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Cleaning methods?

Old_Me said:
yeah, i should have thought about the moisture from the compressor. i use such a low volume of air, so as to not knock off any springs, that are super tiny.

i checked with Home Depot, they have the exact filter as in the video. Harbor Freights filter IS cheaper, just not in stock.

no worries, for like nearly $19 in cost.

picking it up tomorrow.
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Good point about the low volume of air. I feather the blowgun handle to limit the flow. Turning down the pressure regulator can help also. I also keep a couple cans of canned air on my cleaning bench for more delicate parts.
 
Annihilator said:
Honestly, I don’t worry about inside the frames of my polymer guns, I just use those big cotton gun cleaning swabs, they look like Q-tips but on steroids, I use them dry, never had any issues with them, use them dry, seems to work well for me
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Harbor Freight sells a great assortment of multiple sized wood handle Q-tips for cleaning. I picked these up last week.

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RickAnderson said:
There is a million ways to skin a cat, there is no one right way, although some are better than others.
Since there is no longer any corrosive powders or primers being used, and modern designs are more reliable, having to clean your firearm immediately after shooting every time is no longer necessary. In fact, I swear I see some fan boys of a particular brand not cleaning their firearms as some sort of bragging rights as too how long they can go without cleaning before suffering any kind of malfunction.

IMO, bore cleaner is called that for a reason, use it for cleaning the bore only, then several swatches thru to get the loosened stuff out, then swatches with gun oil to protect the bore from corrosion. Sure, as an exception, use bore cleaner for something else that is stubborn, but that should be the exception, not the rule.

Safest thing to clean with is the same oil you lubricate it with, that is the military's position, the "C" in CLP stands for Cleaning. Its safe for polymer, military has had various forms of plastic on their firearms for nearly a 100 years, been using CLP for nearly 50 years. But its also one the less effective cleaners, at least in time and effort, it will take longer and more work to clean the weapon.

Some of the chemical cleaners for firearms have some nasty solvents that can damage the polymer, at least the surface and change its appearance. Make sure any cleaner you buy says its safe for polymer/plastic.

I know some will scream sacrilege, but on my polymer frames, I have been spraying them down, inside and out with simply green, scrubbing with a brush and rags, then flushing out the simple green with denatured alcohol, (you don't want to let Simple green lay on metal inside the frame) then oiling it up and wiping down the polymer with a little gun oil or WD-40 (on the exterior only). The denatured alcohol will dry thing out so bad, it will look bad, so wiping it down with something makes it look better. Obviously lubricate it well, cause that cleaning regime will remove just about all the lubricant in the frame.....

Simple Green is bad for aluminum, something about how alkaline it is, true you can use it without damage if you flush it all away, but something like an aluminum frame or receiver, like an AR-15, there are nocks and crannies for it to get into and lay there long term and could do some damage.
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Thank you for the detailed reply!
 
Bassbob said:
However often or extensively you decide to clean your firearm, as Rick said, use bore solvent ONLY ON THE BORE. CLP and other cleaners generally will not hurt the frame of your gun. I typically clean my guns after I shoot them. Plastic striker guns I will lightly spray a rag with CLP and wipe the frame, then hit it with a clean, dry rag and put a drop of oil on the rails and where metal contacts metal. With the gun disassembled, manipulate the trigger and look and see where the engagement points are. Just a drop.

Use a CLP sprayed rag to clean the slide and the outside of the barrel. Make sure to get the breech face and the rails. Keep solvents and oils out of the striker channel. Clean the bore/barrel with bore cleaner and then lightly oil the same as you would any gun.
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Thank you for the info.
 
The Night Rider said:
I clean my Glocks with Dawn and hot water
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RickAnderson said:
Why not put it in the dishwasher?
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sockswithcrocs said:
Huh, didn't know you could do that.
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I think Night Rider might be joking, and I was half joking in my reply to him as well.

But people have done that. And put gun parts in dishwashers as well.

Back in the day of corrosive powders and primers, cleaning with hot soapy water was more common because it was so effective at flushing the corrosive residue out of the firearm. The logic being the corrosive residue would do more damage than any water that didn't get dried out of the gun and cause a little rust.

But today, there are no more corrosive powders/primers and so the balance has fallen to don't risk the corrosion that can come from water trapped in nooks & crannies in the firearm causing rust.

I think I posted a little earlier, I have used hot soapy water on my firearm projects where I have the firearm completely disassembled (not field stripped, every part taken apart) parts completely bare and you can get it completely dry much easier with a far lesser chance of rust.

Dishwasher get pretty darn hot, and there are a lot of polymer and plastic today in firearms. Yet I put tupperware in the dishwasher without damage, so put your polymer on the top shelf. But I think chances are high you could end up sorry if you don't have the parts stripped down bare. Might find rusty water dribbling from the firing pin hole.
 
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