testtest

Grease v Oil

Attachments

  • 20230108_182935.jpg
    20230108_182935.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 115
HansGruber said:
So…here’s a dirty little secret.

AR’s don’t need nearly as much lube as you all think they do, and will run a LOT longer without it than you could dream.

Click to expand...
I wonder how much Slip 2000 they lubed it with before they started ?

I have generally went with what I read when I first got one, which directed me to lube the bolt and rails generously with CLP and just a light coat of oil as you would on any metal parts for the rest of the unfinished parts of the gun. I have never once oiled or lubed a buffer tube, spring or buffer. In my mind that just seems like a bad idea. Generally springs get cleaned but not lubed or if lubed not left wet. Slathering grease all over them seems like a bad idea.
 
The gas rings (lubed/oiled as to stay cleaner longer) can be a problem as I've had issues with compared to the rest of the bcg. Carbon in the extension is/has been the 2nd issue. Upper, spring and buffer has been the least of the problem. Well in most of the ar10's anyway. The AP nitride bcg's have been better than phosphate and np3 or other coated carriers I've used with longer between cleanings.
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
The gas rings (lubed/oiled as to stay cleaner longer) can be a problem as I've had issues with compared to the rest of the bcg. Carbon in the extension is/has been the 2nd issue. Upper, spring and buffer has been the least of the problem. Well in most of the ar10's anyway. The AP nitride bcg's have been better than phosphate and np3 or other coated carriers I've used with longer between cleanings.
Click to expand...
I was told not to lube the gas rings.
 
Bassbob said:
I use Lucas oil extreme CLP. I'm really not sold on actual grease of any kind. I would like to try some LSA, but lack of availability coupled with many, MANY recommendations is pushing me towards Slip 2000 EWL.
Click to expand...
All has its place and/or purpose, just finding what works for that firearm is the search? THEN, hoping they don't change the product after finding what works! Thinking back.............I don't remember my dad ever cleaning a firearm? The most used gun was a 22lr auto and a 22mag auto. Lots of prairie dog practice!
 
I have never encountered any problem I could attribute to lubricant whether using grease or oil to lubricate both pistols or rifles.

The grease I use is the modern light greases, like TW-25 or Lucas Gun Grease, not the axle grease used on some parts of the M-1 Garand.

In fact, my Ruger 22/45, dirties up quickly and starts stove piping rounds. I found using light grease sparingly, it doesn't do that. And that likely is because with this pistol using .22LR, any oil in it turns into a black gritty soup after a couple dozen rounds.

My AR and other pistols, honestly I can't tell a difference in reliability or performance whether I use lightweight gun grease or gun oil.... ..Sometimes using grease, I notice not as much dirt is captured, but that may also be because I'm over oiling, creating a dirt trap...

Of course I'm the guy that oiled the striker in his first striker pistol, then embarrassed himself when shooting in 5°F weather, when showing off his striker pistol, for it not to fire a single round and every round ejected had not a single mark on the primer... ...learned that lesson the hard way...
 
Bassbob said:
I use Lucas oil extreme CLP. I'm really not sold on actual grease of any kind. I would like to try some LSA, but lack of availability coupled with many, MANY recommendations is pushing me towards Slip 2000 EWL.
Click to expand...
The only place I've ever used grease is on rails. My .45's and 10mm 1911's like it. Just enough for a film. To be truthful I've used on some polymer framed handguns as well.
It tends to stay put longer. IMHO of course.
 
Pitdogg2 said:
The only place I've ever used grease is on rails. My .45's and 10mm 1911's like it. Just enough for a film. To be truthful I've used on some polymer framed handguns as well.
It tends to stay put longer. IMHO of course.
Click to expand...
Funny you mention that.... ....my 80% frame project 1911, the rail is really tight, which may sound impressive until you have the slide dragging and short stroking with any dirt getting in the oil, extreme cold, etc....

I tried to run the rails dry in hopes of breaking in the rails to wear a bit and open up clearances....
Best I could do, without degreasing the whole pistol, is the finest film of oil or grease, and son of a gun, it runs perfect and never stops....

Need to try it in cold weather again, even though the pistol was warmed soaked, it had Wilson Combat Universal Lube on the rails, plus the rails being so tight. Just setting the pistol out in 5° weather for 5 minutes to set up, the slide moved in slow motion as I dropped it to chamber a round. And it just got worse from there, don't know if the slide tightened up on the rails just from it cooling or the lube thickened in temps way to low, or likely it was a combination of both....
 
Bassbob said:
So out of boredom mostly I have been researching "Best" lubes for ARs. Lots of opinions out there, so what's yours ?

Grease ? If so, what and where ( specifically) and under what conditions ( temperature) ?

Oil ? If so, what and where ?
Click to expand...
Bassbob, consider checking out WEAPON SHIELD products who makes a grease and CLP products. The videos on this product are impressive. The guy in the videos puts this product head to head with products I know you are familiar with and you can see first hand how they stack up. This stuff meets MILL-L-634600 ratings. I have been using this stuff for years now and very happy with the products. The videos made me give this stuff a try. www.steelshieldtech.com. These products do not contain volatiles or solvents. The videos and web site can answer your questions IE temperature. Hope this helps brother
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top