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Let's see your AR setups...

Except we’re talking about a PDW, here. A 6MOA dot will only cover 3” at 50 yards, which, let’s face it, is a pretty long poke with a sub-10” barrel…not too serious.

Bigger dots are better for quick acquisition at close range.
Depends on how far the dot is away from your eye. It acts differently than when you hold a finger in front of your eye and move it away from you. You can see around the dot more, but covers more than the xxx moa. From a shouldered position then you at 50 yards it will cover 3" on a 6moa dot.
 
@TEXASforLIFE , I don't disagree with what you're saying. but my experience -as well as what I've been taught- have been different, and that drives my difference of opinion. :)

For me, personally, due to my astigmatism (-1.25/-1.00 OD/OS), I had a hard limit on 4 MOA dots (my personal preference - the setup on my HD AR, it's based on my nearsightedness and the thought that I may not have time to don my corrective eyewear) at about the 160 yard line (target would be a 6" circle). I've always thought that this is my true limiting factor when playing with RDSs (either holographic or reflex, it doesn't matter - what I mean by RDSs is simply anything that's not an etched reticle), however, at Alliance PD's "Basic Carbine" class (I lucked into it being taught by John Chapman - aka "Chappy." Yeah, an 8-hour day with Chappy for just $100. 😁 ) changed my mind.

He's considered by many to be an SME in terms of optics, lights, and night-vision gear, and as a result, he's worked with many of the top optics makes in the industry. What I was able to pick from him truly set me on a new path where it comes to RDS use. I discussed with him my troubles with my 4MOA Aimpoint T1 at a previous classes, when I got out to about the 165 yard distance, and he simply shook his head, and told me straight-up that it was my technique that's limiting. Chappy insisted that based on my prescription, I should not have any more problems than a shooter with perfect natural vision. He said that with the equipment I described, I should be good out to the 300 yard line, which is about the point where most shooters with perfect vision starts to encounter trouble with dots of that size.

Still, it wasn't until after a similar discussion with friends about pistol-MRDSs that I really started taking the time to practice these techniques. I'm now at-ease between the 150 and 200, and I'll finally have the chance to stretch out beyond that distance in the coming days, now with the private range that I belong to.

Absolutely, I do agree that certain things become a harder play with less clear aperture, with bigger (or less well-defined/resolved) dots, with glass distortion/discoloration (the first versus second-generation Trijicon MRO would be a perfect apple-to-apple comparison here) - but overall, my belief is that it's much more about technique. :) Given the OP's stated purpose for this weapon, however, my opinion is that these considerations take a back seat to size and mobility.
 
@TEXASforLIFE , I don't disagree with what you're saying. but my experience -as well as what I've been taught- have been different, and that drives my difference of opinion. :)

For me, personally, due to my astigmatism (-1.25/-1.00 OD/OS), I had a hard limit on 4 MOA dots (my personal preference - the setup on my HD AR, it's based on my nearsightedness and the thought that I may not have time to don my corrective eyewear) at about the 160 yard line (target would be a 6" circle). I've always thought that this is my true limiting factor when playing with RDSs (either holographic or reflex, it doesn't matter - what I mean by RDSs is simply anything that's not an etched reticle), however, at Alliance PD's "Basic Carbine" class (I lucked into it being taught by John Chapman - aka "Chappy." Yeah, an 8-hour day with Chappy for just $100. 😁 ) changed my mind.

He's considered by many to be an SME in terms of optics, lights, and night-vision gear, and as a result, he's worked with many of the top optics makes in the industry. What I was able to pick from him truly set me on a new path where it comes to RDS use. I discussed with him my troubles with my 4MOA Aimpoint T1 at a previous classes, when I got out to about the 165 yard distance, and he simply shook his head, and told me straight-up that it was my technique that's limiting. Chappy insisted that based on my prescription, I should not have any more problems than a shooter with perfect natural vision. He said that with the equipment I described, I should be good out to the 300 yard line, which is about the point where most shooters with perfect vision starts to encounter trouble with dots of that size.

Still, it wasn't until after a similar discussion with friends about pistol-MRDSs that I really started taking the time to practice these techniques. I'm now at-ease between the 150 and 200, and I'll finally have the chance to stretch out beyond that distance in the coming days, now with the private range that I belong to.

Absolutely, I do agree that certain things become a harder play with less clear aperture, with bigger (or less well-defined/resolved) dots, with glass distortion/discoloration (the first versus second-generation Trijicon MRO would be a perfect apple-to-apple comparison here) - but overall, my belief is that it's much more about technique. :) Given the OP's stated purpose for this weapon, however, my opinion is that these considerations take a back seat to size and mobility.
Agreed! One does have to work with what they've got (limitations). Each knows what works for them.
 
@TEXASforLIFE , I don't disagree with what you're saying. but my experience -as well as what I've been taught- have been different, and that drives my difference of opinion. :)

For me, personally, due to my astigmatism (-1.25/-1.00 OD/OS), I had a hard limit on 4 MOA dots (my personal preference - the setup on my HD AR, it's based on my nearsightedness and the thought that I may not have time to don my corrective eyewear) at about the 160 yard line (target would be a 6" circle). I've always thought that this is my true limiting factor when playing with RDSs (either holographic or reflex, it doesn't matter - what I mean by RDSs is simply anything that's not an etched reticle), however, at Alliance PD's "Basic Carbine" class (I lucked into it being taught by John Chapman - aka "Chappy." Yeah, an 8-hour day with Chappy for just $100. 😁 ) changed my mind.

He's considered by many to be an SME in terms of optics, lights, and night-vision gear, and as a result, he's worked with many of the top optics makes in the industry. What I was able to pick from him truly set me on a new path where it comes to RDS use. I discussed with him my troubles with my 4MOA Aimpoint T1 at a previous classes, when I got out to about the 165 yard distance, and he simply shook his head, and told me straight-up that it was my technique that's limiting. Chappy insisted that based on my prescription, I should not have any more problems than a shooter with perfect natural vision. He said that with the equipment I described, I should be good out to the 300 yard line, which is about the point where most shooters with perfect vision starts to encounter trouble with dots of that size.

Still, it wasn't until after a similar discussion with friends about pistol-MRDSs that I really started taking the time to practice these techniques. I'm now at-ease between the 150 and 200, and I'll finally have the chance to stretch out beyond that distance in the coming days, now with the private range that I belong to.

Absolutely, I do agree that certain things become a harder play with less clear aperture, with bigger (or less well-defined/resolved) dots, with glass distortion/discoloration (the first versus second-generation Trijicon MRO would be a perfect apple-to-apple comparison here) - but overall, my belief is that it's much more about technique. :) Given the OP's stated purpose for this weapon, however, my opinion is that these considerations take a back seat to size and mobility.
Agreed, the best weapon isnt the tool, its the person behind it, what you train with, are comfortable and confident with makes you 1000 times more lethal/capable than all the Gucci gear made.
 
Well here is what my CA featureless version looks like.

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And this is what my regular AR setup would look like.

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New/last build...Q LLC barrel, Aero Precision Upper, Strike Ind. lower, Holosun Optic, Maxim brace, A few parts added for variety. Shoots subs/supers suppressed, etc. without a problem. The 1:5 twists is great for all bullet weights. I reload/handload so no shortage of ammo.
Last Build AR C40.jpg
 
My first build (last weekend)-

Definitely a vanity build - Black and gold are the colors of a graduate fraternity I'm in. Not planning to drag this through training classes (I've got a couple Saint Edges and another for that.) Really happy with the way this turned out.


AR Pistol. Carbine length gas block system. 11.3" barrel. Anodized Gold handguard 9"; buffer tube; charging handle; and forward assist from Veriforce Tactical (Scottsdale, AZ and online). Aero Precision stripped upper, lower, and BCG. Trigger - AimSurplus SSTAT single stage black and gold. SBA3 pistol brace. Yankee Hill flash hider. UTG sights. Optic to come later.

I had a couple friends/fraternity brothers that consulted/walked me through the build in-person with all the correct tools and bench to make this smooth and efficient.

Thoughts on the process:
1 - Almost everyone should build at least 1 AR (hopefully w/ support and tools)

2- I can see the appeal/addiction of building ARs.

3 - I'm not convinced that picking out all the parts separately (even on sale/closeout) is all that much cheaper than buying a complete rifle. However, buying separately - one can use exactly the parts one wants - which is a total reflection of this build.

4 - The right tools are crucial for a smooth build - would not want to attempt this without all the tools I had available to me.

5 - This is a (financial) rabbit hole one should really think about before going full bore into it. I personally don't think I would build enough to make it worth the investment in all the needed tools.

6 - If doing it all over again - I probably would have gone with a complete upper (on sale?) and swapped the handguard with the gold. Maybe the same with a complete lower (on sale?) and swapping out for the gold parts. I think I could have done this spending less money for similar quality....or, at least the quality good enough for my purposes - but maybe not either. ???????

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1646780855945.png
 
My first build (last weekend)-

Definitely a vanity build - Black and gold are the colors of a graduate fraternity I'm in. Not planning to drag this through training classes (I've got a couple Saint Edges and another for that.) Really happy with the way this turned out.

Looks great! I'm sure it looks even better in-person! (y)

I had a couple friends/fraternity brothers that consulted/walked me through the build in-person with all the correct tools and bench to make this smooth and efficient.

Thoughts on the process:
1 - Almost everyone should build at least 1 AR (hopefully w/ support and tools)

2- I can see the appeal/addiction of building ARs.
and...
4 - The right tools are crucial for a smooth build - would not want to attempt this without all the tools I had available to me.

Yup.

Tools and the know-how are key.

While technically straightforward, I have yet to find a single free resource that provides *all* the tricks. I still firmly believe that it's possible for someone who is dedicated enough to sort it all out and do it all the right way with only free online resources as a guide, I am very cognizant that it isn't the easiest way to go about it.

If you're so inclined, attending a "gunsmithing class" that is specifically focused on the DI AR15 platform can drastically boost your standings on the power-curve. It not only will help you troubleshoot the gun in a post-event, on-the-bench, manner, but will actually also help you run the gun better overall. I find that the deeper understanding into the platform helps me with "in situ," on-the-fly stoppage reduction, too. I feel it's akin to studying physiology first, before going into pathology. Knowing how things work when they're going right helps when things are going wonky.

Meanwhile, having the right tools not only make the work easier, it also insures that it's done correctly, with less of a chance of "hurting" parts and areas that you're both working on and not working on.

3 - I'm not convinced that picking out all the parts separately (even on sale/closeout) is all that much cheaper than buying a complete rifle. However, buying separately - one can use exactly the parts one wants - which is a total reflection of this build.

The way the market is today, I absolutely agree. There were certain points in history where the calculus flipped either one way or the other, of-course, and currently, I definitely believe that you're on-the-mark in your statement.

5 - This is a (financial) rabbit hole one should really think about before going full bore into it. I personally don't think I would build enough to make it worth the investment in all the needed tools.

Understand that there's a "hobbyist level" list of "crucial/nice-to-have" tools...and then there's another level for those who build more frequently....and yet another level for those who really want to get into it (be it for their own edification or for professional needs.

It's definitely a rabbit-hole.

A lot of the basic-level tools may already be in the possession of -or aren't far away from- what a typical "DIY" greasemonkey shad-tree may already have in their garage or workshop. But as the end-user starts to get going, it becomes like a Porsche options-list: those costs really start to add-up.

Again, if you are interested, I'd recommend that you either act quickly and grab the necessary Information off of the SOTAR (School of the American Rifle, headed-up by Chad Albrecht) Facebook Group or support the cause by joining the SOTAR Society (at just under $20 for yearly dues) and downloading the tools list from that location. Albrecht broke the list into a three-tier setup, progressing from hobbyist to professional.

6 - If doing it all over again - I probably would have gone with a complete upper (on sale?) and swapped the handguard with the gold. Maybe the same with a complete lower (on sale?) and swapping out for the gold parts. I think I could have done this spending less money for similar quality....or, at least the quality good enough for my purposes - but maybe not either. ???????

It really depends, right? ;) As your post ended with that question, it's really just that - there's a lot that's left up to fate/chance, with how the market is and any sales/specials that helps with either product costs or even perhaps shipping.

Right before the "armorer's course" I signed up for, I purchased a complete Aero specifically with the intent of taking it there and tearing it apart and putting it back together. At the time because of the combination of the condition of the mid-tier AR-market and a retailer special, one would have been very, very hard-pressed to build from "equivalent" parts and get to my purchase price.

But just months later, parts prices fell as they become more available - and subsequently arguably better-quality full-factory-build guns came to-market that really made for stiff competition with what I'd bought.

A lot of it is very, very conditional. :)
 
My first build (last weekend)-

Definitely a vanity build - Black and gold are the colors of a graduate fraternity I'm in. Not planning to drag this through training classes (I've got a couple Saint Edges and another for that.) Really happy with the way this turned out.


AR Pistol. Carbine length gas block system. 11.3" barrel. Anodized Gold handguard 9"; buffer tube; charging handle; and forward assist from Veriforce Tactical (Scottsdale, AZ and online). Aero Precision stripped upper, lower, and BCG. Trigger - AimSurplus SSTAT single stage black and gold. SBA3 pistol brace. Yankee Hill flash hider. UTG sights. Optic to come later.

I had a couple friends/fraternity brothers that consulted/walked me through the build in-person with all the correct tools and bench to make this smooth and efficient.

Thoughts on the process:
1 - Almost everyone should build at least 1 AR (hopefully w/ support and tools)

2- I can see the appeal/addiction of building ARs.

3 - I'm not convinced that picking out all the parts separately (even on sale/closeout) is all that much cheaper than buying a complete rifle. However, buying separately - one can use exactly the parts one wants - which is a total reflection of this build.

4 - The right tools are crucial for a smooth build - would not want to attempt this without all the tools I had available to me.

5 - This is a (financial) rabbit hole one should really think about before going full bore into it. I personally don't think I would build enough to make it worth the investment in all the needed tools.

6 - If doing it all over again - I probably would have gone with a complete upper (on sale?) and swapped the handguard with the gold. Maybe the same with a complete lower (on sale?) and swapping out for the gold parts. I think I could have done this spending less money for similar quality....or, at least the quality good enough for my purposes - but maybe not either. ???????

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Congrats !
Welcome to the Rabbit hole ….👍👍

Don’t follow the light and the end of the hole … turn around now … its @BET7 at the end enticing you to buy a cargo ships worth like him … !!!!

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I've built 3. With less than $100 worth of tools purchased. And most of those were things I could have actually done it without. Roll pin starter, specialized punches, Wheeler mag vice, etc.

Yeah, they aren't DD or whatever. I have put a hell of a lot of rounds through them with no problems though.
 
^ For the mechanically inclined, that's definitely possible. When I first started, I actually didn't even use a vise for the lower - I freehanded everything.

That lower is still chugging along today.

I also didn't pay much attention to the quality of parts: I never vetted their origin/manufacturers. I also never checked critical dimensions.

The gun runs just fine, but later on, after I knew better, I went back and re-did it.

It's definitely not that it can't be done without specialized tools: it's just that there definitely is a proper way. :)
 
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