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Gun Safes

check the second hand market. Lots of folks out there that don’t want to move theirs either. I would get a larger one to grow into since you are already on a slab. When it comes time to move , two men and a truck. They got the big uglies that are up for the challenge.
^ This^

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We bought this Liberty Centurion from an USAF Lt. Who was on his way to SHAFE from Peterson Air Force Base.

We paid $325, they sell new for over $600.
 
Tractor Supply?
Never heard of Tracker Supply.
I just read that Tractor Supply is the largest seller of gun safes by volume in the USA, seems strange.
I have one. Fire and flood rated. 5 pins. Pretty big. I paid under $500 for it. It won't keep a determined thief with a circular saw and at least a half hour they can make a lot of noise out, if they can find it, but that's not really something I have to worry too much about. Besides, the good stuff is in a different safe they will never find, even with all the time in the world.
 
I recently bought a Browning sp23 made by pro-steel. Very nice, not stupid expensive. It beat a lot of the safes on a gun safe review site and has one of 3 recommended digital lockpads. I also spent the money to warranty the safe for my lifetime should anything happen. They will pay for the locksmith and make it right. If anyone trys to defeat it or I have a fire a new safe will be sent to my house.
If I had deep pockets I'd buy one of these. I have a friend who has one and they are a beast.

Kind of ugly, but it could be real fugly if it works and is one heck of a mother to defeat.

 
For those wanting to research safes or see if they have been reviewed. This is the safe I bought.


This is the main page.
 
I've been putting this off for awhile now, but me and my g/f closed on a house yesterday so now that I
1. Have the space, and
2. Will have people coming from all over to visit us since we can put them up, Have the need for one.

I do not have nearly as many firearms as alot of you guys here, so I do not need a giant safe. One to fit maybe 3-5 long guns and a few handguns / ammo / important documents should suffice.

I've dealt with alot of safe companies / manufacturers in the past as I used to run a locksmith & door company back in NYC, but I am curious as to what you guys use, who you prefer, and so on. Lay it on me fellas. As always, much appreciated.
Browning, Ft Knox are both very good. As an aside, if you think you’ll bemoving in the future, a Zanotti modular is tough to beat. My son’s a (now retired) career Marine. He moved a lot and bought a Zanotti years ago to take with him. He’d knock it down, move, and then reassemble it on his own-a LOT easier to move than a traditional safe
 
What you'll discover is safes are quickly outgrown. Frame in the window of what was supposed to be your guest room, hang 1" drywall over the existing, install a supervised alarm sensor on the door, and install one of these. Plenty of room to grow the collection and a great ammo storage space.
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What you'll discover is safes are quickly outgrown. Frame in the window of what was supposed to be your guest room, hang 1" drywall over the existing, install a supervised alarm sensor on the door, and install one of these. Plenty of room to grow the collection and a great ammo storage space.
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Set ups like this have never been on my radar. You can put 4” of drywall up and I can still easily kick a hole in the wall and climb through.
 
Set ups like this have never been on my radar. You can put 4” of drywall up and I can still easily kick a hole in the wall and climb through.
The drywall is for fire resistance. 1" theoretically provides a one hour rating. Someone can also easily kick my front door down and cart a safe away if they come prepared. If someone wants you stuff bad enough and you aren't home to protect it, they're going to get it. Being that your stuff could "easily" be accessed and taken, which solution looks cooler, a safe or a vault door? :unsure: :ROFLMAO:
 
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The drywall is for fire resistance. 1" theoretically provides a one hour rating. Someone can also easily kick my front door down and cart a safe away if they come prepared. If someone wants you stuff bad enough and you aren't home to protect it, they're going to get it. Being that your stuff could "easily" be accessed and taken, which solution looks cooler, a safe or a vault door? :unsure: :ROFLMAO:
The idea is to make it as hard and time consuming as possible. Steel is harder to defeat than drywall. And a safe door in a wall might as well have a sign on it that says “ kick this wall in, there’s cool stuff inside”. Not to mention that now anyone who comes in your house for any reason sees it.

I have a few safes. And it’s going to take you a long time to find a couple of them, much less cut them open.
 
Hi,

I'm glad this thread was resurrected. With this old noob's growing collection, I need to invest in something more substantial soon. I can't get anything too large because it has to go downstairs in the basement. My small collection has only four long guns and about a dozen handguns. So far. :LOL:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

I'm glad this thread was resurrected. With this old noob's growing collection, I need to invest in something more substantial soon. I can't get anything too large because it has to go downstairs in the basement. My small collection has only four long guns and about a dozen handguns. So far. :LOL:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff


Here's the thing about safes Cliff. Unless you are willing to spend at least a couple grand for a serious safe, the best you can do is buy one that will keep run of the mill dirtbags out of it and make it time consuming and noisy to break into. So your choices really are to spend a large sum of money on a professional grade safe, spend somewhere in the $500-$1200 ( depending on the size) range for something fairly decent that will keep most people out, especially if you hide it, place it against a wall and bolt it to something solid, or spend $200 on what is essentially a sheet metal gun locker that my 15 year old nephew could break into with a flat bar. You definitely want one with at least 4 1" bolts that weighs at least 400 lbs empty. Then you want to do everything in your power to make it difficult to find quickly. Then you place it against a wall because most safes you can cut the top off of with a circular saw, so only give them one full side and two partial sides to cut. It's still going to take them a good bit of time to cut through it and it will clearly make a lot of noise.

A couple other tips. Buy a bigger safe than you currently need. I would say the minimum is something like the Winchester 26 gun safe, which is usually in the $400-$500 range. I have one. I also have it's bigger brother. I also have one I won't discuss here which has about the same sq. ft. inside as the 26 gun safe and is difficult and time consuming to get to even by me and impossible to find. And I could use more space. Both my Winchester safes are hidden pretty well, but not as well as the other one.


There are several brands that are easily as good as the Winchesters, but for what they are I would class them all pretty much the same, so get one you like, one with an E lock AND a key lock ( usually under the keypad) and get one in your price range.


I have these two and I have no complaints.


 
I seem to have a safe philosophy that doesn't connect with many...

A gun safe only buys you time. Either from fire or from an illicit entry. Any safe can be breeched, the better ones take longer to get into with a saw or torch. Thus, I have (for several years) bought into the idea of having as many small safes as you can house. Each one needing to be broken into separately....taking significantly more time than one big safe. Thus that strategy protects "some" of your collection.... for significantly longer. I know I differ from most, but I'd rather have 5 or 6 long-gun safes than one massive $12,000 Liberty in the house. Anchor them all in series and you reduce exposed surfaces by 50% on the interior safes. Multiple smaller safes can purchased incrementally, thus reducing initial cash outlay. Just my 2-cents (stole your line Talyn).
 
Here's the thing about safes Cliff. Unless you are willing to spend at least a couple grand for a serious safe, the best you can do is buy one that will keep run of the mill dirtbags out of it and make it time consuming and noisy to break into. So your choices really are to spend a large sum of money on a professional grade safe, spend somewhere in the $500-$1200 ( depending on the size) range for something fairly decent that will keep most people out, especially if you hide it, place it against a wall and bolt it to something solid, or spend $200 on what is essentially a sheet metal gun locker that my 15 year old nephew could break into with a flat bar. You definitely want one with at least 4 1" bolts that weighs at least 400 lbs empty. Then you want to do everything in your power to make it difficult to find quickly. Then you place it against a wall because most safes you can cut the top off of with a circular saw, so only give them one full side and two partial sides to cut. It's still going to take them a good bit of time to cut through it and it will clearly make a lot of noise.

A couple other tips. Buy a bigger safe than you currently need. I would say the minimum is something like the Winchester 26 gun safe, which is usually in the $400-$500 range. I have one. I also have it's bigger brother. I also have one I won't discuss here which has about the same sq. ft. inside as the 26 gun safe and is difficult and time consuming to get to even by me and impossible to find. And I could use more space. Both my Winchester safes are hidden pretty well, but not as well as the other one.


There are several brands that are easily as good as the Winchesters, but for what they are I would class them all pretty much the same, so get one you like, one with an E lock AND a key lock ( usually under the keypad) and get one in your price range.


I have these two and I have no complaints.


Well said bb this is where I am at my house is on a wooden tongue and groove floor so there is no way that if I got a 2000 safe it can go in the house . Now the garage is a cement floor so if I was to spend 2000 or more it would have to go in the garage. The draw back in the garage the temperature not to good for guns and ammo . The house is perfect temperature so it’s a cheaper safe which I have I spent 500 or so for it and I just got a steel cabinet next to the safe for ammo . So I will go with this set up for now
 
Well said bb this is where I am at my house is on a wooden tongue and groove floor so there is no way that if I got a 2000 safe it can go in the house . Now the garage is a cement floor so if I was to spend 2000 or more it would have to go in the garage. The draw back in the garage the temperature not to good for guns and ammo . The house is perfect temperature so it’s a cheaper safe which I have I spent 500 or so for it and I just got a steel cabinet next to the safe for ammo . So I will go with this set up for now
I keep my ammo in the green metal ammo cans. And I have a S-ton of them. They are out of sight, but if someone was to start breaking down locked closet doors they would find it. No room in the safes for ammo other than what's in the guns and mags that accompany them. There is one exception I won't discuss.

It's a good set up. I went to a thrift store and found a duvay or hutch or whatever you want to call it, a cabinet. Then gutted it and set it over a safe.

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