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Stripped T-10 torx screw in XDM Elite optic plate

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Minuteman76

Operator
Not a gunsmith; but I just got this Springfield XDM Elite 9mm, haven't fired it yet, but just unboxed it, was going to put on a Trijicon RMR. Right out of the box the rear screw was stripped (I may have screwed it up as well) and I can't get it out--so I can't even remove the plate.

Does anyone have any experience with this, it seems like it's not an uncommon problem. I'm inclined to send back to Springfield and have them deal with it. Any tips? I don't want to screw up a brand new pistol nor make the work any worse for the next joker that has to fix it--and I have no experience tapping out a screw.

Thank you! Ted
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Looks like both the screws I can see are trashed.

I don't know. Someone here might have a solution, but I think your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith.

One future tip I can give you. Don't use T-10 bits on nut driver handles. Get an actual, hardened set of Torx drivers.

I'd be very curious to know if these screws had Loc-Tite on them.
 
Bassbob said:
Looks like both the screws I can see are trashed.

I don't know. Someone here might have a solution, but I think your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith.

One future tip I can give you. Don't use T-10 bits on nut driver handles. Get an actual, hardened set of Torx drivers.

I'd be very curious to know if these screws had Loc-Tite on them.
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thank you! The other screw is already loose and might be stripped, not sure. I used the allen wrench that came w/ the pistol which should've worked. I have the time and patience to send back to Springfield as a warranty thing which the SHOULD honor, I'd think.

I was going to do the soldering iron tip to the screw and loosen the loctite but the more I jack with it, the worse I'll make it and **** off the gunsmith worse. thx for your tips.
 
Bassbob said:
Looks like both the screws I can see are trashed.

I don't know. Someone here might have a solution, but I think your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith.

One future tip I can give you. Don't use T-10 bits on nut driver handles. Get an actual, hardened set of Torx drivers.

I'd be very curious to know if these screws had Loc-Tite on them.
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On my XDm Elite compact, there was no loc-tite, but somebody must have used an impact driver on them, was a riot trying to get them out, no need for them to be that tight, came from Springfield that way
 
Annihilator said:
On my XDm Elite compact, there was no loc-tite, but somebody must have used an impact driver on them, was a riot trying to get them out, no need for them to be that tight, came from Springfield that way
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Totally agree. I should've been able to buy it w/ the optic plate adapter already installed, in my opinion. This is an unnecessary hassle. Optic ready? I guess kinda ready.
 
Minuteman76 said:
thank you! The other screw is already loose and might be stripped, not sure. I used the allen wrench that came w/ the pistol which should've worked. I have the time and patience to send back to Springfield as a warranty thing which the SHOULD honor, I'd think.

I was going to do the soldering iron tip to the screw and loosen the loctite but the more I jack with it, the worse I'll make it and **** off the gunsmith worse. thx for your tips.
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So there was Loc-Tite on the screws?

You can do a search here for Bassbob and Loc Tite and see some of the conversation we have here about that. I had a similar incident as you only it was a Sig Romeo 5 Red dot and I had to drill the screw out. This happened because I used Blue Loc-Tite and did NOT use a torque wrench. So the screw was most probably over torqued. Now that's not to say the over tightening of the screw wasn't the primary reason, but it lead me to a rather lengthy bit of research into LocTite in general and Blue LocTite specifically.

I talked to several local gunsmiths I know and a Boeing engineer. Most of the smiths said they don't even allow the stuff in their shop and the engineer told me if you need to use LocTite then the screw is junk or the thread/pitch is wrong or the design is bad. Now to be sure, there are a lot of gunsmiths and companies that reccomend Blue LocTite for these kind of applications, but it should be noted that most major scope manufacturers do not. I should also point out that Blue LocTite is rated for 1/4" screws, which these are not even close to, though plenty of people use it and have no problems. If I were to ever use Loc-Tite again it would be the purple stuff. My guess is the main problem I had and the problem with yours is that the screws are severely over torqued. That coupled with using cheap bits that break and likely not getting a perfect purchase on the screw is my bet.

And back to the Loc-Tite for just a second. Most torque ratings are for clean and dry screws. Clean means cleaned with a solvent like brake cleaner or something and then allowed to completely dry. Then torque to specs. When you put LocTite on a screw you have now added a lubricant since it is wet. Does this change torque ratings ? I have read where some guys from the company that makes LocTite said yes and you should decrease the torque value by 15-20%. Other people say it makes no difference.

Me personally, I think if you need LocTite then something else is wrong. I degrease the screws and torque them properly and have not had any of my optics move. Even on 12 gauge shotguns. That said, I think if you were to use LocTite ( I would highly recommend the purple, not the blue) and torque it properly you would be fine. Just be sure to use a quality tool for removal and be sure to get a damn good purchase on the screw head.
 
Bassbob said:
Any hardened Torx driver set will work. In fact Primary Arms has a nice set for under $20. While you're there get a Torque driver. They have several to choose from. The regular Wheeler Fat Wrench is about $5o and worth every penny.
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that's it! said weaver, meant wheeler. Got that to mount a scope on an AR; and agree--good value and kept me from overdoing it which appears to be very easy.🏋️‍♂️
 
Minuteman76 said:
I'll certainly keep that in mind and step down from the blue to the purple, clean it prior, and use my weaver torque screwdriver to set it properly. I think these were really over torqued with someone's idiot strength.
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Most manufacturers have torque specs. In general for something like Optic plates or mounting a pic rail you are looking at 25-30 inch lbs. The smaller screws in the optic itself and the scope rings around 15-18 inch lbs. Best to check with the manufacturer to be sure though.
 
When I had my ordeal with the Romeo I ended up screwing up the pic rail on the top of my new Beretta 1301 Tactical. I bought a new rail from Beretta. Their customer service department still hasn't responded to my request for torque specs a year later. I talked to the guys at Brownells though and they told me. If memory serves it was 25-ish to mount the pic rail to the receiver. I did not use LocTIte. I have since shot a few thousand rounds, mostly buckshot and slugs, through that gun and my optic is still zero'ed and the rail is still tighter than a gnat's ass.
 
Minuteman76 said:
I'm probably going to have to try to find replacement screws for this which will probably be another ordeal. If anyone has the best place to order screws for pistol optics, i'd be happy to hear where to get them
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Call SA. At a minimum they can tell you what size the screws are. Someone here probably can. Then you can just go to Lowes or HD and get some the right length.
 
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