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Ronin EMP 3: Does the trigger get better?

Having become proficient with an Equalizer for EDC, I shot a full size Kimber Stainless II and was instantly better. I wanted to move to an officer 1911 and chose the Ronin EMP 3. I know it's not going to shoot like a full size but after the first 100 rounds, I expected better. I am finding the trigger to be a problem in that it takes much more effort to fire.
1) Does it get better with a break in?
2) It's a series 70 trigger correct?
Springfield 1911 Ronin EMP 3 WEB.jpeg
 
What is a match grade trigger? I thought it was just marketing schtick?
What is a match grade gun?


Match grade frequently refers to quality firearm parts and ammunition that are suitable for a competitive match. Sometimes it also refers to other devices and parts that are made with high precision in mind.
 
Having become proficient with an Equalizer for EDC, I shot a full size Kimber Stainless II and was instantly better. I wanted to move to an officer 1911 and chose the Ronin EMP 3. I know it's not going to shoot like a full size but after the first 100 rounds, I expected better. I am finding the trigger to be a problem in that it takes much more effort to fire.
1) Does it get better with a break in?
2) It's a series 70 trigger correct?
View attachment 62117
Shoot it more, it will get somewhat smoother and better as time goes, and yes, series 70, but that only refers to a firing pin block which Springfield doesn’t use, they use a titanium firing pin and heavier firing pin spring which doesn’t have any effect on the trigger like a series 80 firing pin lock does.
 
My EMP (pre Ronin) has a sweet trigger. I can shoot that little 1911 better than anything else I own in it’s size. If she’s new I’d advise stripping her down scrubbing it clean, drying and then generously lube it with a quality gun oil (NOT a synthetic wonderlube). Burn a couple hundred rounds through it and see what you think. If it still doesn’t seem right I’d do (or have done) a trigger job. The big advantage 1911’s have is they can (and should) have great triggers.
 
My EMP (pre Ronin) has a sweet trigger. ... The big advantage 1911’s have is they can (and should) have great triggers.
Great. Thanks all. I thought it should have a great trigger so was a little disappointed. I bought a trigger gauge to see how it breaks in.

It came well lubed so I shot it as is. I've since cleaned it and used mil-comm tw25b grease using technique I saw in a Bill Wilson video. Haven't shot it yet.
 
What is a match grade trigger? I thought it was just marketing schtick?
Let me rephrase. Almost every 1911 you buy off a shelf could use a trip to a smith for some polishing and trigger work. The kind of stuff that doesn't get done to production guns in the under $1000 range. Try a Wilson Combat along side your Ronin and tell me if you notice the difference. I promise you there is one.
 
Great. Thanks all. I thought it should have a great trigger so was a little disappointed. I bought a trigger gauge to see how it breaks in.

It came well lubed so I shot it as is. I've since cleaned it and used mil-comm tw25b grease using technique I saw in a Bill Wilson video. Haven't shot it yet.
Initially most guns in the $1k or lower range with initially be rougher than they need to be, cleaning, polishing usually helps a lot. On old Smith revolvers they always spoke of the “1000 round trigger job”. Good luck with your new piece.
 
I didn't mean "drop in" part. I meant "reduction in" trigger pull weight.
I really don’t concentrate on trigger pull weight myself, as long as it’s smooth and kinda crisp, but of all the 1911’s I have now, my Colt Competition and Sig 1911 are tops, hate to say this but the Girsan I just picked up rates right up there, Kimber and SA are ok
 
Anyone ever do this to get 1/4-1/2 lb drop in trigger pull? Or know what it's doing internally?
most times, many parts on a 1911 needs to be "fitted" which in a way means "worked on" to make it fit.

but you need to be extra careful, too much "work" might ruin the gun.

i bought honing stones specific to the 1911 trigger, and sear...i'd like to get a sear jig, someday, but i ain't pushing that as a top priority.

next, if you'd like to work on your 1911, then i suggest buying a cheaper one, like a Tisas, or Girsan, or the Remington R1, maybe even a Dan Daley, i think they all are under the $500 price point at some gun stores.

practice just doing a full tear down and reassembly, many, many times.

watch video, "gun blue" that older gent is a very well accomplished armorer, and knows his stuff.

there are others as well.

then you can start buying "sear jigs" and "honing stones", and have at it, on the cheaper 1911's.

as it stands now, all my 1911's are above the $1,200 price point, and i ain't about to work on them.

i "might" buy another cheaper 1911, and try myself, since i already have some of the tools required.
 
“next, if you'd like to work on your 1911, then i suggest buying a cheaper one, like a Tisas, or Girsan, or the Remington R1, maybe even a Dan Daley, i think they all are under the $500 price point at some gun stores.”

Charles Daly sir, think his brother may be Dan……😬😬…….my Girsan commander was only $359.00
 
“next, if you'd like to work on your 1911, then i suggest buying a cheaper one, like a Tisas, or Girsan, or the Remington R1, maybe even a Dan Daley, i think they all are under the $500 price point at some gun stores.”

Charles Daly sir, think his brother may be Dan……😬😬…….my Girsan commander was only $359.00
i haven't gone to check on prices in a while, since i haven't had any desires to buy anymore guns, so i didn't know the price of that Grisan, which is pretty good.
 
i haven't gone to check on prices in a while, since i haven't had any desires to buy anymore guns, so i didn't know the price of that Grisan, which is pretty good.
When I got it, I was just going up and buy some ammo, but they had these on the counter for that price, I got it and forgot to get my ammo…..😵‍💫😵‍💫
 
if you'd like to work on your 1911, then i suggest buying a cheaper one,
watch video, "gun blue" that older gent is a very well accomplished armorer, and knows his stuff.
I have no desire to work on my gun. I've seen GunBlue do a trigger job on that Colt he has with the stones and all. But in the video I posted above, he manipulates the hammer and trigger in such a way that he claims lowers the pull weight 1/4 to 1/2 a pound. It's at 16:34 in the video I linked above.
 
I have no desire to work on my gun. I've seen GunBlue do a trigger job on that Colt he has with the stones and all. But in the video I posted above, he manipulates the hammer and trigger in such a way that he claims lowers the pull weight 1/4 to 1/2 a pound. It's at 16:34 in the video I linked above.
i believe he honed the sear, and adjusted the leaf spring, it is the same gun....and got that trigger pull lower....

 
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Right, in that video he disassembles it and does some honing. In the video I posted, he claims to have lowered it by putting pressure on the hammer while dry firing it (a couple of times) which is maybe accelerating the "break-in" between internal trigger parts. Not sure.

I got a Lyman analog trigger gauge and it says my trigger is 3.1 so that's in good shape. Other than the cheap Blazer aluminum ammo I used, the issue must be me. Go figure. :ROFLMAO:
 
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