think I will replace only if a problem comes up. I think most MIM parts are actually pretty good any more. Otherwise Colt, S&W and others wouldn't be using them with good effect. I know there was a hue and cry when S&W started using MIM hammers and triggers but the consensus is that while the old case hardened forged ones looked better the MIM require less fitting and are working well.

I have a Wolff 12 lb recoil I am going to try and I think I may put my 19 # hammer spring in. I can always change it back if needed.
 
Scevaph said:
Ed Brown suggested considering replacing any plastic or MIM parts.

I think I will replace only if a problem comes up. I think most MIM parts are actually pretty good any more. Otherwise Colt, S&W and others wouldn't be using them with good effect. I know there was a hue and cry when S&W started using MIM hammers and triggers but the consensus is that while the old case hardened forged ones looked better the MIM require less fitting and are working well.

I have a Wolff 12 lb recoil I am going to try and I think I may put my 19 # hammer spring in. I can always change it back if needed.
Click to expand...
face it, Ed Brown, Wilson, Wolf, EGW, and many others, make thier living off of sales....

so of course "they say replace" all those parts.

you wait, i wait, till the parts actually need to be replaced.

otherwise, invest in a gun at the mere cost of $4,000 and up........
 
I don't have the issue with MIM parts that some have; perhaps that's my manufacturing and engineering background. I also don't have an issue with investment castings; look at what Ruger has done with them. The old timer in me prefers machined forgings and nice wood but I can appreciate a polymer gun also.

That said; For spare parts to keep around I will have the following, The original springs (Recoil, FP spring and mainspring) , an assembled mainspring housing ( I already have an extra arched one) and some time in the future will add a firing pin and firing pin stop as they seem to be the parts most often needing replaced.

I just need to decide whether to get an extra stock SA Ti FP and stock FP stop or get a streel (Ed Brown?) FP and one of the many machined aftermarket FP stops.

What are your thoughts on Firing pin and stop? Overkill? Steel better?
 
Scevaph said:
I don't have the issue with MIM parts that some have; perhaps that's my manufacturing and engineering background. I also don't have an issue with investment castings; look at what Ruger has done with them. The old timer in me prefers machined forgings and nice wood but I can appreciate a polymer gun also.

That said; For spare parts to keep around I will have the following, The original springs (Recoil, FP spring and mainspring) , an assembled mainspring housing ( I already have an extra arched one) and some time in the future will add a firing pin and firing pin stop as they seem to be the parts most often needing replaced.

I just need to decide whether to get an extra stock SA Ti FP and stock FP stop or get a streel (Ed Brown?) FP and one of the many machined aftermarket FP stops.

What are your thoughts on Firing pin and stop? Overkill? Steel better?
Click to expand...
For me, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I just keep spare recoil springs, firing pin, and a slide stop, I don’t fret on plastic MSH since there is no pressure on it by the mainspring, the MSH sits atop a pin, so there is nothing to worry about, I have had a slide stop crack on a pistol, but after many many rounds, I do get a forged one though
 
Annihilator said:
For me, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I just keep spare recoil springs, firing pin, and a slide stop, I don’t fret on plastic MSH since there is no pressure on it by the mainspring, the MSH sits atop a pin, so there is nothing to worry about, I have had a slide stop crack on a pistol, but after many many rounds, I do get a forged one though
Click to expand...


That's my plan. are you using stock SA or aftermarket parts for spares? If aftermarket, steel or Titanium firing pin and whose? I see the Ed Brown FP for a Springfield is less that half the SA Stock price but is tool steel not titanium. If I get a F.P. stop; drop in or one that need fitting

I am in no hurry to get these as, unfortunately, I don't get to do much shooting any more

These will likely be parts that will never need to be used.
 
Scevaph said:
That's my plan. are you using stock SA or aftermarket parts for spares? If aftermarket, steel or Titanium firing pin and whose? I see the Ed Brown FP for a Springfield is less that half the SA Stock price but is tool steel not titanium. If I get a F.P. stop; drop in or one that need fitting

I am in no hurry to get these as, unfortunately, I don't get to do much shooting any more

These will likely be parts that will never need to be used.
Click to expand...
Got mine stuff from Midway USA, I think the firing pin was a Wilson, it was titanium, slide stop if I remember right was a Wilson also, drop in, maybe it might have been a Ed Brown if not a Wilson, Springfield doesn’t sell gun parts so you have to get aftermarket ones. Plus all my springs were Wilson.
 
OK; Disassembled today ( first time in 35 years I took a 1911 apart, I still remembered how), looked everything over, wiped it down, changed the recoil spring to a 12# Wolff and changed the firing pin spring to the XP wolff that came with the recoil spring after cleaning F.P. hole out and lubing with a drop of oil. Took the mag catch out to see if there were any burrs ( it was a little stiff and gritty) Cleaned it out and no burrs, smooth until the spring and retainer put in then I can feel it a little, lightly smoothed the spring hole, lightly lubed it ( 1 drop) and reassembled. Still a little stiff but not bad; I'll leave it alone for now but may put a slightly lighter spring in it later. I would rather have it a little stiff then too easy to push. Carefully and lightly lubed the rails - oil I am using is Ed Brown synthetic; that little bottle should last ma a long time. I ended up leaving the mainspring alone. I did the pencil test and before changing the F.P. Spring it launched the pencil about a foot and little over a foot and after the new F.P. spring it was a few inched more at the most. Since the trigger pull is pretty good I left the stock (23 lbs?) mainspring in as I thought a 19 lb may just be a little light given the pencil test with the stock spring and Ti Firing pin launched the pencil about a foot (straight up).

By the way, I measured the Firing pin tip expecting it would be 0.075 or a little less, Surprise; mine is 0.063 which seems to be a standard 9mm firing pin size. From looking it over it is the stock S.A. Ti pin. I'm glad I have not bought a spare pin yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top