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Why is my barrel scratching up?

Nitride is not a coating but an actual treatment into the metal itself.
Yes, that is correct. But it also serves the same function as a coating, as it protects against corrosion and improves the appearance. Bluing isn't a coating either, Parkerizing we could argue back and fourth on if its just a treatment of the surface.

But Melonite/Tenifer/Nitride is the only treatment that I am aware of that actually hardens the metal and goes more than a few molecules deep past the surface, its more like .007" deep. I've also read it smooths the surface, but I'm not sure if that is because some process have them treat the metal, then polish and repeating it several times. So I don't know if the smoothing comes from the treatment or including polishing in the process.

I think that is why you see a lot of folks refer to the "Finish" of a firearm, cause not all are coating and not all are some sort of treatment of the metal surface.
 
Yes, that is correct. But it also serves the same function as a coating, as it protects against corrosion and improves the appearance. Bluing isn't a coating either, Parkerizing we could argue back and fourth on if its just a treatment of the surface.

But Melonite/Tenifer/Nitride is the only treatment that I am aware of that actually hardens the metal and goes more than a few molecules deep past the surface, its more like .007" deep. I've also read it smooths the surface, but I'm not sure if that is because some process have them treat the metal, then polish and repeating it several times. So I don't know if the smoothing comes from the treatment or including polishing in the process.

I think that is why you see a lot of folks refer to the "Finish" of a firearm, cause not all are coating and not all are some sort of treatment of the metal surface.
As I understand it, bluing adds a slight thickness aka chemical reaction coating to the surface of the metal as does parkerizing. It doesn't penetrate into the metal itself.

In any event and back to @Area52's question, nitride adds corrosion protection. I wouldn't take it off just for looks. Stainless does rust.
 
Well bluing is controlled rusting of the surface and rusting does expand in volume, so it wouldn't be wrong to say it adds some thickness, but I don't think its leaving anything behind, it is simply changing the metal surface. I could be wrong on Parkerizing, I think it leaves something behind, a phosphate that combines with the surface.

The biggest argument against removing a melonite/nitride coating is that I don't think there is a tougher coating or treatment you can replace it with, other than PVD. And for a barrel in a semi-automatic pistol, that has a lot of abrasion, the Melonte/Nitride that is better in abrasion resistance is probably the toughest you can get for a barrel. Other parts of the pistols, PVD is probably the toughest.

PVD is a coating, Melonite is a metal treatment, that is probably why you don't see barrels PVD coated and many Melonite. A coating rubs off with abrasion, even a really tough metal like coating like PVD. A metal treatment like Melonite/Nitride, stays until the metal wears down, and even then as it wears down it just changes slightly in appearance and doesn't go completely away, like a coating would, that is because the treatment goes under the surface of the metal.
 
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Curious, has anyone ever buffed off and polished the exterior black finish (Nitride/Melonite/etc) on the exposed barrel, and would that cause any affect with rust protection? Of course the scratching will occur anyway just not so obvious if that’s bothersome sight.
I have never tried to remove Melonite, my understanding of it is that it is metal treatment that actually goes below the surface. What I have observed of melonite, it doesn't really wear off, it just lightens up to varying degrees with wear. Which supports its being a treatment that permeates below the surface. As the surface wears off the metal, it exposes the metal below the surface that is still treated but probably a lighter color.

So I suspect and I could be wrong, if you try to remove it you can't without removing the metal surface, it will just lighten up as take some metal off the surface. The protection would still be there, but probably a little less effective than the strongest treated at the surface metal.
 
All stainless will and can rust some easier than others.
Just a reminder, I had a S&W 629 that had the Goncalvo Ives wooden grips, now I would yearly remove them and clean and oil the frame area, yes, any stainless will rust, depends on how you take care of it, my 629 did have slight rust under the grips, easy to remove, but you still have to take care of any stainless steel gun.
 
Just a reminder, I had a S&W 629 that had the Goncalvo Ives wooden grips, now I would yearly remove them and clean and oil the frame area, yes, any stainless will rust, depends on how you take care of it, my 629 did have slight rust under the grips, easy to remove, but you still have to take care of any stainless steel gun.
This is also a glaring reminder that all metal products need to be maintained to increase their service life, this includes but is not limited to regular cleaning and oiling “if possible” and recommended. I remember being told to increase the life cycle of an exhaust system was to regularly get it hot enough to burn out water that is a byproduct of combustion and if allowed to remain will rust out a muffler in short order and even though current exhaust systems are made from stainless steel they will still rust out.
 
This is also a glaring reminder that all metal products need to be maintained to increase their service life, this includes but is not limited to regular cleaning and oiling “if possible” and recommended. I remember being told to increase the life cycle of an exhaust system was to regularly get it hot enough to burn out water that is a byproduct of combustion and if allowed to remain will rust out a muffler in short order and even though current exhaust systems are made from stainless steel they will still rust out.
Hmmm, not the best analogy. I agree about metal needing to be maintained, its not that hard. But if you put metal away and not come back to it for years, you can easily find corrosion, even on blued metal.

Exhaust systems, the biggest thing that makes a car exhaust corrode is the heat it is exposed to. Put your pistol in an oven to heat it up to 600°F - 350°F several times a day for as long as you drive your car that day, you'll find it is corroding very quickly over a year or two.

Heat and temperature will always speed up a chemical reaction, and that is what corrosion is, a chemical reaction with the metal and oxygen.

And you do see machine gun barrels that get much hotter in use than most firearms, and if not maintained properly, do tend to corrode faster/more than other firearms or parts.

Yes the exhaust has water in it that can get into the exhaust. It as much getting the engine warm enough to get the exhaust warm enough that the water stays as steam and doesn't condense as liquid water, and the exhaust system will cause the exhaust to cool as before it leaves. And stainless steel exhaust will use different alloys of stainless steel, some rust faster than others. And the design of the exhaust itself will dictate how hot it will get and how much water it will trap, as well as the engine it is installed on. So it just turns out some combinations will corrode much faster than others due to a combination of a bunch of variables, and I haven't even gotten into road salt, regardless if you get it warm enough to evaporate the liquid water out or not.
Also, tolerances on mass produced guns mean each gun produced sits inside a range of what’s acceptable. If your barrel/slide combo sits at one end of the tolerances, the contact area is going to wear more.
Stacking of Tolerances plays into that as well, multiple parts designed to fit together, if you're unlucky enough to have two parts at the limit of their tolerance in opposite directions, then that adds up for being out of tolerance overall. Or the term is used in design, that they design for stacking tolerances so that even in the worse case scenario of tolerances for individual parts, won't put it out of tolerance overall after being assembled.
 
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Hmmm, not the best analogy. I agree about metal needing to be maintained, its not that hard. But if you put metal away and not come back to it for years, you can easily find corrosion, even on blued metal.

Exhaust systems, the biggest thing that makes a car exhaust corrode is the heat it is exposed to. Put your pistol in an oven to heat it up to 600°F - 350°F several times a day for as long as you drive your car that day, you'll find it is corroding very quickly over a year or two.

Heat and temperature will always speed up a chemical reaction, and that is what corrosion is, a chemical reaction with the metal and oxygen.

And you do see machine gun barrels that get much hotter in use than most firearms, and if not maintained properly, do tend to corrode faster/more than other firearms or parts.

Yes the exhaust has water in it that can get into the exhaust. It as much getting the engine warm enough to get the exhaust warm enough that the water stays as steam and doesn't condense as liquid water, and the exhaust system will cause the exhaust to cool as before it leaves. And stainless steel exhaust will use different alloys of stainless steel, some rust faster than others. And the design of the exhaust itself will dictate how hot it will get and how much water it will trap, as well as the engine it is installed on. So it just turns out some combinations will corrode much faster than others due to a combination of a bunch of variables, and I haven't even gotten into road salt, regardless if you get it warm enough to evaporate the liquid water out or not.

Stacking of Tolerances plays into that as well, multiple parts designed to fit together, if you're unlucky enough to have two parts at the limit of their tolerance in opposite directions, then that adds up for being out of tolerance overall. Or the term is used in design, that they design for stacking tolerances so that even in the worse case scenario of tolerances for individual parts, won't put it out of tolerance overall after being assembled.
Feel free to look at it your way I’ll stick with mine.
 
Stacking of Tolerances plays into that as well, multiple parts designed to fit together, if you're unlucky enough to have two parts at the limit of their tolerance in opposite directions, then that adds up for being out of tolerance overall. Or the term is used in design, that they design for stacking tolerances so that even in the worse case scenario of tolerances for individual parts, won't put it out of tolerance overall after being assembled.
That's easy for you to say.
 
why is this happening? my 1st Hellcat didn't scratch like this.
View attachment 31445
Did you fill in the hellcat writing with paint? My hellcat pro is just an engraving basically in the metal. Wondering how your writing is white and mine isn’t, hmm! Also I’ve only put 50 rounds through mine. I just got it. So I don’t have the markings you do yet, however my other guns have this. So I would say it’s normal.
 
Did you fill in the hellcat writing with paint? My hellcat pro is just an engraving basically in the metal. Wondering how your writing is white and mine isn’t, hmm! Also I’ve only put 50 rounds through mine. I just got it. So I don’t have the markings you do yet, however my other guns have this. So I would say it’s normal.
Welcome to the forum from South Texas.
 
It’s normal wear.

There’s a few reasons why your other hasn’t; lower round count, possibly a slightly different finish, different care, different tolerance, a combination of some/all of the above.

Don’t sweat it.
Hans has it right my S&W M&P's, Sig P-series, SA Echelon all show this wear not so much with 1911's. I use a light coat of Lucas gun grease to help with metal to metal friction.
 
That post is two years old. He’s sold that for an Sig or HK by now. 😎😇
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Hans has it right my S&W M&P's, Sig P-series, SA Echelon all show this wear not so much with 1911's. I use a light coat of Lucas gun grease to help with metal to metal friction.
This. I learned a long time ago to put a few drops of Lucas Gun oil (spread around with a q-tip) on the inside of the slide where the barrel contacts the slide and it greatly reduces wear on the top of the barrel chamber. I have over 2000 rounds thru my Echelon and the top of the barrel has minimum wear.
459307398_10223789924529838_3966318498611126123_n.jpg
 
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