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The first of many reloading questions….

My old ('80s) Lee 3-die sets in 9mm and .45ACP puts a very slight roll crimp on the case. I never had a single problem in tens of thousands of rounds loaded this way and shot in at least a dozen different handguns. The brass would last many reloadings before a few started showing cracks at the neck--and I lost far more cases to the grass than I ever did to neck cracking. And I didn't lose very many in the grass. I'm a real Brass Scrooge.
 
I prefer the 4 die sets. I use Lee dies on my 650 and only load pistol rounds and am perfectly happy with them. YMMV. It's also handy having dedicated tool heads for each caliber you reload.
 
My next question (s). Case cleaning. I’m leaning towards the Hornady M2 or the Frankford Armory. Recommendations? Also, I‘m considering either the Lyman or Hornady reloading books. I would appreciate any input!
 
Since you mention "case cleaning", I'm assuming the M2 Hornady is indicating a vibrating tumbler. Just FYI, the M2 designation is used in description of several of Hornady's offerings such as their digital scale. Anyway, yes, the M2 tumbler is as good as any, probably bigger than you need, but that's your call. All vibrating tumblers operate on the same principle and most use the same inner workings regardless of the name on it. So, one is probably as good as any other (including the Harbor Freight). Let your 'real' needs and costs, rather than perceived needs and cost be your guide. Spend your money on quality media whether crushed walnut shell, corn cob media, ceramics, etc. Some of the newer stuff that includes a 'polishing' agent can give super results.

If you're actually talking about the M2 digital scale, know that the M3-1500 is every bit as accurate down to .1 grain, with the same max weight ratings to 1500 grains, (which you will never, ever need) and is less than 1/3rd the cost of the M2. And a very big plus with the M3 is that it's battery operated and can be used on the tail gate of your truck (or anywhere else) if need be whereas I'm thinking the M2 requires an electrical outlet (but not certain). The best is that the M3 is considerably smaller and less bulky.

Lyman and Hornady are good loading manuals, so are Sierra, Lee, Speer, Nosler, Berger are all good. You should have at least a couple and always compare load recipes across a couple different ones. Also a great load recipe source is 'Loadbooks' USA. They are a collection of loading manuals but only one caliber per soft back spiral wound book.

Almost every bullet, powder, and cartridge manufacturer provides loading recipes at their own web sites and are typically a good resource. There is also many loading manuals, sources across the I-net, but beware that some are uploaded by folks who think they know far more than they really do. Others are fairly reliable, just beware.

Study well and before you load, then load and watch the results carefully. Don't be afraid to make corrections as necessary. If a manual gives you a 'Starting' load, trust them and work your way up watching the results as you go. Just because any book says (?) grns is a good load for 9mm, accept that it may be a good load in their testing barrels and under testing conditions, but might not be a good load in your personally owned barrel.
 
jumpinjoe said:
Since you mention "case cleaning", I'm assuming the M2 Hornady is indicating a vibrating tumbler. Just FYI, the M2 designation is used in description of several of Hornady's offerings such as their digital scale. Anyway, yes, the M2 tumbler is as good as any, probably bigger than you need, but that's your call. All vibrating tumblers operate on the same principle and most use the same inner workings regardless of the name on it. So, one is probably as good as any other (including the Harbor Freight). Let your 'real' needs and costs, rather than perceived needs and cost be your guide. Spend your money on quality media whether crushed walnut shell, corn cob media, ceramics, etc. Some of the newer stuff that includes a 'polishing' agent can give super results.

If you're actually talking about the M2 digital scale, know that the M3-1500 is every bit as accurate down to .1 grain, with the same max weight ratings to 1500 grains, (which you will never, ever need) and is less than 1/3rd the cost of the M2. And a very big plus with the M3 is that it's battery operated and can be used on the tail gate of your truck (or anywhere else) if need be whereas I'm thinking the M2 requires an electrical outlet (but not certain). The best is that the M3 is considerably smaller and less bulky.

Lyman and Hornady are good loading manuals, so are Sierra, Lee, Speer, Nosler, Berger are all good. You should have at least a couple and always compare load recipes across a couple different ones. Also a great load recipe source is 'Loadbooks' USA. They are a collection of loading manuals but only one caliber per soft back spiral wound book.

Almost every bullet, powder, and cartridge manufacturer provides loading recipes at their own web sites and are typically a good resource. There is also many loading manuals, sources across the I-net, but beware that some are uploaded by folks who think they know far more than they really do. Others are fairly reliable, just beware.

Study well and before you load, then load and watch the results carefully. Don't be afraid to make corrections as necessary. If a manual gives you a 'Starting' load, trust them and work your way up watching the results as you go. Just because any book says (?) grns is a good load for 9mm, accept that it may be a good load in their testing barrels and under testing conditions, but might not be a good load in your personally owned barrel.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I did mean the Hornady M2 Tumbler. Thanks again.
 
Any vibrating case cleaner will work well. I have also had good success with rotational ones, basically a rock tumbler. The key is good clean media in it. Cleaning or replacing the media when needed is import to get well cleaned cases.

As for reloading manuals. Those made by a specific company, especially power or bullet companies typically have only or at the very least are very heavy on their product. Only load data for Hornaday bullets etc. So having more than one may be needed depending on if you are not married to a particular brand of bullets or powder. There is an on line place called loaddata.com that for a few dollars per year you can have access to hundreds of thousands of loads for just about any caliber, bullet weight, and powder manufacture known. You can easily search by any of the above or more than one. i.e. 30-06 and 180 gr bullets. It is a very good resource.
 
Kuvasz said:
Any vibrating case cleaner will work well. I have also had good success with rotational ones, basically a rock tumbler. The key is good clean media in it. Cleaning or replacing the media when needed is import to get well cleaned cases.

As for reloading manuals. Those made by a specific company, especially power or bullet companies typically have only or at the very least are very heavy on their product. Only load data for Hornaday bullets etc. So having more than one may be needed depending on if you are not married to a particular brand of bullets or powder. There is an on line place called loaddata.com that for a few dollars per year you can have access to hundreds of thousands of loads for just about any caliber, bullet weight, and powder manufacture known. You can easily search by any of the above or more than one. i.e. 30-06 and 180 gr bullets. It is a very good resource.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
jumpinjoe said:
Since you mention "case cleaning", I'm assuming the M2 Hornady is indicating a vibrating tumbler. Just FYI, the M2 designation is used in description of several of Hornady's offerings such as their digital scale. Anyway, yes, the M2 tumbler is as good as any, probably bigger than you need, but that's your call. All vibrating tumblers operate on the same principle and most use the same inner workings regardless of the name on it. So, one is probably as good as any other (including the Harbor Freight). Let your 'real' needs and costs, rather than perceived needs and cost be your guide. Spend your money on quality media whether crushed walnut shell, corn cob media, ceramics, etc. Some of the newer stuff that includes a 'polishing' agent can give super results.

If you're actually talking about the M2 digital scale, know that the M3-1500 is every bit as accurate down to .1 grain, with the same max weight ratings to 1500 grains, (which you will never, ever need) and is less than 1/3rd the cost of the M2. And a very big plus with the M3 is that it's battery operated and can be used on the tail gate of your truck (or anywhere else) if need be whereas I'm thinking the M2 requires an electrical outlet (but not certain). The best is that the M3 is considerably smaller and less bulky.

Lyman and Hornady are good loading manuals, so are Sierra, Lee, Speer, Nosler, Berger are all good. You should have at least a couple and always compare load recipes across a couple different ones. Also a great load recipe source is 'Loadbooks' USA. They are a collection of loading manuals but only one caliber per soft back spiral wound book.

Almost every bullet, powder, and cartridge manufacturer provides loading recipes at their own web sites and are typically a good resource. There is also many loading manuals, sources across the I-net, but beware that some are uploaded by folks who think they know far more than they really do. Others are fairly reliable, just beware.

Study well and before you load, then load and watch the results carefully. Don't be afraid to make corrections as necessary. If a manual gives you a 'Starting' load, trust them and work your way up watching the results as you go. Just because any book says (?) grns is a good load for 9mm, accept that it may be a good load in their testing barrels and under testing conditions, but might not be a good load in your personally owned barrel.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all the information!
 
Many folks have adopted the rotary wet polishers. Some use stainless steel pins with them. With or without, you run, rinse and dry. This method requires you decap the primers first. Lemishine is a common additive.
I'm old school and use the dry vibratory polishers. Media choice is corn cob and walnut. Walnut can be cheaply bought as lizard litter. I would avoid media that contains an abrasive as it will wear on your dies. I do not decap before tumbling and am satisfied with the results. There are fewer steps to do it dry than not and being lazy, I'm all for easy.
 
youngolddude said:
Many folks have adopted the rotary wet polishers. Some use stainless steel pins with them. With or without, you run, rinse and dry. This method requires you decap the primers first. Lemishine is a common additive.
I'm old school and use the dry vibratory polishers. Media choice is corn cob and walnut. Walnut can be cheaply bought as lizard litter. I would avoid media that contains an abrasive as it will wear on your dies. I do not decap before tumbling and am satisfied with the results. There are fewer steps to do it dry than not and being lazy, I'm all for easy.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I’m leaning toward the dry vibratory polisher. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
 
Anybody heard of a Company called Handloading Supply? They are located in Westmoreland, KS.
If you have done business with them, was it satisfactory? Thanks for all the help!
 
michael.ed said:
Anybody heard of a Company called Handloading Supply? They are located in Westmoreland, KS.
If you have done business with them, was it satisfactory? Thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...
Sometimes these places show locations, but aren't even there? Do a search for BBB or similar for complaints. If paypal or bitcoin only, then I would say a scam. Check other details for returns and other policies.
 
Well, I ‘tumbled’ my first set of cases and they turned out great. If I can find primers and powder and get the rest of my stuff from Dillon, I’ll be ready to try it out. Thanks to all who have responded. I appreciate all the help!
 
Everyone here is ready and willing to help. So, if you run into a problem or have a question about what you're doing, just let it lay and ask us. Someone will jump in and help keep you straight and safe. And congrats on the case cleaning ... what media did you use?
 
Used the walnut. Ran for about 2.5 hours. Looked great. Yes, I know full well about how helpful this group is. Have been here since the start.
 
michael.ed said:
The one I got is the 550b, which does not come with dies. I went to the Dillon site and used their list of what all I needed. Dies was one of the items.
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Did you have the option of picking a caliber conversion kit? It should come with that.

BTW, Dillon dies are pretty much unavailable right now. Their carbide supplier can't get them any, so they are not producing their dies, which are almost exclusively all carbide. I visit the Dillon store in Scottsdale frequently, since I'm only a few minutes away. They still have no idea when they will be selling dies again. And of course, no primers, and next to no powder.

S.C.
 
If you're going to shoot lead bullets, get the 4 die set. On the 3 die set, the crimping starts before the bullet is fully seated, so you will shave a little bit of lead off the bullet during the crimping stage. It's not much of a problem with jacketed bullets, but there will be some shaving.
 
Yes, I have to order the caliber conversion kit, because the model I got is the 550b. It came with the tool head and some other things. I plan on getting the 9mm kit. I got the Lee 4 die set. Thanks for responding!
 
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