reloading questions/advice if you would please?

[Old_Me]

UPDATE

i got an email Friday, that my Colt 45 LC cowboy bullets were shipped.

no tracking numbers however

came in the mail minutes ago via USPS priority mail.

220 gr, flat round nose.

now i am stoked, that i have all the bullets of the calibers that i shoot, and brass, and primers, and dies and everything is set up, just some "dialing in" on powder drops and OAL.....

 

[youngolddude]

I love the .45 Colt cartridge. It can be a beast or a pussycat depending on how you load it. I usually use Scofield brass for handguns and .45 Colt for my rifles.

 

[Old_Me]

I love the .45 Colt cartridge. It can be a beast or a pussycat depending on how you load it. I usually use Scofield brass for handguns and .45 Colt for my rifles.

as my "Usual M.O.", i am loading at the starting charges for all my reloads.

little by little, i will "inch up" to just near max grains.

for the 45 LC brass, i have Remington and Fiocchi brass. more Remington right now.

i have yet to "see" and feel how the new Fiocchi Cowboy ammo i bought shoots.

my Ruger Vaquero, that shoots the 45 Colt LC, gets to the range, once in like 5 months, so maybe 50 rounds at a time of reloads will hold me.

 

[Jon T]

Unique powder is pretty much a "one size fits all" for handguns.
Get a dial caliper as opposed to a digital. Dial calipers don't rely on a battery so it'll never die. Digital isn't any more accurate than a dial. You really can't measure to 4 places with ANY caliper. Calipers are only close. Micrometers are as close to "spot on" as you're going to get, short of using CMM for measuring. I retired 3 years ago after 40 years as a journeyman machinist/tool maker. I never owned any digital calipers or mics and never felt "undergunned" because of it. Just don't "cheap out" on what ever you get. Get a name brand such as Starrett, Brown and Sharp, or Mitutoyo.
I've been reloading for 45 years +/-. I use an RCBS Rock Chucker press and my dies are a mix of RCBS and Lee. Never had a problem with any of them.
Just remember to have fun, and take your time. Reloading isn't a speed-timed event. Reloading is a hobby and should be treated as such. To me, reloading is the best therapy next to actually shooting.

 

[Old_Me]

Unique powder is pretty much a "one size fits all" for handguns.
Get a dial caliper as opposed to a digital. Dial calipers don't rely on a battery so it'll never die. Digital isn't any more accurate than a dial. You really can't measure to 4 places with ANY caliper. Calipers are only close. Micrometers are as close to "spot on" as you're going to get, short of using CMM for measuring. I retired 3 years ago after 40 years as a journeyman machinist/tool maker. I never owned any digital calipers or mics and never felt "undergunned" because of it. Just don't "cheap out" on what ever you get. Get a name brand such as Starrett, Brown and Sharp, or Mitutoyo.
I've been reloading for 45 years +/-. I use an RCBS Rock Chucker press and my dies are a mix of RCBS and Lee. Never had a problem with any of them.
Just remember to have fun, and take your time. Reloading isn't a speed-timed event. Reloading is a hobby and should be treated as such. To me, reloading is the best therapy next to actually shooting.

yes, Unique was out of stock at every place online or here locally when i was trying to buy it.

however my mom/pop LGS said he uses TiteGroup for his commercial loads and personal loads.

so thankfully, i was able to secure an 8 lbs jug of TiteGroup.

as for measuring tools, back in my wrench turning days, i did have a Central micrometer for measuring rotor runout and ball joint play. but frankly, i always found it hard to read that.

now you have 40 years of experience, so to you it's a "piece of cake" to read one.

well, not for me, and i wish NOT to debate anyone on this issue, so for ME, a digital caliper works best, as a digital scale.

just like when i got into trucking later and spent nearly 40 years doing that......i could turn around on a dime, stop on a dime and back up in a serpentine, but then again...nearly 40 years of doing so..........it's called...........experience........

no debates necessary on the highly experienced and novice.

 

[Old_Me]

hey i got one for you reloaders....

the past few days, due to the weather and just plain going nuts here, i been reloading.

mostly now 9mm, and i am about to run out of 9mm LRN, so maybe another 150 -200 rounds to go.....but....

i am running into military ammo brass,

WMA 21

these are from the sweepings of the public range, so until i clean/polish the casings, and then pick one out of the can, i have no idea what i swept up. then i toss them into my "take to the scrap yard bucket"

do any of you guys take any extra time to deal with the military brass, or toss them yourselves..???

at the mom/pop gun store, the owner is not reloading any ammo right now, but has like 50,000 SPP's in stock to start, but near the winter, in the meantime too, this means he's not making bullets (of any caliber) either.

so off to Missouri Bullet for 2,000 LRN, coming next week.

his loss in revenue, not mine.

and so it goes.

 

[Shattowalker]

ok, so i got that new credit card the other day, but sleep schedules have been off, so to order what i want will actually be for another day.

i have "planned" on getting the Lee Pro 4000 from one of the online places i do business with.

my first choice of ammo to reload will be .45 ACP, as this is my favorite to shoot.

i "may" buy other dies and plates for (maybe) 38 special, 357, 9mm, and maybe 44 special (even though i haven't any 44 caliber gun, and may never own a 44 caliber gun. my "thoughts" are geared up, for when i go to sell the equipment, i can offer more to the buyer and not limit myself to only the .45 ACP, if you get what i mean?

ok, so i got a hold of a possible purchase of used tumbler and digital scale (Frankford Arsenal) from a RSO.

then i still need a bullet puller, case gauges (maybe one block, rather than separate ones) and a few other odds and ends, like a digital caliper for OAL measurements.

i already have the latest Lyman reloading book. i know that the gun powder websites have specs, as well as another book (or 2) will be in my future.

now, regarding just the gun powder, i'd like "smoke free"? and if so, what do YOU reloaders use for good, dependable, gunpowder for a new guy like me, that right now, just wants, near factory specs. at my age, i am not into competitions, or hot loads, PLUS it is NOT smart to go off the specs for anything BUT factory specs.

as far as primers, i know i'll need (if i can find them) large pistol and small pistol primers. name brand not withstanding, price may dictate what i can buy.

as far as bullets, i have heard of Berry's, and a few others that i have in my search favorite, but what is the general consensus of what YOU buy?

right now, we all know cost is a factor, i clean my guns regularly, so leading may not be an issue, if i do not go FMJ bullets.

also, do ANY of you write down your "recipes" for your reloads, as well as day, date, performance, maybe lot number of the powder, etc, etc?

i will have other questions in the near future, thanks in advance to all that read and help, advise, recommend..!!

Well I have to say it's been nice and I have enjoyed my short time here but I believe it is time for me to return to the shadows. I try never to step on toes or tick folks off but iys getting way to complicated for my so I will leave with a short message and say if someone wishes to drop a line thats fine. some 65yrs ago when I started reloading which I liked a lot there was a old gunsmith who said one word to me KISS and after about 10yrs of reloading I got it. Todays world is at a crossroads and as I search for that silent place for me to dwell I have my hand loader with 3 sets of dies, some bullets powder and primers with some brass. I only shoot 200 grain 45cal which is the original load for a 45lc I like 355gra cast and 38/357 same dies I dont like 9mm much as I have seen to many failures but I do have one. When the **** hits the fan you wont be able to take a whole bunch of suff you cant set up. I have a lot of 22s and a rifle which that caliber has taken more north American game than any other caliber just ask F&G about poachers and you can carry a bunch in the bush and make it very silent. I hope that I have made my way home B4 things get to much worse. In many states criminals have more rights then tho honest person in many states because penalties don't seem to fit the crime anymore and good people pay tu house and keep bad guys healty while vets and seniors just struggle day today. I still stay in touch with the few LEOs I know and family. I will go dark in about 2 weeks and again thanks to all for the space that you allowed me to be in but budget and medical that we pay for from our pocket and the cost of houseing which may be out of reach in the place we live so I leave saying keep your nose to the wind , stay below the ridge line and stay cluse to family. MY last post and 2 weeks weeks will only have mail because of family and few friends.

 

[Old_Me]

Well I have to say it's been nice and I have enjoyed my short time here but I believe it is time for me to return to the shadows. I try never to step on toes or tick folks off but iys getting way to complicated for my so I will leave with a short message and say if someone wishes to drop a line thats fine. some 65yrs ago when I started reloading which I liked a lot there was a old gunsmith who said one word to me KISS and after about 10yrs of reloading I got it. Todays world is at a crossroads and as I search for that silent place for me to dwell I have my hand loader with 3 sets of dies, some bullets powder and primers with some brass. I only shoot 200 grain 45cal which is the original load for a 45lc I like 355gra cast and 38/357 same dies I dont like 9mm much as I have seen to many failures but I do have one. When the **** hits the fan you wont be able to take a whole bunch of suff you cant set up. I have a lot of 22s and a rifle which that caliber has taken more north American game than any other caliber just ask F&G about poachers and you can carry a bunch in the bush and make it very silent. I hope that I have made my way home B4 things get to much worse. In many states criminals have more rights then tho honest person in many states because penalties don't seem to fit the crime anymore and good people pay tu house and keep bad guys healty while vets and seniors just struggle day today. I still stay in touch with the few LEOs I know and family. I will go dark in about 2 weeks and again thanks to all for the space that you allowed me to be in but budget and medical that we pay for from our pocket and the cost of houseing which may be out of reach in the place we live so I leave saying keep your nose to the wind , stay below the ridge line and stay cluse to family. MY last post and 2 weeks weeks will only have mail because of family and few friends.

frankly, if you wanted to say "good-bye", why the hell did you hijack MY thread, MY posting about what do you do with military brass..??

i think it ignorant of you to have hijacked and not even give an opinion on MY posting.

you could have made your own thread.

your babbling hijacking makes no sense here.....

 

[Old_Me]

does anyone here happen to have this RCBS tool..??

Bench Mounted Primer Pocket Swager Tool

Primer Pocket Swager Tool by RCBS RELOADING PRODUCTSThis dedicated bench mounted Primer Pocket Swager Tool makes removal of primer pocket staking/crimp a simple task. Staked/crimped primer pockets can be found in more than just military ammunition. Due to the popularity of AR platform...

www.midsouthshooterssupply.com

and if so, will it/can it do 9mm, 45 ACP brass as well...?

i have already sent RCBS an email, but giving the holiday next week, they may not get back to me till later, due to volume of emails they get.

thanks in advance

 

[shanneba]

I don't have the RCBS tool but it does come with both small and large primer size swagers.
I suspect the large size swager is sized for rifle primers, 30'06 / 308 cases.

Lee mentions 45 ACP in their primer pocket swager description-
https://leeprecision.com/primer-pocket-swager/

There is a small difference in size for Large Pistol and large rifle primers.
Per SAAMI specs It is about 0.0005 to 0.001 larger diameter for large rifle primers, and about 0.008-0.009 deeper for large rifle primers. (the depth may not be an issue since the swage is at the back of the primer pocket)

 

[Old_Me]

I don't have the RCBS tool but it does come with both small and large primer size swagers.
I suspect the large size swager is sized for rifle primers, 30'06 / 308 cases.

Lee mentions 45 ACP in their primer pocket swager description-
https://leeprecision.com/primer-pocket-swager/

There is a small difference in size for Large Pistol and large rifle primers.
Per SAAMI specs It is about 0.0005 to 0.001 larger diameter for large rifle primers, and about 0.008-0.009 deeper for large rifle primers. (the depth may not be an issue since the swage is at the back of the primer pocket)

thanks..

i did some more "research" and found this from Lee

Lee Precision, Inc.. Chamfer Tool

Lee Chamfer tool chamfers and deburs inside and outside of case necks. Also used to remove the crimp from primer pockets

leeprecision.com

i watched a video (from Lee) on how to use it, so for the price, i'll give it a try.

as for either the Dillon or RCBS swage tool, it would "appear" the rods are for the neck of rifle cartridges, and pistol cartridge's would "float" and not line up.

i have quite a few 9mm military brass, that i have so far "lost" like mabe now 8 primers due t the crimp.

frankly, i did not know this, and thought maybe the primer cup just was not lined up properly for inserting of a new primer.

i hate to throw away good brass if i don't really have to, you know what i mean..??

so the Lee tool is cheap to at least give it a try

 

[carl]

thanks. regarding semi wad cutters.

i have at least 2 guns that will not shoot them.

i had to return the boxes i had bought, of reloads, and the guy at the store simply exchanged them for round nose.

so i'll be staying away from swc's.



i did try looking at Dillon, (both the Square Deal B, and a 550c), but they have back orders on dies. last time i checked, like a 14 week back order, THEN you are on the list, as in first come, first served, from what i read on thier site.

screw that. the Lee set up, it is all there.

i do have "some" of those aforementioned bullet companies in my search favorites list.

saving money.?

no, from what i have been reading from others across a few other sites, there really isn't any actual savings.

you too have entered the zone of, "i don't trim hand gun cases"...looks like that'll be a general

 

[Old_Me]

ok, so my Lee swag tool arrived the other day. i went to Lowes to try and find a wooden dowel, to use as a handle. no luck, either too large or too small.

so i get to the plumbing dept, and there i find these 1/2" plastic "T"s......98¢ each, so i get 2.

i wrapped some electrical tape around the piece, and it's a tight fitting hand tool.

i have now about 62 military 9mm casings to "swag" the crimp, i already had success doing 2, and installing a new primer.

however, i loaded up my Lee press, using the tubes for the shell casings, and a casing got jammed in the process and broke the decapping pin....

lucky for me, before i even got into reloading, i had bought from "Squirrel DAddy" a hardened pin.....

i have a Frankford Arsenal hand held decapper, that as going to be a spare for that.

ok, so now, as i decapped all the military brass (to be swag later), i noticed that the decapping pin made the flash hole a "bit larger"......i just need to readjust the pin depth, which i should have done first, i know that now.

so...with the flash hole being a "bit larger" will this affect the shootability of the military brass..??

after i make adjustments, maybe Sunday, it's way too hot to be in the basement anymore today, i will "run" several ordinary 9mm brass to compare the flash holes.

it ain't like i'm gonna lode a lot of brass, i have like 3,000 case now, but i want to get things right as you'd be suspecting.

thanks in advance, to all that chime in.

oh yeah, i also went to the squirrel daddy website, and bought a set of 3 hardened decapping pins.....

 

[jumpinjoe]

Old_Me, that's actually a "LEE" 'Chamfer and Deburring' tool. It's not the tool you need/want to remove the crimp from the primer pocket of military brass. It's used to take the sharp, ragged edge off both the inside and outside edge of a recently trimmed brass case mouth. The trimming leaves a tiny ragged edge around the case mouth that if not removed will at some point accumulate to the point it can cause scarring of the outside of the case by building up inside the sizing die, and can sometimes affect the amount of bullet pull on the projectile if left on the inside. Used on the inside, whether the case was trimmed or not, it will make setting the bullet into the case mouth a little easier by causing a small chamfer on the inside and will eliminate any potential bullet scarring.

To use it you place the pointed end inside the case mouth and simply give it a complete turn but without a lot of pressure. To smooth the outside of the case mouth, you have to use the inside of the tool and use the same process. Unfortunately the way you've added the 'handle' you can't access the 'inside' of the tool.

What you actually want/need to remove the crimp from a military case primer pocket is called a 'Primer pocket reamer'. Most loading equipment/tool mfr's will have one. Some mfr's may even somehow use the same tool for both jobs, although I've never seen it. But "Lee" isn't one of them. Check into it a little further my friend.

NOTE: My guess is you had to push the 'chamfer' tool so deep into the primer pocket to cut the crimp, that the tip of the tool is what caused the oversized flash hole in the case. Regards, jj.

Ooops, I just re-read your post and see that you said it was the decapping pin that made the flash hole oversized. I was under the impression it was the 'chamfer' tool that caused it. Sorry.

 

[Old_Me]

Old_Me, that's actually a "LEE" 'Chamfer and Deburring' tool. It's not the tool you need/want to remove the crimp from the primer pocket of military brass. It's used to take the sharp, ragged edge off both the inside and outside edge of a recently trimmed brass case mouth. The trimming leaves a tiny ragged edge around the case mouth that if not removed will at some point accumulate to the point it can cause scarring of the outside of the case by building up inside the sizing die, and can sometimes affect the amount of bullet pull on the projectile if left on the inside. Used on the inside, whether the case was trimmed or not, it will make setting the bullet into the case mouth a little easier by causing a small chamfer on the inside and will eliminate any potential bullet scarring.

To use it you place the pointed end inside the case mouth and simply give it a complete turn but without a lot of pressure. To smooth the outside of the case mouth, you have to use the inside of the tool and use the same process. Unfortunately the way you've added the 'handle' you can't access the 'inside' of the tool.

What you actually want/need to remove the crimp from a military case primer pocket is called a 'Primer pocket reamer'. Most loading equipment/tool mfr's will have one. Some mfr's may even somehow use the same tool for both jobs, although I've never seen it. But "Lee" isn't one of them. Check into it a little further my friend.

NOTE: My guess is you had to push the 'chamfer' tool so deep into the primer pocket to cut the crimp, that the tip of the tool is what caused the oversized flash hole in the case. Regards, jj.

Ooops, I just re-read your post and see that you said it was the decapping pin that made the flash hole oversized. I was under the impression it was the 'chamfer' tool that caused it. Sorry.

actually, i just went to Midway, and ordered up a Lee Breech press, bench mount, and the Lee swag kit.

with discounts and free shipping..??

under $120...

this way, i'll have a better swag set up.

i spent "peanuts" on that chamfer tool which by the way, when i did my research, many have said they use that tool.

i hate to waste the usable brass for me, like 9mm and 45 ACP, and .38 special, so to out lay a few dollars for this "new" set up is worth it.....and it only adds to the resale of my reloading room, in the future. as well as i gain experience in yet another step of reloading.

all other brass, i do not need, like rifle, 380, etc,etc, gets tossed into my salvage yard bucket.

if i "clear" about $200 each trip..??

then i consider my investments to some equipment to be "free"

 

[jumpinjoe]

actually, i just went to Midway, and ordered up a Lee Breech press, bench mount, and the Lee swag kit.

with discounts and free shipping..??

under $120...

this way, i'll have a better swag set up.

i spent "peanuts" on that chamfer tool which by the way, when i did my research, many have said they use that tool.

i hate to waste the usable brass for me, like 9mm and 45 ACP, and .38 special, so to out lay a few dollars for this "new" set up is worth it.....and it only adds to the resale of my reloading room, in the future. as well as i gain experience in yet another step of reloading.

all other brass, i do not need, like rifle, 380, etc,etc, gets tossed into my salvage yard bucket.

if i "clear" about $200 each trip..??

then i consider my investments to some equipment to be "free"

Glad to hear this. You'll be set up correctly now. And I wholeheartedly agree on your process of using all brass you can, then selling what you can't use. Keep on keepin' on! jj

 

[Old_Me]

LEE, YOU S.O.B...............!!!!!!!!

so, as i mentioned in #553, i had broken my decapping pin.

and that i had the forethought of buying a replacement, long before i even got my presses.

well just a few minutes ago, i was checking "how to properly adjust a decapping pin"

funny how the Lee directions say to make the pins top level with the nut on top....

and yet, several videos say to have the pin stick no more than 3/16th's from the bottom of the die.

doing it "Lee's way", that pin sticks out nearly 1/2 an inch.

the Squirrel daddy decapping pin is hardened and MUCH longer than a Lee

so, i went and readjust the Dillons pin.......piece of cake

now for the Lee...

i put the pin into the die, make an adjustment, then had to loosen the lock nut, and "GOOD-BYE PIN".......!!!

the dang pin fell straight thru the primer hole on the press and right into the ram...!!!!!

i mean like NO noises to let me know where it went....

i'm like "was Penn & Teller here".....????

"where da fook did my pin go"...???

so, off comes the powder set up, unscrew the hold down plate,, turn press upside down, and viola` out comes the pin from the shaft, as well as a new primer..!!

replace everything, get ready to readjust the pin......BUT WAIT......!!

this time i put a shell casing to cover that primer drop hole.......!!!

readjusted the decapping pin, and the crimping die (as it was too close to the shell plate)

tired several decappings, and all was good.

that BS would have never happened with the Dillon.....as the decapping pin would have fallen onto the shell plate.

S.O.B'ing LEE...DAM YOU TO HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL...........!!!!!!!!!!

 

[youngolddude]

I have had two different lengths of Lee decapping pins. One was set flush with the top nut and the other was way above that. I marked the long one with magic market in case in needed to be realigned. Every now and then, I'll crush a rock inside the case (desert environment) that will move the pin up out of the collet. Most times, I can readjust and move on. Sometimes it will snap the tip. I loosen the nut on the collet and tap it down with the wrench and retighten. I vaguely recall one slipping all the way through and used a magnet to retrieve.

 

[Old_Me]

I have had two different lengths of Lee decapping pins. One was set flush with the top nut and the other was way above that. I marked the long one with magic market in case in needed to be realigned. Every now and then, I'll crush a rock inside the case (desert environment) that will move the pin up out of the collet. Most times, I can readjust and move on. Sometimes it will snap the tip. I loosen the nut on the collet and tap it down with the wrench and retighten. I vaguely recall one slipping all the way through and used a magnet to retrieve.

well, i do have a magnet, but it was not powerful enough to bring up the pin.

what i did do was to adjust the length as per several videos and i found too that the Lee pin is very "close" to 3/16th's inch in diameter. (even the "Squirrel Daddy pin)

so that'll be another "tool" that i can use now, instead of a drill bit.

just another "learning experience"in reloading.

 

[carl]

LEE, YOU S.O.B...............!!!!!!!!

so, as i mentioned in #553, i had broken my decapping pin.

and that i had the forethought of buying a replacement, long before i even got my presses.

well just a few minutes ago, i was checking "how to properly adjust a decapping pin"

funny how the Lee directions say to make the pins top level with the nut on top....

and yet, several videos say to have the pin stick no more than 3/16th's from the bottom of the die.

doing it "Lee's way", that pin sticks out nearly 1/2 an inch.

the Squirrel daddy decapping pin is hardened and MUCH longer than a Lee

so, i went and readjust the Dillons pin.......piece of cake

now for the Lee...

i put the pin into the die, make an adjustment, then had to loosen the lock nut, and "GOOD-BYE PIN".......!!!

the dang pin fell straight thru the primer hole on the press and right into the ram...!!!!!

i mean like NO noises to let me know where it went....

i'm like "was Penn & Teller here".....????

"where da fook did my pin go"...???

so, off comes the powder set up, unscrew the hold down plate,, turn press upside down, and viola` out comes the pin from the shaft, as well as a new primer..!!

replace everything, get ready to readjust the pin......BUT WAIT......!!

this time i put a shell casing to cover that primer drop hole.......!!!

readjusted the decapping pin, and the crimping die (as it was too close to the shell plate)

tired several decappings, and all was good.

that BS would have never happened with the Dillon.....as the decapping pin would have fallen onto the shell plate.

S.O.B'ing LEE...DAM YOU TO HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL...........!!!!!!!!!!

I have been using a dillion since 1987 and its been bulletproof.
I decided to give the new 2023 "improved" lee pro1000 a try. I can not get this machine to load more than 20 rounds without it dropping a primer causing me to stop everything and retrieve the primer because it get stuck under the press and you can't put the ram all the way down or flip the primer and put it in backwards. It now sits in the corner and will probably never be used again.