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reloading questions/advice if you would please?

Old_Me said:
yeah, all of the remaining and past reloaded ammo i have/had was lead bullets. but as i clean after every range trip, i look into the barrel, and cannot see much in the way of a problem.

not that it's not building up to my naked eye, but seemingly clean.
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If your patches come out clean it's clean. It takes easily twice as many though regardless of how often you clean. Which like you, I clean them after I shoot them, period.
 
Old_Me said:
my question though, is why are there different sized .45 ACP bullets?

would the 451 be the most popular?

if i bought the 452, 453, etc, do i have to expand the mouth of the brass more?

this is where i am not understanding, and i haven't found (or maybe i missed it) in the reloading manual that i have.
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The SAAMI specs for 45 ACP show lead bullets at max 0.4530, Jacketed at max 0.4520.
Both with a -0.0030 min
With a groove diameter specification of 0.0450, most jacketed bullets will be 0.451 and lead 0.0452

You can view the SAAMI specs for Centerfire pistol here:

Pressure and Velocity of Centerfire Pistol and Revolver Ammunition
For the geekish types / engineers :)
 
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shanneba said:
The SAAMI specs for 45 ACP show lead bullets at max 0.4530, Jacketed at max 0.4520.
Both with a -0.0030 min
With a groove diameter specification of 0.0450, most jacketed bullets will be 0.451 and lead 0.0452

You can view the SAAMI specs for Centerfire pistol here:

Pressure and Velocity of Centerfire Pistol and Revolver Ammunition
For the geekish types / engineers :)
Click to expand...
thanks

i was in the basement, doing some brass processing, in the cleaner

while that was goin on, i put the battery in the new slide caliper, and took inside diameter measurements of a several already cleaned and resized brass (.45's).

the measurements varied from .432 to .440....but to be honest, i went about half way into each casing, rather than at the mouth?

then for practice purposes only, i measured the OAL of reloaded ammo i had in stock, and new S&B ammo

the reloaded ammo OAL varied from 1.264 to 1.269

the factory new ammo (S&B)

OAL varied from 1.266 to 1.271
 
.452 bullets for lead or jacketed. You only want to bell the mouth enough to start the bullet, too much will work harden the case mouths. I know some folks decap and hand prime, but I don't on my progressive presses. When I have unprimed brass and polished, I did have some media trapped in the flash hole. Some have gone to wet tumbling, with or without stainless pins. They do shine up nicely, but they also rinse and dry which seems like extra work. I use walnut media from pet stores or Harbor Freight to use with dry tumbling. I add a dab of NuFinish car polish to the media when I tumble and they get clean enough in an hour or so. I then put in a rotary cage to remove the dry media and return to tumbler. If you have any factory loads you want to replicate, find an ogive (nose profile) that is similar and load to that length. The Dillon you have should have a powder filler die which activates the powder dispenser and bells the case mouth.
 
youngolddude said:
.452 bullets for lead or jacketed. You only want to bell the mouth enough to start the bullet, too much will work harden the case mouths. I know some folks decap and hand prime, but I don't on my progressive presses. When I have unprimed brass and polished, I did have some media trapped in the flash hole. Some have gone to wet tumbling, with or without stainless pins. They do shine up nicely, but they also rinse and dry which seems like extra work. I use walnut media from pet stores or Harbor Freight to use with dry tumbling. I add a dab of NuFinish car polish to the media when I tumble and they get clean enough in an hour or so. I then put in a rotary cage to remove the dry media and return to tumbler. If you have any factory loads you want to replicate, find an ogive (nose profile) that is similar and load to that length. The Dillon you have should have a powder filler die which activates the powder dispenser and bells the case mouth.
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then i may have to adjust the decapper/sizing die. i'll check some videos on that.
 
UPDATE: March 24, 2022

my Inline Fabrication 4" bench mount came in the mail today, actually arrived a day earlier...!!

and from the Post Office....earlier..?????

well any way, i just got myself cleaned up. there was an issue of 2 with fitment to the 550c, the pics will explain them.

first, they give you a really neat "sticker" which i promptly attached to my photo back board, and it was lucky for me, that there was a good spot for it.

1648140329327.png


here it is, out of the box

1648140366713.png


here it is, part way set up, and the first "issue"
see those 2 studs sticking up? well you're supposed to install them first, then mount the press.....however, the hole pattern was slightly off, so i had to very carefully, with a round file, make the left corner hole in the Dillon a tiny bit larger to just get it to mount.

1648140527775.png


the next issue, was on me. i had to drill holes in the bench, but even though i carefully placed the mount, the ram handle would touch the bench, so i had to re-drill 2 holes, and bring the press forward a bit more

1648140702404.png


for a Dillon press, the mount has "tabs" on each side. this one on the left to the bullet holder tray, which i might not even get one.

1648140783670.png


and as you can see, there is also a tab on the right, for the newly finished cartridges tray.

1648140870856.png


took me about an hour to assemble, mount the Dillon, clean up.

and in the end, for my particular bench, which was home made, this was the best way to securely mount the Dillon.

as i had also bought the mounting plate for the Lee as well, and that shows in previous pics.

now, a few more things to do, and i'll be "practicing" on these presses for a while, before i crank out real ammo.
 
well, i tried to set up some of the dies, on the Dillon. i had to re-do the decapping die, cuz almost all the time, the decapper needle? kept popping up the top.

the Lee instructions say that "some torqueing" of the locking ring for that needle, may be needed.....

holy crap, did it ever!

so i ran a few empties thru it, and they all decapped and i am hopping, resized as well.

then i moved onto the powder drop, but i had to use the Dillon's die for that, i think i got it "close" to doing a proper powder drop, that'll be verified at a later time. but, it did not "bell mouth" the casing like i had seen in the video?

then i moved onto the bullet seating die.....

well, i measured an S&B 9mm, FMJ...1.157 is what i got.

only a few attempts at dummy rounds, i was getting close, after the first one, i sent deep into the casing.

a few more, i got real close, like 1.170, then i adjusted the die a "tiny bit" and i mean like a hair, and then the reading was like 1.140...!!

like holy crap, that die is sensitive to say the least.

i have one more die to install, the crimping die.

but i stopped for today.

i know i have fine tunings to do, but today was a start.

one thing that i had to do was put in an order to Dillon for the 9MM locator buttons for the 9MM shell plate. they were not in the box, no where to be found.

the 45 ACP buttons are in the shell casing plate box, with the powder drop.

i also ordered up buttons for the 38/357, and 10/40 S&W plates as well


so now, more waiting to do. Dillon just sent me an email as i was typing this, my order shipped.

i ain't gonna see the guy until monday, to ask him about the buttons, but i need those other ones anyways.

i cannot do much with the Lee, i have no bullets, nor large primers, but that was all set up by Lee (or maybe Midway)

final adjustments can be made as time and components allow.
 
well this day got better.

i went to the range, and the RSO i bought the Dillon from said he was going thru his basement, and found a new, unopened brick of CCI small primers, and if i wanted them.

he told me the price, i pick them up in the AM

$80.00

i spoke with the guy at the store where i buy my ammo, he said that one of his customers bought a brick for $125.00 online.

this may be possible for me to maybe actually start making dummy rounds this weekend, to dial in everything, and producing 9mm sooner than i thought, maybe the following weekend.
 
You need to lower your powder dispenser until you get the proper flare. You only want to do this enough to start the bullet. Too little may crumple the case mouth or shave the bullet. $80 is fair for SPP, I've spent around $112 including shipping and hazmat fees.
 
youngolddude said:
You need to lower your powder dispenser until you get the proper flare. You only want to do this enough to start the bullet. Too little may crumple the case mouth or shave the bullet. $80 is fair for SPP, I've spent around $112 including shipping and hazmat fees.
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yes, i still have to adjust that powder dump. there isn't any flare at all.

question...

does the Lee have a flaring to the cases, like the Dillon....?

i still haven't dialed in anything with that press.
 
Old_Me, with due respect let me suggest you read and follow the instructions for all 4 Lee dies. I think you'll find they're very easy to understand, very clear, and practical. I'm sure the Dillon dies are much the same but I can't personally speak to them as I've never used a Dillon. The Lee's will take you through each step of the way and you'll end up with a product you're proud of. Most often it only takes 'one time through' to accurately set up and adjust all four dies if going by the instructions provided.

One of the things Lee emphasizes is just how to set/adjust the amount of flare you want (and why) on the case mouth down to the thousandths of an inch using the 'powder through expander' die. And along the way will explain why each step is important.

I know there are many videos out there you can watch, but some of those guys/videos are just as confused as you are. Those are not the ones to learn from. Just be careful. You're launching into a brand new and exciting hobby, but you'll eventually need all your fingers and most of your eyes to really enjoy it. ;):):):)
 
jumpinjoe said:
Old_Me, with due respect let me suggest you read and follow the instructions for all 4 Lee dies. I think you'll find they're very easy to understand, very clear, and practical. I'm sure the Dillon dies are much the same but I can't personally speak to them as I've never used a Dillon. The Lee's will take you through each step of the way and you'll end up with a product you're proud of. Most often it only takes 'one time through' to accurately set up and adjust all four dies if going by the instructions provided.

One of the things Lee emphasizes is just how to set/adjust the amount of flare you want (and why) on the case mouth down to the thousandths of an inch using the 'powder through expander' die. And along the way will explain why each step is important.

I know there are many videos out there you can watch, but some of those guys/videos are just as confused as you are. Those are not the ones to learn from. Just be careful. You're launching into a brand new and exciting hobby, but you'll eventually need all your fingers and most of your eyes to really enjoy it. ;):):):)
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yeah, the only DIllon die i am using is for the powder dump. otherwise, all the other dies for the Dillon are Lee......right now, i am on "reading overload", reading online help from Dillon and Lee, and reloading sites specific to those brands, and at this site.

trying to absorb this "information overload", and comprehending things. asking questions sometimes makes things easier for me.

i was told by the ARSO that sold me his Dillon, to go and run several dummy rounds to get really familiar, and build up co-ordination and just go slow, no need to rush.

and i am slow at doing work things, so that's not a problem

thanks
 
Old_Me said:
yeah, the only DIllon die i am using is for the powder dump. otherwise, all the other dies for the Dillon are Lee......right now, i am on "reading overload", reading online help from Dillon and Lee, and reloading sites specific to those brands, and at this site.

trying to absorb this "information overload", and comprehending things. asking questions sometimes makes things easier for me.

i was told by the ARSO that sold me his Dillon, to go and run several dummy rounds to get really familiar, and build up co-ordination and just go slow, no need to rush.

and i am slow at doing work things, so that's not a problem

thanks
Click to expand...
If you're going too use the dillon powder measure you might want the low powder alert. The alert inserts where the powder goes and makes an audible alarm/tone. When I was loading 44mag I was able to load 1k an hour. Fast forward 35 years I inquired about bullet and case feeders. The rep I talked to said "If you can load that fast no need for you too buy 1" I had a good system, but that was decades ago. Bullets and brass are the easy 1 to keep up with. Powder and primers can get forgotten about, well at least for me. I like the mount you have better than the dillon mount! Great choice!
 
Another note: Get some anti-static spray and spray the inside and out of the powder measure. Don't use fabric sheets! The plastic hopper attracts the powder. Spray 1 day then use the next. I sprayed the hopper 3 years ago and still static free. Static Guard is what I used, but other brands might work as well.
 
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