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What have you bought firearms related in the last 48 hours?

I forgot to mention, the recoil spring assembly. This gets wiped down with a clean, DRY rag. Do NOT oil it. Springs, including mag springs, do not need oil. It just attracts dirt. If you feel the need to actually clean them with something just make sure you wipe all of that stuff off it when you're done.
 
Hi,

I just ordered 1000 rounds of Prvi Partizan 9mm 124 grain from SGAmmo. I've never tried it but it seems a lot of people like it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Hey Cliff, I have had good luck with PP .30-06 specific-load for the M1-Garand....apples and oranges for sure, but the PP is one of the only brands with Garand-specific loads I can find the last few years (occasionally I find Federal, but it's been rare).
 
Striker fired guns generally only need one drop of oil in about 5 places. They are designed to run pretty dry unlike a 1911 or an AR-15. Your user manual will tell you exactly where and how much lube/oil to use.

My general method with strikers is to break the gun down, run a brush through the barrel, then run a patch soaked with bore solvent through it and let it sit while you clean the rest of the gun. Then use your cleaner of choice ( CLP, Hoppes, Nitro solvent, etc.) and apply a conservative amount to the slide, being careful not to get ANY solvent or oil into the striker channel. Then take a soft bristled brush and scrub it. Then take clean rags ( I use cotton t-shirts or whatever cut into approximately 2"x 2" squares) and wipe all the solvent off the slide. You will want to use Q-tips or cotton swabs of some sort to get into the crevices on the rails and other tight areas. Just try not to get anything into the striker channel. Once it's clean and dry set it aside and grab the frame. Lightly spray a little oil or CLP on a rag or sometimes I'll just use a clean dry rag and wipe down everything you can get to, again using Q tips in hard to reach places. If it has carbon on it, you want to wipe it off. It generally comes off the frame pretty easily. Run a clean rag through the magwell, wipe down the metal components on the rear of the frame. Once it's clean and dry there are a couple spots that get a drop of oil. Your manual will tell you exactly where, but there will be two places on each side of the frame that the slide rolls over. 2 in back and 2 up front. They'll look like little squares and can be metal or polymer depending on the gun. Each of those gets 1 drop of oil. Then looking into the metal mechanical/moving parts of the frame, manipulate the trigger and you will see a little arm that comes up and contacts another little metal piece. One drop of oil goes there. Then run patches down the barrel, one patch per pass, until they come out clean and dry. Then put a small amount of oil on a clean patch and run it down the barrel one time. Then a drop of oil on the hood of the barrel ( the part you can see through the top of the slide when the gun is assembled, which is where the slide moves across the barrel. That's it for lube. Then assemble the gun and cycle it to check function.


My apologies if you already know this or if my explanation seemed a little "Dumbed down" for lack of a better term, but I don't know how familiar you are with the nomenclature or cleaning the gun so I thought I would explain it where anyone could understand it. My main point is that after cleaning your gun it should be clean and DRY. Then only apply a drop of oil on those few spots. This is a general instruction and you should definitely consult your operators manual for actual instructions.
Thank you-I needed that, step by step really helps. I will have to plan a day to get to the range & shoot and the next day to clean, need to look up and read about what & where the Stryker is, Doc U Tube, Old gals Can be taught, I really am grateful for all the time & effort you share. Blessings
 
Striker fired guns generally only need one drop of oil in about 5 places. They are designed to run pretty dry unlike a 1911 or an AR-15. Your user manual will tell you exactly where and how much lube/oil to use.

My general method with strikers is to break the gun down, run a brush through the barrel, then run a patch soaked with bore solvent through it and let it sit while you clean the rest of the gun. Then use your cleaner of choice ( CLP, Hoppes, Nitro solvent, etc.) and apply a conservative amount to the slide, being careful not to get ANY solvent or oil into the striker channel. Then take a soft bristled brush and scrub it. Then take clean rags ( I use cotton t-shirts or whatever cut into approximately 2"x 2" squares) and wipe all the solvent off the slide. You will want to use Q-tips or cotton swabs of some sort to get into the crevices on the rails and other tight areas. Just try not to get anything into the striker channel. Once it's clean and dry set it aside and grab the frame. Lightly spray a little oil or CLP on a rag or sometimes I'll just use a clean dry rag and wipe down everything you can get to, again using Q tips in hard to reach places. If it has carbon on it, you want to wipe it off. It generally comes off the frame pretty easily. Run a clean rag through the magwell, wipe down the metal components on the rear of the frame. Once it's clean and dry there are a couple spots that get a drop of oil. Your manual will tell you exactly where, but there will be two places on each side of the frame that the slide rolls over. 2 in back and 2 up front. They'll look like little squares and can be metal or polymer depending on the gun. Each of those gets 1 drop of oil. Then looking into the metal mechanical/moving parts of the frame, manipulate the trigger and you will see a little arm that comes up and contacts another little metal piece. One drop of oil goes there. Then run patches down the barrel, one patch per pass, until they come out clean and dry. Then put a small amount of oil on a clean patch and run it down the barrel one time. Then a drop of oil on the hood of the barrel ( the part you can see through the top of the slide when the gun is assembled, which is where the slide moves across the barrel. That's it for lube. Then assemble the gun and cycle it to check function.


My apologies if you already know this or if my explanation seemed a little "Dumbed down" for lack of a better term, but I don't know how familiar you are with the nomenclature or cleaning the gun so I thought I would explain it where anyone could understand it. My main point is that after cleaning your gun it should be clean and DRY. Then only apply a drop of oil on those few spots. This is a general instruction and you should definitely consult your operators manual for actual instructions.
That was great, I needed that. Will read manual and get px. of Stryker from Doc Google-u Tube. That was a lot of effort and I'm grateful. Having fun can take effort. I try to have the target 3-4 feet away where an encounter is likely to happen but get a few rounds down range. I seem to be shooting UP-not straight being small & sitting. How do the "fur kids" react to gun sounds? The tables are at a good height for me but sure wish I could practice draw & shoot-I practice unloaded draw at home but hands & elbows say "Enough". Thanks for your effort sharing.
 

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Thank you-I needed that, step by step really helps. I will have to plan a day to get to the range & shoot and the next day to clean, need to look up and read about what & where the Stryker is, Doc U Tube, Old gals Can be taught, I really am grateful for all the time & effort you share. Blessings
When you take the slide off the gun turn it upside down so you’re looking at the rails as opposed to the (top) part of the slide that’s visible when the gun is assembled. At the very rear of the slide you will see a square hole with a little spring inside. That’s the striker channel.
 
I have a pair of AXIL eat muffs. Not sure if they are TrackR. They are Bluetooth but I don’t use them for that. When I’m shooting, I’m shooting No distractions. I really like them. I’m thinking about trying the in-ear ones, but I wouldn’t be allowed to use them at my indoor range.
I'm sure I'll get lots of boos, but I had a pair of ITE (in-the-ear) buds that had a claimed 28dB noise reduction. First, they cost me $140. Second, shooting pistols was painfully loud with them....shooting my 5.56, 7.62x39, .308, .30-06 was not pleasant to say the least. Had to use them WITH muffs, in or outdoors. Third, the replaceable earbud inserts (it came with 4-5 sizes both rubber and foam) would get stuck in my ear canal after 4-5 hours (long sessions), and it took me 20 minutes on the drive home to dig the ear bud out of my ear canal with a small screwdriver (I was thinking I might need to go to the ER for extraction, but I was successful). I am now 100% ****-centric (yes, I made up a word). No ear buds for me ever again. Yes, buds are great for not getting in the way of shouldering a rifle, but they have drawbacks.

Not familiar with a range not allowing ear-bud ear pro though....
 
I'm sure I'll get lots of boos, but I had a pair of ITE (in-the-ear) buds that had a claimed 28dB noise reduction. First, they cost me $140. Second, shooting pistols was painfully loud with them....shooting my 5.56, 7.62x39, .308, .30-06 was not pleasant to say the least. Had to use them WITH muffs, in or outdoors. Third, the replaceable earbud inserts (it came with 4-5 sizes both rubber and foam) would get stuck in my ear canal after 4-5 hours (long sessions), and it took me 20 minutes on the drive home to dig the ear bud out of my ear canal with a small screwdriver (I was thinking I might need to go to the ER for extraction, but I was successful). I am now 100% ****-centric (yes, I made up a word). No ear buds for me ever again. Yes, buds are great for not getting in the way of shouldering a rifle, but they have drawbacks.

Not familiar with a range not allowing ear-bud ear pro though....
Thank you so much for your feedback. I have ear buds with noise cancellation and they work very well, but I have a hard time believing that the ones they sell for shooting would be as good as they claim. I’m beginning to think that it would be better to just stick with the muffs made to protect my hearing, rather than mess around with the techie crap with all their promises. I’m at the range to shoot, not to listen to music or answer my phone.
I think the reason why they don’t want people using those in this particular range is that they want to make sure that people are using the correct PPE. They monitor the range lanes by video.
 
I'm sure I'll get lots of boos, but I had a pair of ITE (in-the-ear) buds that had a claimed 28dB noise reduction. First, they cost me $140. Second, shooting pistols was painfully loud with them....shooting my 5.56, 7.62x39, .308, .30-06 was not pleasant to say the least. Had to use them WITH muffs, in or outdoors. Third, the replaceable earbud inserts (it came with 4-5 sizes both rubber and foam) would get stuck in my ear canal after 4-5 hours (long sessions), and it took me 20 minutes on the drive home to dig the ear bud out of my ear canal with a small screwdriver (I was thinking I might need to go to the ER for extraction, but I was successful). I am now 100% ****-centric (yes, I made up a word). No ear buds for me ever again. Yes, buds are great for not getting in the way of shouldering a rifle, but they have drawbacks.

Not familiar with a range not allowing ear-bud ear pro though....
Oh Come-on mods....did I need to specify "ear" with that edited post? Pfft....:)ROFLMAO:)
 
Hi,

I just purchased 700 rounds of 230 grain .45ACP (with 5% discount) at LAX Ammo for less than 36¢ per round, delivered to my door. ;) (Note: The "code" is "LAXSUMMER5" just in case you were wondering. ;)

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Can you believe I haven't been to the range yet this month but I've bought 1700 rounds of ammo in the last two days? I gotta go BANG! soon. :ROFLMAO:


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
more xp springs for the 10mm 4" from carver along with a comp for the 40 to 357sig barrel change in the 4.25" that'll be here hopefully next week?

might get an extended and ported 40 for it or just get a threaded barrel as will require a different comp if going that route? the xp springs should help tame the recoil.
 
Yep, i had a big order up with them a couple weeks ago and they were going to charge me nearly 30 bucks shipping when everyone else is free shipping for less than the order i had with them. i cancelled it and ordered elsewhere.
Ironically their “ free shipping an ammo” sale ends tonight. It’s always with a catch though. It has to be specific ammo they set aside, or it has to be over $99 or something.

In any case @rcurtner is better off going with Top Gun for the HST. Regular price on 50 rd. Box is around $30 for .45 and I think 9 is a buck cheaper. Free shipping over $200 and a flat rate of $12.50 for all orders under $200.
 
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