40 years ago is older.
I’ll put my 1921 built K38 M&P that got a trip back to the mothership in ‘57 for refinish up against anything K with a model number…Only for trendy Tupperware. Revolvers are a mature , stable technology .
The split for " Modern " S&W is circa 1957 . Some collector minutae during of transitioning of improved heat treatment, and short actions in '55 - '57 , but if the Model Number is stamped in the Frame Window , it's Modern.
The other dividing point is circa 1927 , going for not , to heat treated cylinders.
If anything, the high point years for K Frames are late '70s to early '80s . ( Before MIM and frame mounted firing pins .)
I’ll put my 1921 built K38 M&P that got a trip back to the mothership in ‘57 for refinish up against anything K with a model number…
What gets me today with most S&W revolvers are the way they do the rifling now days, both my 610 and 625JM don’t have conventional rifling, they have the new EDM style, which almost looks like Glock bores, mine shoot fine, just like the older style better
Yep; confirmed through the Standard Catalog.And I'd 90% agree with you .
Not to nit pick, but the specific " K-38 " ( and the K-22 , and K-32 family) Model Name was introduced in 1947 .
Pre War , the M&P were available with Target Sights as option , so that's plausible also .
Yes, the old Long Actions are better triggers (but slower lock time ) than the subsequent Short Action , and I prefer them . But parts for them have dried up from the major independent parts sellers , so you would possibly be searching for parts donor guns , if you needed parts
The only other potential thing to look out for , is 1921 is non heat treated cylinders. You'll be fine with standard pressure loads , but be sparing with +P .
I'd have to double check SCSW , but iirc , my M&P .32-20 outdated that by a few years .
A few years younger , but my first duty gun was a 1942 Victory ( Not Government issued , probably a DSC gun .)
Have you confirmed or documented your Born On ? If you post or PM your s/n with last couple numbers X'ed out , l can get back with your year of production in a cpl days
Meanwhile- S&W officially approves all K Frame with Model number stamped ,.for use with +P .
My first wheelgun was a Taurus 606, .357 mag, bobbed hammer, 6-shot snubby. I was a noob to guns. All I knew was that my brand new, freshly issued Smith 5906 was having major extraction/ejection problems. Both rangemasters said the Smith would settle down. They also encouraged BUGs and swore by snubbies. Add into the mix that Lon's Drug was getting rid of their gun sales and was clearencing out my brushed nickel finish wheelie and there you have it.There is something about a wheel gun
Practical - Simplicity - great for the professional and the civilian
I come to this site to learn.
QUESTIONS:
For the J FRAME FANs:
For the LCR FANS
For the TAURUS FANS
1) why did you chose your revolver-?
2) how to you EDC-?
3) what would you or not change change-?
4) your next revolver purchase-?
THIS IS SUPPOSE TO BE A POSITIVE THREAD:
For this Old Dawg
1) Because I was brought up a Snubby and it is a CQC tool - I could only afford a Taurus 605 357 Poly
2) it is my always firearm - cross draw OWB or IWB - when it was my BUG, pocket strong side.
3) change the trigger - not change the reliability factor
4) LCRx in either 38 or 22LR
How about you-?
Thank you