testtest

300 Blackout...... Tips

My new never fired SIG brass runs 1.357" and the once fired Hornady is 1.360"
Lyman gives a case length of 1.368" and a trim to 1.358"
 
Got to have enough crimp to hold the bullet from setting back in the case due to recoil. had a time with that on the 357SIG round. Got a Lee factory crimp die and fixed it.
That in mind I have a Lee factory crimp die for the 300BO also.
 
123gr Lapua fmj @ 1.976" w/ lil gun 18.8gr est velocity @ 8.5" barrel 1,909v = 1,003 fpe
15804326656532385484407564914350.jpg
 
Right now I'm just wanting too get 1k#s of muzzle energy no matter of bullet weight, unless for the heavy ones that don't have enough room for powder.
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
Funny, right! We must be the experts!
Click to expand...
I can't hardly be classified an expert as I have yet to reload a single round.
We may be the only two here that shoot it. I still have yet to do the cleaning of it.
Last time I had this frame in my hands was M-16 qualification. Back when the M-16
was still full auto.
 
SMSgtRod said:
I can't hardly be classified an expert as I have yet to reload a single round.
We may be the only two here that shoot it. I still have yet to do the cleaning of it.
Last time I had this frame in my hands was M-16 qualification. Back when the M-16
was still full auto.
Click to expand...
Whoops...count me in. I “built” my first AR in 300 Blackout because I wanted an excuse to load the 225 new Norma cases I bought from bullets.com in their GOOB sale. When my subs consistently keyholed I ”built” a 10.5” AR because an “expert” on another forum said you can’t stabilize subs in an 8.5” barrel. (Wrong!)
Then I bought a replacement 10.5” barrel in pistol gas, because I don’t have a suppressor, (and I erroneously bought a carbine gas barrel).
I have to admit, it was a sweet shooting single-fire AR. Haven’t fired my newest barrel yet...but have multiple test ladders to tryout. N120, IMR 4227, A1680, and CFE-BLK tossed in for grins.

So, no expert here either, but not afraid to throw good money after bad trying to make it run. As for my 8.5” AR, a fellow enthusiast advised that he removed his birdcage muzzle device and his subs run straight and true. I have a new device to try out, but focused on getting my 10.5“ test fired.
 
markr6754 said:
Whoops...count me in. I “built” my first AR in 300 Blackout because I wanted an excuse to load the 225 new Norma cases I bought from bullets.com in their GOOB sale. When my subs consistently keyholed I ”built” a 10.5” AR because an “expert” on another forum said you can’t stabilize subs in an 8.5” barrel. (Wrong!)
Then I bought a replacement 10.5” barrel in pistol gas, because I don’t have a suppressor, (and I erroneously bought a carbine gas barrel).
I have to admit, it was a sweet shooting single-fire AR. Haven’t fired my newest barrel yet...but have multiple test ladders to tryout. N120, IMR 4227, A1680, and CFE-BLK tossed in for grins.

So, no expert here either, but not afraid to throw good money after bad trying to make it run. As for my 8.5” AR, a fellow enthusiast advised that he removed his birdcage muzzle device and his subs run straight and true. I have a new device to try out, but focused on getting my 10.5“ test fired.
Click to expand...
What is the twist on your barrels?
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
What is the twist on your barrels?
Click to expand...
All of my .300 barrels are 1:7. Plenty fast to my understanding. I could understand if my hand loads were unstable...still new to loading rifle rounds...but factory rounds keyhole as well, whether Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, Sig Sauer, or Armscor.
 
If you are reloading, most data is for a 16" barrel test. If you are wanting sub loads don't reduce your powder based on the bullet. The barrel you have is shorter than the test barrel, then subtract about 20-30fps per inch and see if it at sub speeds. You will need the extra powder for better function most likely! If you have any questions contact me and I'll help you!
 
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